Treadstone SS manifold

[dirtybrd]

I had to warranty my manifold due to some very small cracks in it. I believe that it was due to my rich running issue and the above normal temps that created. I just got an e-mail from them offering me the first, not even released yet, 347 stainless cast manifold. It a duplicate of my current one but stainless. I jumped on it!! This pic is of the bottom.

[sambrody44]

Nice man, looks pretty sweet.

[lookaught]

That is teh sexor!

Retail price? Which flange is that?

[A4ringedONE8T]

Purdy

[dirtybrd]

I don't know the price, I got a deal on it. The pic maybe T25, but I got T3.

[MikTip]

The best looking cast aftermarket 1.8T manifold I've seen yet! ATP take note...

[eurogruppe]

very nice

[dougyfresh]

I'm impressed they warrantied the old one. Good for you. That new one looks pretty stout.

[docurley]

That looks very nice I have to say.

[mike-2ptzero]

Well all manifolds should carry a warranty, even the FR manifold has a life time warranty.

[dougyfresh]

Well all manifolds should carry a warranty, even the FR manifold has a life time warranty.

Yea, Mike.... but he mentioned it was warrantied not due to a manufacturing defect but by him running excessively hotter than anticipated and thus cracking the manifold.

[Don Supreme]

nice nice...

[mike-2ptzero]

Yea, Mike.... but he mentioned it was warrantied not due to a manufacturing defect but by him running excessively hotter than anticipated and thus cracking the manifold.

Yeah I know that, but it still should be covered by that point since the manifold should hold up to even very high EGT's.

[Don Supreme]

Yeah I know that, but it still should be covered by that point since the manifold should hold up to even very high EGT's.

IMHO the engine should melt before a well done manifold........................

However, thats usually not the case

[vdubstreets]

how is the install compared to the atp?

[dougyfresh]

Dan. Takes me 30mins to get the turbo and manifold out of the car in one piece from opening the hood and draining the coolant. Can't remove the turbo with the manifold on the engine. The frame rail is in the way. I have a manifold that is very similar to this one. Should have showed it to you last night. Sorry.

[vdubstreets]

I hear about the horror stories with the ATP manifolds and the specially made tools . when i did my ko4 i just left the manifold on and unbolted the turbo.

next time you'll have to show me

[mike-2ptzero]

Dan. Takes me 30mins to get the turbo and manifold out of the car in one piece from opening the hood and draining the coolant. Can't remove the turbo with the manifold on the engine. The frame rail is in the way. I have a manifold that is very similar to this one. Should have showed it to you last night. Sorry.

So are you taking the studs out? I would think if the rail is in the way to remove the turbo off the manifold it would also get in the way of pulling the turbo/manifold off together since it still needs to move toward the rail to get pulled out.

If bolts are used at the turbo/manifold flange instead of studs, the turbo should be able to slide upward once the bolts are removed.

[dougyfresh]

So are you taking the studs out? I would think if the rail is in the way to remove the turbo off the manifold it would also get in the way of pulling the turbo/manifold off together since it still needs to move toward the rail to get pulled out.

If bolts are used at the turbo/manifold flange instead of studs, the turbo should be able to slide upward once the bolts are removed.

Mike, I have studs in the T25 flange. You can't fit bolts in there with an internal WG turbine housing. I tried (which reminds me... I have brand new 10mm dia ARP bolts if anyone wants them).

I remove the manifold from the cylinder head with the turbo still bolted to the manifold. If I need to remove the turbo I remove it from the manifold when the whole she-bang is outside of the car.

The manifold is easy to take off of the cylinder head with a 12mm 1/4inch drive swivel socket. Bottom studs need a 12mm wrench.

next time you'll have to show me

Sure thing

[mike-2ptzero]

Oh I thought you said that the turbo wont come off the manifold while its on the car because it hits the rail, thats why I thought the turbo would still hit the rail while trying to pull the manifold off of the head since you still need to move it toward the rail to get it past the studs and the valve cover.

[romell]

hm interesting manifold... doug i took note of this =)

[dougyfresh]

Oh I thought you said that the turbo wont come off the manifold while its on the car because it hits the rail, thats why I thought the turbo would still hit the rail while trying to pull the manifold off of the head since you still need to move it toward the rail to get it past the studs and the valve cover.

Oh, I mis-read you.

You can carefully finagle the turbo and manifold off the head in one piece. There is enough room to rotate it around and clear the head studs with the manifold in place. Then you can pull it out of the car without coming anywhere near the valve cover. However, the direct path the turbo needs to take to clear the T25 (or T3) studs when the manifold is bolted in leaves you with no room next to the frame rail.






Noted, Romell.

[vdubstreets]

I noted that both you noted this in my notes.

[romell]

^ lol huh?

[dougyfresh]

I noted that both you noted this in my notes.

And I note that you note that I noted what Romell noted.

[romell]

And I note that you note that I noted what Romell noted.

and i note that doug noted that... nvm forget it... i just noted this might be a good manifold for me and other disciples of doug.

[dirtybrd]

They warrantied it even though I P+P'd it too. Their warranty is one year free replacement and after that it's $170. I paid $250 for this one, so $80 more shipped.