GTRS 100% used parts build thread with pics

[lookaught]

Im not at work today, so I'm going to start writing about my GTRS build. 100% used parts except for the software, clutch, turbo lines, and HFC.

Parts:
GTRS turbo
Genesis 430 injectors
ATP new style manifold
034 AN SS lines kit
Neuspeed TIP
Milltek HFC
Milltek full exhaust
ER Comp FMIC
Apexi EBC with dougyfresh custom ashtray
Clutch... to be determined
Software... Revo i think

So I've got most of the parts. Here are a few pics:

First off, the 100% sexy Milltek HFC. I love this thing!




Manifold, tip, expensive new gaskets, injectors in my toolbox:



ER Comp FMIC. Quite a bit of corrosion but that is inevitable. I polished the front plates over the winter because its winter and dark all the fucking time outside!

Before:

After (with tape still on):


Turbo arrives next week. No pics of the exhaust for now. Im projecting an early April install of all the parts, but need to clone my Immo onto a new ECU first before I get the software, still need to get the EBC and some odds and ends of hardware and lines.


I'll update this periodically.

[Maverick]

iirc your engine was running strong since your compression test was very good, am I correct?

[7speed]

looks like a good start. Hopefully Anthony will make us a Project/Build thread pretty soon

[lookaught]

iirc your engine was running strong since your compression test was very good, am I correct?

Yep. From my other thread:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...on#post3113587

Compression:

I tested my car this weekend and got (90,300 miles):

1 - 190
2 - 185
3 - 190
4 - 190

Leakdown:

Alright I just got back from my mechanic and the leak down test results are (now at 90,700 miles):

1 - 2.5%
2 - 4.5%
3 - 3%
4 - 2%

Needless to say Im quite pleased with the results *high five!* and the BT upgrade will continue as planned! The car was tested at 100psi inlet pressure, losing a few psi to the high 90's.

[thebikedoctor33]

Yep. From my other thread:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...on#post3113587

forgive me, i know what a compression test is. but what is the process of a leakdown test?

and congrats on the progress!

[lookaught]

forgive me, i know what a compression test is. but what is the process of a leakdown test?

and congrats on the progress!

Leakdown steps:

1. take out plugs
2. set the cylinder that you are testing to TDC (all valves closed, this is the point where the max compression occurs if it was actually firing)
3. pump in 100psi of air through the plug hole using a special leakdown tester tool
4. there is a second gauge on the leakdown testerthat shows how much pressure is actually in the cylinder. So if you are pumping it at 100psi and the cylinder is only holding 95psi, you have 5% leakdown. It continuously pumps in 100psi so the leakdown remains constant while you listen for where it is coming from... It can leak through piston rings, intake and exhaust valves, and even through the head gasket. You can listen at the throttle body butterfly, tailpipe, and through the dipstick hole or oil fill hole to hear where it's coming from.

So it's similar to a compression test, except rather than the engine creating the pressure you pump in the pressure. Much more accurate and easy to diagnose where leaks are coming from... bad rings, bent valves, carbon build up, head gasket, etc. There is skill involved in performing the test though, it's not retard proof like a compression test.

1 hour labor at a good shop for the test.



And thanks!

[dougyfresh]

forgive me, i know what a compression test is. but what is the process of a leakdown test?

and congrats on the progress!

Your avatar looks like my car

[thebikedoctor33]

Your avatar looks like my car

well i can assure you it is mine. if only mine was as fast as yours...

[dougyfresh]

well i can assure you it is mine. if only mine was as fast as yours...

I know. I just don't see blue avants too often. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for you next time I'm in the warren area (feb 7th).




Jon. That FMIC came out CLEAN

[AudiA4_20T]

the ER looks good dude

[lookaught]

Thanks yeah the IC looks much better now. Still pretty chipped up when you are staring at it from one foot away but that's what used parts look like... used!

