what is neccesary for stage 1+?

[braker15]

hey folks, Iam thinking of going 1+, so I was wondering what would be a must upgrade on the car, besides the injectors?
or am I all set? So far I got apr1, forge007 and magnaflow exhaust.
thanks

[onceover]

good to go.

[braker15]

good to go.

wouldn't it hurt my turbo and overall performance without an intercooler or
a testpipe/downpipe?

[onceover]

wont hurt, but yes, both will help.

especially in florida youll notice a lot of heatsoak with the stock SMIC.

[Siggiepop]

FMIC, HFC or Testpipe, Exhast, DV, Metal TIP. Fool proof 1+ setup. Also good foundations if you ever decide to up the power. Think long run if you plan to do more.

[FourRings80]

The Apikol SMIC ($550) could also be an option, if you don't want to spend too much.

-Siggie, will you be running a TP or HFC?

[NightRoller USP]

Testpipe,downpipe, cat back exhaust, front mount intercooler, software(apr,revo,giac,unitronics,ect.) and appropriate injectors. Snub mount, motor and tranny mounts prob wouldnt be bad this to change while your doing the work though!

[Maverick]

spare coil packs are also necessary

[Papachristou]

bulletproof 1+

hitachi E's Coilpacks
FMIC (not apikol SMIC either, they only saw a 20-30 degree reduction in IATs whereas a racetec will drop them 80-100 degrees) i saw the biggest gain in power with my FMIC, not exhaust or test pipe
test pipe is great for keeping your EGTs down and letting the car cool down much quicker. 1+ runs 950+ EGTs
TIP (forge or winston SS tip)
new DV

keep in mind anytime you double your factory boost, it will expose any weak points in the car (clutch, CPs etc)

[gdawg'05a4]

Skip on the Apikol SMIC. Not worth the price tag IMO. I bought it and then ended up going to a FMIC a month later because it wasn't providing enough cooling. The car still heat soaked after a run or two. For the price, you'll spend a little more for better cooling. $550 vs $825, less than a $300 difference...worth the gain IMO. Now with the RaceTec, it'll pull and pull without heat soaking.

Apikol lowered the IAT about 20 degrees over stock. 190 F vs 170 F
RaceTec lowered the IAT about 77 degress over stock. 190 F vs 113 F

The Apikol unit is nice and all but still doesn't get the job done right, especially for the price.

[vinny.dtw]

money.

[NightRoller USP]

Fmic if you are looking for a bulletproof no heatsock problems way to go.....I forgot to mention a good dv too!

[Papachristou]

Skip on the Apikol SMIC. Not worth the price tag IMO. I bought it and then ended up going to a FMIC a month later because it wasn't providing enough cooling. The car still heat soaked after a run or two. For the price, you'll spend a little more for better cooling. $550 vs $825, less than a $300 difference...worth the gain IMO. Now with the RaceTec, it'll pull and pull without heat soaking.

Apikol lowered the IAT about 20 degrees over stock. 190 F vs 170 F
RaceTec lowered the IAT about 77 degress over stock. 190 F vs 113 F

The Apikol unit is nice and all but still doesn't get the job done right, especially for the price.

good info

people rag on me because i push the FMIC so much on 1+ but it really makes it a new car again

[chadb2434]

You need HUGE brakes, like a Boeing 747 big

[dr. brian]

Your Racetek showed a 80-100 degree drop in IAT's?? Holy sh@t that's awesome and close to water meth injection IAT reduction.

[dr. brian]

Whats the difference then from Racetek vs. Racewerks competition other than cost obviously???

EvolutionRacewerks Competition FMIC 2002-05 A4 1.8T

Now: $1,595.00 - $1,695.00

Eurocode Tuning

[KPC1.8TQuat]

Whats the difference then from Racetek vs. Racewerks competition other than cost obviously???

EvolutionRacewerks Competition FMIC 2002-05 A4 1.8T

Now: $1,595.00 - $1,695.00

Eurocode Tuning

The ER competition FMIC is meant for larger Gt28 series turbos and would be overkill for a 1+ setup. The Racetek is the way to go.

Off topic: Dr. Brian, what field are you in?

Cheers

[Papachristou]

pretty much what he said.. the racetec is 380 cu in and the er comp is 600 cu in plus it has to have a new bumper rebar to fit and comes with a PS cooler... but i bought a 4x8 tranny cooler from advanced auto for $19.99. its the same thing that comes with the er comp

BTW my racetec fit without having to trim the bumper at all

[Siggiepop]

The Apikol SMIC ($550) could also be an option, if you don't want to spend too much.

-Siggie, will you be running a TP or HFC?

I'm running the eurocode testpipe right now. My EGT is tapped into the testpipe right after the turbo. I might consider moving to a HFC the one 034 makes

[KPC1.8TQuat]

I would skip the testpipe. For a 1+ setup or even a K04, the testpipe isn't necessary. Get a HFC if you are really concerned, but you aren't going to make enough power with that setup to warrant going to a straight exhaust. Get an ATP manifold before you go for a testpipe.

Trust me, you didn't buy an Audi so you could smell like gas fumes while idling at a red light.

EDIT: All the software flashes are coded to run with a cat anyway, so why go to a straight pipe? Look, even with a 1+ you're only going to make 50 FtLbs more torque...Hardly earth shattering.

