First pull the engine and trans, the first time I did this I used The Jerbel's pull as reference, but here is another pull guide http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5...ne_Removal.pdf
What you will need
1- 01E trans
2- Flywheel and clutch
3- Clutch master/slave cylinders
4- Clutch pedal assy
5- Hydraulic lines for clutch
6- shifter and linkage
7- surround trim and shifter boot
8- front axles
9- Propshaft or trans/propshaft adapter
10- Rear differential
11- A 6 speed wiring harness is good to have, any condition, you are going to chop it up
Completely remove exhaust, driveshaft and rear diff. Dont take rear axles out, unless you are planning on changing them. mark u joint mount point for later reference. Pull the wiring harness and ECU out, you will need it out to modify it.
Once the drivetrain is out, split the engine and trans, make sure to mark the bell housing bolts so you can put them back where they belong
Take the TC carrier/tone ring off the engine, use a propane torch and lightly heat the spacer on the crank, use a deadblow hammer and tap, it should come right off
Mount the flywheel and torque to 44ft/lb + 180 turn, rmemeber that the flywheel is keyed, so it only goes on in one position
Align the clutch and install, torque to 25ft/lb in a diagonal sequence
At the trans, install new T.O. bearing
If you are lucky the 01E you picked up came with the bolts to mount to the engine, if not, get a set, they are not exactly the same as the TIP
Bolt the engine and trans back together, I found it easiest to use the engine hoist to hold the motor and a 3 ton rolling jack under the trans, get the top bolts started, then slowly work around clockwise until they are all started, then torque to spec
Put the downpipes on, I used the TIP downpipes, and adapted the spring mounts to mount to the 6 speed trans
Source the correct differential for your application, if you have an S4, you must use the S4 6 speed diff, if you have an A6, you must use the A6 diff. These parts are not interchangeable between the 2 platforms
Fill the new diff with your gear oil of choice (redline 75/90) while it is out of the car, on a flat surface.
Put the new diff into the car and torque
Put the propshaft in, at this point you can choose a new/used propshaft, or what I did was have a billet trans/propshaft adapter machined, the TIP trans is about 3" longer
The in car shit
Bolt the shifter box into the car
Remove driverside kick panels
Remove bake pedal assy, I tried to get the brake booster from the pedal assy with a tool I fabbed, but ended up back wrenching the servo ball nut and removing it that way.
With the brake pedal assy out, you can get the servo ball out of the white clips that hold it in, and put the servo ball back on the brake booster. I picked up a complete clutch pedal assy from Shokan, it included the clutch pedal position switch, the clutch vac/vent switch, I replaced the master cylinder with a new one
The clutch portion of the assy bolts to the brake portion, don't bolt them together until they are in place.
Now put the Brake assy in the car, then work the clutch pedal around the steering column into place, bolt the 2 of them together
Tighten down all nuts and bolts and your done that part
The rest of the in car is wiring and final istallation (same as any engine/trans pull)
Now on to modifying the wiring, Prince@VAST got me in touch with Rakta, he not only sent me these detailed pics and info, he was available to answer questions when they arose. I used this as a reference, use your Bentley wiring diagrams for exact wires on your application. I also had a 6 speed harness that I was able to cut up,
The red connector near the ECU has an empty terminal in slot #1. You need to install one female wire terminal in here, into slot #1. Likewise, you'll need to install the matching male terminal in the red connector down inside the ecu/firewall hole. This connector is the long and flat looking one. that whole run of colored connectors can come out through the footwell inside the car if you move enoug hstuff out of the way. tha'ts how i got them out.
Then there's the white connector. This one is kind of tricky. You will want some 22 gauge wire for this.
1. pop off the large plastic housing of the ECU cartridge connector. Yes, I' m talking about the big one. Also pull the purple "lock" out so that you can get the array of terminals out of the plastic part completely.
2. you need to take your 22 gauge wire and press it into terminal 39 like the other wires are pressed in: the splicing terminator is already in the plastic housing, so you just smash the insulated wire in there to "seat" it. you can use a volt meter to make sure the contact is strong.
3. this wire should run from the ECU cartridge over to the white connector, terminal #13. So install a male and female terminal in both ends of the white connector.. This is the tiny, square pin sized terminal.
white contact #13 goes to the clutch plunger switch. for the second clutch plunger switch wire, splice from the black and blue wire in the four-wire brake plunger switch. it's not EXACTLY the way a stock 6 speed is wired, but they both terminate at the same place, so a splice is permissible.
red contact #1 goes to the reverse lights switch on the trans. You'll want a long spool of 16 or 18 gauge wire to create this. Just ziptie it to the harness as it travels along the firewall and behind the engine. The other wire for the reverse light switch is brown connector #5.
on the brown connector, there IS a terminal installed on the car side for slot #5. but there isn't a female one on slot #5. so you'll want one female connector for brown. this one and the red one make up the reverse lights.
reverse lights:
since the brown connector already has a male pin at slot #5 (verify this), that part is already plumbed. so you only need to take the repair wire that you installed in the red connector and splice it to one of the wires in the connector station below the fuse panel. first find the brown connector with 10 pins, and the wire you want to splice onto is blue with a red stripe and fairly thick.
clutch pedal position:
CPP switch is F194 (manual-only, of course), and F125 is the tiptronic wiring harness. anyway:
the tiptronic harness that used to connect to the trans is what you have to gut for this one. look carefully near the driver side of the subframe and follow the tiptronic harness as it goes into the chassis. it goes straight back and into the footwell, there is a rubber plenum that it sneaks through. it's behind the pedals. you need to cut this thing open and find the wire that is brown with a white stripe. It's a very thin wire. I think there's another one, maybe white with brown stripe, so make sure you get the thinner of the two. This wire is what you need to splice into for one terminal of the clutch pedal position switch. These switches are simple contact switches so it doens't matter which wire you connect t owhich terminal.
The second wire for the clutch pedal position switch is just ground, so run a wire to one of the two grounding bolts over there by the fuse panel.
When I was done with the wiring I tucked the unused TIP harness betweeen the frame rail and the heat shielding on the drivers side of the engine bay, I cut the connectors off and used liquid electrical tape to seal the ends, then folded them back. I left the TCU harness in place in the passenger footwell, but removed the TCU.
When all was done I had to get my ECU flashed, then use vagcom to recode the cluster and ABS modules. I can't recall exact codes that I used, but I can pull them from VCDS if needed. My ECU is M box coded
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/l...iring%20issue/
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks