Biketsai's DIY Auto-to-Manual Conversion

[biketsai]

*Update- 6 years later- May 17th 2015.

The clutch finally started to slip (likely caused by me not fixing a rear coolant flange leak) and the slave cylinder went as well (I shouldve use a new one at the time).
Pulled the transmission to replace it again with another FX400 and everything seemed to be just intact the way I left it. The pilot bearing was in the exact same spot and seemed like it was stuck in the flywheel pretty good after all the time of debris/random shit getting inbetween the 2 surfaces. Replaced the pilot bearing without another one from Zorkos although the original one seemed to be just perfect still.

summary- replaced clutch after 6 years, pilot bearing method seemed to have no problem.




Is this plate worn all the way?

[audinutt]

Nice update!

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[wolfman114]

Chris, that friction plate/ clutch disc is definitely not worn 100% yet.
Usually they start to really slip, you pull it apart, and you are rubbing on the rivets...
Glad you got 6 yrs out of it!!!
Good clutch, flywheel will need a nice scuff since its glazed
You ever have a problem with the plastic bleeder screw on the slave cylinder?

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[biketsai]

Sounds like my failing slave cylinder + coolant leaking on my transmission probably caused this to happen. 6 Years and 40k miles.

I got my flywheel resurfaced and a new clutch altogether. I have not had problems with the bleeder screw.

Chris, that friction plate/ clutch disc is definitely not worn 100% yet.
Usually they start to really slip, you pull it apart, and you are rubbing on the rivets...
Glad you got 6 yrs out of it!!!
Good clutch, flywheel will need a nice scuff since its glazed
You ever have a problem with the plastic bleeder screw on the slave cylinder?

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[crazexr7]

Not sure if this was in the diy or not. But am wondering can I cut the old auto trans wires and tcm harness and heat shrink the wires and get rid of excess wire and the tcm box and not have any issues?

[Spectre1130]

Not sure if this was in the diy or not. But am wondering can I cut the old auto trans wires and tcm harness and heat shrink the wires and get rid of excess wire and the tcm box and not have any issues?

I just cut mine off, and removed the TCU. I didn't remove all the wires.

[down_n_dapper]

Day 2/3

Afterwards take off the clips that hold the rod for the brake pedal, insert the new rod and put the assembly in without the clutch pedal in. This section will all make a lot more sense once you get in there. I bolted the clutch master cylinder first to the bracket. Remember that you must use the new longer push rod for the pedal and clutch pedal. Once you have the assembly in the car, you can then clip the hardline to the clutch master cylinder (there is a grommet you must remove for that spot). Then get your vac hose for the clutch master cylinder to the brake reservoir and connect it all (on the reservoir just cut off the closed end). Afterwards just install everything back.

Pedals in:

Sorry to bump your thread but reading through this before manual swapping :) Been a really useful thread thank you!

Just wondering what you mean by longer push rod?

Cheers!

[Col Sanders]

The longer rod he is talking about is the one that holds the brake & clutch pedal in. When you remove the brake pedal there is a rod that has clips on each in, ( it is the rod that the pedal pivots on) remove one clip from the rod and push it out. Your new rod will be much longer because it holds both pedals in. A little tip to remove the brake push rod from the booster. Remove bolts and lines etc. from brake booster, pull it back a little bit, then go back under and see the rod, Take a 3/4 wrench and 17 mm one. back off the large nut a little, its a lock nut for the ball rod that goes into pedal. Un thread the ball rod and the pedal will come out or fall off. When its out, lay pedal rod face up and use 2 small blade screw drivers and press in the plastic clips on the side of the ball rod, out she comes. Hope this is just as clear as mud.

[Blake260]

Bumping an oldie but goody. I followed this procedure when I swapped my 1.8TQ auto to an O1E 6-speed. Used the same alternator bearing in a AASCO LWFW with a southbend stg 5 clutch and have put about 40K over the past two years on it. NO PROBLEMS! Not a single problem related to the driveline. Plenty of problems with the rest of the car tho lol.

