DIY Halogen to Bixenon- Conversion Complete.

[choppstixxx]

For anyone that has converted a B8.5 (2013+), is there a list of CECM that do not work with the conversion to enable high beams?
If my CECM is not compatible, will it still allow me to use low beams/LED's/DRL's? Just wanna get my ducks in a row and buy everything once. I honestly don't care if my high beams are not working, as long as everything else works/error free.
Also I saw a few other adapters on eBay coming from Germany that arn't Kufatec, will those be OK to use?
This thread is a gold mine of info, thanks to everyone who contributed.

[Reciprocity]

pretty sure every CECM is compatible with low beams, however DRL compatibility is difficult. Kufatec harnesses are wired incorrectly so stay away from them.

[Reciprocity]

I have a B8.5 so the wiring might be different. B8's have no problems with Kufatecs from what I've read. DRL option is enabled but the wiring is completely wrong, only my low beams and indicators work for now. I'm waiting on repin tools to properly configure the adapter, even my high beams will work without a CECM swap

[choppstixxx]

I have a B8.5 so the wiring might be different. B8's have no problems with Kufatecs from what I've read. DRL option is enabled but the wiring is completely wrong, only my low beams and indicators work for now. I'm waiting on repin tools to properly configure the adapter, even my high beams will work without a CECM swap

Hmmm, from most of the B8.5 conversions I have seen some conflicting comments. Some people have a bunch of issues, some don't have any besides the high beams obviously.
So you are essentially going to re-pin the connector that goes into the old halogen side? Lemme know how you make out.

[Reciprocity]

Hmmm, from most of the B8.5 conversions I have seen some conflicting comments. Some people have a bunch of issues, some don't have any besides the high beams obviously.
So you are essentially going to re-pin the connector that goes into the old halogen side? Lemme know how you make out.

Yes I will attempt to repin the harness properly. Before coding, flashing my high beams turned on the DRL's, which corresponds to the incorrect wiring diagram I posted on the previous page. I'm guessing that connecting the headlight high beam wire to the stock halogen high beam wire will make them work, no silly CECM swaps or repinning black/red connectors will be necessary.

[choppstixxx]

Yes I will attempt to repin the harness properly. Before coding, flashing my high beams turned on the DRL's, which corresponds to the incorrect wiring diagram I posted on the previous page. I'm guessing that connecting the headlight high beam wire to the stock halogen high beam wire will make them work, no silly CECM swaps or repinning black/red connectors will be necessary.

If it works, that'd be awesome. Lemme know man, it def. makes sense since we are using a conversion cable originally meant for B8's

[Reciprocity]

If it works, that'd be awesome. Lemme know man, it def. makes sense since we are using a conversion cable originally meant for B8's

Austinreed21 came to the rescue with the proper pinout for b8.5's! Turns out my assumption was incorrect and a simple pin swap will solve all our problem except for high beams.


EDIT: Do you have a vag-com cable already?

[choppstixxx]

Austinreed21 came to the rescue with the proper pinout for b8.5's! Turns out my assumption was incorrect and a simple pin swap will solve all our problem except for high beams.


EDIT: Do you have a vag-com cable already?

Sounds great! Can you explain further what he is talking about? Isn't the brown and red connectors ones that go into the CECM? And for the last part he is talking about the kufatec adapter, pretty much swapping pins 10 and 4? I'm going to buy a Ross-Tech tonight.


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[Reciprocity]

Sounds great! Can you explain further what he is talking about? Isn't the brown and red connectors ones that go into the CECM? And for the last part he is talking about the kufatec adapter, pretty much swapping pins 10 and 4? I'm going to buy a Ross-Tech tonight.


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Yes, 2 pins that go to the CECM need to be swapped to different locations. This is in addition to the 2 wires that are needed for high beams, which I will not be installing.

for the second part yes, just a "simple" swap of pins too. You will need a special removal tool to do this for the Kufatec adapter, although I will be cutting and splicing the cables instead.

and for the cable use a Chinese knockoff.....don't waste 600 bucks!

