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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings GotRS?'s Avatar
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    DIY: B6/B7 Replacing stock sub woofer

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    This is a brief how-to, from my install of a sub woofer in place of the stock one under the parcel shelf in an RS4, although it is equally good for the B6/B7 A4/S4. I've included my amp install as well but that is free choice for you since price and mounting etc are far more flexible there. Also this was in an RS4 where the battery is in the trunk.

    The speaker is the Pioneer shallow mount 8" suitable for free-air use:

    http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...llow/TS-SW841D

    The amplifier is a Kenwood KAC-8104D:

    http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entert...iers/kac-8104d

    I like the amp for its autosensing power on/off feature and its size to fit near the battery under the trunk liner. If you're doing this on other than an RS4 you'll need a different home for it.


    Safety: Always disconnect the battery when working on the electrical system

    Start by lowering the back seat backrest down for access.

    Tip: Be careful not to trap the buckle that comes up between the seats, under the backrest surface as it comes down, it will leave a nasty indent in the leather.

    Gently pry up the front of the grille in the parcel shelf. Grab the sides and pull it forward and up to release it from the back. There are no screws.



    Unscrew the four T20 screws from around the speaker.



    Where the shelf folds down behind the seat back, run a screwdriver under and side to side, and locate the four (or five?) poppers that the shelf clips to the body with. Pry the poppers free with your screwdriver.

    Tip: Get the tip of the screwdriver as close to the poppers as you can to pry free, otherwise they can easily be ripped off the underside of the shelf if you just pull on the shelf. No big worry if you lose a couple in battle, the seat back holds the shelf down.



    Pull up the shelf enough to get to the speaker enclosure, the shelf doesn't have to come out. There are two T20 screws to remove inside the enclosure in the front two corners very deep down next to the speaker. There is a third accessible from the trunk at the rear of the speaker grille. Unplug the speaker connection near the enclosure and you are clear to pull up the front of the whole unit and lift out.



    There are four little clips holding the speaker grille to the enclosure, you can see one center right next to the speaker. Pop these through and off comes the grille.



    Upturned enclosure. Look at the very ends of the grille "webs", I have cut through those to remove the center of the grill to allow the rear of the new speaker to come through.



    Sealant on the newly crafted mounting ring.



    The new speaker comes with a rubber sleeve around its perimeter, discard it, the speaker grille surround will not fit with it in place and you can use silicon sealant to make a flexible seal which prevents any contact of the speaker with the mount. Clip the newly crafted mounting ring back in place around the speaker



    Enclosure turned back over again. The original speaker wire is shown for reference to the earlier picture but you should have taken that out by now because the terminals for this new speaker are in the trunk (my bad).



    Insert the enclosure back where it came from, there is adequate clearance although that was my worry when I started that it wouldn't go back in. Phew. Screw back in place with the three screws you removed and you're ready to add the amplifier. Don't refit the rear shelf yet, you'll need access to hide wires under there.



    This is an even briefer guide on the amp install but it is flexible as I said.



    Pulling out the filler styrofoam from around the battery reveals a nice spot for an amp in the RS4. The section holding the tire pump is cut away to make room (the pump fits easily in the back of the cubby to the left of the trunk).

    To remove the trunk side liner, first remove the screws holding the long trim at the bottom opening of the trunk, remove the trim, then the one or two screws holding the side liner may be removed and the liner pulled open as shown. The wire seen is for the rear power socket in the right cubby, which needs disconnecting before pulling back the liner. This is where I tapped in for +12V power, a good high current source (well high enough for this mild audio addition). The amp –ve terminal should go to a good body connection point, I drilled a small hole to screw a connection to.



    This shows the original Bose amp for reference. There is a white wire I understand in that big connector, which can be used for switching an amp on/off. I used an autosensing amp instead.



    Early stages of fitting. You will need to get the speaker signal from the original connector you took off up by the speaker. Extend that wire pair down to the amp speaker-level input. Also run beefy wires back up to the new speaker along the same route. These are easily hidden behind the side liner and under the rear shelf.



