Door open but says its closed?

[NW A4]

My back passenger door seems to be not connected. When open, lights do not come on and it doesn't show up in my cluster that it is open. But yet it locks properly. Does anyone know what could be causing this at all?

Thanks!

Edit (4/19:

So I still havent gotten this fixed. I scanned it with Vag-com and says:

01562 - Right rear door,
59-00 - Can't Unlock

[ivoryman50]

The switch that checks to see if the door is open (forgot the name) is going or already gone. Mine does that too right now. One way to test it is to have the door open and try to lock your car. If it locks like normal, then that sensor is your issue.

[FoRbAnNa]

It's either a faulty wire between the door and the chassis in the rubber hose thing or most likely the microswitch in the door lock is broken. I had the exact same problem with my front driverside door: door locks normally but the DIS never shows if the door is open and the light in the door doesn't work aswell. I had to replace my door lock which has this microswitch that detects if the door is closed or not, these microswitches goes bad someday down the road so this is not a unusual problem..

[scoTT la rock]

yeah its probably just the door sensor.

you could have the opposite problem where the door is always seen as "open" by the car, which is what i had in my TT.

[mr_esmit]

It's either a faulty wire between the door and the chassis in the rubber hose thing or most likely the microswitch in the door lock is broken. I had the exact same problem with my front driverside door: door locks normally but the DIS never shows if the door is open and the light in the door doesn't work aswell. I had to replace my door lock which has this microswitch that detects if the door is closed or not, these microswitches goes bad someday down the road so this is not a unusual problem..

How much did you buy the door lock for or could you just repair the microswitch (i think some peopla call it a pin switch or something).

[FoRbAnNa]

How much did you buy the door lock for or could you just repair the microswitch (i think some peopla call it a pin switch or something).

My car had this fault when I bought it and I wasn't so much into repairing that myself at that time so I had the dealer do it. Was about $400-450 in 2008 for the lock and the job. Front driverside lock is about $206 on ECS and rear passengerside lock is $199. Don't think it's called a pin switch on the B6 and newer since there is no pin switch in the door frame like in old cars. I don't think its easy to fix the microswitch but I guess you could try if you don't want to spend $199 on a new lock.

[NW A4]

Sorry to start this thread again.

So I still havent gotten this fixed. I scanned it with Vag-com and says:

01562 - Right rear door,
59-00 - Can't Unlock

[NetLogic]

Did you check the wires going into the door? Here is what mine looked going into my drivers door.

Thread here http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...say&highlight=

[Lusticles]

im having the same issue with the same door. i dont mind really as im never in the rear of my car, but one time i did lock the car and walk away without closing that door

[vtraudt]

2001 Audi Allroad. Same (rear passenger (right) door not UN locking).
I need to fix this issue, since the door lock/unlock signal may be causing the suspension level control to stay 'awake' and not going to 'sleep', causing my excessive (330mA) draw on that circuit (already ruined a good battery!).

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I thought I'd bump this thread as it seems to best mirror the issues I'm currently having. It's the left-rear door that seems to be the source of the problem. The challenge is that the symptoms are not consistent. I've seen all of these at different times...

1) Center console light does not come on when door is opened
2) Center console light stays on despite door being closed, engine running (or not) and no indication of being open on instrument cluster
3) Door ajar light on instrument cluster stays on despite door being closed
4) Door doesn't lock

Any thoughts?

[itsmatt33]

I thought I'd bump this thread as it seems to best mirror the issues I'm currently having. It's the left-rear door that seems to be the source of the problem. The challenge is that the symptoms are not consistent. I've seen all of these at different times...

1) Center console light does not come on when door is opened
2) Center console light stays on despite door being closed, engine running (or not) and no indication of being open on instrument cluster
3) Door ajar light on instrument cluster stays on despite door being closed
4) Door doesn't lock

Any thoughts?

sounds like your door hinge harness.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

sounds like your door hinge harness.

Thanks. Reading some other threads now, it looks like I'm in for a fun exploration.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

In case I don't get to this before going away for a couple days (and wanting to be able to lock all 4 doors), is there a way to lock the back-left door and just leave it locked for now. I'm thinking once I get it locked, just disconnect the harness connector. I could either physically lock it or externally power the locking circuit. Not sure what might be easier.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

sounds like your door hinge harness.

You were correct. Pulled the door harness tonight and I found that the large brown wire (Gnd, I presume) was completely severed. The break was about at the spot where the wire bundle turns inside the door, so it was not obvious right away. I never would have found it unless I removed the harness from the car. It seems to be the only wire that is damaged, so I'll just repair it.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Fixed this yesterday and everything is working as it should now. I just used a butt connector to repair the broken wire and then wrapped the bundle of wires together for strength. The other thing I did was removed the tape that was fixing the wiring to the rubber grommet in the door. Because of this, the wires were always getting severely bent every time the door is closed. The way I have it now, the bound-together wires can slide back and fourth a little each time the door is closed. I should probably proactively check the other doors - at least the driver.

One other related thing.... We all know that Phillips head sheet metal screw that goes in at an upward angle from underneath the arm rest is annoying, both to remove and to re-install. I found that a #8 x 1" hex-head screw is a little easier to deal with. The 1/4" nut driver holds the screw better when installing and makes for a more positive grip when removing. Ace hardware sells them individually for pocket change.