[choppstixxx]

Gonna buy this pin terminal tool to remove the stock pins safely, click here

[Reciprocity]

Those tools I heard are flimsy and won't reach that far to remove our recessed connectors. Cutting and splicing is much faster and easier for me :)

[choppstixxx]

Those tools I heard are flimsy and won't reach that far to remove our recessed connectors. Cutting and splicing is much faster and easier for me :)

Dang, maybe I'll have to buy the tools that look more like a small screw driver then.

[Reciprocity]

Those screwdrivers are ridiculously overpriced, like 50 bucks each, not worth it IMO

Dang, maybe I'll have to buy the tools that look more like a small screw driver then.

[choppstixxx]

Been talking with Reciprocity a lot lately, just piecing together the swap for my B8.5

So far I have:
-OEM headlight assemblies
-Ross-Tech Cable

On the way:
-OEM LED + HID ballasts
-conversion harness

Have to buy:
-HID bulbs

Gotten some really good deals on a lot of the equipment, should keep this whole project under $800. Hopefully the pin/wire swap that was posted by Recip should solve our DRL issues.

[Reciprocity]

Update: LED DRL's worked in the off, auto and lights on position, but do not turn on when the knob is on parking light. After swapping out the CECM pins, the DRL never lit up, so I reverted to the original CECM wiring.

[choppstixxx]

So with the help of Reciprocity and this thread I have been chugging along with my retrofit on my B8.5
Only one snafu so far with swapping the pins on the conversion harnesses, due to my own fault. Ordering a new plastic housing for $10 and solving that. I will note that if you own a B8.5 and are swapping the #4 and #10 pin (which solves a lot of issues w/our years), get a longer pin harness tool so you can release the clips properly. But be careful not to push it too far down, which will result in breaking the plastic housing (what I did). In reality we need a tweezer like tool that is tall enough to insert on both top/bottom of the pin, then it will just slide out.

Anyways, I also ran into another issue when mounting up my ballasts. Bought OEM Audi HID/LED ballasts and with the bottom of the LED ballast, be aware if yours looks like this:


You will have to Dremel/cut off one of the pegs (forget which one), since the mounting area on the housing has a raised piece of plastic that will prevent the ballast from sitting flush.
Below is the correct ballast bottom that won't need to be adjusted:

[Steff86]

Nicely done!


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[choppstixxx]

So with finishing up the retrofit on my B8.5, got around to installing the ballasts and bulbs. I found the perfect screw/washer combo to forgo the OEM torx bolts for the ballasts. Go to Home Depot and buy the Everbuilt Pan Head Phillips #6x1/2" Stainless Sheet Metal Screws and the Everbuilt #6 Stainless Flat Washers. Fit perfect only will cost you $3 for all the screws you need.
Should have had my retro done today, but the OEM Phillips DS3 bulbs I bought were defective, the male plug on the bulb' end pins were all jacked up. Will just have to wait another week til I get replacements.

[choppstixxx]

Getting close to finishing up my retrofit, installed all the new Xenon hardware and coded my lights. Low beams and turn signals work fine. My issue right now is my LED DRL's won't light up at all, just get the error on my dash saying the DRL's are out. Talking with Reciprocity, I believe the CECM pin swap should fix the issue, will be doing that eventually to see if that's the issue. Only other thing I can think of is that my LED ballast's arn't compatible for some reason? Since I had the issue with the little nub on the bottom.

[choppstixxx]

Anyone that has done the conversion on a B8.5 ever figure out there DRL not turning on issue?
I have the error message on my info screen sayings both the Left/Right DRL's are out. I have "DRL" turned "ON" in my MMI.
I did the pin switch (#4/#10) on my wiring harnesses that are applicable to the B8.5's, but have yet to do the pin switch on my CECM red/tan connectors. I have coded my #9 module for both the HID's/LED's in VCDS, just want to make sure this isn't a simple coding issue or if by moving the pins in the CECM will solve it.

*Update*
Pretty sure I know why my DRL's arn't working, ordered the wrong LED ballasts. Gonna swap them out for the correct part and go from there.

[choppstixxx]

Quick question, does anyone know if the following LED ballast' are all interchangeable?

