Biketsai's DIY Auto-to-Manual Conversion

[biketsai]

First off Id like to say thanks to zrowcool and werewolves182 for paving the way with information and the most important, inspiration! I got lots of help from werewolves182 as well as other members allowing me to compile a solid parts list and procedure.
[B]Status: Finished
SEE Page 6 or post # 201 for the update 6 years later![/B]
Picture and information will be added frequently.
I will be replacing the automatic transmission found in my 2001 Audi A4 1.8T AWM with a manual transmission from a 2000 5spd 1.8T A4.
I will try to make this thread as DIY'like as possible, including random things needed/procedures. This thread will contain information pertaining to the swap and it will serve as a reference. Me and others will be adding more information as things progress.
The swap will take place in my garage with jackstands and NO LIFT! The transmission will just be dropped out with nothing else. The subframe will be lowered so an alignment is recommended afterward. I had all parts together in about 2 weeks.

***UPDATE: After you finish the swap, here is the DIY for making your cruise control work!!
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Swap-%28DBW%29
Reverse light DIY
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...a-5-speed-swap


-First off im throwing this out there to put some more emphasis on how important this is! Put the battery to starter wires on the correct post, which is the post with the 13mm nut, and the plastic spacer behind, it WILL start a fire if you try to put your battery on with the cable on the 8mm post. Ask me how I know ;)

-To address the commonly known pilot bearing issue and where it might go, an alternator bearing will be placed inside the flywheel to act as a pilot bearing for the input shaft. This bearing has an outer diameter of 43mm and inner diameter of 15mm.For the bearing to fit, the end of the crank will be shaved down 4mm. This can be purchased from www.zorkos.com , PN#A-6941

The 06A and 058 blocks have the same pilot bearing solution. Both cranks look the same on the end it terms of how and where the pilot bearing is mounted and the pilot bearing has the same part number. It works because all flywheels for the 1.8t are made to fit over the existing protrusion from the rear of the crank which is 43mm.

-You will utilize the stock automatic transmission mounts, but a 2.8 drivers side transmission bracket is necessary. (PN# 8D0399113AG) Be sure to also get a transmission bracket for the passenger side from a manual car as well.

-While the transmission is out, things that should be replaced are...
*Rear crankshaft(main) seal-(germanautoparts.com)
*(6) Driveshaft to transmission bolts

-I would recommend buying the JHM $40 linkage upgrade to make installation easier.

-The items that you will be not changing but that are still utilized.
*Brake fluid reservoir
*Master Cylinder
*Starter
*Gas pedal/pedal bracket


-The B5 has a mounting spot for every part being added on (pedals, clutch master cylinder). As for the vacuum line that is needed from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch master cylinder, there is a crimped nipple on the side of the reservoir that will be cut open to run the line from that to the other cylinder.

-You can keep your stock cluster, but you need to recode it and your ECU for a manual or else you will have fault codes.

-Most items purchased came from a junked car, germanautoparts.com , summitracing.com, Harbor Freight tools, local dealership

Threads to reference:

*** Another 5spd swap for more info. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420732

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271678
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294554
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...tml&category=1
http://www.audigeeks.com/forums/index.php?topic=94.0
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2964519/2 (thanks djwimbo)
http://audi-diy.blogspot.com/2007_10_28_archive.html (halfway down)

Parts acquired:
-$450 Complete 1.8t 5spd transmission
-$75 Shifter box with knob and shifter surround
-Clutch hardline that runs from the clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder
-$50 Brake/Clutch Pedal
- Slave cylinder
- Clutch master cylinder
-$50 5spd driveshaft
-$140 (2) CV Axles for a manual transmission (I just picked up some 2.8 ones since I am 2001 MY)
-$950 Clutchmasters FX400 clutch with steel LWFW (Ringer-racing.com)
*(New flywheel/pressure plate bolts needed)
-$60 2.8 Drivers side transmission bracket (dealership) PN# 8D0399113AG
-$60 Passenger side transmission bracket from 5spd car
-$5 (6) Driveshaft to bellhousing bolts (dealer)
-$40 Rear crankshaft seal (germanautoparts)
-$19 Pilot Bearing from www.zorkos.com PN#A-6941
-$2 Two Feet of 5/16th Vac Hose for pedal-brake reservoir line