    Replace the side liner, not forgetting to connect up the power socket in the cubby again (a little tricky) and rear trim. At this stage I added Dynomat over the bottom of the rear shelf bodywork in the trunk, and patches wherever I could fit it under the shelf inside the car. I hardly found space for two sq.ft. or so.

    Put back down the rear shelf, locating the poppers in their mounting holes and push firmly. Replace the four screws around the speaker and replace the grill. Fold up the seats and pump up the volume!

    For reference, I have the gain set to 0dB (minimum) and the low pass filter to 100Hz. It took me a while to realize that the gain being up any higher just did not work, there's a lot of power in that amp and the signal in is already at speaker level.

    Last edited by GotRS?; 09-14-2009 at 11:47 AM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings WinterRunner's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Awesome! Great write up. How is the new sound quality?

  3. #3
    Registered Member Four Rings B6JoeS4's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    1000 watts is a ton of power for that tiny pioneer free-air

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings Brian0473's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Dude...how does it sound???
    ______________
    Current: '11 F150 KR; '92 Porsche 968; '96 Ferrari F355; '13 Jeep Wrangler; 13 Ducati Hypermotard SP
    Past: RS4#1 = '07 Misano Red (SOLD); RS4#2 = '07 Phantom Black (SOLD); '08 C63 (SOLD); '09 997.2 Carrera S (RIP); '09 SL63 (SOLD); '92 Spec Miata (SOLD); '10 M3 DCT Coupe (SOLD);

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings GotRS?'s Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Sounds great to me, not like your big boxes for sure but it's clean sound. 1000W LOL, that's the BS peak figure, but I couldn't find anything else with lower power and smaller.
    Someone may want to try a box around the back of the speaker to test, but my old back won't let me crawl in the trunk for that

  6. #6
    Registered Member Four Rings B6JoeS4's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    more details about this vf r32 is see in your garage.......

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings GotRS?'s Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Quote Originally Posted by B6JoeA4 View Post
    more details about this vf r32 is see in your garage.......
    OT - wife's car
    http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/p...R32RaceGas.flv

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Nice writeup -- why did you use the aux power/cigarette lighter wiring for the +12V connection? Or did i just read wrong? I would personally use 8 awg wiring directly to the battery.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Wow, thank you. Someone finally tried that Pioneer free air unit. Good to know it sounds good and thanks for the writeup .

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings ahhhudi's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Pioneer Premier . Nice write up.

    Current: 2015 B8.5 S4 - Sepang Blue
    Previous: 2005 B6 S4 - Dolphin Grey and 2001 B5 S4 - Black.



    How Many Speeding Tickets? Vote.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings serumk's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    This is great work. = )

  12. #12
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Thanks for the great contribution!

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings GotRS?'s Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Quote Originally Posted by TypeRx View Post
    Nice writeup -- why did you use the aux power/cigarette lighter wiring for the +12V connection? Or did i just read wrong? I would personally use 8 awg wiring directly to the battery.
    It's the obvious way to connect direct to the battery and I thunk hard about it, but there's not an easy way to connect on the RS battery, no aux connections. I didn't want to drill it. I'm sure there's a way but there was the aux power cable just staring at me!

    edit: I should add this to the writeup
    Last edited by GotRS?; 08-20-2009 at 10:45 AM. Reason: extra

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings duvinclunk's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Fantastic write up. Thanks.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    THanks for the write-up, book marked :). Relatively spkeaing super cheap mod too! In my ase, I have an after market HU ad have totally been wanted to do this anyway so that I could leverage the sub output tuning, totally looking forward to doing this(cept I have to run RCA's all the way up to the HU, THAT is gonna be fun...). I will probably use the battery for the +12V though, and run the remote turn on from the HU since I have to run RCAs anyway, using the lead from the aux to run an amp would make me nervous, that is a lot of power... and dunno what that circuit is rated to handle amperage wise (although I guess if it has been running a year and you haven't blown fuses or melted anything, I guess it is OK ;)).