4G0.907.697.J
4G0.907.697.D
4G0.907.697.H

I bought the "H" part #, but I am wondering if that is causing the issues with my DRL's not working. Since the J/D models are what usually come on A4/S4 models.

[Audi 4 Life]

pretty sure every CECM is compatible with low beams, however DRL compatibility is difficult. Kufatec harnesses are wired incorrectly so stay away from them.

where did you hear kufatec harnesses are wired incorrectly?
I wonder if this is why my high beams won't work no matter what coding I enter?

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[helldriver]

Yeah I don't know whats going on with mine, started out with a defective drivers side headlight( DRL wasn't working, and the highbeam flap wasn't opening all the way), the car showed me that with a fault notice, replaced the unit and that problems fixed, now the passenger side high beam flap is stuck open, and the DRL (passenger side)while the headlights are on doesn't work, but both DRL's work perfectly with headlights off, going to try a better quality set of lamps and see what happens or look at the programming again when I get time.

[Reciprocity]

they're only wired incorrectly for B8.5's, B8's are fine.

[Jrac743]

Yeah I had to replace the led ballast on my headlight. I used one that came from an r8 and it worked perfectly


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[helldriver]

Can I find euro Bi- xenon headlights any where else besides ECS tuning?!!, Got creamed in the drivers side front last week at work, did about $4200 in damage, sucks that was the good working headlight too, and they are on backorder at ECS, I have another another new one but the DRL's don't work right and flap in the projector does work.

[prkieffer]

What year I have bi xenon 09-12 for sale


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[wilongo]

Coding for Bi-Xenon Retrofit

After completing the retrofit, it is essential that you change the coding listed below.
Without the coding, the xenon bulbs will turn on with a red flash. I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure that is not good for the bulbs. They will flicker/turn off. In addition, the LEDs will not work.
Basically, the coding is essential - do not think you can avoid changing the coding. Make sure you have access to a VAG-Com at the time of the retrofit or you will be left with non-functioning lights!



[09 – Cent. Elect.]
[Coding - 07] -> Long Coding Helper

Byte 0: From 69 → 26 = change from halogen to xenon bulbs
Byte 2: From 00 → 10 = enable LED DRL
Byte 14: From 7F → 1D = bi-xenon high-beams
Byte 15: From 5F → 0D = bi-xenon high-beams

.....
I switched for Euro specs, and the side marker keep popping in the dash... How I get rid off???.. I turned it off on the coating but if I do so my DRL doesn't work!!! Help

[A4x]

I have a set of bi-xenon headlights that are for sale. I have not yet posted in the classifieds but will soon. You will need bulbs, ballasts, wiring harness, and anything else from this thread that is needed for the conversion.

These were taken off a 2011 at 120000 km. In decent condition. Had a body shop polish the lenses but it didn't come back perfect so Audi replaced the entire units! You could swap the lenses relatively easily to get a really nice fresh look.

PM me for more info.

[wilongo]

.....
I switched for Euro specs, and the side marker keep popping in the dash... How I get rid off???.. I turned it off on the coating but if I do so my DRL doesn't work!!! Help

.....
I did the whole conversion, everything coding everything, but I have Euro spec BiXenon lights no markers

[helldriver]

I Picked up some automotive lighting euro bi-xenons from tag motorsports, hope these work out better for me than the tyc's, having to many problems with them, these units are wired up funny, one thing works on one side, the other side doesn't.

Update: got the headlights installed, I had the pass side high beam flap stuck open on the TYC headlight, thats no longer a problem, high beams work perfectly now, drl's work with headlights off perfectly/ wink etc, but still have a problem with the DRL's on pass side not working while headlights are on, drivers side works, which was an issue with the TYC's, kinda thinking programming on that one, at least now I won't have people flashing me at night anymore.

If anyone could possibly shed some light on the pass side DRL's not working while heads are on problem, please help with some ideas, this conversion has been ongoing for about a year now, I knew it wouldn't be so easy, but I'm getting closer.

Cheers and happy holidays everyone.

