$20 paypal'd to someone who can tell me how to wire oldfoglights to facelift switches

[x2nervisx]

I'll paypal the first person to give me detailed instructions on how wire my old foglight connectors to the facelift style switches. I already have the pigtails for the new switches and the foglight control module. I see some of the wires from the old connector match the new wires but how do I wire in the foglight module!!!! My car is sitting there till this gets done!!! I've already completed the hvac controls and hazards switch.

[audifirst]

I can sent you PDF files with wiring diagrams for new fog light switches

[BlkBullitt]

Did some digging in some old threads. Hopefully this will help...

Facelift Fog Light Control Module Pin Out:

Pin 1 - +12V pulse toggles front fogs
Pin 2 - +12V line to rear fog
Pin 3 - +12V pulse toggles read fog
Pin 5 - +12V line to front fogs
Pin 6 - Appears to be ground
Pin 7 - Appears to be ground
Pin 8 - +12V switched with the ignition
Pin 9 - +12V switched with the ignition
Pin 10 - Panel indicator light for front fogs
Pin 11 - Panel indicator light for rear fog
Pin 12 - Holding at +12V PREVENTS the front fogs from turning on (used to cut out front fogs when high beams are on)
Pin 14 - +12V switched with the ignition
Pin 15 - Holding at +12V ALLOWS the rear fog to turn on (used to cut out rear fog when high beams are on)
Pin 17 - Holding at +12V ALLOWS front / rear fogs to turn on (used to prevent fogs from turning out with out the low beams


Wiring Diagram for Facelift Fog Lights:



If you could send me pics of the harness, switches, and anything else you have I might be able to help more.

[x2nervisx]

Does the PDF tell me which wire goes where?

I've seen those pics of the relay and the pinouts before on the older hvac conversion thread but that diagram still confuses me. Am I supposed to wire the new switch to the relay module and then have wires going from there to the old foglight harness?

[walky_talky20]

Here is how I would do it.

Notes:
- The red squares indicate splices you need to make...basically.
- I tried to keep the wire colors close for readability, but for some aren't perfect (for ex: green instead of gray/green). The jpeg compression mushes some of the colors anyhow.
- You will need a facelift fog lamp control module.
- If there's room, it is probably best to hide this in the dash behind the fog buttons or behind the radio location. That way you don't have to run wires all over the car.
- You will need a constant power source (75x or 15 circuit - ignition power) You should probably run your own fused wire from the terminals under the dash. Tapping on to the radio power may work, too. It is up to you.
- You will need a ground for the fog module. You may be able to get away with tapping onto one of the switch's grounds, but it's own chassis ground is probably best. Again, your choice.
- The power for the fog lamps will be supplied by the fog module, so make sure the power input (pin 8, 14) and power output (pin 5) are nice, heavy wires - no speaker wire.
- On a pre-facelift car, the fogs are still dependent on the fog light relay. To get full independent operation, you will want to "jump" this relay (replace this relay with a heavy jumper wire between the source and load pins). This is not necessary for operation, but is probably desirable.
- Let me know if you have any questions
- YGPM
- Other 'Ziners or electrical guru's: Please feel free to point out any flaws on my diagram. I'll be happy to make edits. It should be clear, I have *not* done this to my car, I have a facelift car. This is what I have come up with after studying the facelift and pre-facelift head lamp and fog lamp diagrams.




EDIT (7/31/2015):

After several requests, I have drawn up the diagram for the European A4 fog module as well. It has less pins and is simpler to connect (none of the nanny features that we have on the USA modules).



More info on the Euro Fog Module > prefacelift integration here:
http://www.audiaddict.net/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=2114

Many thanks to AZ member down_n_dapper for his diagram request, his kind words and for his efforts testing out this scheme to confirm good operation. Cheers, mate!

[x2nervisx]

Here is how I would do it.

