B7 A4 Timing Belt Change

[A-BlacK_MambA-4]

I'm surprised that no one has thrown in a water pump DIY in this thread as well considering the two basically go hand in hand with the same time both are recommended to be replaced


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I'm more surprised you asked for a water pump DIY in this thread lol. You need someone to show you how to remove 3 allen head bolts after you've just dismantled the whole front end and have those 3 bolts and water pump right in front of you?

[Jake@JHM]

Typically people do not change the water pump without doing the full timing belt job at the same time.

Because timing belt kit: http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...0t-p-1212.html

[bryonm]

I'm more surprised you asked for a water pump DIY in this thread lol. You need someone to show you how to remove 3 allen head bolts after you've just dismantled the whole front end and have those 3 bolts and water pump right in front of you?

Haha hey man I'm just speaking for other people if they didn't know where it's located once you get through all of that.


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[mnuttall]

FYI, if you need/want to remove the entire front end to access the six bolts (or when the last one strips out on you...) on the damper you do not need to evacuate the AC. If everything else is disconnected you can (carefully) rotate/slide everything else down under the engine.

[eastons41]

Not sure if anyone will know the answer to this one; however, I could possibly be moving to Germany by the end of the year (taking my b7 with me). The car has 57,000 miles and was wondering would it be cheaper to have the timing belt replaced here in the states or after she makes the trip over seas?

[papadelogan]

I would find a forum that is based in Germany, a regional forum for europe here (not sure one exists), find someone at Rammstein air force base, or just ask your local audi dealer to reach out to a dealership in germany.

Cheapest? DIY. It really isn't that bad. I HAD to do mine in Dec/Jan when my tb broke. Trust me, you don't want that option.

[MadhatterPDC]

Thanks, and yes, they're M8x1.5 thread. Something to make your procedure a little simpler...

Could someone please clarify the thread and pitch of the carrier lock pin slide bolts. M8 x 1.5 is an bit oddball size/pitch. I believe the OEM slide pins are # VAG 3411, and M8 x 1.25 and 10 inches long (8 mm and approx 250 mm long).

I had zero luck locally finding any threaded rod in metric let alone M8 x 1.25 so I ordered 2 of these from Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) They haven't arrived yet, but I will update here once I can test them.

[mjfrizz]

Just wanted to say thanks to you Phil, and to everyone else, for all the tips & techniques. I have the Bentley manual, but this was still an enormous asset. Just like the 1st time I did this, I spent nearly half my time trying to get all the hoses apart.

I wish I could get it done as fast as the rest of you guys, but then again, I quadruple check everything, and I have a blast doing this, so I take my time an soak it up.


Biggest B!%$# was that thermostat, I remember it being easier on the B6.

Happy New Year

[mjfrizz]

One question in case anyone can confirm... So u only loctite the timing belt cover bolts? The nut for the eccentric pulley and the other timing component attach hardware need no loctite? For some reason I thought when I did this on my b6 more stuff needed thread locker. thanks in advance

[fly300kts]

One question in case anyone can confirm... So u only loctite the timing belt cover bolts? The nut for the eccentric pulley and the other timing component attach hardware need no loctite? For some reason I thought when I did this on my b6 more stuff needed thread locker. thanks in advance

Correct, covers only
Happy new Year too

Phil

[audi8844]

If they were triple square, its because the timing belt was already replaced or some work was done to the pulley.
Original were HEX and Audi upgraded them to triple square

Phil

What size is this triple square? It looks like I need to order a bit for these...

[mjfrizz]

What size is this triple square? It looks like I need to order a bit for these...

That'd be 10mm trip square

[audi8844]

That'd be 10mm trip square

Thought so. Thanks!

[bdsxxx]

this is crazy audi would not take all this apart for a timing bely, the more you take apart the more you break, the longer the job. I don't have a plane to use while my car is apart. Just do your home work and follow the min procedure (like don't remove the AC freon!)

I followed another thread to replace the rear coolant flange, it was a 12 hr procedure, it is maybe 1.5 hours to do the job no need to remove vacuum pump, wiring looms, new hoses. I did not follow the user who said 2hrs... I took the defacto "worse than a timing belt approach" = 12 hrs.

[_muppet_]

I did my timing belt/ water pump/ and thermostat last night. I haven't bought a service manual for this car yet, as I haven't had the need to yet, this thread was very helpful. The job went smoothly, except I had to take the hard pipe off the thermostat one extra time when it was all back together, because it was dripping, I put a new o-ring on and all is well. I've had the kit sitting on a shelf for almost a year now. Since winter got here, my car hasn't been warming up all the way, so I thought it was time to do the thermostat.

