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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Apr 10 2009
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    41003
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    01 A4 1.8T
    Location
    Guelph, On

    first time doing timing belt

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    Hey everyone,

    i recently picked up an AWM a4, and its nearing 170,000km. P/O hasn't given me much information so on the basis of that Im assuming its long over due for a timing belt job, plus i can hear the tensioner squeaking, going to be ordering a TB + waterpump kit from ECS on monday and hope to get cracking on it next week. Take it easy on me, im popping my auto repair cherry on this one

    I plan on following this DIY write up: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng35.shtml

    im feeling rather confident with the mechanical aspect of replacing the belt and pump but have a few questions.

    - is there any bolts that should have anti-seize applied in this job?
    - are there any specific odd tools that would be required?
    - do I have to do anything specific when re-assembling the A/C condensor? or just hook it back up and plug the sensor in?

    any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated

    TIA

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 15 2009
    AZ Member #
    50748
    Location
    Derry NH

    What does the condenser have to do with a T belt? Are you talking about the compressor?

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings somebody5788's Avatar
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    Aug 13 2008
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    31904
    Location
    Indiana

    You don not need to remove your AC condensor, compressor, or unhook ANYTHING from it. You have to put the car into service position by removing the the bolts behind the bumper shocks. Once you have done that you can either go with a bit more work and pull the front end to the side out of the way as some do or I prefer to just work with the 3-4" of space it gives you when you just slide one of the bumper cover bolts into the holes and slide the core support out onto them.
    -Nic

    2007 Nissan Titan - Hard wired Escort 8500 X50 | "Rigid" LED pod lights
    2006 Honda 919 - Dual Yoshimura slip on exhaust | Homelink | RAM X-Grip mount with charger
    1997 BMW 328is - Stock. Completely Stock...
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  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 10 2009
    AZ Member #
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    My Garage
    01 A4 1.8T
    Location
    Guelph, On

    ahh gotcha, I just assumed it needed to be disconected, thats why i asked about it...thanks for clearing that up, i dont really know why i assumed it needed to be disconnected.
    Last edited by big-L; 03-19-2010 at 04:59 PM.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
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    Feb 24 2004
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    858
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    Minneapolis

    What ^^he^^ said. You just pull the front out and slide it forward.

    As for special tools, you need the timing belt tool. You will not get your timing dead on without one. With the tool, it's very hard to get the timing wrong. Here's one at ECS.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings somebody5788's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtroxel View Post
    What ^^he^^ said. You just pull the front out and slide it forward.

    As for special tools, you need the timing belt tool. You will not get your timing dead on without one. With the tool, it's very hard to get the timing wrong. Here's one at ECS.
    I've NEVER used the tool. It's damn easy to do with out it. I dont need the tool on the 1.8t, 2.8, or 2.7t.

    Besides I believe he's got a 1.8t and the tool you linked is for the 2.8.
    -Nic

    2007 Nissan Titan - Hard wired Escort 8500 X50 | "Rigid" LED pod lights
    2006 Honda 919 - Dual Yoshimura slip on exhaust | Homelink | RAM X-Grip mount with charger
    1997 BMW 328is - Stock. Completely Stock...
    1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee - OD Green | Rough Country Long arms | Rubicon Express 4.5" springs | Bilstein 5100's

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
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    Feb 24 2004
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    The key to that job on the V6 is pulling the sprockets loose so that when you tense up the belt, the tension is even all over. Then you bolt them down on the cams. You will always be a little off if you don't do that.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings eurotecknik's Avatar
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    Feb 23 2008
    AZ Member #
    25650
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    06 A4, 09 A5
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    Chicago Бъл

    First, you do not need any timing belt locking tool as mentioned above seing that you are 1.8T
    -As far as anti-seize, you don't have to apply any anywhere or at least I don't know.
    -Only thing you need to apply is loctite on the tentioner roller nut because you don't want that to come out byitself.

    good luck. I am sure you will have no problem and may actually enjoy doing the TB. Just allow yourself enought time.
    01 A4 1.8T Quattro Manual - SOLD
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  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Apr 10 2009
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    01 A4 1.8T
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    Guelph, On

    Quote Originally Posted by eurotecknik View Post
    First, you do not need any timing belt locking tool as mentioned above seing that you are 1.8T
    -As far as anti-seize, you don't have to apply any anywhere or at least I don't know.
    -Only thing you need to apply is loctite on the tentioner roller nut because you don't want that to come out byitself.

