TIP/6 speed DIY

[vtraudt]

To check for crimped line: disconnect hard line from slave, pressurize the reservoir (20 psi) (fully filled, since clutch master feed line is very high on reservoir) tank (I build myself a ghetto pressure bleeder from extra reservoir cap, drilled hole and threaded compressed air fitting it and RTV sealant to seal up). If not thing comes out the line: blocked, either clutch master (happened to me) or kinked line (hard to imagine you can kink a line so bad that not even small amounts of fluid can be pushed through).

[allroadinvail]

Where are we on this? Does the car run and are all the codes cleared?


Sent from the drivers seat while traveling at a high rate of speed!

[vtraudt]

Current status on mine:

- Cruise control not working, ESP not working (related i assume)
- Brake code coming back after some driving: 16955 - Brake Switch (F) P0571 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
- interior light not working (works when opening doors, but no with manual switches)
- door lock red LED blinking with car unlocked, closed, driving (always).

[e-rok1984]

So close!

Turns out my clutch master was bad, swapped in a new one and it bled right away. Clutch pedal feels pretty good, could probably use a bit more bleeding. I found reaching down behind the engine between the firewall was the easiest to get to the bleeder for what its worth. Just need to swap out the diff and driveshaft.

and do think I knew nothing about Audis 3 months ago before I bought this car lol

[Racin2redline]

It's funny how there's so many people almost completing swaps right now lol. I'm hoping to drive mine tomorrow. And yes over the top of the motor or if you remove the drivers axle sheild off the trans you can reach the bleeder pretty easily


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[e-rok1984]

It's funny how there's so many people almost completing swaps right now lol. I'm hoping to drive mine tomorrow. And yes over the top of the motor or if you remove the drivers axle sheild off the trans you can reach the bleeder pretty easily


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I have aftermarket downpipes so no heat shield to worry about from the top. Still a pretty tight squeeze

I just need to throw my bumper back and and reinstall the exhaust and hopefully it will start up. I didnt touch any wiring, just zip tied the trans harness to the subframe.

[e-rok1984]

Well.... It wont crank. Ideas? I didnt do any wiring changes, still running the tip ecu.


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[e-rok1984]

She drives! I was an idiot and forgot about the neutral safety switch. In a hurry, I just pulled it off the tip trans and plugged it in for now. Then I had a reL sloppy shifter and would only go into 2nd and 4th. Turns out the guy I bouht the swap from loosened the bolt for the shifter adjustment. Tignened it up and its good to go. Its like a completely different car, I love it

[e-rok1984]

So I probably didnt notice it yesterday since it was daylight and the light is dim, but my battery light is on now. Everything seems to be fine, holds ~14.2v while driving with the lights on, clearly I think its related to the swap. Anyone come across this?


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[xalents23]

Question for all that have done the tip to 6-speed swap. If I have all the wiring harness's (engine harness and entire cabin harness with fuses) from a manual car. Can I just swap in the manual harness for a direct plug and play? Without modding any of the wiring harness for the 6-speed swap. Thanks in advance.

[jballou]

Question for all that have done the tip to 6-speed swap. If I have all the wiring harness's (engine harness and entire cabin harness with fuses) from a manual car. Can I just swap in the manual harness for a direct plug and play? Without modding any of the wiring harness for the 6-speed swap. Thanks in advance.

Yes, that is why you have the harnesses.

[Scotty@Advanced]

Question for all that have done the tip to 6-speed swap. If I have all the wiring harness's (engine harness and entire cabin harness with fuses) from a manual car. Can I just swap in the manual harness for a direct plug and play? Without modding any of the wiring harness for the 6-speed swap. Thanks in advance.

The reverse light switch wiring goes through the engine harness. But you have to add the reverse wiring under the dash as the automatic reverse wiring is different (it goes through the auto trans harness).

I've made a mini harness that takes care of the reverse light and the neutral safety switch issue, basically all the under hood stuff is taken care of in a plug and play part.

[xalents23]

Thanks for the replies guys. Just wanted to make sure. Wanted to have all my ducks lined up.

