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  1. #41
    Veteran Member Four Rings wolfdog's Avatar
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    Make sure you're not parked in gear when you try to turn the crank. I did that.
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  2. #42
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wolfdog View Post
    Make sure you're not parked in gear when you try to turn the crank. I did that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor View Post
    again, no gear in the car nothing.
    Anyway, i think that the crank will turn once i find the correct 19mm 12angle tool....
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  3. #43
    Registered User Four Rings greg@podi.ca's Avatar
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    It will be hard to turn, but it's possible. After it passes the compression, it will turn easily...then it will be hard again...then it will be easy. It's a cycle.

    Get the right tool on that crank socket and it should work fine.

  4. #44
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    It will be hard to turn, but it's possible. After it passes the compression, it will turn easily...then it will be hard again...then it will be easy. It's a cycle.

    Get the right tool on that crank socket and it should work fine.

    Seems i already had it.
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    However i think one should add to the DIY, that you should remove both the spark plugs to reduce compression, and have this tool to turn the crank cause it would in no way move from the 16mm bolt of of the exhaust cam...

    Here is where I left it for toninght will catch up with it again tomorrow...



    Thanks for the help guys...
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  5. #45
    Registered User Four Rings greg@podi.ca's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure you should never turn the motor at the cams while the timing belt is installed....that may not be in this writeup, but I've seen it in one of them. Plus, I didn't remove the spark plugs and it worked just fine.

    Glad you got it

  6. #46
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    I had remove the plugs so that some compression would possibly be lost and maybe help me a bit...
    i hope this was the tough part and get everything sorted out tomorrow morning ( night here as we speak ) with the special tool and flanges and stuff...it seems pretty straight forward from here on...just a bit worried for where to put extra sealant...i mean any more than the ELSA/bentely manual advises to...

    Thanks man, hope everything goes well...i see oil leaks while i am sleeping..noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooot good :)
    Audi A4 in an RS4 body
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  7. #47
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I'm pretty sure you should never turn the motor at the cams while the timing belt is installed....that may not be in this writeup, but I've seen it in one of them.
    as long as you turn it clockwise it's fine.

    OP, I'm not sure why you needed to remove the plugs to reduce compression, I've done this job a few times now (on friends' 1.8Ts) and never had that issue. Also, no need to use more sealant than the Bentley advises.
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  8. #48
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Guys, can you advise me on this very urgently...the car is in pieces and I need to get it fixed tonight :-)

    I am doing the VC + tensioner, and inserted the tool to compress the tensioner. I could not for the life of me turn the 16 mm bolt under the timing belt cover to make sure the tensioner is at the top.

    Regardless, the tensioner did compress quite a bit and the chain was loose, so I proceeded to unscrew the Torx screws, and then the whole assembly popped up about half an inch, but it won't move from there. I see the gasket underneath but there's no way to get that gasket out or the moon underneath it...

    Thoughts???

    Thanks!!!

  9. #49
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by dantm View Post
    the whole assembly popped up about half an inch, but it won't move from there. I see the gasket underneath but there's no way to get that gasket out or the moon underneath it...
    the assembly doesn't come out, just the gasket/half moon. If the gasket is really stuck to the block you might need to use a small flathead to pry it up, but after that it's just a matter of playing with it and sliding it to one side or the other. The half-moon can be pushed out either the front or the back.
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  10. #50
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Devo View Post
    the assembly doesn't come out, just the gasket/half moon. If the gasket is really stuck to the block you might need to use a small flathead to pry it up, but after that it's just a matter of playing with it and sliding it to one side or the other. The half-moon can be pushed out either the front or the back.
    I finally got this done but it was one of the worst things ... I had to slide the half-moon out through the back and then through trial-and-error slid the new one into the grove from the right side. There was only 1 inch or so of clearance with the tensioner tilted and it took more than 30 mins to get the half moon right...

  11. #51
    Veteran Member Four Rings doublezero30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor View Post
    so thats TDC? you want the arrow matched up with the groove then install the 3366 tool?
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  12. #52
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Correct!

    There is also a groove on one tooth of the Camshaft Sprocket, when you allign it with the groove on the valve cover , then the rear Sprockets will allign too...

    Then you put the 3366 Tool and compress the CVT
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  13. #53
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublezero30 View Post
    so thats TDC? you want the arrow matched up with the groove then install the 3366 tool?
    Yes so it seems....Just take a note, that this is the intake cam....The exhaust cam isnt exactly alligned with the mark there is a 1cm gap but it is also called alligned...
    You will see it once you do it yourself...

    Quote Originally Posted by dantm View Post
    I finally got this done but it was one of the worst things ... I had to slide the half-moon out through the back and then through trial-and-error slid the new one into the grove from the right side. There was only 1 inch or so of clearance with the tensioner tilted and it took more than 30 mins to get the half moon right...
    With this play though, did you manage to put the necessary sealant to the halfmoon, and the gasket...? Cause they should have some...

