Clutch Suggestion

[gotboost]

so after months of babying my slipping clutch, its shot completley. Thinking of going Southbend OFE(stage 3). Iam APR stage 1+ with a test pipe. I really dont plan on going stage 3 or even k04. So is that the best clutch i can get for the money, and also who has them for a good price. thanks

[jessefrank]

It seems like a popular choice, but from what I've seen on here you'll get recomendations on the stage 4 and 5.

There's alot of different choices out there for clutches (from oem, oem like, mild to wild) and when you ask people what they recommend you'll get an equally different # of answers. Most people don't go around changing out clutches so have little experience with but a very few at most (except some of the the BT guys).

When I changed out mine I decided that I didn't want to do this again anytime soon. Maybe I'll go bigger than the 1+ I have now...maybe not. Either way I figured go with the strongest (highest torque cap), BUT STILL STREETABLE clutch with in a price limit.

When I was searching around most recommended either the Southbend Stage 4 or 5, even for the lightly modified ( I don't have a SB clutch BTW...RA4 stage 3). I'd reccomend first deciding how much you want to spend on parts. Don't forget to factor in getting your flywheel resurfacted ($ and downtime) or buying a new flywheel (either lightweight or OE Dual mass). Second do you want a Light weight flywheel (there are pro's and con's depending on if you value performance or comfort...generally speaking)? And lastly, is there even the slightlest chance you want to add more performance mods...If so go for a stronger clutch (remember that most clutch advertised HP/TQ holding #'s are at the flywheel and with a properly equipted 1+ setup you are awfully close to the South Bend stage 3 clutch #'s).

[gotboost]

will the tz series(stage 2) work for me

[mdzaudi]

I got a Southbend stg 3. Just do that. The pedal is softer than even the stock clutch and you'll never need anything more if you aren't going to even a K04. A stock dual mass flywheel works fine too whether resurfaced or new and you won't have to worry about chatter that you can sometimes get with lighter flywheels.

[lookaught]

Yeah the SB stage 3 with a resurfaced flywheel is the best bang for the buck, so to speak. If you never plan on going past 1+ then it will be sufficient. The pedal resistance for the stage 4/5 is quite a bit higher... which may be a consideration if you drive in a lot of stop and go traffic.

[Papachristou]

i would say it depends on your driving style, i am pretty hard on it, i like to launch and stuff so i got the FE SS but no reason the OFE HD wouldnt get you by with a stage 1

[mike-2ptzero]

$25 difference between SB stage 2 and stage 3.

[diztek]

im at a lost on clutches. ive hear that the southbend is the way to go, but then i read about how some only lasted 30k miles. i bought my car brand new, ive been k04'd since 18k miles and now I have 72k miles and my clutch doesnt slip, its still good and I drive pretty aggressive but i dont launch. How long does the stage 3 or 4 SB last? Id like a clutch that is a little stiffer, lower engagement point, appropriate for the power I have and more importantly, id like it to last as long as my OEM clutch. Is there such a thing?

[mike-2ptzero]

im at a lost on clutches. ive hear that the southbend is the way to go, but then i read about how some only lasted 30k miles. i bought my car brand new, ive been k04'd since 18k miles and now I have 72k miles and my clutch doesnt slip, its still good and I drive pretty aggressive but i dont launch. How long does the stage 3 or 4 SB last? Id like a clutch that is a little stiffer, lower engagement point, appropriate for the power I have and more importantly, id like it to last as long as my OEM clutch. Is there such a thing?

Like any clutch, its going to matter on your driving style. If you slip it or launch it often dont expect any clutch to last very long.

A performance clutch is made to do one thing and that is hold more power. By doing that it has to give up a little life.

[mdzaudi]

im at a lost on clutches. ive hear that the southbend is the way to go, but then i read about how some only lasted 30k miles. i bought my car brand new, ive been k04'd since 18k miles and now I have 72k miles and my clutch doesnt slip, its still good and I drive pretty aggressive but i dont launch. How long does the stage 3 or 4 SB last? Id like a clutch that is a little stiffer, lower engagement point, appropriate for the power I have and more importantly, id like it to last as long as my OEM clutch. Is there such a thing?

I think there is a DIY on how to adjust your engagement point on the clutch.

