DIY: B5 S4 - One Touch Up Rear Window

[Mooseimage]

I know there are 2 write-ups for this on other forums, but one of the pictures doesn't work, and the other I noticed the window regulator looked different than mine (it was from an A4, mine an S4). So here's mine with very complete instructions and multiple pictures. Bit longer, but didn't want to leave out any details.

I am not responsible if you screw up.

What This Does
Gives Driver capability of having all 4 windows to be one touch up AND down of all 4 windows instead of auto up of just the front 2 windows. Also retains auto down for rear passenger windows, as well as now give them auto up of their windows.

*Note for European Owners*

I got a pm from a member in Europe that told me when he did the mod on his Early '99 Eurospec B5 S4, it didn't work, he even lost his auto down function on the side he did it on. I'm adding this to inform those in Europe that this might not potentially work for you. Maybe contact members in your country that have or might know someone who has done this on their B5 S4 and what they did.

Tools


Copper wire
T-30 torx
Phillips Screwdriver
Wire Cutter
Something long and thin to wrap copper around pins. I used my very small pocket knife which had the perfect blade for the job.

Steps
First thing you should know, the following steps will apply to both doors exactly. They have the same screws and wires from both. Only thing I will show double of is the regulators, one for each side. Also, just do one door at a time.

1) Remove the following 3 screws (w/ screwdriver), then the handle trim piece (wiggle it out from the bottom with fingers), then the 4th screw (w/screwdriver). Then simply pull firmly up on the door to lift in out of place.











2) Once you've lifted the door panel out of place, there will be wires and cables holding it in place. Unplug the 3 wires (2 at bottom towards speaker area, and one just above that area). Once unplugged, the cable for the door handle is the only thing left. I left in on and just set the door panel aside as the pictures below depict.





3) Unplug connector connected to regulator, remove the 3 bolts (w/ T-30 torx bit), and pull straight out firmly the regulator (cable that brings up and down are not attached to this.)







4) I wrapped the following pins with a strands of copper wire I had in a figure eight (same as original DIY had stated), since I don't have a solder gun and didn't want to make it permanent (in case I messed up). Note the way I hold it so you know which pins are wrapped (the original DIY called these pins 5 and 7).

Driver's Side Regulator


Passenger's Side Regulator



***UPDATE***
Check post 3 as to why splicing the connector wires won't work.

5) Place regulator back in, reinstall 3 bolts that held it in, reconnect the connector to the regulator, reconnect three wires, and slide door panel back into place (don't forget to put the lock thingy back through the hole). Open the drivers door, put your key in the ignition, turn it so that the electronics in the car work. Using the drivers door window buttons, push down and hold for at least ten (10) seconds to have the window roll down on the door you just worked on, then pull up and hold for at least ten (10) seconds for the window to close. If it doesn't work, try again one more time. (I had to do it twice, don't know why.) Once you see you have one touch down AND up on rear window, screw the remaining screws in place, put back the door trim piece, and move on to the next door.

Enjoy.

Hamed

[Mooseimage]

Thanks everyone, glad I could provide a bit more clarity to an already simple DIY.

Personally, I'd rather strip the wires going in to the regulator and solder, tape and tie them, but this way works too.

Are you referring to the wire that clips into the regulator that I disconnected (the one with the red,brown, white, green, etc wires coming from it with the FAK label) prior to pulling out the torx bolts holding the regulator in?

That sounds like a good idea. I'll give that a try on Friday since I have the day off, and see how that works for me. It sounds a lot easier to do that for those comfortable striping some of the plastic cover of the wires. I'll post up an update about that as well.

[Mooseimage]

Okay, so I decided to check the wiring and I discovered that it would not be possible to splice wires together, because there is no wires there!



If you look at the picture, your see that on the driver's side, pin slot 5 (the only slot that doesn't have wires)...well, has no wires! So I have no clue why it works, wrapping pins 5 and 7 together since pin 5 connects to nothing. Also, pin slot 5 was not empty, it had a plastic piece that I took out for when I took the picture. Below is the piece that I took out (and put back in before putting my door back together.)







I'm sure if you found a connector to fill in and splice that empty slot similar to the other slots (maybe from a parts car?), you can slide it in and splice the wire into pin 7 to accomplish the same thing, but personally that is a lot of extra work for nothing. Maybe if someone takes a look at a B6/B7 A4/S4 door connector, see if it's the same as ours just has that wire in slot 5. Cause if it does, I can see some people opting to take the connectors out of a B6/B7 parts car, snipping the B5 one, and putting in the B6/B7 one instead to achieve this mod w/o having to wrap copper wire around the pins.



Original/Discussion Thread: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302123