Tools:
-Transmission Jack
-2' Jack stands
-Jack
-12pt. bolt set for the CV axles
-17mm 12pt. socket for automatic flywheel bolts
-T45 Torx socket to remove brake reservoir/thing behind it to access room for the clutch hardline
-T55 Torx for Torque Converter
-Torx Bit set
-Clutch alignment tool (comes with clutch)
-$25 17mm Allen/12pt Drain tool-http://www.germanautoparts.com/Audi/A4/Transmission/251/1
-Various sockets, extensions, allens, wrenches
-Impact wrench, air ratchet
-Torque wrench
-Angle Grinder
-Power bleeder (not necessary)
-Pump for trans fluid to go into the housing
-Drain pan


Fluid:
-$12 1 liter can of Ate Type 200 Dot 4 brake fluid
-$30 3 qts of Redline MT90
-$10 1 qt of Redline Heavy Shockproof
-Moly grease for input shaft
-CV grease for CV contacts and driveshaft
-Brake cleaner
-Blue loctite

My total cost of parts came out to around $2000









^^Shifter linkage, held on with one small bolt for the shaft, and the other is held in with an allen bolt

^^Shifter Box, held in by 6 nuts

^^Hardline, connects slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder (behind pedal), goes through false firewall bottom

^^Clutch Master Cylinder, picture shows hose going to brake reservoir and the hole for the hardline

^^Manual brake pedal and clutch, both held in by a bolt that has clips on the end

[biketsai]

Day 1:
Started off this morning at around 11am, finished this evening with dropping the auto trans. For the process, it is not too much different from the manual transmission drop. I may miss a couple steps but im sure those steps are covered in a manual transmission removal DIY, but ill try to fill ya in on what ya need to know!

1. Got the car on jackstands slowly taking my time. Me under the car in this picture


2. Remove exhaust, it will help if you remove everything from the turbo to the end of the driveshaft .

3. Remove pinch bolt, disconnect CV axles completely with 17mm Allen and then 6 triple square bolts on the inside. Then remove the heatshield over the CV axles.


4. Remove driveshaft bolts, 6 on each end, 2 in the middle (must make sure you mark the spot for those). It helped to have a friend pull the E-brake for me to freely spin the DS inbetween.


5. Remove lower control arm closest to the rear of the car, then disconnect the 3 bolts holding the subframe on each side.


6. Remove the few bolts holding the starter in on the passenger side of the transmission, you must do this to reveal the flex plate bolts (3 in a triangle pattern). When it is time to remove those, have a friend spin the flywheel with a flathead underneath the car and have them hold it there while you unbolt the T55 bolts.


7. Then remove the transmission mounts, starting with the middle bolts, then 2 on the side. Then disconnect 3 electrical plugs, and also disconnect the lines where the hoses meet the radiator for the tranny fluid. Remember to unbolt the mount holding the rubber hoses to the car, those stopped me when I tried to pull the trans. Start removing bolts around the bell housing, you are going to have to find these on your own, but you should easily be able to see it all with the exhaust removed, the air cleaner out, coolant tank out, and CV axles out.

8. I managed to be able to get a wrench through the side wheel well to access all of the top/side bolts. After all bolts are removed, you will start to disconnect transmission slowly prying it off with a transmission jack underneath. You will have to figure out some way to push down the subframe and then lift/pull/lower/pull ETC ETC. It stumped us when we got here but we somehow managed with magical powers. Be patient and be careful, it will come out somehow!



