$20 paypal'd to someone who can tell me how to wire oldfoglights to facelift switches

[walky_talky20]

Certainly. I updated my above post to include the number.

15 bucks on ebay, not too bad:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RELAY-vw-aud...-/280540433104

[LeighE]

Certainly. I updated my above post to include the number.

15 bucks on ebay, not too bad:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RELAY-vw-aud...-/280540433104

excellent, thanks very much. I just hope the us version is the same as my uk version
lee

[LeighE]

it seems the uk version doesnt have as many pinouts as the us version if the ebay link below is anything to go by :( Any advice?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=220897044016

[walky_talky20]

My bad, mate. The European market module is "8D0-907-701A". What is the difference? I haven't the foggiest. << lol. See what I did there?

If you can get me an accurate European spec wiring diagram, I'd be happy to help you out. Unfortunately I do not have access to such a beast.

[LeighE]

My bad, mate. The European market module is "8D0-907-701A". What is the difference? I haven't the foggiest. << lol. See what I did there?

If you can get me an accurate European spec wiring diagram, I'd be happy to help you out. Unfortunately I do not have access to such a beast.

I will see if i can find a wiring diagram/module pinout and get back to you. Your help would be much appreciated
thanks ..lee

[melomandn]

Here is how I would do it.

Notes:
- The red squares indicate splices you need to make...basically.
- I tried to keep the wire colors close for readability, but for some aren't perfect (for ex: green instead of gray/green). The jpeg compression mushes some of the colors anyhow.
- You will need a facelift fog lamp control module.
- If there's room, it is probably best to hide this in the dash behind the fog buttons or behind the radio location. That way you don't have to run wires all over the car.
- You will need a constant power source (75x or 15 circuit - ignition power) You should probably run your own fused wire from the terminals under the dash. Tapping on to the radio power may work, too. It is up to you.
- You will need a ground for the fog module. You may be able to get away with tapping onto one of the switch's grounds, but it's own chassis ground is probably best. Again, your choice.
- The power for the fog lamps will be supplied by the fog module, so make sure the power input (pin 8, 14) and power output (pin 5) are nice, heavy wires - no speaker wire.
- On a pre-facelift car, the fogs are still dependent on the fog light relay. To get full independent operation, you will want to "jump" this relay (replace this relay with a heavy jumper wire between the source and load pins). This is not necessary for operation, but is probably desirable.
- Let me know if you have any questions
- YGPM
- Other 'Ziners or electrical guru's: Please feel free to point out any flaws on my diagram. I'll be happy to make edits. It should be clear, I have *not* done this to my car, I have a facelift car. This is what I have come up with after studying the facelift and pre-facelift head lamp and fog lamp diagrams.

Helping my brother do this and just want to make sure I understand this correctly.

For the constant power source, will 12 gauge wire be big enough or should I go with something larger?
And I'm a little confused on the independent fogs.

"- On a pre-facelift car, the fogs are still dependent on the fog light relay. To get full independent operation, you will want to "jump" this relay (replace this relay with a heavy jumper wire between the source and load pins). This is not necessary for operation, but is probably desirable."

Do I modify the module the same way it is done on a facelift car? If not, what relay is it that I have to jump?

[walky_talky20]

The relay you would be interested in jumping is the fog lamp relay which lives behind the driver's knee bolster. There shouldn't be any modifications needed to the fog lamp module your are adding, so long as you wire it correctly.

After some more research, I've decided using an aftermarket "flip flop relay" or "sequencing relay" would be a cleaner solution, although using the OEM fog module would probably be cheaper, especially if you wanted to make both front and rear fogs work via the facelift buttons. This thread goes over some of those aftermarket options:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ft-mod-done%29

[melomandn]

The relay you would be interested in jumping is the fog lamp relay which lives behind the driver's knee bolster. There shouldn't be any modifications needed to the fog lamp module your are adding, so long as you wire it correctly.

After some more research, I've decided using an aftermarket "flip flop relay" or "sequencing relay" would be a cleaner solution, although using the OEM fog module would probably be cheaper, especially if you wanted to make both front and rear fogs work via the facelift buttons. This thread goes over some of those aftermarket options:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ft-mod-done%29

Perfect.

And do you think 12 gauge will be big enough for the constant power source?

[walky_talky20]

Yep. 12 gauge is good.

Not sure what you mean by constant power. My diagram shows using the 75x or 15 circuit. It would be beneficial to find which pin on the fog module actually draws the bulb current and connect that to fused constant power. Pulling all of that current through the 75x or 15 circuit will put that load on the Load Reduction Relay or Ignition Switch respectively - which are already high failure rate items. Without inspecting/testing the module itself, I'm not certain which pin that is. To be safe, you could use your own relay triggered by the 15 circuit to supply all 12v+ connections to the module.