[KPC1.8TQuat]

BTW my racetec fit without having to trim the bumper at all

That's the way to do it

[Papachristou]

I would skip the testpipe. For a 1+ setup or even a K04, the testpipe isn't necessary. Get a HFC if you are really concerned, but you aren't going to make enough power with that setup to warrant going to a straight exhaust. Get an ATP manifold before you go for a testpipe.

Trust me, you didn't buy an Audi so you could smell like gas fumes while idling at a red light.

EDIT: All the software flashes are coded to run with a cat anyway, so why go to a straight pipe? Look, even with a 1+ you're only going to make 50 FtLbs more torque...Hardly earth shattering.

those are great points but honestly i dont smell any gas while out in the open with my car (or i could be used to it ) and i think the test pipe actually does more for the health of the turbo/manifold/oil because the lack of a cat allows all those hot gasses to escape instead of being held back by the cat. my TP lowered my EGTs and my car used to take 5 minutes to return to normal operating temps (around 400c EGTs) plus my cat, turbo and manifold would be glowing red after driving (this was stock too BTW) now with 1+ it barely gets red and returns to 400 in about 1-2 minutes depending on if i drove it easy the last few miles.

just my two cents on it, only you can decide whats right for you

[KPC1.8TQuat]

those are great points but honestly i dont smell any gas while out in the open with my car (or i could be used to it ) and i think the test pipe actually does more for the health of the turbo/manifold/oil because the lack of a cat allows all those hot gasses to escape instead of being held back by the cat. my TP lowered my EGTs and my car used to take 5 minutes to return to normal operating temps (around 400c EGTs) plus my cat, turbo and manifold would be glowing red after driving (this was stock too BTW) now with 1+ it barely gets red and returns to 400 in about 1-2 minutes depending on if i drove it easy the last few miles.

just my two cents on it, only you can decide whats right for you

Yeah, Papa you are totaly spot on about the EGT's. It's physics really. Less restriction, better low, of course it will lower temps. I also never looked it it this way, but you're right, it probably is better for the condition or lifespan of the turbo and mannifold.

As for the gas smell, I've never had a car with a TP. My friend had a B5 A4 with one however, and it was absolutely toxic for city driving. I'm sure everyone has different experiences though.

Side Story Time:
In my friend's B5, bombing around some country roads at like 11pm, get nicked by a cop. He comes to the window and says, "You passed me doing 90 with flames shooting out of your tailpipe..." No lie, hands to my chest truth my friend goes, "flames? really? awesome!"

$300+ ticket for speeding and for the illegal exhaust.

[Papachristou]

oh thats a nice story! ive never been told that i shoot flames lol!

i can smell it a little when the car first starts up but its in a garage, when its running and warmed up its not as bad.. its worth it IMO... i cant get the mani/turbo/TP as red with apr 1+ as i used to get the mani/turbo/cat with stock programming

[KPC1.8TQuat]

Papa, all good things bro.

You have to deal with emissions testing? NH is usually pretty light on laws in general but for some reason they take emissions wicked seriously.

Live free or die.....as long as you have a stock exhaust.

[Siggiepop]

^i'm running one and you don't smell it while in the car. Sometimes when i get out of the car i could smell it. Also i've never been behind my own car so i can't tell how bad it is for the person behind me. +EGTs yeah they definately have gone down. With a HFC+3"dp you could reduce EGTs as well.

i have to get an E-test this coming year so... i'll have to slap the old cat back on or i might just got HFC.

[gdawg'05a4]

good info

people rag on me because i push the FMIC so much on 1+ but it really makes it a new car again

Yup, it really does make a huge difference. In the Winter time, it makes a difference too even though it's already cold outside.

[B8Buckeye]

good info

people rag on me because i push the FMIC so much on 1+ but it really makes it a new car again

i'm with you papachristou. the FMIC is a MUST for anything above a standard stage 1. people tend to think only of added power. just as important is retained power. what good is a mod that add 50hp if it only lasts one or 2 runs? with the right cooling, you can have that added benefit on every run. it makes sense to pay for the cooling now so you can enjoy all the added power later.


-

[Papachristou]

Papa, all good things bro.

You have to deal with emissions testing? NH is usually pretty light on laws in general but for some reason they take emissions wicked seriously.

Live free or die.....as long as you have a stock exhaust.

lol, yeah some of the northern states are getting crazy high speeding fines now i heard too, like $1-2k... i live just outside Memphis actually in Arkansas and they dont check anything here.. so many rednecks are running around in pickups with straight pipes, no one bothers to check one little audi if i was in a strict state, i would try to do a relocated HFC to get the cat farther away from the turbo.

Yup, it really does make a huge difference. In the Winter time, it makes a difference too even though it's already cold outside.

nothing like a hard pull on the interstate with a FMIC in winter it pulls so much harder than before!

i'm with you papachristou. the FMIC is a MUST for anything above a standard stage 1. people tend to think only of added power. just as important is retained power. what good is a mod that add 50hp if it only lasts one or 2 runs? with the right cooling, you can have that added benefit on every run. it makes sense to pay for the cooling now so you can enjoy all the added power later.


-

very very true... i think even from the get go, i am making more power because of the cooled air, especially when its nice and cool in the morning or winter. Overall my favorite power mod so far besides the chip/injectors of course..... after running logs before and after i realized how important it was. i was hitting 175-180F IATs in 85F weather. After putting on the Racetec i couldnt get my IATs above 95F

[chadb2434]

I just got my GIAC Stage1+ done Tuesday and I am VERY happy with the gain I got from just the 1. I don't have a FMIC right now but I plan on that and a TIP to be my next mods when when tax return/Obama's Stimulus checks come out!