9. I decided to disconnect the shifter cable after I lowered the transmission, it just pops off. Tomorrow im going to go and remove the center console to get the shifter box out (4 bolts)

10. After the trans is pulled, you will have to unbolt the 6 flexplate bolts with a 17mm 12pt socket, I wedged something inbetween the wheel and the engine to prevent it from moving. After you do this, you will have to pull the flexplate off, BE VERY CAREFUL, I almost lost an eye with it popping off.


One thing I am wondering is if I need to just make this area flush, you can see the crank protruding. Guess ill find out tomorrow


I might have missed a thing or two, but it will seem clearer once you start.

My friend Brian who helped me out tons!! also thanks Eric and Evan for heading out:


soap soap soap, tons of it at the end of the day
day 1/


*End of day questions
-Will I reuse my automatic transmission to bellhousing bolts? or use the new manual ones?
Edit: Turns out that they are the same.

[biketsai]

Day 2/3
Turns out that one of my transmission brackets didnt come in on Friday as planned, so I have this weekend to wait till Monday for me to put the transmission in. In the mean time I did everything else needed to be done, basically all of the stuff that the auto cars dont have.



First I kinda removed the shifter assembly, it was a pain. You need to remove the center console to make it easier. I managed to remove the shifter box with some tearing apart and managed to get a 13mm socket into the F/R bolts for the shifter box. Lets just say I got pissed and then it all worked out! Now you can see the other stuff that you will need to put aside, you wont need that rod or the connectors anymore.





After that I went to remove the master cylinder and the brake booster. Prepare for fluid to be spilled everywhere, but it will go out through the firewall area onto the ground. To remove the reservoir, there is one 10mm bolt, one connector, then yank it out. The other side is just pushed in. Then proceed with removing the 2 brake lines on the master cylinder. Afterwards you should then start to remove the 21mm nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster, you wont be able to remove the cylinder until you remove the booster. So after you get those nuts, there are 2 T45 bolts holding in the booster to the firewall. Remove those and on the harder side, I used vicegrips since there is no room for a wrench. Then go behind the dash and unbolt the pedal.



With this all removed you can then install the hardline through the grommet under the booster.






^^^This is the clip that goes behind the clutch pedal. In order to put the pedals in, you should remove the pedal assembly, held in by one 6mm allen.



Afterwards take off the clips that hold the rod for the brake pedal, insert the new rod and put the assembly in without the clutch pedal in. This section will all make a lot more sense once you get in there. I bolted the clutch master cylinder first to the bracket. Remember that you must use the new longer push rod for the pedal and clutch pedal. Once you have the assembly in the car, you can then clip the hardline to the clutch master cylinder (there is a grommet you must remove for that spot). Then get your vac hose for the clutch master cylinder to the brake reservoir and connect it all (on the reservoir just cut off the closed end). Afterwards just install everything back.

Pedals in:



Time to shave off the crank. You should leave about 2mm left sticking out on the crank. I used a 2mm allen wrench to measure. To prevent myself from overdoing the grinding, I left in 2 spacers that were originally there (about 2mm) to get things perfect. These spacers were there from the stock flexplate, you can combine two to make about 2-3mm on the crank to keep as a safety buffer. Just take this procedure slowly and get things nice and even, it doesnt have to be perfect:
*I actually had enough room to sit sitting up in there.



Here is the FW held on by one bolt with the bearing in.



At the end of the day, I felt pretty good about grinding the crank down. I was very skeptical at first but it was a whole lot easier than I had ever imagined. Just saying for all those who think its sketchy.
end/

[biketsai]

Last 2 days
Torque specs for the next steps (they may differ depending on your setup)
-FW-60ft lbs (non stretch bolts)
-Pressure plate- 14ft lbs
-Transmission bracket- 30ft lbs
-Drain plug 26ft lbs
-Fill plug 18ft lbs
-Transmission mount center bolt-30ft lb
-Trans mount side bolts (2)-17 ft lb


First thing I did was bolt down the Flywheel, using non-stretch bolts with loctite they were torqued down as well as the pressure plate afterwards. Tighten these bolts slowly, snug first and then go in a star pattern to bolt them down. I used a bolt and chain and a screwdriver wedged inbetween by block.