Clint I managed to reshape all of the tubing ends to be nearly perfectly round with the exception of the hot side intake on the FMIC itself... it was just too collapsed. Im debating between cutting it off and rewelding on a new piece from that tube you gave me or just leaving it. hmmmm

Where did you buy the T-clamps that you sent me that were brand new? I would like to pick up a few more, I like the design of those clamps more than the used ones because of the edge of the clamp under the bolt is bent upwards at 90* along the edge to help prevent it from folding in like an accordion, which is definitely what caused the dents in the piping by the previous owner.
EDIT, now with pics:

The clamp Im looking for is on the right:
EDIT #2: the clamp on the right is called a T-Bolt Channel Bridge Non-Floating design. In case you are wondering. Still don't know the brand of this one, but the design is universal.


Hot side pipe:

[lookaught]

Jon. That FMIC came out CLEAN

Yeah I was pleased. That first pic is actually the backside of the IC which still looks like that. The front was even worse in terms of corrosion. You can see on the right edge where I did a test to see how the polish would work and see the difference.

Took freaking FOREVER. Had to sand it first, then tape, then a high speed polisher, then untape, then polish the end tanks and pipes...

[dougyfresh]

Was that Clint's old FMIC?

[lookaught]

Yes. One of the B6 beta kits. There are some small differences between it and the current productions kits, but in essence it is the same.

[dougyfresh]

Yes. One of the B6 beta kits. There are some small differences between it and the current productions kits, but in essence it is the same.

What the hell did he do to it to collapse those lines?

[lookaught]

Overtightened the T-Bolt clamps. He said it was the previous owner of the FMIC.

It took an enormous amount of force to reshape them... it's really impressive how tight the t-bolt style clamps can get. That one pipe in those pics was the only one that I was unable to straiten out to 95% of true. It was also the most damaged, you should have seen it before I worked on it... those pics are from AFTER the expansion.

I should note that he did include a spare 1' pipe with rolled edges so I have the material to put on a new pipe already... just need to decide if I want to.

[JayStang]

How much did the HFC go for?

[lookaught]

$799 plus shipping.

Not cheap.

[JayStang]

Ouch... that hurts!

[lookaught]

Worth every penny to assure that my car will not stink like shite. Not to mention cars without catalytic converts are absolutely horrible for the environment. I would NEVER drive a car without a cat.

My motorcycle, on the other hand, makes a pretty nice smell without a cat. I don't know why there's a difference.

[dougyfresh]

and my car is still making good power with a HFC

[thebikedoctor33]

and my car is still making good power with a HFC

good to hear some people have enough sense not to run test pipes!

[AudiA4_20T]

Hey man I got he clamps from cxracing.com. Glad you got it fixed up, once again I'm sorry it wasn't up to par with you, but im more of a function over looks person. I ran it with the bent pipes like that already, and it worked fine, so you should be fine but I suppose fixing it might help

[lookaught]

Hey man I got he clamps from cxracing.com. Glad you got it fixed up, once again I'm sorry it wasn't up to par with you, but im more of a function over looks person. I ran it with the bent pipes like that already, and it worked fine, so you should be fine but I suppose fixing it might help

Dont sweat it. I think that it would perform damn near the same but I have an OCD that makes me try to correct things as best as I can. I wasnt hard to fix the pipes it just took me a while to find a shop to rent the tool from... everyone seemed to have broken ones. It is disappointing that one single pipe is thwarting me and I may have to weld on a new section, but it'll be a good project. I need to fix the other pipe as well with a bead because it has a rub mark that is almost completely through the metal right in the middle of the 90* bend.

Thanks for the clamp info, I've bought stuff from CX before and will look into their pricing. I might just get some ebay clamps though, two for $6 shipped!

[lookaught]

New pics of the turbo and the manifold and hfc mocked up. Everything lined up perfectly.

The turbo was 100% used but then ATP replaced the turbine housing and CHRA, so now it's more like 20% used.

