B7 A4 Timing Belt Change

[Sales@RAI]

The kit I just got from europaparts wasn't all OEM. It was all definitely quality stuff, but IIRC the only thing I got with four rings on it was the updated DV that has nothing to do with the TB kit. I can list off manufacturers when I get home tonight if anyone's interested, but nothing I received was second rate.

Right, which is fine and pretty much everyone that sells timing belt kits uses these parts, because OEM would probably be double the price

[ClownTrigger]

Hey folks. We just loaded the B7 2.0T Timing Belt Kit on the site. Check it out:

What the hell is this for? I paid for it but have no idea where it goes.. lol

[ClownTrigger]

I've noticed that a few posts above refer to the crank dampner bolts as "allan bolts". On my 2005.5, as well as the replacement bolts I got with my kit, these bolts are not allen head bolts, but are 10mm XZN (triple square 12 pt) bolts. A six sided hex key or socket will almost surely strip these out.

Also, I'm a big fat liar. My old bolts were hex cap (allen) but the new ones are XZN. No probs getting the old ones out though. phew.

[dbcperformance]

We sold over and installed number of these kits. We list all part numbers as well as the manufacturers which are all OE Suppliers i.e. Any questions, we would be more than happy to answer:

http://www.dbcperformance.com/produc...timing.kit.htm

[fly300kts]

We sold over and installed number of these kits. We list all part numbers as well as the manufacturers which are all OE Suppliers i.e. Any questions, we would be more than happy to answer:

http://www.dbcperformance.com/produc...timing.kit.htm

I ordered my Kit from DBCperformance and these Guys are Top notch selling great products

Phil

[joeygriebel]

wow!!!!

[fly300kts]

wow!!!!

What happen?

Phil

[damien]

How much will an indy charge to do this?

Excellent write up.

[the director]

Great write up Phil, I just bought my B7 and its sitting right around 73k so I plan on doing this ASAP. I definately agree with being over cautious on this maintenance. I had my B5 A4's TB tensioner go about 6 months after I bought it and if the 2.0T is an interference engine like the 1.8T is then this is what you'll have to look forward to...


Not fun times.

Thanks again Phil looks pretty similar to the B5 procedure that I am unfortunately well aware of.

BTW, not trying to thread jack, just want to stress the importance of this maintenance...

[markcorrado1]

Just finished my TB job yesterday and OMG, Murphy's Law f'd with me through the entire job!!!

All I gotta say is make sure you have these 2 tools: 4mm triple square socket (to remove the metal hose going into the thermostat):


And an IRWIN bolt out kit, you'll most likely need the 1/2 socket to remove the crank pulley sockets that will round out (3 out 6 in my case). The only other thing I could think of is maybe it would be better to use an impact screw driver with the allen socket first. But if you do round out the bolts, you will have to hammer on the 1/2 IRWIN bolt remover socket and I do mean hammer because the space between the center crank bolt and the 6 allen head bolts is very small so you'll have to force it on there!!!

Other tools you'll need is Torx t20 and t30 and then after that a different sockets 10mm, 11mm, and 13mm mostly with different long extensions.

Also with me having a CVT tranny I had to remove the 2 transmission cooler lines from the radiator on the passenger side, didn't lose too much fluid and within the next hundred miles I'm due for a tranny flush anyway. But because of all the hurdles I encountered my TB job took 3 bloody days on and off between trying to find the triple square 4mm socket and the 3 stupid crank pulley bolts.

[fly300kts]

I hope one day the Admins will finally decide to put this post in the DIY section

Phil

[viziers]

Good luck with that as I submitted a DIY for a FWD to AWD conversion through the proper channels a year ago and still have not heard anything!!! I'm tempted to post it in the B7 Tech forum....


vizi

[naiku]

I am going to need to replace the belt on my car in the next few months, coming up on 90k and do not want to leave this any longer than I have to. The DIY appears pretty straight forward, but how easy is it? I am far from an experienced mechanic, but can follow directions and am able to do most of the simpler things on the car (valve cover gasket, oil changes, spark plugs etc).

Hoping that this is as straight forward as it appears and saving myself $400-$500.