With the manual trans still out, I drained it keeping the transmission level using another jack on the back, I also swapped the throwout bearing at this time and lightly gave it some grease (pic from a4mods.com) I poured in 1/4 quart of Heavy Shockproof and filled the rest 2qts+ with Redline MT90. Torque down the drain/fill plugs. At this point, transmission is on the jack and ready to go in!





Line up the transmission as close as you can without hitting the pressure plate fingers and slowly get the input shaft in. I used bolts to guide the trans into the right angle and direction. Once you get close enough, put some bolts on and start tightening them around evenly so the transmission mates up to the block. This diagram should help you out.




Once the transmission is in, you can start to raise the subframe back up, and bolt down the transmission mounts starting at the outer 2 ones. I would allow your transmission to have all its weight down when your torque things down. Around the same time, mount up the subframe brackets and bolt them down. It helps to have a friend/jack hold the subframe up while you tighten bolts down. After you do this, put the lower control arm back in.



Now its time for CV joints- driveshaft, front axles. I tried to torque down my driveshaft, but one of my bolts just stripped when I tried. Remember to wipe out the old grease and put in the new CV grease. On the center driveshaft bolts, remember that they have to be in the same EXACT spot! Around the same time, get the shifter linkage in. It will be tough getting the allen key into the linkage, it will just take some time. Shifter linkage, I believe its a 10mm bolt.







I was lucky enough to have a pressure bleeder and I bled the lines in this order- Pass R, Driver R, Pass F, Driver F, slave cylinder. 1 liter of fluid was enough for me.



Transmission in!!



When you go to bolt in the starter bolts, MAKE SURE you do it on the right post. The 2 bigger positive cables MUST go on the 13mm post that has the plastic spacer behind it. DO NOT, DO NOT put those wires on the posts that have the 8mm post. Attach the spade connector wire as well. I learned the hard way when I went to put my battery on that you should not do this. My positive battery cable caught fire in 3 places and well, burned through all of the insulation. It didnt do any other damage than that so I just wrapped everything in electric tape. Luckily the water hose wasnt too far off but there was smoke everywhere, I almost thought I was going to lose my car and my girlfriends house.




Here is the park relay you have to modify. It is located under the dash right above your 75x posts. You must remove the relay on spot #13, and jump the wires with spade connectors with a wire soldered inbetween on the horizontal spots. Your relay may not be numbered 53, but it must be in spot #13. You also need to pull the TCU computer out. Its located in front of the passenger seat under the carpet. Take off one panel held on by phillips and then pop the side bottom trim off with a flathead. Youll have to lift the carpet up, remove the box and remove the TCU.





Exhaust back on, intake, upper control arms lower the car, torque down wheels, ready to go! When you go to put the battery cable back on, be sure to watch it carefully and be ready to remove it in case anything starts smoking or burning, if I had reacted quicker the fire may not have started.




Car all together and one happy camper!




All in all, the swap was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. The worst part was just getting the auto trans out and even that wasnt too bad. On the initial startup everything seemed fine. You wont have a clutch pedal sensor so just make sure you dont start the car in first without your foot on the clutch ahead of time. My car ran on both auto and manual coding for the ECU, you shouldnt get codes once you have it on manual. The website that helped the most was the DIY (posted on top) on A4mods.com for the clutch install. It took me from Friday to Tuesday, with nothing done on the weekends because I did not have a bracket, just to give you an idea of the time frame.

Id like to thank all of the people that came through and helped out, Eric (eakrob), Aaron (aaronamerica), Evan, Brian, Josh, Paul (PZ.) and Tom (VRSIX) for tools/equipment, last but NO WHERE near least goes to Tim (werewolves) for helping me out when I was freaking out/stuck and when my car was on fire! The people that helped make this whole operation possible and that I cannot thank enough is my girlfriend Carly and her parents for letting me use their garage for the past couple of days!

*I think everything is mostly there, if there is any info that is very useful I will update this as needed.

