Fiberglass Sub Enclosure

[Burtonnboarda]

So. I was into stereo equipment when i had my WRX but didn't think the a4 would need anything (non bose system), until i got my magnaflow exhaust done, and now I would like some clearer and louder cabin sound. So I will be buying 2 10' pioneer subs and amp very soon and building a custom enclosure.

The idea:

fiberglass a mold into the right side of my trunk, from rear seat to trunk lid and laying a piece of wood, mdf, whatever at a small angle so that the bottom is about 3 inches from wood to mold, and 2 at the top so that i will have enough cubic feet for 2 10's and still be able to fold my rear seats down. Will probably take me about 2 months to build, just because school and work will take time out of my schedule.

Now the problem:

the subs will be too deep to mount equally spaced from each other and proper looking. So I can either, try to mount the 2 subs vertical at the rear end of the trunk(which i might not have enough vertical clearance for), or somehow push the subs out about an inch or two, either with extended rings or just making the wood to mold gap larger.

Pretty stuck on what to do. Subs are 5-5/8 deep. Does anyone have any more ideas? Because I do not want to lose the ability to fold my rear seats down.

Car is 2003 1.8t A4

[B6JoeS4]

i think it would be better to do a single 12" alpine type x and a pdx1.1000 amp along with a 1.0cuft sealed box.

[juggernaut201]

in my b7 i have my l7 kicker mounted into the side walls with fiberglass ... check with the sterio shop .... put one on each side itll b sick

[B6JoeS4]

in my b7 i have my l7 kicker mounted into the side walls with fiberglass ... check with the sterio shop .... put one on each side itll b sick

as long as they are not facing directly at eachother that is fine.

[Burtonnboarda]

Found a great deal on this set up.. 160 new for 2 10's and amp. So I am definantly going with that.

But yes, Juggernaut201. Seperate side boxes would work and still have a clean look, only thing is... the dimensions for both sides are different in how far they go back and it would affect the sound area. Some good research and foam packing could ensure equality, yet that would take a while to do. Nice idea though, if single side goes out the window that will be the plan.

Also:

I just realized with the two seperate sides it will look pretty good with one facing towards the trunk by a couple degrees and the other facing the driver rear seat by a couple degrees. maybe a -10 degree on driver side sub and +10 on passenger side i will not run into air pressure problems and then the space i was going to use on the right side closer to the back seat can be a spot for my amps to sit with a carpeted cover ontop with vents and inside fans for cooling. That way more room can be used from that subwoofer because it wont have to fade into wall, but into the amp box so that they sit evenly and it looks like the wall does not even push forward.


I am in colorado right now and cant take pictures, but i can do a quick paint chop.



The red indicates what i would like to do..
The green is a backup if i cant get my air spaces equal
The blue is the amp cover/rack that would sit flush with the R subwoofer box

[juggernaut201]

yea u can face the sups at an angle both twards the back seats .. sterio shops can do pretty much anything and as for the amp mines mounted under my rear deck have you thought of drilling something o hold it there .... that way you loose no trunk space and it looks cleaaannnnn .... i dunno bout the b6 but on mine the stock sub is in the rear speaker deck ... you could take that out so everything vents into the car aswell

[Burtonnboarda]

i was thinking about putting my amps up there because they would also get more air and be cooler. but i really want my car to look oem+ and because also one inch vertical (amp on rear deck) is a lot harder to do away with for me then one inch horizontal (amp on right wall) because i always load up my car and i do a lot of traveling so the backseats and trunk are filled. and I always run into problems loading bins and things in because they clip the rear deck.

But you definantly did give me some ideas, i hope i will have a clean install. Im pretty good at fiberglass, yet i sometimes get sloppy getting things flush so this will be a challenge for me. its going to take time haha but i have the next 3 weeks off so maybe ill get some good work done there.

[chadb2434]

I made my own fberglass enclosure like Martini's
srry for the messyness

Before


After

[cruzin210]

search for DinoB and "enclosure" or something. He did what you are thinking about.

