Understood guys. Don't really have to replace the bolts when doing a timing belt. The only one I have replace bolts on to this day is Greg's (actlsub9) because he had new bolts.
In my situation, I have to replace the bolts and the crank pulley because I damaged them. Luckly the threads in the timing belt pulley are still perfectly good so I'm safe. MAJOR disaster on the relatively new motor averted.
This picture below was taken immediately after I pulled the core support off the car. Those two bolts are hand tight.
If my math is correct I drove all of December with the car in this condition. My trip to North Carolina included. This also may have manifested itself around the time the T25 flange gasket blew (right before Thanksgiving). So, an easy 2,000miles at a minimum.
Front to back vibration due to lack of torque on the bolts and, later, lack of bolts caused excessive rub/wear on the aluminum pulley. The timing belt pulley is in perfect shape. The timing belt is perfectly fine as well. Max depth of rub is around 1.5-2mm per my dial calipers.
This is entirely my fault. I did not use loc-tite on these previously used bolts (bare, dry threads) and did not torque them down properly. Good news is it is my engine not a customer of mines.
Jake. Check your email!
Bookmarks