Time for...


Before/After

Before:
Well leading up to the build I was pretty worried that this was going to be a huge job. Many people gave me that doubted "good luck", which just made me worry a little more. Another concern I had was grinding the crank down, thats a pretty important piece to mess up as well! I knew the job could be done, but for some reason I just did not feel 100% assured. Ive only helped pull one Camaro transmission before which didnt really help towards this job. That just goes to show that you dont have to have any special skills, all you need is some good logical thinking.

After:
I never knew how important fire safety was until I had this incident, never did I think I could be capable of causing something like that. My first impression throughout the job was that I thought to myself, "thats it"? The swap was no where near as bad as I thought It would have been. I guess all the worrying made me feel like everything was easier in the end. Grinding the crank down was no where near as hard as I thought, it was actually pretty easy (just use those spacers!). I feel a whole lot better about my car altogether, it is now everything that I could have ever wanted. Now I dont have a transmission barrier so next year I will be going with a BAT of some sort! The car feels pretty good, I have not had any issues so far (knock on wood). Everyone that has driven my car says that it feels pretty good as far as all the mechanics go. I have never owned a manual car, only driven friends cars so this has taken some getting used to. I just a tad more practice and 500-1000 miles and ill be ready to rip it up!!

Today (8/8/09) I went to my GFs house and I had a gift waiting for me!

This thing supposedly lasts 4x longer than most extinguishers and is a whole lot smaller, ill be keeping this in my car.

[audiluxary]

Wow, you are realy doing this. Good luck

[Amorphic]

wish you luck. I jumped the gun on getting a tip instead of waiting for a 5sp and i still hate myself sometimes lol. black on black 5sps are impossible to find in my area, had to settle for auto. :(

[Famou$ Nick]

Good luck again crazy man!

[eakrob]

You are going to love 5 speed.

[aaronamerica]

I will help as much as I can

[Calabria]

Why not upgrade to a B5 S4 6spd...Isnt the 2.8 5spd a little different from the 1.8t as well, longer gears?

[ghost6303]

longer gears make a 1.8t fall in and out of the powerband when shifting.


you reserved 4 posts in a row, now you have to fill them. or else...
looks good though, i know a ton of people will find this useful. you know how many times people make 'how hard is an auto to manual swap?' thread.

[Euro-Tuner]

curious to know if the pilot bearing is the same.

[zrowcool]

many thanks for the shoutout... pm me if you have any questions pop up or you can call me if you still have my number.

[biketsai]

many thanks for the shoutout... pm me if you have any questions pop up or you can call me if you still have my number.

think I lost your number, heading to the yard in about 45 mins to pick some items up too! PM me

[biketsai]

curious to know if the pilot bearing is the same.

same as?

longer gears make a 1.8t fall in and out of the powerband when shifting.


you reserved 4 posts in a row, now you have to fill them. or else...
looks good though, i know a ton of people will find this useful. you know how many times people make 'how hard is an auto to manual swap?' thread.

Yea I just figured if I am going to get A LOT of pictures, they all wont fit in one post because there is like a limit. I want this thread to be something people can easily reference.

[lowandslow4now]

Good luck. Your write up looks very detailed oriented I am looking forward to see how this comes out.

[mike-2ptzero]

Why not upgrade to a B5 S4 6spd...Isnt the 2.8 5spd a little different from the 1.8t as well, longer gears?

The B5 S4 6 speed has a horrible 2nd gear ratio, it drops way too much for a 1.8t setup. The 2.8 5 speed is a good choice if the car is only used as a daily driver and most of that on the fwy.


Taller gears tends to mean more time spent getting thru the gear and this means slower acceleration.

[Seerlah]

Will be keeping an eye on this thread as it progresses. Good luck Biketsai. We all know how Murphy's law likes to stick it's face around the corner with these cars.

[werewolves182]

The B5 S4 6 speed has a horrible 2nd gear ratio, it drops way too much for a 1.8t setup. The 2.8 5 speed is a good choice if the car is only used as a daily driver and most of that on the fwy.


