Upper shock mount stripped?

[AutoUnion1]

Started getting a clunk in my steering last week. Digging through it today I found the rear upper shock mount bolt on the driver side was completely stripped actually the threads of the bolt are perfect but the bolt simply pulled straight out with no twisting. What are my options? Is it even possible to tap this out? Drive it, don't drive it?

[blmlozz]

driving on it is going to cause the other two bolts to chafe unless they're secured properly, and even then it's going to move a little bit. The upper mount should be interchangeable with A4 models (and I have a junk car A4) . It's an aluminum mount, so tapping it would be *possible* but because it's at an angle and the level lip is relatively small anyway, it would be difficult. If you want to send me your old mount I can trade you.

[mholme]

Yup, I would replace the whole thing from a junkyard A4.

[AutoUnion1]

Are all the threads built into the shock mount or are there threads in the body as well?

[MacDaddy]

replacing it is the right thing to do, but i would just get a longer bolt and put a nut on the end of it with washers on either side to hold it tight to the body again.

[mholme]

Are all the threads built into the shock mount or are there threads in the body as well?

If I recall, the aluminum mount is the only part that is threaded. If you pull the bolt out, you can see if this is the case.

[blmlozz]

If I recall, the aluminum mount is the only part that is threaded. If you pull the bolt out, you can see if this is the case.

the mount is the only part that is threaded, which is why it's easy to strip since it's made from aluminum and the bolt is grade 8 steel.

[AutoUnion1]

Thanks for the help everyone. What's a good time estimate to replace a shock mount? I'd normally tackle this myself but I just scored some more consulting so I'm going to hand this one off to the local guy.

[mholme]

If you unbolt those three bolts, the whole housing will come down. Just unbolt the control arms and replace with new mount. Use a floor jack to raise/lower the housing. You may also need to unhook the tie rod, but the whole thing shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours.

EDIT: You also need to remove the 13mm nuts that hold the shock assembly to the mount.

[infinkc]

Thanks for the help everyone. What's a good time estimate to replace a shock mount? I'd normally tackle this myself but I just scored some more consulting so I'm going to hand this one off to the local guy.

Easily in under an hour. The spring perch mounts to it, so it's just some unbolting. Lower strut bolt, upper control arms, shock mount.

[AutoUnion1]

driving on it is going to cause the other two bolts to chafe unless they're secured properly, and even then it's going to move a little bit. The upper mount should be interchangeable with A4 models (and I have a junk car A4) . It's an aluminum mount, so tapping it would be *possible* but because it's at an angle and the level lip is relatively small anyway, it would be difficult. If you want to send me your old mount I can trade you.

Sent you a PM

[Militant-Grunt]

I have the same issue on my car, over tightened one of the 16s =/. You just need to replace the shock tower hat and you're good. I'm just waiting until I put in new shocks. Until then I have a nasty crunch coming from that side..

[blmlozz]

I have the same issue on my car, over tightened one of the 16s =/. You just need to replace the shock tower hat and you're good. I'm just waiting until I put in new shocks. Until then I have a nasty crunch coming from that side..

just try not to wait too long, continued abuse can stress the strut bushing on the control arm and cause it to fail.