[bruejones]

I looked up on ebay some of the parts like the rear driveshaft and the cheapest one was $300...the transmission was $200...what the heck? I was unable to find a 3.89 ratio rearend though...looks like im sticking with the TIP for now :(

[down_n_dapper]

I looked up on ebay some of the parts like the rear driveshaft and the cheapest one was $300...the transmission was $200...what the heck? I was unable to find a 3.89 ratio rearend though...looks like im sticking with the TIP for now :(

There's your problem. eBay is not the chepsest for second hand, bikestai sourced his parts from wreckers like most do and found good deals

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[bruejones]

I just saw this car that was swapped on Facebook for sale...its in Iowa

[kristian1909]

This tread helped alot when I swaped my tip to a 6speed 01e. I think the 6speed was esier because you don't have to swap the rear diff and subframe/custom gearbox mount?
Great tread though! :D

[bruejones]

I know this is an old thread But did he change the rear end

[walky_talky20]

According to this For Sale thread on VWVortex, yes, he did swap the rear differential to the correct 3.889:1 ratio to match his 5MT 01A transmission. From memory of a conversation with him *way back*, I think he only ran the incorrect auto rear diff for a very short time before completing the swap. Nothing exploded, and the car drove ok, but it will wear the center torsen differential long term unless you correctly match the rear end.

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Rear-Diff-DAK

[DaytonCarCare]

*Update- 6 years later- May 17th 2015.

The clutch finally started to slip (likely caused by me not fixing a rear coolant flange leak) and the slave cylinder went as well (I shouldve use a new one at the time).
Pulled the transmission to replace it again with another FX400 and everything seemed to be just intact the way I left it. The pilot bearing was in the exact same spot and seemed like it was stuck in the flywheel pretty good after all the time of debris/random shit getting inbetween the 2 surfaces. Replaced the pilot bearing without another one from Zorkos although the original one seemed to be just perfect still.

summary- replaced clutch after 6 years, pilot bearing method seemed to have no problem.

I'll be doing this conversion soon to my 99 1.8t so will probably have questions. I have a 99 1.8t parts car for manual parts, but will I need a drivers side mount from a 2.8 to apply to the automatic car to make the manual trans fit?

[Gearbox]

I'll be doing this conversion soon to my 99 1.8t so will probably have questions. I have a 99 1.8t parts car for manual parts, but will I need a drivers side mount from a 2.8 to apply to the automatic car to make the manual trans fit?

Yes, that is the simplest way for most so that you can keep the same subframe. The other solution is swaping the subframe from a manual 1.8T which you seem to have.

The only other part to make the swap a "bolt-in" is using the adapter to convert the tip crank to accept the pilot bearing that I manufacture:
1.8T-Tiptronic-to-Manual-Pilot-Bearing-Adapter

If you need the 2.8 LH bracket and/or adapter, I can provide both.

[DaytonCarCare]

Yes, that is the simplest way for most so that you can keep the same subframe. The other solution is swaping the subframe from a manual 1.8T which you seem to have.

The only other part to make the swap a "bolt-in" is using the adapter to convert the tip crank to accept the pilot bearing that I manufacture:
1.8T-Tiptronic-to-Manual-Pilot-Bearing-Adapter

If you need the 2.8 LH bracket and/or adapter, I can provide both.

Wow can't believe it's been 6 months already and still haven't gotten this done. Debating whether or not to swap the sub frame. So far just took out the drive line components for the swap and also the pedals, slave cylinder and line from the manual parts car. Have the same removed from auto car but still on jack stands ready to drop the auto trans. I'm reluctant because it's colder outside and the trans is super heavy but eventually will get to it. I did find someone that sell an aluminum adapter to fit into the auto trans crank for the pilot bearing so manual trans fits correctly and he has the driver side V6 bracket I need so with probably order as a package.

[DaytonCarCare]

Last 2 days
Torque specs for the next steps (they may differ depending on your setup)
-FW-60ft lbs (non stretch bolts)
-Pressure plate- 14ft lbs
-......

I was reading in my repair manual that the specs for the FW is 44 Ft lbs and PP is 18 Ft lbs just FYI for future reference. I'm about halfway done. Dropped the trans, mounted the pedals, lines, cylinders, FW and clutch, and shift linkage, so getting there

[DaytonCarCare]

I was reading in my repair manual that the specs for the FW is 44 Ft lbs and PP is 18 Ft lbs just FYI for future reference. I'm about halfway done. Dropped the trans, mounted the pedals, lines, cylinders, FW and clutch, and shift linkage, so getting there

Recently finished mine. I know about recoding the ECU from auto to manual with software to get rid of CEL for missing TCU, but is there another way? Possibly run a jumper from ground to a pin or wire on the TCU harness. I don't have the software easily available is the reason I ask.

[DJ GLO]

I just finished my swap too! Thanks for this amazing thread :)

However, when I'm driving in-gear, there is a rotational rattle / scraping sound that that appears to be coming from the bell housing. I started a thread about it here if anyone is able to help:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...er-manual-swap