I bought this car with around 80k on it from a dealer and there was no mention of the timing belt ever being done. The car fax showed pretty frequent servicing at the dealer, and all of the prior service intervals had been marked in the book. When I took the cover off, I saw two little paint marks on the cam gear, and one on the crank pulley, and a couple specks of paint on the belt. I assume this means the belt has probably been changed in the past? I've never seen this on an original belt before? The car is now at 107k, and I thought I was probably pushing the limit. Either way the thermostat needed to be done, and the belt really isn't that bad to change, or that expensive, so I'm glad to have it done and know for sure that it should be good to go for a while.





old belt marks



new belt, and new snub

[wesalexleft]

Working on the timing belt change and I've hit a bit of a snag. Phil's guide says to release the hood cable. Exactly how does one do that? I've looked and looked and can't see how to release the cable. Does the latch have to be unbolted and removed first? Any special trick. I've looked at Bentley and it didn't really help me understand it either.

Thanks,

[tankdeer]

Working on the timing belt change and I've hit a bit of a snag. Phil's guide says to release the hood cable. Exactly how does one do that? I've looked and looked and can't see how to release the cable. Does the latch have to be unbolted and removed first? Any special trick. I've looked at Bentley and it didn't really help me understand it either.

Thanks,

It just pops out. No bolts necessary. Pull out and back a little and it'll come out

[wesalexleft]

Huge shout out to Phil for the DIY!

Hoping for opinions on one more step of the timing job however. Mine is an automatic. (Why they built them I'll never know, but I ended up with one.) So, I'm in service position, but I'd like to swing the nose to one side. My problem is on the passenger side, I have transmission fluid lines in the radiator, and on the driver side I have power steering fluid lines. It seems like everyone swings it to the driver side like Phil. Any reason I shouldn't remove the power steering cooler and plug the liners to swing it the other way? I don't see any other obstacles. These lines look easier to disconnect, plug, and easier to replace lost fluid. I've already dropped the AC evap to below the car, and don't want to try and set the nose on top of that.

Thanks!

[_muppet_]

I thought there was plenty of room in service mode, but if you really want it out of the way, I don't see any reason that you couldn't disconnect the power steering lines.

[wesalexleft]

I'm so close to having full access, I figured the extra step might be worth it. Just wanted to be sure there wasn't something else I was missing before swinging it the other way. It looks like the transmission lines have enough slack to leave them connected.

thanks,

[wesalexleft]

Putting the bumper cover back on. All was going well until I saw a wire that I forgot to reconnect. I believe it's the garage door opener transmitter. I'm hoping someone can tell me where this belongs so that I may have a chance of getting it back in place without complete bumper removal. Of the three electrical connectors if Phil's pictures, it's the small round gadget that has a white with yellow stripe and a brown with yellow stripe. It is NOT THE 4 pin connector, or the 8 pin connector, or the washer fluid connector.,but the remaining one. Last resort is I relocate it, but I'd like to put it in place if possible/reasonable.

Thanks!

[wesalexleft]

Bump for the new day...is this the Garage Opener transmitter, and if so, where should it go?

thanks!

[tankdeer]

It's the ambient air temperature. There is a little bracket in front of the radiator that it snaps into. On top of the little power steering cooler loop

[Jake@JHM]

It's the ambient air temperature. There is a little bracket in front of the radiator that it snaps into. On top of the little power steering cooler loop

x2

[wesalexleft]

Thanks! I took a quick look at lunch, and with the right tools, I think I can get it back in place without removing the bumper.

[frankvan]

Half way through this and i have to give a big thanks to Phil for this DIY. Total lifesaver.
Only problem I've had is I destroyed the small coolant line that goes across the front of the TB cover to the turbo.
And just to add my $0.02:
I unplugged everything from the top of the front clip and removed intercooler hoses, rotated it under the engine slightly and supported on a block. This gave me 100% visualization of the 6 crank pulley bolts. Only thing I drained was coolant which I have to anyways since I'm doing water pump and thermostat.
Speaking of draining coolant, I twisted, turned, pulled, pushed the drain cock at the bottom of the rad to no avail. In the end just removed the metal clip and disconnected the bottom hose, drained real quick then.
My 6 crank pulley bolts were Allen head not triple square (2006 B7).
Only other issue I've had is the hard metal line on the thermostat.

BTW, should I be concerned with a little oil in the intercooler lines? It's a low point in the system so any that blows by would settle there.

[MadhatterPDC]

I believe the OEM slide pins are # VAG 3411, and M8 x 1.25 and 10 inches long (8 mm and approx 250 mm long).

I had zero luck locally finding any threaded rod in metric let alone M8 x 1.25 so I ordered 2 of these from Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) They haven't arrived yet, but I will update here once I can test them.

I forgot to loop back and confirm that those threaded rods worked great. So there you have it, M8 x 1.25 and I will mention that those rods weren't very strong... but that worked out perfect once I disconnected everything across the top, the nose then swings down and gives you great access. Of course, if the six crank pulley bolts don't give you any trouble, I could see this job being done with only moving the nose forward 3-4 inches.

[mtroxel]

Speaking of draining coolant, I twisted, turned, pulled, pushed the drain cock at the bottom of the rad to no avail. In the end just removed the metal clip and disconnected the bottom hose, drained real quick then.