Perhaps I'm just over-cautious, but I'm always very careful to avoid adding extra load to existing circuits that weren't meant for it. In this case we aren't so much adding a new load, but we are changing the path where the fog lamps draw power from, so we need to be equally cautious.

This would be different if these were Camry's and everything was over-built, with nice main fuses, and ignition switches and relays that never fail. But these are Audi's, and it is my opinion that much of the electrical system is already under-spec'd and overloaded from the factory.

[melomandn]

Yep. 12 gauge is good.

Not sure what you mean by constant power. My diagram shows using the 75x or 15 circuit. It would be beneficial to find which pin on the fog module actually draws the bulb current and connect that to fused constant power. Pulling all of that current through the 75x or 15 circuit will put that load on the Load Reduction Relay or Ignition Switch respectively - which are already high failure rate items. Without inspecting/testing the module itself, I'm not certain which pin that is. To be safe, you could use your own relay triggered by the 15 circuit to supply all 12v+ connections to the module.

Perhaps I'm just over-cautious, but I'm always very careful to avoid adding extra load to existing circuits that weren't meant for it. In this case we aren't so much adding a new load, but we are changing the path where the fog lamps draw power from, so we need to be equally cautious.

This would be different if these were Camry's and everything was over-built, with nice main fuses, and ignition switches and relays that never fail. But these are Audi's, and it is my opinion that much of the electrical system is already under-spec'd and overloaded from the factory.

Hmm I'll figure something out.
And I was just refererring to the way you put it in your post

"- You will need a constant power source (75x or 15 circuit - ignition power) You should probably run your own fused wire from the terminals under the dash. Tapping on to the radio power may work, too. It is up to you."

But thanks again walky, always a life saver

[walky_talky20]

Oh, that's my bad. I shouldn't have used the word constant for that. And tapping off the radio power? How could I have been so careless?!

[melomandn]

Got it all up and running, thanks again Walky!

Heres what it looks like for anyone who's interested:

[MooseWhip]

That relay looks like Medusa lol

[crazexr7]

So walky's diagram gives you independent fogs without the headlights being on? Has anyone got it to work?

[walky_talky20]

^Only if you want it that way. You can make it behave however you want. Whatever you can dream up can be done.

[melomandn]

^Only if you want it that way. You can make it behave however you want. Whatever you can dream up can be done.

hahaha

[walky_talky20]

Is that funny?

I actually wasn't trying to be funny that time.

[Cactus Avant]

So walky's diagram gives you independent fogs without the headlights being on? Has anyone got it to work?

I used the diagram walky made, and I don't have the independent fogs. It works as a stock car would. But I do have a question, my fogs are super bright. Brighter than my low beams. Does anyone know why? I believe I used 12 gauge wiring for the power. And yes, I have an inline fuse on that too.

[BlackLock_A4]

What bulbs are you running in your fogs and low beams?

[Cactus Avant]

What bulbs are you running in your fogs and low beams?

The stock bulbs. Which are H7's correct? I have even taken my low beam bulbs and swapped them with my foglight bulbs, and the foglights are always brighter.

This is the best I can capture it with my phone. (Both fogs are just as bright, its just the angle I took this at):

[myAudi4life]

Hi Guys

I decided to change a console on my 1998 Audi A4 Quattro (1.9 TDI) and found that the European spec fog light module doesnt have a lot of pins compared to the US one. Can someone please help me with this, see diagram below

[IMG][/IMG]


and my fog light unit

[IMG][/IMG]


Any help is greatly appreciated
Thank you

[walky_talky20]

Hi Guys

I decided to change a console on my 1998 Audi A4 Quattro (1.9 TDI) and found that the European spec fog light module doesnt have a lot of pins compared to the US one. Can someone please help me with this, see diagram below

[IMG][/IMG]

Any help is greatly appreciated
Thank you

Those 2 wires are just the indicators for the fog lamps being on. You can just connect those to the front and rear fog lamp outputs respectively. (Pin 5 is output for front fogs, Pin 2 for the rear fog).

Why it is different:
In the US our fogs have to cancel with high beams. If our indicators just connected to the fog lamp bulbs, we would be unable to see that the fogs were ON during high-beam state. For that reason, the module has to provide another output for the indicator light that stays ON even during high beams. In Europe, there is no auto-cancelling requirement so connecting the indicators in parallel with the fog lamps themselves is sufficient and several pennies per car is saved.