[xalents23]

Okay I have a question about the front carrier on the tiptronic B5 S4. They seem to be different than the manual ones. I was going to pull the front carrier off of my car but, ran into a snag. I got all the wiring that goes around the fan shroud off. But noticed there is a two metal pipes that also goes around the fan shroud and connects to the radiator. Am I suppose to remove these pipes from the carrier or from under the car? The pipes have a 10mm bolt holding them onto the front carrier going to the radiator. Are these pipes oil, or coolant lines? I should have taken a picture of the pipes. Any info on thes would be greatly appreciated.

[bajanavant]

Okay I have a question about the front carrier on the tiptronic B5 S4. They seem to be different than the manual ones. I was going to pull the front carrier off of my car but, ran into a snag. I got all the wiring that goes around the fan shroud off. But noticed there is a two metal pipes that also goes around the fan shroud and connects to the radiator. Am I suppose to remove these pipes from the carrier or from under the car? The pipes have a 10mm bolt holding them onto the front carrier going to the radiator. Are these pipes oil, or coolant lines? I should have taken a picture of the pipes. Any info on thes would be greatly appreciated.

Yes unbolt the 10mm screws and it comes off the carrier and swings down, it connects to the trans if i'm not mistaken once it's out of the way the carrier should be good to go

[FLACO X3]

Tranny fluid

[xalents23]

Good to know thanks guys. Now I can start the labeling process with painters tape. Oh what fun.

[jballou]

Good to know thanks guys. Now I can start the labeling process with painters tape. Oh what fun.

Yes that is the trans cooler stuff. You will have a cooler behind drivers side intercooler as well. Remove all of that. You can plug the holes on the radiator, or get a manual trans radiator.

[xalents23]

Yes that is the trans cooler stuff. You will have a cooler behind drivers side intercooler as well. Remove all of that. You can plug the holes on the radiator, or get a manual trans radiator.

Should I flush the tranmission fluid before removing the trans cooler lines? Or just remove the lines and plug them up? I don't want any trans fluid spilling everywhere.

[jballou]

Should I flush the tranmission fluid before removing the trans cooler lines? Or just remove the lines and plug them up? I don't want any trans fluid spilling everywhere.

ah, just fill a bucket...

[flynlow]

Just had the 6MT swap done. Thanks Scotty! Different car, love it. I was able to code the cluster and the ABS module. (Log in to the ABS module using the 6MT log in, then it will accept the code first try) I cannot figure out how to get the ECU recoded. It will not take the the softcoding. I can't just swap to a 6MT ECU because I am STG 3. It is an APR modified L Box. I am wondering if the APR soldered on chip is affecting the ECU accepting the softcode.

Hoping that coding the ECU will get rid of that ABS and traction control light.

Any thoughts?

[erykv1]

Just had the 6MT swap done. Thanks Scotty! Different car, love it. I was able to code the cluster and the ABS module. (Log in to the ABS module using the 6MT log in, then it will accept the code first try) I cannot figure out how to get the ECU recoded. It will not take the the softcoding. I can't just swap to a 6MT ECU because I am STG 3. It is an APR modified L Box. I am wondering if the APR soldered on chip is affecting the ECU accepting the softcode.

Hoping that coding the ECU will get rid of that ABS and traction control light.

Any thoughts?

I'm sorry this wont be much help, but I will be in the same situation as you.
Does your car still drive on the auto ECU?

[flynlow]

It drives normally. Even after coding the ABS module I still have an ABS light, brake light, traction control light, and the 3 beeps on start up. I am going to try to do the steering alignment again to try and clear that issue up.

If it wasn't for the ABS and brake lights I wouldn't bother doing anything else to it. I have a few months to resolve this issue before my safety inspection is due.

[rollerton]

I just helped a friend with a whole engine / 6mt swap. We found that certains ECU file will not accept manual trans coding. His is an "L" box ECU- it would not accept manual coding so we wrote the manual file to the ECU using NEFmoto and no problem.
He wrecked his clockspring so waiting for another to finish the ABS/ S.A.S. calibration, but otherwise it was easy.

The car should definitely run and drive as long as the ECU has any appropriate file on it- doesn't drive as well because a couple inputs are missing (clutch pedal, etc..). But it'll drive.

[flynlow]

rollerton-

I ordered another ECU to flash. I am on Nef, and think I will be able to do the actual "flash", but I am definitely not ready to write the code for my STG 3. I may end up having to order a couple of tunes. (one for daily driving and one for race fuel).