    I also like Premier... and for subs I am also a fan of JL Audio, Focal, MBQ, Eclipse, maybe a couple of others(each time sub depended on what I needed, how much space I had, power, SPL vs. SQ requirements, etc.). I dunno what the shallow mount sub offerins are now adays, but I am going to look now that i see how easy this is, and just curious if you considered other brands and decided on the Pio for a particular reason.

  16. #16
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Very well done! Thanks for the info man!

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    FYI, here is a review comparing 3 8" (including the Pio) running IB. Looks like so far u picked the right speaker, and don't ahve too much power because the Pio needs it, plus given lack of cooling better to buy an amp that has plenty of headroom vs. driving it to the max where the heatsink area cannot keep up :).

    This guy says that the Pio's aren't that great, in that they are the best down low, but so not great for midbass, which is bad for his in door application, but imkaes the Pio's PERFECT for a rear deck IB situation where you want the lowest freqs to come from farther away to maximize directional neutrality, and you really DON'T want midbass fill back there to f' up the imaging...

    http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...llow-tall.html

    will post more if I find any.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings GotRS?'s Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Crafty, I saw that report after I'd finished, choice was more luck than judgement, a local audio shop recommended it. You're right, I did do this a while ago, hope I remembered everything! That amp is only cruising for this speaker true.

    Thanks for the props folks, nice for me to give something back

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings whartung's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Quote Originally Posted by GotRS? View Post
    ... R32's are AWD, but its on a 2wd dyno...?
    2005.5 Sprint Blue Pearl Audi S4 Sedan 6MT
    Corsa w/ 12" Resonators - Vogt GT's - Trexturk Catless Downpipes - JHM Tuned - JHM SS - JHM Intake Spacers - JHM/Apikol Rear Differential Mount - JHM LWCP - K&N - RS4 Sway - Blackout Grille - ClearCornered and Blackedout Headlights - Xeonmatch - ECS Snub

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings GotRS?'s Avatar
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    Re: Replacing stock sub woofer - DIY

    Quote Originally Posted by whartung View Post
    ... R32's are AWD, but its on a 2wd dyno...?
    Listen again, "rear haldex disconnected", you unplug the wire to the electric clutch for the diff. They run 2WD 99.9% of the time anyway.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings hbodo08's Avatar
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    Re: B6/B7 S4/A4 DIY: Replacing stock sub woofer

    i got a question does your car alarm still chirp when you lock you car after u did this
    I drive it like i stole it , then again

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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings GotRS?'s Avatar
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    Re: B6/B7 S4/A4 DIY: Replacing stock sub woofer

    Yes it does. Curious why that could possibly be a problem?
    ...

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings iconoclast's Avatar
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    Re: B6/B7 S4/A4 DIY: Replacing stock sub woofer

    awesome write-up... curious if you had to insulate the parcel shelf after you installed the new speakers... with the added bass did it cause rattles or vibrations in the cabin or trunk?

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings monty2982's Avatar
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    Re: B6/B7 S4/A4 DIY: Replacing stock sub woofer

    So where do the RCA's from the amp hook up to? Are you using a stock HU? Nice DIY by the way.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Re: B6/B7 S4/A4 DIY: Replacing stock sub woofer

    Quote Originally Posted by monty2982 View Post
    So where do the RCA's from the amp hook up to? Are you using a stock HU? Nice DIY by the way.
    No RCA's used, no line level input for this DIY, he used the speaker level input that was originally going to the factory sub to feed the signal to the amp (makes things alot easier):

    Early stages of fitting. You will need to get the speaker signal from the original connector you took off up by the speaker. Extend that wire pair down to the amp speaker-level input.

  26. #26
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Great Write-Up!

    I have a B7 Non-Bose unit with an RNS-E (Originally Symphony II). I was thinking about adding the Pioneer Sub, but I wanted to see if it was possible to use the existing wiring and power to drive the new sub without installing an amp? I will probably install an amp sometime in the future, I just wanted to see if it was possible to only replace the sub for now and worry about the amp at a later time.