[Dangler]

I plan on ordering my timing belt kit from blauparts.com they offer a timing belt tool kit rental. I wanted to know if it is really needed to get the timing belt tool kit along with the replacement parts??? I want to order it now, and do the install at a later time. Blauparts only lets you order the timing belt tool kit, when you order the timing belt kit, and there is a time limit with how long you can hold on to the tool kit. So Basically, can this job be accomplished with basic tools, and if there are special tools, can they be fabricated????

[fly300kts]

I plan on ordering my timing belt kit from blauparts.com they offer a timing belt tool kit rental. I wanted to know if it is really needed to get the timing belt tool kit along with the replacement parts??? I want to order it now, and do the install at a later time. Blauparts only lets you order the timing belt tool kit, when you order the timing belt kit, and there is a time limit with how long you can hold on to the tool kit. So Basically, can this job be accomplished with basic tools, and if there are special tools, can they be fabricated????

You don't need any tool. What Blauparts is renting are 2 rods to slide out the bumper but slide it to the side, same result. They also rent the 2 extractors to replace the garlock seal of the crankshaft and camshaft. If they don't leak, leave them alone.
Blaupart has the most complete kit around and great quality. For example, the empeller water pump is metallic while most competitors offer it in plastic, proned to failed. The only item included in the kit is the OEM stricker to write down the mileage and install on the timing belt cover. ECS has it for $3

Phil

[vbrad26]

yeah $3 but like $10 shipping lol
i had to order something else...which was fine lol

[Dangler]

Thanks for the response Phil. I'm going to order the kit tonight, and I'm going to do it myself. With your DIY and My Bentley Manual, I shouldn't have any problem doing it myself. I've got pretty much all the tools needed for this job too. I'm assuming you meant to say that the blauparts kit "doesn't" include the sticker, because you mentioned that ECS tuning carriers it correct??

Thanks again.

[chrislane31]

For the crank pulley bolts go to Sears and buy a brand new Allen socket. We had a used one that looked fine but it rounded off in 3 off the bolt heads.

[Dangler]

oh and europa parts and dbc performance carry the service sticker also. Shipping is more reasonable from these two, becasue they can ship usps.

and chris, i was thinking about picking up some new tools or some high quality tools that are made better and to tighter tolerances to prevent any delays from stripping bolts.

[vbrad26]

just got all my parts in today phil...

[clemsongt]

PDF of the step by step from ELSAWin

Thought this might be of use to some. The more information that is out there the better. This document also has torque specs and which bolts should be replaced and not reused.

Phil, if you find this useful enough, you can add the link to your original post.

[Dangler]

just got all my parts in today phil...

Just got my enhanced kit from blauparts. the components are really nice.

[rensho]

Fly300kts, thanks again for creating an amazing DYI.

I bought the TB kit from Blauparts, after looking at several others. The kit is very high quality, and includes everything xcept the sticker. It includes the 6 bolts for the damper pulley. They include great instructions in the kit. I would buy again from these guys.

My install took 8 easy hours. I've never removed the bumper before, so that ate 1hr right there.
Anyone else feel that 15ft/lbs is too little for the damper pulley bolts? It took so little effort to get to 15lbs.
My TB belt did not look worn/dry/cracked. All the tensioners/idlers felt good as well, no play.
I did not touch the crank/cam seals.

Tips:
--Remove the front wheels and put the car on jack stands. I wasted time with ramps, only to NOT be able to get at the screws/bolts for the bumper removal.
--Use the 2 M8x120 bolts that hold the aluminum bumper rail as the slider pins(tool 3411) instead of buying M8 bolts.
--I left the front carrier, lights, rad, etc in place and just moved everything to the service position.
--Hammer in your allen key into the damper bolts before turning them. I started to round one of them because it wasn't fully seated.
--Don't start this unless you have the 10mm triplesquare needed to remove the aluminum bumper rail.
--I didn't pull the heater hose to bleed the system. I filled it and drove it for 3-4 mins and the system burped. It then took another liter or so. Ended up with about 4.5L drained and filled.

--Most importantly: Before you start putting things back together, make a checklist of things to check and torque: Idlers, tensioner, tensioner keyed into pocket of block, etc.

[shiro1745]

Phil, why didn't you replace the crankshaft and cam seals since you had everything apart? I understand they were not leaking but it can happen anytime soon right? So I don't see why not do it unless you know something we don't. And by the way is this something difficult to do?

How long did it take you to get the job done?