    Quote Originally Posted by RedV View Post
    Correct!

    There is also a groove on one tooth of the Camshaft Sprocket, when you allign it with the groove on the valve cover , then the rear Sprockets will allign too...

    Then you put the 3366 Tool and compress the CVT
    Leave your office and come at my garage to help me do it
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  14. #54
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor View Post
    With this play though, did you manage to put the necessary sealant to the halfmoon, and the gasket...? Cause they should have some...
    I don't think the half moon piece takes any sealant, does it?

    I was able to put sealant on top of the metal piece, in the lower right-hand corner. The sealant basically goes above where the half moon piece goes but between the metal piece and the tensioner.

  15. #55
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dantm View Post
    I don't think the half moon piece takes any sealant, does it?

    I was able to put sealant on top of the metal piece, in the lower right-hand corner. The sealant basically goes above where the half moon piece goes but between the metal piece and the tensioner.
    According to this DIY, and ELSA no it does not need...However the mechanic at the stealership, advised me to put some on the two corners of the half moon...i will see if that is possible..

    I am a bit nervous to do this...however I will give it a shot...I hope i wont do any damage...
    Audi A4 in an RS4 body
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  16. #56
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Guys ** I finished this replacement along with the VC change. Put the car back together and tried firing it up. It starts and runs but I think it runs a little rougher than before. Maybe it's just me ** I only started it for the first time in ~2 days and let it run for ~1-2 mins just to make sure it runs.

    I then inspected my work and realized that the tensioner gasket is sticking out about 0.1" on the right side. I'll see if I can illustrate this on a diagram. However, it all got screwed back in through the screw holes/etc. so I didn't miss installing it properly alltogether.

    Have you guys had this experience? The old gasket that I took out was positioned *exactly* under the tensioner; this new one sticks out a very slight bit...

    Could this be the problem of the engine vibration (it's not a vibration, more like a rough start as in a cold day)?

    Also ** how do you check for leaks after a VC gasket and a tensioner gasket replacement?


    Thanks a lot!!!

  17. #57
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Here's a diagram. Where the red circle is the gasket sticks out towards the right about ~0.1" However the tensioner is properly screwed in and the screw holes are all aligned.


  18. #58
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    I just finished mine too....Yes the new gasket sticks out a bit on both sides, however the screws and holes are all perfectly alligned...at first i was worried a bit about the half moon securing but i saw it is so soft it doesnt exactly secure...just stays in a place and then cover it with the flange...i hope everything stays there i am a bit worried though...

    However, i did close the whole thing, fingers crossed...



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  19. #59
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor View Post
    I just finished mine too....Yes the new gasket sticks out a bit on both sides, however the screws and holes are all perfectly alligned...at first i was worried a bit about the half moon securing but i saw it is so soft it doesnt exactly secure...just stays in a place and then cover it with the flange...i hope everything stays there i am a bit worried though...

    However, i did close the whole thing, fingers crossed...

    Hey that's exactly the experience that I had with this fix.

    How can you check that the car is leaking or not after the replacement of the VC gaskets and the tensioner gaskets? That's my biggest worry - that I start driving it around and it'll all fall apart.

    Thanks!!!

  20. #60
    Registered User Four Rings greg@podi.ca's Avatar
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    ^^ Inspect around the valve cover every so often after changing the gaskets.

  21. #61
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    How much time does it take to do a valve cover gasket as well as the cam chain half moon gasket seal? I'm in canada and my mechanic said he would do it at home, said 4 hours labor and about 500 bucks? Any input on if thats a little steep?

  22. #62
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    ^^ Inspect around the valve cover every so often after changing the gaskets.
    I do and everything seems great at the moment...i pushed the car and it seems ok...

    Quote Originally Posted by ColinBurger00 View Post
    How much time does it take to do a valve cover gasket as well as the cam chain half moon gasket seal? I'm in canada and my mechanic said he would do it at home, said 4 hours labor and about 500 bucks? Any input on if thats a little steep?
    I think if one knows what he is doing, it shouldnt be more than 3hours...
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  23. #63
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColinBurger00 View Post
    How much time does it take to do a valve cover gasket as well as the cam chain half moon gasket seal? I'm in canada and my mechanic said he would do it at home, said 4 hours labor and about 500 bucks? Any input on if thats a little steep?
    if he's halfway competent (and the engine isn't too hot), about an hour and a half total.
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  24. #64
    Established Member Two Rings
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    other than the website does anyone where to find the tool local to LA? I called som dealerships most where unhelpful and I would like to change my VCG on Sunday and cant really wait for shipping. Thx ALL!