Notes:
- The red squares indicate splices you need to make...basically.
- I tried to keep the wire colors close for readability, but for some aren't perfect (for ex: green instead of gray/green). The jpeg compression mushes some of the colors anyhow.
- You will need a facelift fog lamp control module.
- If there's room, it is probably best to hide this in the dash behind the fog buttons or behind the radio location. That way you don't have to run wires all over the car.
- You will need a constant power source (75x or 15 circuit - ignition power) You should probably run your own fused wire from the terminals under the dash. Tapping on to the radio power may work, too. It is up to you.
- You will need a ground for the fog module. You may be able to get away with tapping onto one of the switch's grounds, but it's own chassis ground is probably best. Again, your choice.
- The power for the fog lamps will be supplied by the fog module, so make sure the power input (pin 8, 14) and power output (pin 5) are nice, heavy wires - no speaker wire.
- On a pre-facelift car, the fogs are still dependent on the fog light relay. To get full independent operation, you will want to "jump" this relay (replace this relay with a heavy jumper wire between the source and load pins). This is not necessary for operation, but is probably desirable.
- Let me know if you have any questions
- YGPM
- Other 'Ziners or electrical guru's: Please feel free to point out any flaws on my diagram. I'll be happy to make edits. It should be clear, I have *not* done this to my car, I have a facelift car. This is what I have come up with after studying the facelift and pre-facelift head lamp and fog lamp diagrams.

That's what exactly I needed. Hopefully everything is correct. I'll be trying this out in the next few days when I have some free time. If anyone can double check to see if this is correct, that would be appreciated. EXCELLENT WORK!!! Helps not only me, but everyone else interested in doing the facelift center console conversion!

[SantorinRocks]

Bleh, facelift. Oldskool switches forever, baby!

[walky_talky20]

That's what exactly I needed. Hopefully everything is correct. I'll be trying this out in the next few days when I have some free time. If anyone can double check to see if this is correct, that would be appreciated. EXCELLENT WORK!!! Helps not only me, but everyone else interested in doing the facelift center console conversion!

Hope it works for you. MS Paint FTW!

[x2nervisx]

Just looking things over and do pins 8, 9, 14, 15, and 17 are all going to splice together to post 75x under the knee bolster? Should i just run 1 large gauge wire from the 75x post and then splice the rest of the wires onto that wire?

[x2nervisx]

??

[Ldiaz12]

Wait cant you Just Splice the Wire and Tap in to The old Fog light wire? Do you guys get me? Shouldnt it work just like having the in Headlight fogs?

[x2nervisx]

Wait cant you Just Splice the Wire and Tap in to The old Fog light wire? Do you guys get me? Shouldnt it work just like having the in Headlight fogs?

nope.. new fog light switches sends a pulse to the fog light module which contain the relays to tell it to turn the fog lights on. The older style switches are more like an on/off switch and have the relays built in. That's why the wiring is completely different.

[walky_talky20]

nope.. new fog light switches sends a pulse to the fog light module which contain the relays to tell it to turn the fog lights on. The older style switches are more like an on/off switch and have the relays built in. That's why the wiring is completely different.

Correct-o-mundo. In so doing, Audi has actually *removed* a feature in going to the facelift buttons: The fog lamps no longer *remember* their state. You have to push the button every drive cycle that you want the fogs. On pre-facelift cars, the switches would "latch", so they would stay on for the next time. This may be a feature to save the life of the fog lamps. It depends on how you look at it.

Just looking things over and do pins 8, 9, 14, 15, and 17 are all going to splice together to post 75x under the knee bolster? Should i just run 1 large gauge wire from the 75x post and then splice the rest of the wires onto that wire?

Yep, just make sure you put a fuse on it, close to the 75x terminal. I'd start with a 15 amp fuse.

The only problem I would foresee using the 75x circuit (hot in run) instead of the 15 circuit (hot in run and start) would be the "during crank" situation. The 75x post loses power during cranking, so if you have the Key On, Engine Off and turn the fogs on - as soon as you crank the engine they will surely turn off during the cranking because the module loses power. The "gotcha" is that they may not come back on. Because all of the power inputs are lost during cranking, the fog module won't *remember* what state the fog lamps were in. It will *forget* and go to the default state which is off.

Other than the above (rather rare) situation, I don't think using the 75x for all power inputs should be a problem.