I'm about to change mine very soon

[fly300kts]

Phil, why didn't you replace the crankshaft and cam seals since you had everything apart? I understand they were not leaking but it can happen anytime soon right? So I don't see why not do it unless you know something we don't. And by the way is this something difficult to do?

How long did it take you to get the job done?

I'm about to change mine very soon

Total job, when used to, about 6 hrs
Crankshaft and Camshaft seal can be a real pain to replace, mainly to extract, even with the tool

Phil

[B5 Quattro]

Wow, Good write up.
Thanks.

[shiro1745]

Total job, when used to, about 6 hrs
Crankshaft and Camshaft seal can be a real pain to replace, mainly to extract, even with the tool

Phil

Thanks Phil

[walky_talky20]

Just wanted to add a tip here. It seems there is a lot of trouble with those M6 crank pulley bolts stripping on people. This is a very common problem on all modern Audi's. Cleaning the allen hole out and hammering the tool into is a great tip. Another tip I would add is to use a chisel and hammer. You want to give each bolt a really good hit on the *side* of the bolt head. Your chisel edge would be perpendicular to the bolt's shaft, not parallel (else it would easily slip when you go to hit it). You want to try and contact the bolt head as near to the base as possible. Giving it several hits is not a bad idea either. Don't be afraid if you are denting the bolt a bit, you are replacing it anyway. Getting it out in 1 piece is the name of the game here. This percussive shock to the bolt will help to break it free. In reality, you are applying a very minor stretch to the top of the bolt, which serves to loosen it in its hole. This works extremely well at reducing the amount of torque you must apply with your allen tool to extract the bolt, thus reducing the chance of it stripping.

I realize the clearance may be more of an issue on the 2.0T due to the use of 6 bolts instead of 4 (like a 1.8T). But whatever contact you can get on the bolt will be helpful.

In the event the bolt begins to strip...STOP...and hit it a few more times, and continue. In the event that the bolt is already stripped and your tools are having a hard time applying much loosening torque to the bolt, you can actually have a helper chisel/tap the bolt head *while* you attempt to turn the bolt. Work up the best solution you have to get some torque on it (maybe a torx socket, or a bolt-out socket, or pound in a larger allen), and then apply as much twist as you can without stripping while somebody taps on it with the chisel+hammer. This percussive shock while turning is very effective, basically a very controlled impact driver type action.

This is a method I use on every Audi/VW crank pulley bolt I remove, and I've never had to drill one out or use bolt-out type tools, even on very rusty, over-torqued, re-used bolts. It works every time.

[shiro1745]

I plan on ordering my timing belt kit from blauparts.com they offer a timing belt tool kit rental. I wanted to know if it is really needed to get the timing belt tool kit along with the replacement parts??? I want to order it now, and do the install at a later time. Blauparts only lets you order the timing belt tool kit, when you order the timing belt kit, and there is a time limit with how long you can hold on to the tool kit. So Basically, can this job be accomplished with basic tools, and if there are special tools, can they be fabricated????

For whoever wants to get the kit from Blauparts,
they let you order the tool kit 30 days after you place the order. I talked to them about this yesterday. What you need to do is when you order the tool kit put you timing belt kit order number in and they will figure it out. I just ordered my belt kit and I'll probably get the tool kit before I start the job. It would be a good idea to call them before and tell them your location this way they can tell you how many days the shipping will take. Since I'm in NJ it would take 2 days to get it they said.
They seem really nice and helpful.

EDIT: I said 30 days ^ it's actually 90 days, I just talked to them, so you basically have three months to rent the tool kit after you purchased your timing belt kit.

[betyouaint]

A tip I picked up 20 years ago during my first ever timing belt change was to not only mark the positions of the cam pulleys and crankshaft, but to continue those marks onto the belt itself. Then, once you remove the belt, transfer the marks to the new belt and ensure the new belt goes on in the same position as the original using the marks. This way you don't have to rely on cam locks or setting TDC or anything of that ilk. If all the pulleys line up correctly with the belt then you shouldn't have to move the crankshaft at all and will only need to tweak the cam pulley(s) a degree or two if they were disturbed during removal. This technique has never done me wrong and makes the whole thing less complex.

BTW... Thanks for the guide. Great work.