    Thanks for your help.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Two Rings dtrizzo's Avatar
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    I thought about doing that too, but I just ended up putting a pioneer shallow 12" sub in my trunk, and I mounted the amp underneath the flooring under where the styrofoam is (so it's "underground"). Pretty simple seeing as the battery is in the trunk anyway. it's all removable so no harm, no foul. Good luck!

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Resurrecting this ** anyone installed a new sub but powered it off the Bose amp instead?
    now: 2011.5 BMW M3 sedan ZCP
    past: 2005 Audi S4 sedan, 2011 Audi S4 sedan

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings WinterRunner's Avatar
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    That would be nice ^^^^
    09' R8 Daytona/CF 4.2 V8
    ~Avior exhaust & black tips~LEDs~10mm Spulen spacers~OEM euro mirrors~CF S-wheel~
    ~FeynLab ceramic~Xpel'd~35%Tints~Black rings/grille~3 pedals~No questions asked~

    Past:
    08' Daytona/Ti RS4 (dearly missed)
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    My fear is more that the stock sub is very low power or has very low impedance...and that the Bose amp wouldn't be able to drive an aftermarket one safely.
    now: 2011.5 BMW M3 sedan ZCP
    past: 2005 Audi S4 sedan, 2011 Audi S4 sedan

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings WinterRunner's Avatar
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    Any way to confirm this or is that just speculation? There must me some specs on paper about the stock amp.....
    09' R8 Daytona/CF 4.2 V8
    ~Avior exhaust & black tips~LEDs~10mm Spulen spacers~OEM euro mirrors~CF S-wheel~
    ~FeynLab ceramic~Xpel'd~35%Tints~Black rings/grille~3 pedals~No questions asked~

    Past:
    08' Daytona/Ti RS4 (dearly missed)
    05.5' Dolphin S4

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Historically Bose speakers have been very low impedance. The woofer might have some specs printed on it, if you feel like taking a look.
    now: 2011.5 BMW M3 sedan ZCP
    past: 2005 Audi S4 sedan, 2011 Audi S4 sedan

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings Club Cheetah's Avatar
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    Just bought the sub for 85 bucks online. We'll see how the rest goes. I'm gonna "attempt" going off the stock amp but I wouldn't be surprised if it no workie.

    My only question is with that amp. I am not audiophile by any means and am wondering if a 1000w peak is too much for that sub. Would a lower powered amp be better?

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    I'd worry more about the RMS rating. The worst thing you can do is UNDERPOWER it.

    Post up when you've made some progress. My biggest gripe with the stock sub is how boomy it is ** it isn't accurate or punchy at all.
    now: 2011.5 BMW M3 sedan ZCP
    past: 2005 Audi S4 sedan, 2011 Audi S4 sedan

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings Club Cheetah's Avatar
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    Well I took the old one out and put the new one in last night. Overall without an aftermarket amp it sounds weak obviously. It works and sounds more accurate and less muddy than before.

    I also had to amend the installation a little because I couldn't get the speaker to sit inside the stock housing like GotRS did. I actually followed his directions and ended up screwing the speaker to the bottom of the stock housing.

    Thanks Audi




    All done

  36. #36
    Established Member Two Rings jackp311's Avatar
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    What was your issue / worry with clearance? Was it sliding it back in (mounting depth) or size of woofer (cutout hole)?

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings Club Cheetah's Avatar
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    Clearance was the sub wouldn't fit inside the rings and close. I just screwed it together and that was that.

  38. #38
    Established Member Two Rings jackp311's Avatar
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    Was there adequate room to slide the woofer back in? In other words, do you have to use a shallow mount woofer for this? Or would a normal free air 8" work?

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings Club Cheetah's Avatar
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    I used the Pioneer one listed above. It was a pretty tight fit and I didn't want a great loss of trunk space. It seemed to go in pretty quick and sounds good using the free air shallow mount sub.

  40. #40
    Established Member Two Rings jpo's Avatar
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    Club cheetah, this may be a stupid question but did you just splice the wires to the original speaker wires? Obviously I am not super savvy when it comes to audio installs.
    2004 Moro Blue S4 MT

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