[x2nervisx]

So for the best "factory style" application, I should go with the 15 circuit? And just to clarify, is this fuse 15? If not, where do I find the 15 circuit? Thanks again for the help.

[x2nervisx]

I also noticed in your diagram that the OLD fog light switch connector has an unused thick gauge Grey/Green wire. Wouldn't this make a good power source instead of the 75x post or 15 circuit (where ever that is)? I'm assuming this wire was powering the foglights with the old switch right?

[LowSantorin]

Bleh, facelift. Oldskool switches forever, baby!

x2! plus we don't have to push it back in to turn the fogs on every time we drive!

[x2nervisx]

Did everything today... and everything works perfectly!!!! Only thing I did different is instead of wiring the + to the 75x post, I just used the grey/green wire from the old front foglight connector since that provided power to the old foglights. AWESOME!!

[97B518TQM]

Did everything today... and everything works perfectly!!!! Only thing I did different is instead of wiring the + to the 75x post, I just used the grey/green wire from the old front foglight connector since that provided power to the old foglights. AWESOME!!

So who gets the $20 now?? :)

[x2nervisx]

Money was paypal'd To walkie_talkie20 for taking the time to draw up the diagram that I used to finish this project.

[walky_talky20]

Sorry, I've been a little busy lately. I'll try to address all the questions:

So for the best "factory style" application, I should go with the 15 circuit? And just to clarify, is this fuse 15? If not, where do I find the 15 circuit? Thanks again for the help.

I would say for the best "oem plus" style. Using the 75x will work, minus the very minor "bug" I talked about, which will only happen if you start the car after turning on the fogs - which is unlikely. The 15 circuit would take care of that, and everything else would be the same. No, 15 is the code name for the "hot in run and start" circuit. Many of the fuses in the fusebox represent this circuit. Unfortunately, there is no easy terminal like there is for the 75x - you would have to tap a fuse to get it.

I also noticed in your diagram that the OLD fog light switch connector has an unused thick gauge Grey/Green wire. Wouldn't this make a good power source instead of the 75x post or 15 circuit (where ever that is)? I'm assuming this wire was powering the foglights with the old switch right?

Yes, this will work, however it is more "factory style" than "oem plus" style. By using the grey/green wire the fogs will only work when the head lamps are on (factory style). If you want independent operation (ie: independent fog mod) for that "oem plus" touch you will need an *independent* power source. You'll need to go to the fuse box or the 75x terminal to get it.

Did everything today... and everything works perfectly!!!! Only thing I did different is instead of wiring the + to the 75x post, I just used the grey/green wire from the old front foglight connector since that provided power to the old foglights. AWESOME!!

That's excellent. Good work, and I'm glad it all worked out for you. Just for clarity: You have completely factory fog lamp operation, right? The fogs only work with the low beams on, and cancel with the high beams, yes?

In your case, to upgrade to independent fogs you will need to do the following:
- Supply the Fog lamp module with a constant ignition power source: 75x or 15 circuit
- Remove the old (pre-facelift) fog lamp relay and replace it with a jumper on the source and load side (bypass the relay).

Both modifications must be done. Doing one or the other will (surprisingly) not change the operation. This will give fully independent operation. Fogs can be on as long as the key is on, and will not cancel with high beams. The high beam cancel can be added, if desired, by supplying the fog module with the high beam signal on pin #12.

[x2nervisx]

Well I tried them out last night and the fog lights still stay on after putting on my high beams. However they do not "remember" to stay on when the car is off. Actually they don't remember to stay on when turning off the headlights and turning them back on. I have to manually push the button for my foglights to turn on everytime I put the head lights on. I'm assuming they "remember" in everyone else's car?

[walky_talky20]

The high-beam cancel is a function of one of 2 things: either the high beam signal to the fog module (which you did not hook up), or the fog lamp relay. Unless you bypassed the relay like I described before, it will still perform these 2 functions: fogs only with low beams, and high-beam fog lamp cancel.