-Scott

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[NPuter]

I Picked up some automotive lighting euro bi-xenons from tag motorsports, hope these work out better for me than the tyc's, having to many problems with them, these units are wired up funny, one thing works on one side, the other side doesn't.

Update: got the headlights installed, I had the pass side high beam flap stuck open on the TYC headlight, thats no longer a problem, high beams work perfectly now, drl's work with headlights off perfectly/ wink etc, but still have a problem with the DRL's on pass side not working while headlights are on, drivers side works, which was an issue with the TYC's, kinda thinking programming on that one, at least now I won't have people flashing me at night anymore.

If anyone could possibly shed some light on the pass side DRL's not working while heads are on problem, please help with some ideas, this conversion has been ongoing for about a year now, I knew it wouldn't be so easy, but I'm getting closer.

Cheers and happy holidays everyone.

-Scott

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Some led ballasts cannot drive the LEDs under a certain percentage. So the default of I think 9% dimmed brightness may not work with all ballasts.
I think upping the dimmed brightness percentage to ~30% should solve that for you. It's been a while since I've done it, but I think it's channel 3 adaptation in 09-Cent. Elec. module.

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[helldriver]

Sorry, I didn't include since the one didn't work with headlights on, I turned them down to 5% with Carista so they are both off, I get a fault, but they are off, when I installed the new housings, I turned them up to 50% and the pass side is still off. Thanks for replying man, idk?, something missed in the coding maybe?, everything else works perfect.

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[NPuter]

Sorry, I didn't include since the one didn't work with headlights on, I turned them down to 5% with Carista so they are both off, I get a fault, but they are off, when I installed the new housings, I turned them up to 50% and the pass side is still off. Thanks for replying man, idk?, something missed in the coding maybe?, everything else works perfect.

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That's interesting. 50% is plenty high enough to rule that out.
Try setting it to 100% and see if it works.

Still thinking it's a hardware issue with the ballasts. Guess it could also be wiring.
You can swap the ballasts to rule out wiring.

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[helldriver]

[QUOTE=NPuter;12854612]That's interesting. 50% is plenty high enough to rule that out.
Try setting it to 100% and see if it works.

Nick that was it, set to 100%, now both sides work with headlights on, strange and I don't know if I should wonder why?

Thanks man for your help, merry X was.

-Scott

[NPuter]

Nick that was it, set to 100%, now both sides work with headlights on, strange and I don't know if I should wonder why?

Thanks man for your help, merry X was.

-Scott

Good to hear that. Not sure if that's a complete solution though - 100% is definitely too bright (blinding to other drivers) imo.
Thinking it's a hardware issue where the ballast is unable to drive the LEDs at a dimmed brightness.
You can confirm (and rule out a wiring issue) if you swap the ballasts and see if the issue changes sides along with that.

Merry Christmas to you as well!

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[helldriver]

I did buy these in the form of a kit from hid concepts and they did look used, so maybe not working properly, I'll try a lower percentage tomorrow and see what happens, thanks again.

Tried 70% and 80% passenger will not work at anything less than 100%, and yeah your right even at 70% they are too bright, so I turned them all way down and off, I guess its safe to say its the ballast?, hid concepts has them for $109, says new but I've seen them go for $360 so idk.

[helldriver]

New or slightly used DRL power module did the trick, set the brightness at 30% and that seemed to much, dropped to 12% and I'm ok with that, so they are not over powering my LED blinkers, so thats great!.

After over a year mucking around with this conversion, everything is finally right, I think the AL headlight housings to me are a better choice if anyone is going to do this euro conversion, worth the extra $300 and just better quality, wiring in the housing is correct, I will not name the other brand, but just poor quality control or no quality control at all.

[VirgilAudia5]

I have the kufatec harness for converting from halogen to Xenon lights. Everything was going fine until I CAN'T FIND THE CONNECTOR TO PLUG IN THE HIGH-BEAM LIGHT WIRES! I have a 2011 Audi A5. Any help would be welcome.

[Dave.crisp]

Could anyone help me out and re-past there’s phots I can’t seem to see any of the photos and I am stuck on which plust to take out and put the 2 wires