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  1. #1
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Replace Coolant tank & Coolant Flush 1.8T DIY (PICS)

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    My coolant was in need of a Change so I decided to do a whole flush (the easy way) & replace the tank since the other once was BROWN & disgusting! OK LETS START

    What You'll NEED: About 60-90 mins of work

    - (2) 1.5 Liters of Coolant make sure its from Audi G12 or G12+ (12.95 ea from EuropaParts)
    - Distilled water (2 Gal. $1 ea)
    - Coolant Tank (EuropaParts 19.95)
    - Two Clamps ( (1) 12-33mm (1) 5mm Clamp) About .50 ea.
    - Flat head and screwdriver
    - Large Bucket
    - Rag
    - container
    - Ramps
    - 6 PK of CORONA for the DOWN TIME



    Grab a spare Gallon around the House and empty the whole 1.5L of coolant you have into the gallon. uncap the gallon of Distilled water and fill the 1.5L of coolant bottle with water after that poor that into the Gallon with coolant in it so you have a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water. Now we take the work Outside

    Drive your car onto the ramp so you can have your car elevated for Later.

    First thing you have to do is take your screwdriver and unscrew the screw on top of the coolant to the lower left.
    Push the tank forward and pop the reservoir off the the back hinges.



    Now that you have a lot of play with the tank unplug the sensor under the tank.



    There are two hoses clamped on with One time clamps on the Tank. Take both of them off and one by one feed them into a container because there will be coolant flowing out of them. Remember theses are one time clamps so you wont be able to re-use them again. Pry a Flat head under the clamp and Pry it off, Do this carefully you don't want to puncture a hole into the Hose.



    Now that you have the old coolant tank off replace it with the New one by plugging the Hoses/sensor/screw back into place.


    Once everything is back in place start Heating up some water to a boil.



    Leave the cap off the Reservoir and go locate the Drain plug right by the alternator ITS ON THE DRIVER SIDE. There's a latch and a senor hooked onto a hose. Take off the Coolant Sensor Retaining Clip and take out the senor and watch the GUNK flow out of the Vehicle.



    Once it has stopped flowing into the bucket, plug back the sensor securely and fill the tank up with the water to MAX...Cap it and turn the car ON put them TEMP. to HIGH and fan on LOW. wait till Hot Air blows from the vents ....this may take a couple mins. so have a Corona in between.

    Once the vents are blowing Hot air stop Engine and DRAIN AGAIN. Do this about 4-5 Times until the water is DILUTED (CLEAR).

    Secure the Sensor and Coolant Sensor Retaining Clip back on the Hose and drop the car from the Ramps.

    After draining the vehicle for the fourth or fifth time there should be at least a Gallon of water still in the system take the 1.5L of coolant bottle that you didn't open and poor it into the reservoir, followed by the 50/50 mixture to MAX. You may not use all of it so save it for later. Turn the car on and repeat porcess witht he Heat let the car warm up and voila COOLANT FLUSH.....



    Make sure its not overheating and your good to go, drive it for a bit around the block park it let it run if it needs more coolant top it off as needed.



    Dispose of the GUNK (Coolant) Properly


  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings vintagespin's Avatar
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    awesome write up.
    2005 Dolphin Grey A4 1.8T Quattro 6-speed Sedan

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings NightRoller USP's Avatar
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    Pm a mod so we can get this stickied!!!!
    Jacob

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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings teg2audi's Avatar
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    damn your coolant tank was BROWN! Nice DIY, please sticky
    Black 04 Audi A4 1.8t
    APR Stage 2+, Koni FSD/Eibach, OEM USP Wheels

    Member # 15 of Coalition of The OEM+ Audi Owners.