Did mine yesterday and was about to post the same thing. Mine turned fine, 0 coolant came out so I just pulled the hose.

My 6 crank pulley bolts were Allen head not triple square (2006 B7).

Ditto. I think they were 6mm Allen?

[frankvan]

Yup, 6 mm.

[Anton]

Did the belt today with the Europaparts kit. Everything worked fine . We got stuck and spent the most time on the hoses. Removing those three from the thermostat took a bit of time, mostly the middle and lower, with the middle being the metal line. The actual timing piece was very straightforward and we looked at Phil's DIY for a reference but nothing to tricky with these engines.
Right before I went to change the belt, sounded like my exhaust fell off. Sure enough checked afterwards and the clamps in the middle that hold them, one of the pipes coming from the cat was just hanging, just rust all over :(. Will have to look into this tomorrow.

http://s288.photobucket.com/user/Ant...1b3ma.jpg.html
http://s288.photobucket.com/user/Ant...hhel6.jpg.html
http://s288.photobucket.com/user/Ant...dpeeb.jpg.html
http://s288.photobucket.com/user/Ant...8nmd8.jpg.html

[VEEDUBB1]

Is it nesisairy to disconnect battery to unplug impact sensors on bumper?

[Anton]

Is it nesisairy to disconnect battery to unplug impact sensors on bumper?

I did not disconnect the battery at that point but I did after taking the alternator off because you have a positive line from the battery and causes a nice spark if you touch it with any of your tools

[QuattroPower88]

Wow Phil... I cannot thank you enough for this amazing write-up!! I owe you a beer somehow.

Smooth sailing all the way through with only a couple minor snags:
- My lack of proper tools that I had to purchase along the way
- Top coolant hose on thermostat was difficult to get off that metal pipe. Had to destroy it to remove it and wait for a new one to arrive. Good thing we have an extra Audi!

[fly300kts]

Wow Phil... I cannot thank you enough for this amazing write-up!! I owe you a beer somehow.

Smooth sailing all the way through with only a couple minor snags:
- My lack of proper tools that I had to purchase along the way
- Top coolant hose on thermostat was difficult to get off that metal pipe. Had to destroy it to remove it and wait for a new one to arrive. Good thing we have an extra Audi!

I am up for the beer and you are most welcome, glad I was able to help

Phil

[brew_daugus]

Big thanks to Phil for the DIY and Europaparts for the kit. Those who did this in the service position without at least rotating the front end under the car I commend you. No way I was getting the crank pulley bolts otherwise. Interesting note, if you strip the head on one of those crank pulley bolts, don't sweat. Drill the cap off and it will unscrew by hand (ask me how I know). Also if you killed a power steering pump this winter like I did then this is a great time to do it, especially if you moved your alternator.

[4ty-phive]

I just finished mine about an hour ago. I'm so proud of myself. Thanks for all the assistance that this community provides. Awesome feeling.

[Supersquid]

First, thanks SO much for the outstanding tutorial!! This community is a wealth of info. Hope to contribute in the future. For the now, though...

Got some time to start this job last night. Stopped just short of completely removing the front end.

Might have to suck this one up, but I'd like to completely swing the carrier (as Phil has done) to have the best access. How are you guys dealing w/ the air conditioner hose on the lower passenger side of the radiator? I don't see a way to swing the carrier with that hose connected.

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Also, the coolant pipe/hose going across the front of my timing belt cover (into the turbo) is mostly metal, and has very little play to work around. The ones I see on here are completely rubber. Hoping I don't have to remove that as well. Anyone else hit this snag?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440605491.976480.jpg

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Cheers!

[mtroxel]

How are you guys dealing w/ the air conditioner hose on the lower passenger side of the radiator? I don't see a way to swing the carrier with that hose connected.

I wish I had a picture to show how I do it. I used to do it the same way with my B5. I don't evacuate the R134, I just sort of take the condenser (you have to unplug that sensor by the passenger side headlight first) and turn it 180 degrees to the left so it's upside down facing the car, then I can bend it back along side the passenger corner of the front bumper. The rubber hoses flex quite a bit when you do it, but I did that same thing about 6 times on my B5 and never lost any refrigerant.

[Supersquid]

Thanks! I ended up slipping the carrier down and just working from that position - plenty of access. Also, pulled the turbo coolant hose/pipe a couple inches by removing the bracket - just enough to slip the TB cover off. Voila!

Hit the six pulley bolts w/ some lube, held the crank w/ one socket and the others w/ another socket. They broke free relatively easy.

Resumed work (after work) this evening and got to installing the water pump and realized I don't have a seal . I'm reluctant to reuse the old one (although it looks okay). Off to Audi tomorrow morning.

[papadelogan]

Good call on not reusing the water pump seal, though I would have expected a new one to come with the kit. Was it not included or did you misplace it?