Taller gears tends to mean more time spent getting thru the gear and this means slower acceleration.

Just like you said, I was under the impression the 2.8 manual trans had taller gears then the 1.8. This is why I used it when I converted to manual. Are the gears only taller when paired to the 1.8 manual rear differential through? I used the trans and rear end from a 2.8 for my swap and have noticed 5th gear at 80mph sits around 3600rpm.

[werewolves182]

curious to know if the pilot bearing is the same.

The pilot bearing used is not actually a pilot bearing per say, its an alternator bearing that I found to have the exact inner and outer dimensions (15id, 43od) needed to be used as a pilot bearing that is retained by the flywheel. This overcomes the previous issue with the different cranks.

[mike-2ptzero]

Just like you said, I was under the impression the 2.8 manual trans had taller gears then the 1.8. This is why I used it when I converted to manual. Are the gears only taller when paired to the 1.8 manual rear differential through? I used the trans and rear end from a 2.8 for my swap and have noticed 5th gear at 80mph sits around 3600rpm.

Yes the 2.8 has taller gearing and the 2.8 manual uses the same 3.889 rear end as the 1.8t manual. There is about a 400 rpm difference between the 2 at that speed in 5th gear.

[onemoremile]

Just like you said, I was under the impression the 2.8 manual trans had taller gears then the 1.8. This is why I used it when I converted to manual. Are the gears only taller when paired to the 1.8 manual rear differential through? I used the trans and rear end from a 2.8 for my swap and have noticed 5th gear at 80mph sits around 3600rpm.

The 2.8 gearing is approx 7-10% taller than the 1.8.

[AP-Specialties]

-$? Shifter box with knob and shifter surround
-$?Clutch hardline that runs from the clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder
-$? Brake/Clutch Pedal
-$?Slave cylinder
-$? Clutch master cylinder
-$? 5spd driveshaft
-$? (6) Driveshaft to bellhousing bolts (dealer)


"?" Indicates parts I still need to acquire

Give me a call Chris... I'll set you up with all that stuff (Phone # in sig)

[onemoremile]

80 mph drops from 3500 to 3300 rpm with the 2.8 trans swap. In the S4 it is 3050 rpm.


The gearing change does vary slightly with the 2.8 trans compared to the 1.8. For example, it is 12% taller in second, 10% taller in third, 9% taller in fourth, and 7% taller in fifth.


Mike mentioned the gear drop into second. That is usually ok with an S4 but a big turbo 1.8 can easily fall out of it's powerband. Shifting at 7200 drops the 1.8t trans to 4100 in second, the 2.8 trans to 4000, and the s4 trans to 3400. Even if you revved to 8 grand the s4 trans drops you to 4000 for second.

Outside of re-spooling a turbo, the place this matters is at the track. If a big turbo A4 is trapping 135 then the 1.8 trans is perfect. If it is going to trap over 140 then it might be better off with the taller trans. Of course, it will take the same percentage more torque to accelerate at the same rate in the taller gears. Same goes for time trialing. If I was banging off the limiter a second before the braking zones on both straights I need to either raise the limiter or get a little more gearing. If I was hitting the limiter towards the middle of the straight there is still time to push that next gear.

[mike-2ptzero]

If an A4 1.8t is going to be hitting 140 traps its going to be making power well above 8k and even at that point a 1.8 transmission is going to allow that car to trap those numbers.

Data I put together for a 1.8t transmission with the higher rev limiters

1.8t-01A for 4th gear
7500 rpm = 135 mph
8000 rpm = 143.3 mph
8200 rpm = 146.9 mph
8500 rpm = 152.3 mph

The B5 S4 4th gear hits 135 mph at 7500 rpm and the B6 S4 trans hits 135 mph at 8300 rpm since it has a very short 4th gear. Both have very tall 2nd gear.

What I look at is where in the power band the next gear lands, the difference on the 1.8 trans and the B5 S4 transmission is huge for my BAT setup.

