Custom audio set up?? your opinion..

[supersweet]

well iu want to keep my factory cd deck, but my rear speakers behind back seat are blown, shop wants 200$ for each speaker + install. .. the other option is to drop in a 10 in sub that sits flush behind rear seat, using the open air box instaed of a enclosed box.. cost $600.. has any one done this? or have you replaced the rears with something that wont blow out???

[Burtonnboarda]

why dont you just get subs in the trunk and replace your speakers yourself? i think you could do that for cheaper than 600

[mholme]

well iu want to keep my factory cd deck, but my rear speakers behind back seat are blown, shop wants 200$ for each speaker + install. .. the other option is to drop in a 10 in sub that sits flush behind rear seat, using the open air box instaed of a enclosed box.. cost $600.. has any one done this? or have you replaced the rears with something that wont blow out???

If all that's wrong is blown rear speakers, fix them if it's just the dust caps, or replace the speakers and install them yourself. Unless, you really want to burn that kind of money on audio stuff.

[MAKK]

Disconnect them, and install a 10" sub behind the rear seat. You can get a decent amp/sub with install for around $500. Even lower end equipment sounds better than the stock "subs"...

[jibberjive]

Yeah aftermarket stuff blows the pants off the stock stuff, even the relatively low-end aftermarket stuff. Get a decent 10" either in a box in the trunk or go with an infinite baffel install like you're talking about in the rear deck. An Alpine Type R 10 with like 400-600 real watts would be a good budget trunk setup, or an Image Dynamics 10 could be a good budget free-air sub with a little less power. If you do the infinite baffel route, either keep the rear speakers in (unhooked of course) or put some sort of plate to cover the holes if you take them out because you want to seperate the rear wave from coming into the cabin. However, if you do a trunk box setup don't just disconnect the stock bose subs in the rear deck, take them out so some of air can get into the cabin. you can leave the stock grilles on so it'll still look stock. Good luck!

[audirs]

if they are speakers and not a sub that blew, you would still need to put new speakers in there before you do a sub. your sub will drone out your highs as is, and with less speakers working, the less you will hear your highs. get the rears replaced with aftermarket speakers of the same size. if you want to do a sub after that, then do as the above poster said, and put it in a box, in the trunk. my 2 cents

[jibberjive]

if they are speakers and not a sub that blew, you would still need to put new speakers in there before you do a sub. your sub will drone out your highs as is, and with less speakers working, the less you will hear your highs. get the rears replaced with aftermarket speakers of the same size. if you want to do a sub after that, then do as the above poster said, and put it in a box, in the trunk. my 2 cents

He said the speakers behind the rear seats, which are the factory subs, correct? The rear mids/highs are coaxials in the door. I was just saying if he was planning on replacing the stock subs with the same speakers that his money will be far better spent on a real sub. And he can always turn it down, headroom is never a bad thing!

But to the OP, I agree with audirs in that the stock speakers should be replaced too If you're looking for cheap, just get those 2-ohm infinity's that everyone plops in so that they work with your stock bose amp. Once you have a decent stereo in your daily driver, you probably won't go back to keeping the stock stereo in future cars once you know what you're missing.

[audirs]

ahh my bad, misunderstood what he was saying. but yea, jibb is pretty much on the money with what he posted

[wdbdy2000s4]

An Alpine Type R 10 with like 400-600 real watts would be a good budget trunk setup

lol at "real watts." I love how companies have amps that are like 300 watts RMS and 1500 peak. Most amps are rated at 14.4 volts too so the numbers on the box aren't a real indication of the wattage you'll see in your car.

[audirs]

lol at "real watts." I love how companies have amps that are like 300 watts RMS and 1500 peak. Most amps are rated at 14.4 volts too so the numbers on the box aren't a real indication of the wattage you'll see in your car.

so true. some amps though come with a birth certificate that show you exactly what the amp makes at 12v and 14.4.

[jibberjive]

To the OP, I'm actually selling a sub setup right now. Check the link in my sig, though it may be a little more than you're looking for:)

[greenz]

my rear speakers blew. I threw them out. Hooked a high-pass input amp into the wires for them, and did a crossover for subwoofers in the trunk. Didn't even notice them missing. The rear door speakers still give decent imaging for rear highs, and i gained a decent bass setup.

[mmxruffryder15]

i changed the rears nd put a 12in L5 kicker wit a kicker amp nd a vented box for $400 nd that is more than enough....it will blow away any bestbuy stuff out the window