Stage 1+??

[E Dub]

Hey guys... tried seraching, but really didn't get a GREAT answer... LoL...

Looking at going from just Revo, to adding the BI File and the TT225 386CC injectors ...

My question is it it really worth it?? Not looking for "die hard" numbers, just more so looking for your personal opion... Maybe a scale of 1-10 on the difference??

Thanks

[widgget]

you will be able to take a minivan, it feels better but don't expect to have a "fast" car doing it. 1+ is how the car should have come from the factory.

[E Dub]

Ok... let me add that I have a full exhaust, and a forge 007... not that it should matter much... Not looking to go 350+ hp... just not trying to be 150hp... LoL

[jessefrank]

I have the REVO 2 (aka 1+ everywhere else).
I did it origionally went from stg 1 to Stg 1+ with no mods except DV and drop-in filter. Also I did this in the middle of July in CO...where temps were mid-90's and the elevation is +/- 6000 ft. I felt that it wasn't much of a jump in power at all. It smoothed out the boost spike and added a little more but i felt like my IC was heat soaking REALLY bad in no time at all even with normal driving.
After doing my FMIC and full exhaust it feels much better. So if you have supporting mods the jump will probably be pretty noticable.

[widgget]

it's deff better then stock, just don't expect a "major" increase. I was happy when i did mine (well, for a few months anyway, then i wanted more)

[QwaktastiK]

Can we get a list of recommended supporting mods for Stage 1+?
-upgraded DV
-FMIC or DSMIC

at the minumum...?

I've read that the two things to watch out for with Stage 1+ is Heat Soak and Boost Spikes.
Are those the only two things to worry about? And is there anything else other than the upgraded DV & IC that would help protect against this?

I've read that it is recommended to upgrade the TIP. Should this be done prior to Stage 1+?

How does the stock clutch handle the boost spikes? any slippage?z

Thanks in advance!

[Charlescrs6]

WHen you do it I would do an fmic and definitely a test pipe.

[afozzie40]

im selling a set of those injectors. check the classifieds.

[widgget]

"Can we get a list of recommended supporting mods for Stage 1+?"

search, this has been covered a million times over and then a few more on top of that.
EVERYTHING you will ever need to know about getting your car chipped is on the forums already, just go look it up.

[Siggiepop]

^ yes look it up. I found all my info searching as well.
I've seen this sort of topic come up more than twice the past 2 weeks

[chadb2434]

I went from 1 to 1+ a few weeks ago and I actually felt a pretty good difference! I'm enjoying every bit of it!

[cyclo]

Ok... let me add that I have a full exhaust, and a forge 007... not that it should matter much... Not looking to go 350+ hp... just not trying to be 150hp... LoL

We're 170hp, no?
Granted whether 170 or not you lose a bunch at the wheels. But you're talking empirically right?

[Siggiepop]

i went from stock to 1+ and it felt good. This summer 1+ to uni gtrs will feel great lol

[cyclo]

I'm running an APR 1+ now and I think it is definitely quicker. Everyone that drives in my car is like "whoa". Over time you'll get used to that seat of the pants feel and you'll think your car is slow...hence more mods.
Just know the powerband for our cars is small. The engines don't provide much pop beyond like 4500rpms. So don't wring the daylights out of it, you won't get more.
The problem is the older your car gets the slower it will be comparatively. I tried to overtake a Rav 4 and with my 1+ I couldn't pull out around that p.o.s.
Take people off the line and then chill out before they catch u!

[widgget]

it's not the engine, it's the turbo that can't feed the engine well enough past 4500rpm. of course a bigger turbo won't spool as low. so while i can easily get power right up to 7000rpm it doesn't start coming on until 3200rpm so it's still limited to a certain range, just one a little larger with allot more power behind it.

[E Dub]

^ yes look it up. I found all my info searching as well.
I've seen this sort of topic come up more than twice the past 2 weeks

I wasn't asking for what mods are needed... I wanted to know personal opions on going from 1 to 1+ and if it is worth the price of the inj's and small REVO charge...

Chad - Thanks for actually answering my question...

Cyclo - It was a joke on the 150hp...

[manguyen]

As you move from stage one on up, it just gets a little more pricey for every horsepower you gain. :) seems like people on here were happy with the 1+, let me know what you decide on those injectors.

[E Dub]

Ok, another noob question... What is the difference between 380 and 386?? Besides the obvious 6 instead of a 0.... LoL

[pizdetsauduxa]

get the revo 2.
if ur a manual tranny its def worth it, i dont hear the same for the auto "tip" drivers.

its like getting revo1 again basically..then add a testpipe, maybe exhaust which is way overpiced... and if youre in warm weather do the fmic..

the 386cc are the apr recommended oem tt225 injectors which are simply better then the 380bosch and others that need extensions etc

[E Dub]

I love when people read...

Ok... let me add that I have a full exhaust, and a forge 007...

[pizdetsauduxa]

are you referring to me?

[CO AVANT]

it leaves something to be desired... I would not make a big care about 386 compared to 380cc...

[jessefrank]

If you plan on staying 1+ for awhile (indefinetly) I'd get the OEM TT225 injectors (386cc) or pick up a used set of Genesis 380's. Those two have the factory correct spray pattern. I had a set of Bosch 380cc's and it didn't have to be that cold out for the car to idle like sh!t and if driving before the engine was fully warm the car would be all jerky when getting on the throttle. Some use 380cc injectors that don't have the factory correct spray pattern with no issues, some do as I did (although I have an 02 which the ECU fueling is slightly diff)
The genesis's aren't being made anymore, but seet them in the classifieds often.