As for fog lamp "memory": no, facelift cars do not have any memory. You have to push the fog lamp button each time. This is a "feature" that was added with the facelift fog lamp system. Currently you are using the headlamp switch for a power source, so the fog module will absolutely reset every time you turn the head lamps off. You may be able to change this memory behavior slightly by using a constant ignition power source (75x or 15) instead. It should "remember" the fog lamp state as long as the key stays on, regardless of the head lamp switch. It will still [unavoidably] reset each time the key is turned off. I hope that made sense.

[99blueb5]

so i did everything above and it all works but i cannot get the front fogs to turn on unless the low beams are on( like factory) the rear fogs will turn on no matter what, the indicator light comes on like it should and 12v is getting sent out to the 12v fog line... any ideas?

[walky_talky20]

What did you do about the fog lamp relay? Not the module, the relay. As described above, it must be bypassed to give the fog module full control.

[99blueb5]

What did you do about the fog lamp relay? Not the module, the relay. As described above, it must be bypassed to give the fog module full control.

im trying to figure out how to do that, im pretty sure i found the fog light relay but when i try to over-ride it nothing make it independent

[99blueb5]

any ideas?

[walky_talky20]

99blueB5, a few questions:

- Do you get the expected independent operation from the fog module output (pin 5 for the front fogs)?
- Where does pin 5 (module) connect to? (I'm guessing Pin 6, white/yellow, of the old front fog switch connector. Just want to be clear)
- What action, exactly, did you perform at the fog lamp relay? (which pins, etc)

[99blueb5]

99blueB5, a few questions:

- Do you get the expected independent operation from the fog module output (pin 5 for the front fogs)?
- Where does pin 5 (module) connect to? (I'm guessing Pin 6, white/yellow, of the old front fog switch connector. Just want to be clear)
- What action, exactly, did you perform at the fog lamp relay? (which pins, etc)

i do have independent operation
yes it does connect to pin 6
i tried to jump the 2 bigger pins of the relay and didnt get anything

[walky_talky20]

Are you sure you have the correct relay? You should have:

- 1 pin with front fog output of fog module (via pin 6 of old front fog switch connector)
- 1 pin with 12v whenever low beams are on (stays hot with high beams on)
- 1 pin with 12v whenever high beams on (only)
- 1 pin with fog lamp load (out to fog lamps)

As a test, it ought to click whenever switching between high and low beams.

I don't know it's exact position, but it should be in the 13-way relay carrier above the micro-central-electric. I would guess position 7 (lower level, far left), but I can't verify at the moment.

[cus]

hi there, where abouts is the fog lamp control module located in the prefacelift and facelift cars?
i have modified the connector, but need to get the module out of the car..

thanks

[walky_talky20]

Prefacelift doesn't have a module. Facelift module is located behind the glovebox area AFAIK.

[cus]

thanks a lot for the info, think i'll do this at the weekend :D
great guide btw

[Poopie]

the secret is taking apart the button and not playing with the wiring at all.

[b5a4gt28]

So if I want it to be just like factory with the fogs off with the high beams on do I connect pin 12 to the 75x power? It says 12 volts to enable this feature. Can I get away with not doing anything with it?

[walky_talky20]

If you leave it disconnected (pin 12 connected to nothing), the fogs will be independent of the High Beams. If you want the "high-beam cancel" feature, you connect pin 12 to the high beam signal.

[b5a4gt28]

Thanks for the clarification Walky.

[walky_talky20]

No problem. That will be $20.


I kid, kid...

But, seriously.

[LeighE]

A bit of a thread revival as im about to do this mod to my prefacelift. Can someone tell me the foglight module part number and how many pins in total does it have?
thanks ..lee

[walky_talky20]

I can get you the part number (8D0-907-701B), but it may be a little simpler or cheaper to use something aftermarket. If you already have the module, it works with a little wiring, but something aftermarket would be a little cleaner.

I'm thinking a generic latching relay, something like this:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...atch_relay.pdf

[LeighE]

I can get you the part number, but it may be a little simpler or cheaper to use something aftermarket. If you already have the module, it works with a little wiring, but something aftermarket would be a little cleaner.

I'm thinking a generic latching relay, something like this:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...atch_relay.pdf

Ideally i'd like to use the original module/relay and wire it in as per your wiring diagram so if you could get the part number it would be much appreciated