[diztek]

Understandable. But what would you consider shortened life, providing I keep the same driving habits.

[mike-2ptzero]

I think there is a DIY on how to adjust your engagement point on the clutch.

Not that I have ever seen. Mainly the engagement point is set by how much pressure and pedal movement is needed to push in the fingers on the pressure plate. A clutch with more preload pressure will take more pedal movement vs a clutch with the same pressure plate with less preload.

[mdzaudi]

Not that I have ever seen. Mainly the engagement point is set by how much pressure and pedal movement is needed to push in the fingers on the pressure plate. A clutch with more preload pressure will take more pedal movement vs a clutch with the same pressure plate with less preload.

Ah ha found it! http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...djustment.html

[old guy]

Ah ha found it! http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...djustment.html

Let me give you a word of caution here. This modification will change your clutch engagement point. However, it does it by adding a preload to your throw out bearing. I did this when I installed my OFE-SS since the clutch caught so low that the gears were dragging. I initially added approximately ¼" of preload. Since then I have adjusted it four more times as the clutch wore in. Each time I shortened it a little more to where I am now back to the stock length. I do NOT recommend this as a permanent modification and I would only use it as i did to make the car drivable. to do otherwise is risking premature wear on your throw out bearing.

[jessefrank]

My RA4 kit came with an extended slave cyl push rod. I'd say about 1/4"-1/2"longer. I didn't measure it before putting it in , but if you you could contact ECS about the specs if you don't want to modify it like in A4 mods. Also it is a one piece, all metal design compared to the metal/plastic stock one.

It worked to move my engement point very near the floor...although I have a modified RS4 pressure plate and different throwout bearing.

[old guy]

My RA4 kit came with an extended slave cyl push rod. I'd say about 1/4"-1/2"longer. I didn't measure it before putting it in , but if you you could contact ECS about the specs if you don't want to modify it like in A4 mods. Also it is a one piece, all metal design compared to the metal/plastic stock one.

It worked to move my engement point very near the floor...although I have a modified RS4 pressure plate and different throwout bearing.

The reason your clutch assembly came with a different rod length is because the RA4 kit has a different stack height than the stock set up. the Southbend series are all developed around the stock stack height. As I stated above I would not recommend this modification unless you are experiencing an engagement problem as I did.

[jessefrank]

The reason your clutch assembly came with a different rod length is because the RA4 kit has a different stack height than the stock set up. the Southbend series are all developed around the stock stack height. As I stated above I would not recommend this modification unless you are experiencing an engagement problem as I did.

I know my clutch is a bit different than a stock one, just wanted to throw it out there that ECS has a 1 piece, extended push rod if anyone is interested in doing this mod and didn't want to do the spacer method...if it is recomended or not that's up to the user to decide what they are willing to do/risk.

[gotboost]

so i was quoted $800 for labor, does that sound right

[old guy]

so i was quoted $800 for labor, does that sound right

If it is a competent shop that you trust the price is reasonable. I have seen ranges from $600 to $1200 posted here. You can always go to Joe's Bar and Grill and Transmission Repair and get it cheaper but you may not be pleased with the results.

[jessefrank]

so i was quoted $800 for labor, does that sound right

...or DIY it and save yourself some $$$$. It is a bit more work than the usual modification, but totally not as hard as A4 Mods makes it out to be; but you know your abilities and tools avaliable.

The stealership quoted me 17hrs labor...which works out to be $1600...just for labor.

[mdzaudi]

Be cautious of who you go to as your mechanic. People that don't specialize in euro's or have never done an audi clutch replacement might screw it up. Hell, when i got mine done, half of the mechanics thought that there was no way in hell to resurface a dual mass flywheel and it just made me suspicious of how much they really knew about replacing an audi clutch.

$800 is about right though.

[gotboost]

yeah, its a competent euro shop, ive price a few indy shops around, and they were all within $50 of each other

[doublezero30]

$800 is a good price. i got quoted $1100 by one shop, then went to another for $650. (the two shops are both very good and i have had work done at both, therefore trusted both.)

[gotboost]

are there going to be any upcoming group buys on the ofe clutch soon

[mike-2ptzero]

SB actually does not allow GB's.