[Burtonnboarda]

DinoB's looks good but on my right side (passenger) I plan on having the sub box come out a couple more inches, that way where it ends, the amp box can start, and it will look like just a pushed out solid wall with the amps inside, and the sub not poking out.

Does anyone know what those vents are for? I can't really test to see, since i'm nowhere near my car.

If they are functional, i wont run into problems on the passenger side amp rack because I will be drilling vents in the mdf cover so the amps can breathe, and that way it will still vent to the trunk.

But i will have to make some kind of hole in the passenger sub box without breaking the air seal so that the 12v will still be usable, even though I never even use it.

[cruzin210]

As far as I could tell (after I ripped my trunk apart) they serve no purpose.

[Turbo1A4]

check the classified someone has one made already and has a 10 inch jl in it

[Burtonnboarda]

there are a lot of single 10' boxes out but none look how i would want mine to look.

Most people make the mold, build the rings, and give the clearance and wrap and fiberglass, this always gives it a round look. Which is not what I am looking to build.

I would like mine to look flat with the sub sitting almost inside, by cutting the circumfrence of the sub into the wood, and making an inside ring, which will be the 10' part. so it will sit as flat and straight as our trunks already do.

I know this is kind of hard to explain but I guess it means i just need to start working soon then to show everyone.

[martini]

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...tml&category=4

[Burtonnboarda]

See.. Those have the curved outer shell. That is how the last box I built was.
But I am saying that I will tape off, make my mold to fit the trunk, and then instead of making my MDF ring, I will simply lay a piece of wood connecting the top and the bottom of the mold and fiberglass those 2 pieces together. So that when you look at it, It will not have the curve of normal boxes, but a flat wall.

[rickadoe]

burtonnboarda, which car are you making this box for? i like the style of box your talking about. i have a b6 avant i am trying to add 2 subs as well. i have never worked with fiberglass. you guys have any tips? sites? a4mods i checked out but looking for any other suggestions.

[Antoinebourdeau]

I did mine one the right side :D fiberglass was messy but pretty straight forward to work with.. Just take your time and you will be fine.

Here is mine..




Sry for the bad pic but this is where my amp is now ... cant see it unless you bend down..

[Burtonnboarda]

im making this for a b6 a4 sedan.. i didnt think those 2 10's that i got would hit so hard, before i can build all this i need to get rid of all my rattles now!
but ya fiberglass as long as you follow all the directions on most sites you will be good. id check a4mods but just a good google search will pull up some good websites, and you just gotta learn from your mistakes but i need to get working on this.. just too broke because its snowboard season

[1RAudiSQ5]

Sorry.... doing my trunk soon, and I needed this. I know it's old

[AMESSA4_NJ]

you could always run 2 15" L7'S like me =]

[najjar22]

^ That must be loud....

[a4darkness]

Yes, a slightly different approach. You might look into a dual voice coil sub setup... probably a 12" as they usually generate far more sound than a 10" DVC sub. It's a mildly underrated and highly efficient setup, especially when you're looking to conserve space.

I have an Alpine MRP-1000 powering an RE Audio SE Series SE12-D4 12" Dual 4ohm Subwoofer [SE12-D4]

Specs:
Power Handling: 600W/1200W [RMS/Peak]
Sealed Enclosure: 0.75 [compact] 1.0 [optimal]
Ported Enclosure: 1.5@35Hz [compact] 2.0@33Hz [optimal]
Cost: ~$160 online vendors [got mine from MobileSoundWorks.com]

I've had two DVC setups in the past which I was very happy with. After some extensive research + advice on the caraudio.com forums, I landed on RE Audio and have been quite pleased w/the results. Best part is, the box I'm using is one cubic foot and can be easily removed if necessary. It produces a very deep and rich sound... not unlike an old school JL. If I went ported, it would be far louder. But it's not really necessary for me. The wall of clean sound it creates is quite nice.

Hope this helps.

Does anyone have any more ideas?

[doublezero30]

i realize this thread is old but feel the need to shamelessly post a pic of my setup.

[Samir4486]

hey doublezero30 did you make that enclosure or did you get it somewhere, i was looking into doing the same thing so i can have more trunk space