[myAudi4life]

Hey walky_talky20

Thats great thanks for your quick reply I will try later on this week

Regards

[myAudi4life]

All working now thanks Walky_talky

just to add, on the European spec fog lamp module pin # 4 needs to have +12v

Finished product :D sorry for the quality as i took it after dark

[IMG][/IMG]

[jacobaudi]

I'm trying to do this conversion and I will like to know that if I will have to purchase a facelift module? Also what should I do with the preface lift module of relay system?

[walky_talky20]

No.

After some more research, I've decided using an aftermarket "flip flop relay" or "sequencing relay" would be a cleaner solution, although using the OEM fog module would probably be cheaper, especially if you wanted to make both front and rear fogs work via the facelift buttons. This thread goes over some of those aftermarket options:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ft-mod-done%29

And this:

On a pre-facelift car, the fogs are still dependent on the fog light relay. To get full independent operation, you will want to "jump" this relay (replace this relay with a heavy jumper wire between the source and load pins). This is not necessary for operation, but is probably desirable.

[jacobaudi]

I'm trying to open the link but it seems to be not working

[walky_talky20]

Fixed it.

[jacobaudi]

Thanks's @walky_talky20

[rockbeau25]

Sorry to bump an old thread with what is probably a really dumb question. Just want to confirm pn 8DO 907 701 B is the correct module for this job. The only PN I see elsewhere in this thread is the one ending in A but I can't imagine they're very different. Don't need to get fancy with independent fogs or anything just want to get it wired up and working.

[walky_talky20]

I remember this thread. Good Times.

Either module will work just fine. The "B" module is the USA version. The "A" module is the European version with a few less pins (less "safety" features to bypass). Diagrams for both are on the first page of the thread. If you have any issues, feel free to ask.

[rockbeau25]

Thanks Walky, more than likely will be sending you some PMs as wiring is not my forte.

[emocupcakes]

Hey walky, looking for some guidance.

2002 B5 S4 (US-SPEC)
* has facelift update

GOAL:
* Use front fog lights as my Daytime Running Lights. (requirement in Canada)


Saw some tutorials about using the 75x relay terminal and running a wire with an inline fuse to one of the wires going to the back of the fog light switch, but the details were sparse.

[emocupcakes]

https://imgur.com/Bc3Ir9N

[walky_talky20]

Hooking it up that way (75x wired into the facelift fog switch) will not work. There is no wire there that you can hold power onto that will energize the fog lamps. There is just some little power wires for the switch lights and backlighting, and the pulse wire that signals the module to do fog light things. Injecting constant power to any of that will not have any effect.

If you want to run the fogs all the time, my suggestion would be to remove the fog module, then put a jumper wire between pin 8 (Gray/Green wire) and pin 5 (White/Green wire). That will provide fused power from 75x directly to the fog light bulbs via a 15A fuse. Alternatively you could use a fused jumper from pin 14 (Yellow/Black). That is getting power from the ignition switch Run-only output, which is not fused. I'm not sure where the bulb power is pulled in the factory configuration, but it is one of those 2. If the Gray/Green wire is just a tiny signal wire and the Yellow/Black one is the heavy supply wire, you obviously want to use that. You are powering the entire current of both fog bulbs here.

Jumpering as described above is the easy way to do this and there is no modification of factory wiring, but you will lose rear fog lamp function. If you need to retain rear fog lamp control, you'll have to do the above jumpering, but do it within the harness so you can leave the module in place.

[OliMan]

A few years later...
A message to thank you all for the support, especially walky_talky20 with the European module wiring diagram.
I recently bought a prefacelift sedan S4 B5 with non-working foglights... I didn't notice the center console was a facelift one until I checked the wiring behind it and found a mess.....
Hopefully you guys were here and I could modify my wiring and added the European module 8D0907701A (I'm from France!).
Everything is working now, the only problem I still have is that both front and rear fogs stop working after ~ 1 minute.
Don't really know why.. will investigate. Maybe my battery was too low when I tried and the ECU stopped the fogs to avoid a deep battery discharge.
Cheers,
Olivier

[walky_talky20]

There are no computers related to exterior lighting on the B5 (a good thing, in my opinion). The only fancy thing is the Fog Relay itself. It is designed to reset fogs to "off" each time the key shuts off. So I would check that the normal 'ignition switch" input of the fog relay is indeed staying hot and not disappearing for some reason. The 1 minute timer is very interesting and I'm not sure where that time delay would even come from.

[OliMan]

Ok, I’ll monitor the ignition switch input wire with my multimeter. Thanks!

[bajo_01]

@walky_talky20 I have read in this topic that the fog relay is on passenger side,in glovebox do I need to remove glovebox from donor car to see it?

Послато са SM-G960F помоћу Тапатока

[walky_talky20]

I've never removed one myself. My assumption is flip the glovebox down might be good enough.