    good luck. I am sure you will have no problem and may actually enjoy doing the TB. Just allow yourself enought time.
    yeah i know i dont need a cam tool, i think mtroxel thinks this is the s4 section...what i meant more by special tools was odd sizes of wrenches, but im pretty sure i have everything i need.

    what colour loctite should i use? blue or red?

    and thanks, im really looking forward to doing the TB, should be interesting.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
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    Feb 24 2004
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    Minneapolis

    Quote Originally Posted by big-L View Post
    yei think mtroxel thinks this is the s4 section...
    Yea sorry guys, I knew it was an A4 but mine's a V6 so that's what I think of.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings suju82's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 02 2007
    AZ Member #
    18499
    My Garage
    1999.5 a4 1.8tq k04+giac, tt dv, bosch 4 bar fpr, DP back 2.5" magnaflow, k&n drop-in.
    Location
    Toronto, Canada

    Send me a pm and i'll come give you a hand if you want. I'm in mississauga, on. I did my tb job a couple years ago on my driveway too. Mine's an aeb motor. Let me know. The only special tool i can think of is a twelve point 19mm socket and breaker bar to turn the crank. I had to borrow the socket from a friend as you really do need a twelve point. As for the locktite you need the blue one.
    Last edited by suju82; 03-20-2010 at 09:17 AM.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings somebody5788's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtroxel View Post
    The key to that job on the V6 is pulling the sprockets loose so that when you tense up the belt, the tension is even all over. Then you bolt them down on the cams. You will always be a little off if you don't do that.
    I know this. But I have done the job with out it and then made the tool to check it and all of it was 100% in spec after finishing w/o the tool. Tool is not necessary as long as you keep things where they go....

    Think of it like this. If you are buying a quality timing belt then the car was timed to the exact length the belt was made. It's not hard to eyeball the sprockets as they just have to be flat. If your not sure then you can use a long straight object: pry bar, yard stick, anything like that to check all of the alignment. The tool is fail safe but it's not needed.

    I made one for 7 bux though. I have a DIY HERE

    And I always turn the engine over 2-3 times by hand after releasing the tensioner to make sure its all still correct.
    Last edited by somebody5788; 03-20-2010 at 02:12 PM.
    -Nic

    2007 Nissan Titan - Hard wired Escort 8500 X50 | "Rigid" LED pod lights
    2006 Honda 919 - Dual Yoshimura slip on exhaust | Homelink | RAM X-Grip mount with charger
    1997 BMW 328is - Stock. Completely Stock...
    1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee - OD Green | Rough Country Long arms | Rubicon Express 4.5" springs | Bilstein 5100's

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
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    Feb 24 2004
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    Minneapolis

    Quote Originally Posted by somebody5788 View Post
    Think of it like this. If you are buying a quality timing belt then the car was timed to the exact length the belt was made. It's not hard to eyeball the sprockets as they just have to be flat. If your not sure then you can use a long straight object: pry bar, yard stick, anything like that to check all of the alignment. The tool is fail safe but it's not needed.
    I would put a qualifier on that. If you have a 96-97 B5 with a V6 (AFC), you set the timing belt tension yourself. If your idea of proper tension is a little different than the last guy who did it, then as soon as you start the engine the two cam sprockets will move just slightly to make up the tension difference. If your V6 is later than 97 then you have that automatic tensioner thing and the tension will likely be the same as it was before. No need for the tool.


    Quote Originally Posted by somebody5788 View Post
    I made one for 7 bux though. I have a DIY HERE
    I read your DIY. I'd thought of that but never done it. Is that for the 5v engine? I think I'll make that next time I do my AHA timing belt.


    Quote Originally Posted by somebody5788 View Post
    And I always turn the engine over 2-3 times by hand after releasing the tensioner to make sure its all still correct.

    Ditto. I just go one revolution...............just because it really matters.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings suju82's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 02 2007
    AZ Member #
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    My Garage
    1999.5 a4 1.8tq k04+giac, tt dv, bosch 4 bar fpr, DP back 2.5" magnaflow, k&n drop-in.
    Location
    Toronto, Canada

    Have you done this yet? How did it go? If you haven't let me know if you need a hand when you plan to do it.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Apr 10 2009
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    01 A4 1.8T
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    Quote Originally Posted by suju82 View Post
    Have you done this yet? How did it go? If you haven't let me know if you need a hand when you plan to do it.

    no not yet, waiting on the kit from ECS to come in

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