  25. #65
    Veteran Member Four Rings doublezero30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightdog555 View Post
    other than the website does anyone where to find the tool local to LA? I called som dealerships most where unhelpful and I would like to change my VCG on Sunday and cant really wait for shipping. Thx ALL!
    you dont need it for the valve cover gasket. you need it for the cam tensioner gasket. but when replacing the cam tensioner gasket you also need to replace the valve cover gasket.
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  26. #66
    Veteran Member Three Rings Mani's Avatar
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    very good write-up... thank you!

  27. #67
    Forum Moderator Four Rings docurley's Avatar
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    I have moved a copy of this first post in to the DIY section, nice job.
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  28. #68
    Registered User Four Rings Matt@EuropaParts's Avatar
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    Are the Torx bolts for the tensioner T27 or T25?

  29. #69
    Veteran Member Four Rings Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt@EuropaParts View Post
    Are the Torx bolts for the tensioner T27 or T25?
    I used T25 on mine when i did it...
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  30. #70
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Tried to change the CAM CHAIN GASKET on my 2001 A4 B5 1.8T using this procedure but ran into a problem. With the Tensioner tool completely tighten the chain was still tight. The pictures above show the chain has slack in it. Also the Cam Chain Tensioner unit moved up only about a 1/8 off the gasket once the 4 bolts holding it down were removed. The tool instructions claim it can be used on a AWM engine.

    Found solution needed to put car in 5 gear (manual tran) and rock it back and forth see link below.
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ioner%20gasket
    Last edited by mark19; 07-09-2010 at 10:27 AM. Reason: found solution

  31. #71
    Veteran Member Four Rings manhertm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark19 View Post
    Tried to change the CAM CHAIN GASKET on my 2001 A4 B5 1.8T using this procedure but ran into a problem. With the Tensioner tool completely tighten the chain was still tight. The pictures above show the chain has slack in it. Also the Cam Chain Tensioner unit moved up only about a 1/8 off the gasket once the 4 bolts holding it down were removed. The tool instructions claim it can be used on a AWM engine.
    There's no slack at all?
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  32. #72
    Registered Member One Ring
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    As I tighten the tensioner tool it gets a little slack then gets tight again as I reach the end of the tools travel, the tool has a stop the contacts the Tensioners body.
    Last edited by mark19; 06-21-2010 at 04:09 PM.

  33. #73
    Active Member Two Rings m0nkey's Avatar
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    For those that have done this how tight should the tool be until i have enough slack? I've installed the tool but it just seems like its just going to circles. I feel the 3366 tool bolting into the hole but its just not pushing the tensioner down.
    Last edited by m0nkey; 06-23-2010 at 03:50 PM.

  34. #74
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    @monkey: The bolt in the tool is *just* long enough. If it won't start in it's hole, you can manually push on top chain guide to compress the tensioner with your hand. It will take some force, but isn't too bad. With the other hand you can start the tool into it's hole. This should give you a little breathing room to start that bolt.

    @mark19: If you aren't getting enough slack up top, try rolling the exhaust cam forward a little. This should help move the chain slack to the top. You can also roll the intake cam backwards a little, but it requires grabbing the cam with some vice grips or something which isn't really recommended. Also, you should note that you don't get a whole ton of room to do this. Even with all the slack to the top and tensioner compressed all the way, you won't get more than 1 inch for a gap - probably not even that much. You get just enough room for the tensioner to come off of its locator pins and to slip the gasket out. The half-moon plug is tricky indeed. The compression tool isn't hard to use. It runs in easily and you should stop as soon as you feel extra pressure. The plastic tool will start to flex and will break if stressed.

  35. #75
    Active Member Two Rings m0nkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    @monkey: The bolt in the tool is *just* long enough. If it won't start in it's hole, you can manually push on top chain guide to compress the tensioner with your hand. It will take some force, but isn't too bad. With the other hand you can start the tool into it's hole. This should give you a little breathing room to start that bolt.
    Ok cool ill try that tomorrow. Hopefully i did not mess up anything by over tightening it.

  36. #76
    Senior Member Three Rings hihosilver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rccks96 View Post
    FYI - the special tool isn't necessary. Mine broke when I was screwing it in (damn that thing is weak). But by simply unscrewing the CCT - I still had enough room to replace the gaskets.
    I was gonna ask (post) about that, so thanks.....

  37. #77
    Active Member Two Rings modah's Avatar
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    hey Guys.i run into a problem last night while changing the gasket i put everything together and all was fine. What i think i did was i thing i turned the cam counter clockwise am not sure.
    But right know the car is idling ruff like shit. a ruff vibration and aslo i hear a slight knocking or rattling sound. any ideas.

  38. #78
    Veteran Member Three Rings Papa_Dios's Avatar
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    anyone have pics w/o the red x's

  39. #79
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Weren't there more pics in this thread, where did they go ??

  40. #80
    Established Member Two Rings ironduke's Avatar
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    awesome write up. big thanks to matt devo for getting the pix back up (and for the write up in the first place!)

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