[ericpaulyoung]

We sold over and installed number of these kits. We list all part numbers as well as the manufacturers which are all OE Suppliers i.e. Any questions, we would be more than happy to answer:

http://www.dbcperformance.com/produc...timing.kit.htm

That is a really great price for the kit.
- Eric

[rosd2a4]

Hello, Moderators. Can we add a sticky on TB change i.e. "Tips and Tricks for TB change" or other DIY's. Phil's write up was awesome(Thank you Phil). I would have not done it without it. Here are some tips for whoever is willing to take on the chanllenge on doing it and saving money and instant gratification:

a. IMPORTANT! before you do anything - read up on it and picture it in your mind doing it. do this a few times. so, your mindset is fresh and have a courage in doing it. of course, the right tools, double check everything, take lots of picture, bring a lot of patience, and take your time.

b. TB access - use Phil's DIY reference - you don't have to disconnect A/C lines - slide out and down to ground put support on radiator - you'll have plenty of room to access TB.

c. T-stat removal - disconnect top hose, remove torx screw on middle metal hose on T-stat body. pry it out with flat screw driver gently and pull middle metal hose out slightly once popped out the T-stat house and STOP. remove the two hex bolt on T-stat and slide out towards you. then pull out bottom hose (pop the clip). you'll have plenty of space and leverage to pull bottom hose. put things back in reverse order.

d: filling coolant - 2 gallons of G12 50/50 mix - squeeze/pump top and bottom coolant hose to let air out and suck in new coolant in engine. do this a few times until you hear coolant flowing on top coolant hose. if you have air, you'll see your coolant in reservoir bubble up. before starting car, leave reservoir open, put heat on HI on low fan setting, start the car and start squeezing/pumping top and bottom coolant lines. you'll feel and hear coolant flowing. run car for a few minutes to get coolant going. do this process a couple of times. put reservoir cap back on and test drive. when done test driving. let car cool down and check coolant level again. add if neccesary. Note: In adding coolant. Don't fill over MAX level. If you do, I'll make a mess.

NOTE: It's up to you if you want to follow these tips. I am NOT responsible for any damage to your car or engine. Good Luck!

[nycmalu]

Phil, where did you get those bolts to slide the front off? I went to the dealership and they have nothing like that. Do you have a part number or anything I can look up online?

[BMT62688]

I used this DIY yesterday and somehow I got the whole job done in a little over 4 hours and I double and triple checked everything. I don't know what mileage everyone is doing this at but I have 68600 and I had a squeaky pulley and when I got everything off I noticed the belt jumped a tooth and it was actually stretched enough that I could push on it and get it to come off the one idler pulley so my suggestion is that if you have a louder than normal FSI tick or here a squeaking pulley get prepared to do your timing.

[fly300kts]

Phil, where did you get those bolts to slide the front off? I went to the dealership and they have nothing like that. Do you have a part number or anything I can look up online?

I made them. Use some threaded rod (M8) from home depot

Phil

[papadelogan]

Does anyone have the proper torque values for all the bolts that need to be removed/reinstalled/replaced for this DIY? I am also replacing the serpentine belt tensioner so the torque value(s) for those bolt(s) would be highly appreciated. Thanks!!

[fly300kts]

Does anyone have the proper torque values for all the bolts that need to be removed/reinstalled/replaced for this DIY? I am also replacing the serpentine belt tensioner so the torque value(s) for those bolt(s) would be highly appreciated. Thanks!!

Added to Page 1

Phil

[papadelogan]

Thanks Phil!!!

[tehuberduber]

Just got my tb kit in from Europa and am planning to do this in the next few weeks. I've already got this guide printed out to have on hand for reference. Thanks for the great info!

[M0E7]

Thanks for this write-up!

Had my car for less than a week and successfully did the timing belt job, thermostat, accessory belt tensioner and idler pulley, diverter valve, and snub mount. Got my kit from Europa parts. Some notes:

-I followed "walky_talky20"'s advice above and had zero issues getting out the crank pulley bolts (98k miles, I expected some problems)

-The trickiest part for me was the thermostat. Installed the first time and had a bad leak from a damaged Thermostat-to-Engine seal. Replaced that and had the common leak at the hard-line going into the thermostat. After loosening the 2 oil cooler bolts and adjusting the hardline this seems to have gone away. I did not have any problems bleeding the system or with overheating, but had to add a little coolant over the next 2 days so there was definitely some air left in the system.