Going into 2nd gear shifting at 8200 rpm
B5 1.8t 01A transmission = 330hp/350tq at the wheels
B5 S4 01E transmission = 220hp/280tq at the wheels
B4 80 01A transmission = 400hp/430tq at the wheels

Just shows what a huge difference a few hundred rpms will do on a BAT power band

[werewolves182]

Hmmm, given everything you have said about the gearing of the 2.8 trans, now ive got to figure out why im at 3600 in 5th at 80mph with my 2.8 trans and rear end.

[PZ.]

Good luck. Wish I was going to be around to help. It's a lot more fun on someone else's car. I will hit you up for leftover parts once I get back :)

Paul.

[biketsai]

Good luck. Wish I was going to be around to help. It's a lot more fun on someone else's car. I will hit you up for leftover parts once I get back :)

Paul.

I can't thank you enough for letting me borrow these tools! This thread should be progressing while you are out of town.

[Euro-Tuner]

so if I'm hitting 145 at 7200 rpm in 5th, whats wrong? WTF?!

[Blake260]

hmm 190 in and s4's 6th gear huh?

[BumbleBee]

very nice keep us updated. If you have questions let me know ive done this swap before, but your doing the pilot bearing a little different i see.

[geeky]

Will be keeping an eye on this thread as it progresses. Good luck Biketsai. We all know how Murphy's law likes to stick it's face around the corner with these cars.

x2

[mike-2ptzero]

so if I'm hitting 145 at 7200 rpm in 5th, whats wrong? WTF?!

That is normal and nearly ever person I know of with a A4 that tried to top out 5th gear by 7200 hit 145 mph. The numbers are not exact.


The site I uses shows 158 mph for 5th gear at 7200 rpm for the 1.8t 5 speed.
http://www.car-videos.net/tools/spee...B1=Recalculate

[MTMIII]

Hows the swap going???

Rob

[Militant-Grunt]

If an A4 1.8t is going to be hitting 140 traps its going to be making power well above 8k and even at that point a 1.8 transmission is going to allow that car to trap those numbers.

Data I put together for a 1.8t transmission with the higher rev limiters


The B5 S4 4th gear hits 135 mph at 7500 rpm and the B6 S4 trans hits 135 mph at 8300 rpm since it has a very short 4th gear. Both have very tall 2nd gear.

What I look at is where in the power band the next gear lands, the difference on the 1.8 trans and the B5 S4 transmission is huge for my BAT setup.

Going into 2nd gear shifting at 8200 rpm
B5 1.8t 01A transmission = 330hp/350tq at the wheels
B5 S4 01E transmission = 220hp/280tq at the wheels
B4 80 01A transmission = 400hp/430tq at the wheels

Just shows what a huge difference a few hundred rpms will do on a BAT power band

Very nice to know I don't have to shift out of 4th until 150mph

[kevin12]

Looking forward to see this finished Chris and definitely plan on using it. I think more and more everyday of doing the swap.

Kevin

[biketsai]

Just finished day one, details in post #2

What I did last night:
very excite!

[20A4Audi1.8t01]

Nice start!

[mike-2ptzero]

Hey Chris now would be the time to upgrade the shift linkage parts to some JHM parts, even if you just do the JHM bushing upgrade it will make it easier to install the linkage brace since the upgrade removes the allen head bolt for a normal bolt and makes it 100 times easier to put in since you just use a 17mm ratchet wrench.

[biketsai]

Hey Chris now would be the time to upgrade the shift linkage parts to some JHM parts, even if you just do the JHM bushing upgrade it will make it easier to install the linkage brace since the upgrade removes the allen head bolt for a normal bolt and makes it 100 times easier to put in since you just use a 17mm ratchet wrench.

Wish I had the money for the upgraded parts, but I am just flat out broke! I got the clutch disk yesterday and the UPS guy took the 6-puck, thanks!
Now the question is, do I use the auto transmission bolts, or the manual trans bolts.