For supporting mods, I'd look into a FMIC or DSMIC. You can find quite a few used ones floating around for $500ish. Although I have no logging data the overall "feel" of my car is much better with the FMIC. REVO says you also need an air intake...for that just get a drop in filter, the OEM air box is pretty darn good. Also does your full exhasut include a HFC or Test pipe? That is also on REVO's required list to get the full boost/timing settings. Then make sure you have the proper spring in your DV and a colder plug (like NGK BKR7E's) and you'll be good.

[b6onboost]

Stage 1+ is significantly better than stage 1. Even if you have zero supporting mods aside from an upgraded DV...it's still more powerful and pulls noticeably longer and harder than stage 1.

I had stage 1 for a month, felt disappointed. Got Injectors and a reflash, and felt very satisfied with what my money got me. As time goes on, adding supporting mods simply makes it even better too. 1+ is a simple, cheap, 'no brainer' mod.

... I wanted to know personal opions on going from 1 to 1+ and if it is worth the price of the inj's and small REVO charge...

[E Dub]

Thanks Jess and B6 for your replies... Looks like I will take this step... Now the issue is that Revo is no longer local to me... so might need to go APR...

[gtsingh91]

b6onboost...did you upgrade your exhaust AT ALL? any test pipe, dp, or even mufflers? because i want to go stg 1+ with forge007 and dont really have the money right now for the exhaust so let me know please.

[festerfm]

talk to the people doing the flash... i researched apr, revo, giac and decided to go with apr but the actual shop was run by a bunch of assholes. they didnt want to use my siemens injectors so they tried to sell me the $500 225tt injectors and when i didnt do it, they screwed me out of almost $100. went to install the injectors, took them back out and said that they needed spacers and that they couldnt do the install. so i left the shop but still paid the $54 for the flash that they did then undid.... i got on the phone with the site i bou8ght the injectors from and they told me what to do so i went back to the shop with the injectors and showed them that they must not have worked on many audi's because they didnt need the spacers for the fuel rail. so they installed the injectors, charged me for the flash again, and the install.. all done, i paid almost double because i didnt use the injectors they wanted me to.

lesson: u did ur research on what brand to go with, research the shop and talk to them before u take u'r car in and give them money.. will make the process much nicer. and btw, i was apr stage 1 first.. bought siemens injectors for $250 and went for 1+.. at the time i got the flash to 1+ i had catback, and dv. if you plan on going test pipe (highly recommended, ebay ) let the shop know and they can put in a file to make u'r check engine light stay off. the guys who say get a front mount are prob right... i cant say one way or another because i dont have one yet, but i have all the parts just waiting for a nice day.. chances are it's a very good idea.. and the test pipe will keep u'r egt's down and possibly save u'r turbo's life.. like everyone else said before on here, it will work w/out these other upgrades, but to get the full effect, they are a good idea..

think of just getting a chip and nothing else and compare that to just changing u'r brake pads and not touching the rotors at all.. sure, you can do it, but to get the most out of u'r brakes, it's good to service both pads and rotors at the same time...



edit... upgrade that dv... if you like u'r turbo, upgrade the dv.. bad things will happen if that factory diaphram dv goes poo on you.. upgrade to a piston type..

[vinny.dtw]

it's deff better then stock, just don't expect a "major" increase. I was happy when i did mine (well, for a few months anyway, then i wanted more)

Dude I want more now. Let alone 1+

[9744RR]

REVO 1+ is really a REVO stg2 program it's just called 1+ on the forums. With injectors, a good FMIC or DSMIC, and exhaust mods it will give you a nice mountain of torque in the low end to midrange which makes the car "feel good" until you try to race someone and get walked. If you want a DD that feels good and will never race anyone, definetly get the 1+ (stg 2) program. Don't forget copper plugs and an SPS3 along with keeping your eye on the classifieds when you decide you want to go BT.

[E Dub]

Thanks for all the info guys!!

[A4 KiDD 810]

fmic helps alot I just did mine in the midst of winter and wow still a huge difference

[MR.H]

What should the peak boost be for apr 1+ chip be? I have the bosch big injectors peaking at 25 psi.
Have i been lucky for the past year or is there no need to worry?

BTW i have the stock KO3 with forge 007 DV and factory exhaust and smic

[festerfm]

my apr 1+ peaks at 25-26, and holds at 23

[E Dub]

Thanks again!!

[AudiA4Turbo22]

it is a big difference.

[b6onboost]

PM'd you.

b6onboost...did you upgrade your exhaust AT ALL? any test pipe, dp, or even mufflers? because i want to go stg 1+ with forge007 and dont really have the money right now for the exhaust so let me know please.

[E Dub]

I think I am stuck.. nearest Revo dealer is 150 miles away... The local guy left

not sure if I wanna go APR, and basically double the price of Stage 1+ or stick with what I have and wait till WF... hmmm....

[widgget]

Personally i would wait and go revo.

[manguyen]

can ECUs be sent into revo???

[festerfm]

i drove 130 miles to get my apr done... just think, u make the drive there, then you have 150 miles to "test" u'r new car