Im surprised how heavy all of these parts are when bolted together. Seems like I need to fab a support or something.

[dougyfresh]

test that wg actuator before install.

[kneel]

How much power/hp is this setup to make? And how Reliable is it for an everyday driver?

[lookaught]

No idea about the power numbers, maybe I'll get it dynod before any mods are on and once it's complete. Should be reliable as a daily... it's my only car so it better be reliable!

[SleeperAvant]

Looks awesome!

[A4natomical]

and my car is still making good power with a HFC

I'm thinking about picking up a HFC.

Good to see another build thread Jon!

[lookaught]

test that wg actuator before install.

What is an approximate appropriate actuating pressure?

I need to get a low pressure regulator for my compressor first.

[dougyfresh]

I think factory settings are around 11psi.

If you put rods in your motor and opt for the EuroCode/REVO 'new' software and fueling kit I'd adjust it to 20psi.


Mine was at 11psi originally. Its at 20psi now and I'm getting my software adjusted accordingly.

[romell]

doug.... me and you need to block this website.

[lookaught]

Cool, thanks for the info. No rods or high boost software for me, at least not yet... maybe in a few years. I need to keep this car reliable and streetable. Emphasis on reliable.

[dougyfresh]

doug.... me and you need to block this website.

Yes. However, I just got on. Been at work since 6:30 actually doing stuff. sending you PM. Found another set of brakes you can inquire about.











Jon. Rods and high boost is reliable. We're doing it on Romell's car and my car has it. Both are/will be reliable.
At a minimum, if you chose REVO you can run the new software and such but at low boost. I know you'll be diligent about things (logging, etc..) so its not a big deal if you don't do rods. Just keep it under 22-ish psi.

[romell]

and Jon im in the same boat as you.. 150+ miles a day.. my only car.. so its going to be reliable.. and the rods is a little extra money.. but dont forget.. that insurance is worth it.. and hey if you feel like you can up the boost pretty nicely (Eurocode Package) and you are driving a whole new car =)

[romell]

[QUOTE=dougyfresh;3304482]Yes. However, I just got on. Been at work since 6:30 actually doing stuff. sending you PM. Found another set of brakes you can inquire about.




i sat in the office.. planning to get here by 8, but got here by 8:45 due to me shoveling snow and what not and driving 45 mph behind everyone... and i turn on my laptop.. connect my cables.. turn on outlook and turn on audizine.. and let everything load =) its bad.

[dougyfresh]

No shoveling today (get to come home to a nice ice-covered driveway again ). I had to get in early to get 'shit done after sleeping 3hrs. Got a 5pm flight to SLC for some real snow

[lookaught]

Maybe in the future I'll build the motor, or at least put in rods and forged pistons. At the moment that is a can of worms that Im not prepared to open. I've got some big tuition bills coming this fall and I'm trying to stick to a budget with this build. It's going to be hard to transition from the working world to student so I'm dumping money into savings at the moment.

I get my yearly bonus by the end of the first quarter. If it is a nice one then perhaps I'll rethink this before I put it all together. Rods, pistons and a cylinder hone isnt a budget breaker, but it's not cheap either. The 034 kits are enticing though....

[dougyfresh]

Maybe in the future I'll build the motor, or at least put in rods and forged pistons. At the moment that is a can of worms that Im not prepared to open. I've got some big tuition bills coming this fall and I'm trying to stick to a budget with this build. It's going to be hard to transition from the working world to student so I'm dumping money into savings at the moment.

I get my yearly bonus by the end of the first quarter. If it is a nice one then perhaps I'll rethink this before I put it all together. Rods, pistons and a cylinder hone isnt a budget breaker, but it's not cheap either. The 034 kits are enticing though....

Good plan.

Having read that, I suggest sticking to your plan and drive the car. Do the school thing and rethink things once school is done. Stock internals and decent boost (~20-22psi) will be fun whilst going to class.