[stew44]

It drives normally. Even after coding the ABS module I still have an ABS light, brake light, traction control light, and the 3 beeps on start up. I am going to try to do the steering alignment again to try and clear that issue up.

If it wasn't for the ABS and brake lights I wouldn't bother doing anything else to it. I have a few months to resolve this issue before my safety inspection is due.

You have to do a bunch of steps to get the ABS module recode to stick, including steering wheel sensor calibration etc.

[flynlow]

I can get the ABS coding to stick. But I still have the ABS/Brake/Traction Control lights. I am still playing with it, but not sure what else I need to do. The ECU is still looking for the TCU and I can't code the ECU.

[B62.7t17]

This makes things much easier thank you for your efforts. Does anybody know the part number for the longer drive shaft? In the process of doing this swap on my a4? thanks

[xalents23]

I need some help guys. I just finished the 6-speed swap and stage 3 K04 build on my Tiptronic 2002 B5 S4. I got my AA Tiptronic ECU recoded by 034 Motorsports with there stage 3 tune. The car starts but, I need help to recode the following things. Tiptronic speedo cluster recode to manual, ABS light on, and brake light flashing. Anyone that can help that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[flynlow]

Start with the cluster, then do the ABS module. You have to do the steering angle test to finish it and make the lights go out. Took me a couple of tries to get the steering angle test/calibration to stick.

[Niebelheim]

Ok, I need some help.
I finally got my new ECU from a manual s6 and put it in the car. I coded it so that the immo would match, and all is good. However. The car won't start. The starter doesn't even turn. What have I done wrong? Also couldn't code the ABS to manual. I got the correct login pin, but it will not accept the new coding. Any tips? What should I code the cluster to? Saw somewhere that channel 60 should be coded to 1025, and that is the only coding I did on the cluster. Is there more? Any tips are welcome.

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[Niebelheim]

Oh. And it is a 00 S6 C5 by the way.

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[flynlow]

It's been a while since have thought about the swap and my mind is definitely fuzzy, but reading a post above another guy had the same problem and it was the neutral safety switch.

[Niebelheim]

I have removed the whole gear shifter multiswitch, and jumped the relay (instead of the clutch safety switch) also removed the TCU. And there is no fault codes, which is even note frustrating.

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[skree25]

I have removed the whole gear shifter multiswitch, and jumped the relay (instead of the clutch safety switch) also removed the TCU. And there is no fault codes, which is even note frustrating.

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I had the same problem and it was the clutch switch. I didn't know there was another switch besides the plunger one on pedal. I ended up grounding the white/brown wire running to the blue relay under the ECU and that fixed the problem.

Does your car turn over with the ECU coded for automatic and the TCU plugged in?

In addition to the TCU you need to disconnect the 15 pin brown connector in the passenger footwell if I remember right. Otherwise the ECU believes its coded incorrectly, IIRC.

[Niebelheim]

I had the same problem and it was the clutch switch. I didn't know there was another switch besides the plunger one on pedal. I ended up grounding the white/brown wire running to the blue relay under the ECU and that fixed the problem.

Does your car turn over with the ECU coded for automatic and the TCU plugged in?

In addition to the TCU you need to disconnect the 15 pin brown connector in the passenger footwell if I remember right. Otherwise the ECU believes its coded incorrectly, IIRC.

I found the fault a few days after I posted last time. It was just me being stupid. There were two connector on the starter solenoid for the "starter signal", and I connected it to the only one I saw while laying under the car, and it was the wrong one.. I took out the starter, connected it to the correct terminal, and the car started right away.

[skree25]

Thread resurrection. Got a question on wiring for the 6mt swap to the starter inhibitor. Previously I had foregone the clutch cancel switch and just grounded the br/wh wire running to the blue connector under the ECU, and this allowed the car to start. Now after pulling the motor and undoing all the wiring and relays under the driver foot panel, my starter will crank even without grounding the br/wh wire. I had intended to install the clutch cancel switch but can’t figure out what I did to mess this up.

Side note, my ABS pump cycles when the key is turned off (have to pull the relay to stop it) and a mouse got into it the car while in storage. I only found two wires with any damage and got those fixed.

Can someone send me a wiring diagram so I can start digging into this?


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