  5. #5
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Thanx... looked bad and smelled bad

  6. #6
    Active Member One Ring
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    Thanks for the great write up. I have a question though. If we need to have a 50/50 coolant/water mix and there is at least one gallon of water left in the engine after you flashed the old coolant out, shouldn't we add at least two and a half bottles of 1.5L coolant to the water? 1 gallon is 3.78L.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings jonan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimk View Post
    Thanks for the great write up. I have a question though. If we need to have a 50/50 coolant/water mix and there is at least one gallon of water left in the engine after you flashed the old coolant out, shouldn't we add at least two and a half bottles of 1.5L coolant to the water? 1 gallon is 3.78L.
    i don't think there is exactly one gallon, but i used this method with much success...coolant held up for 2 east coast winters...
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings heywier427's Avatar
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    if this becomes a sticky, be sure to include the upper bleed valve, and how to purge the system of air. these cars can be fussy, most of the time!

    and just a question. did the original tanks come in that grey/green color? or was it white/clear, and turned over time.

    i think circle the lower rad. sensor as well, to help the people who are just learning.

    all in all, good write up.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings jonan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heywier427 View Post
    if this becomes a sticky, be sure to include the upper bleed valve, and how to purge the system of air. these cars can be fussy, most of the time!

    and just a question. did the original tanks come in that grey/green color? or was it white/clear, and turned over time.

    i think circle the lower rad. sensor as well, to help the people who are just learning.

    all in all, good write up.
    i think 2003 and below came with the fugly brown coolant tank...i cut my old one in half and it seems that was the color of it rather than build up...now my tank is nice, white and full of bubblegum juice...
    Want my guns??? ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!!!

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  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings KOTO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heywier427 View Post
    if this becomes a sticky, be sure to include the upper bleed valve, and how to purge the system of air. these cars can be fussy, most of the time!

    and just a question. did the original tanks come in that grey/green color? or was it white/clear, and turned over time.

    i think circle the lower rad. sensor as well, to help the people who are just learning.

    all in all, good write up.
    indeed i would liek to know how to purge the system of air and upper bleed valve. i have yet to do this still because i'm not 100% sure on it.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings jonan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAHAYEAH View Post
    indeed i would liek to know how to purge the system of air and upper bleed valve. i have yet to do this still because i'm not 100% sure on it.
    it's easy, there is an allen wrench bolt on the tube that connects to the upper radiator hose under the engine cover...turn the car on and rev the motor a bit until fluid is coming out of the hole rather than bubbles...fill up the tank to max and make sure a constant stream of fluid is flowing, bubbles indicate air is still in the system...tighten the bolt up when you no longer see bubbles...profit...
    Want my guns??? ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!!!

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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings heywier427's Avatar
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    ^ word.

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings unkn0wnmonkey's Avatar
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    Shweet! Doing mine now as i type. Took a few hours coz i'm having a drink, piss farting around and it's a 2.4L V6, but after some more searching, she's getting done.
    Thanks for the write up!
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings NuVega's Avatar
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    Sorry to bump an old topic, but if all I need to do is just replace the tank and not a full coolant flush as I just had a full flush not too long ago, do I just follow the first part of this process and thats it? I already have a 50/50 mix of G12+/distilled water ready to go.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings heywier427's Avatar
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    pinch off the 2 hoses with vice grips or the like, and hold the tank n hoses up higher than the upper coolant pipe to minimize spillage. the hardest/longest part is bleeding the system. this will help you avoid that.

    g/l.

  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Thanks, worked a treat.
    2004 Audi a4 B6 1.8TQ USP - 130k
    2016 - Coolant flange Failed.
    06/2012 - 09/2016 Faulty Engine Speed sensor
    2014 Coolant flange failed.
    01/13/2012 heater feed hose failed.
    12/27/2011 No start no CEL, changed fuel filter / pump
    10/01/2011 No start with codes for CKP, changed
    8/30/2011 Low oil pressure - deSludged engine, changed pcv valve, new oil pump etc

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings doogie891's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonan View Post
    it's easy, there is an allen wrench bolt on the tube that connects to the upper radiator hose under the engine cover...turn the car on and rev the motor a bit until fluid is coming out of the hole rather than bubbles...fill up the tank to max and make sure a constant stream of fluid is flowing, bubbles indicate air is still in the system...tighten the bolt up when you no longer see bubbles...profit...
    ONLY question i have that i have been searching for everywhere!!! does the reservoir cap need to be ON or OFF when purging the system??? that is the only thing i cannot figure out here.
    -Doogie


    REVO Stage 2/ 386cc Injectors/ RAI TP/ 710N DV/ Custom Exhaust/ Painted Lowers/ S4 Door Blades/ Joey Modded Headlights/ LED Tails/ 15% Window Tint/ Trunk Spoiler/Gloss Black Roof and Roof Spoiler/ Hitachi E Bolt Down Coils/ NGK Spark Plugs/ White Led's (Everything)/ Tein Springs/ VMR V710's 19x9.5 All 4 Corners ET 33/ 55W HID's Low Beam & Fogs/ Blacked out Upper & Lower Grille

    ^^^^ RIP!!!! ^^^^

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings n7plus1's Avatar
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    you forgot the last step of dumping the old coolant out onto the street.

  19. #19
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by n7plus1 View Post
    you forgot the last step of dumping the old coolant out onto the street.
    Lol, I still have those sitting in my garage, going to use it in my dodge !! lol
    2004 Audi a4 B6 1.8TQ USP - 130k
    2016 - Coolant flange Failed.
    06/2012 - 09/2016 Faulty Engine Speed sensor
    2014 Coolant flange failed.
    01/13/2012 heater feed hose failed.
    12/27/2011 No start no CEL, changed fuel filter / pump
    10/01/2011 No start with codes for CKP, changed
    8/30/2011 Low oil pressure - deSludged engine, changed pcv valve, new oil pump etc

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings doogie891's Avatar
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    does the reservoir cap need to be ON or OFF when purging the system??? that is the only thing i cannot figure out here....
    -Doogie


    REVO Stage 2/ 386cc Injectors/ RAI TP/ 710N DV/ Custom Exhaust/ Painted Lowers/ S4 Door Blades/ Joey Modded Headlights/ LED Tails/ 15% Window Tint/ Trunk Spoiler/Gloss Black Roof and Roof Spoiler/ Hitachi E Bolt Down Coils/ NGK Spark Plugs/ White Led's (Everything)/ Tein Springs/ VMR V710's 19x9.5 All 4 Corners ET 33/ 55W HID's Low Beam & Fogs/ Blacked out Upper & Lower Grille

    ^^^^ RIP!!!! ^^^^

  21. #21
    Active Member Two Rings
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    I did mine with it on.

    Drain, refill, cap back on, run engine to temp, feel it circulate (air from vent warms), turn off car, drain, refill, cap back on... I would have a couple of extra jugs of distilled water to hand as mine took quite a few cycles to get clear. Also I found it a royal pain to get the radiator hoses off the heater pipes in the firewall, so for venting, I just used a pick tool (from harbor frieght) and instead of removing the hose, just pulled up on it to create the space for the air to vent out, followed by coolant when its done. This worked a dream.
    Last edited by Carlfxy; 03-12-2012 at 02:47 PM.
    2004 Audi a4 B6 1.8TQ USP - 130k
    2016 - Coolant flange Failed.
    06/2012 - 09/2016 Faulty Engine Speed sensor
    2014 Coolant flange failed.
    01/13/2012 heater feed hose failed.
    12/27/2011 No start no CEL, changed fuel filter / pump
    10/01/2011 No start with codes for CKP, changed
    8/30/2011 Low oil pressure - deSludged engine, changed pcv valve, new oil pump etc

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings boy412's Avatar
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    How would this procedure be any different if you had oil in your coolant? In order to get all of that contaminated coolant out of the entire system you'd need to use something during the flushing process to get the oil out of all the nooks and crannies. Right?

    This is of course AFTER you find out why you have oil in your coolant in the first place .
    ~Eric
    SOLD: '03 Ming Blue A4 Avant 1.8TQM | GTRS | MTM cat/exhaust | Maestro | Spec Stage III+ | Vogtlant GT's | JHM trio | STE PPD | OEM+

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlfxy View Post
    I just used a pick tool (from harbor frieght) and instead of removing the hose, just pulled up on it to create the space for the air to vent out, followed by coolant when its done. This worked a dream.
    Brilliant! My right angle pick would work perfectly for that. Thanks for the tip.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
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  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Ugh. I have some oil in my coolant, topped off with thick waxy sludge in my reservoir cap. Not wanting to mess with the mess of it all, I asked my local mechanic what they charge.... $750 for a new cooler and coolant flushes.

    For that much scratch, I'll burn a Saturday and do it myself for $100.

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