Couple Bose questions. Anyone have an A6 wiring diagram of the harness?

[ENDEE666]

Does anyone have a schematic of the Bose harness at the amp, with color codes? And all speaker wires go from the amp on the factory sub, correct? Is there a separate wire going from the amp to each woofer & each tweeter? Or just one set going to the door, then divided inside the door to the woofer/tweeter?

Also, if anyone has any other useful info for me, its appreciated.. Basically, I am adding an amp & sub along with the Audax door speaker setup in the fronts, still powered by stock amp. Main reason I am hoping there is separate woofer/tweeter wires at the amp is so I can mount the crossovers back by the amp since space is tight inside the doors. Then I can just use the wires that are already run, but now with crossovers since there is none stock..

Thanks to any that can help on this..

[scot_w]

Not quite what you are after but interesting nonetheless.
http://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/591858.phtml

This maybe what you are after:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...ring-help.html

If not I can do a little more searching through my Bookmarks.

[Stampy]

Hope this helps...


And the speakers run an inline crossover pretty much, so its just one full range set from the amp. Nice thing though is that you can just tap the line level inputs that the factory radio put out

[ENDEE666]

Nice thing though is that you can just tap the line level inputs that the factory radio put out

That works! Thanks man. I picked up a nice hi/lo converter I was gonna use, so would I be better off using that and the wires going to the subs or one of the line level ones? I was favoring the speaker level so it doesn't reduce the signal strength going to the Bose amp, since it will still be powering everything else.. Only the sub will be amped (for now at least) so would one be any better to the point you would notice?

thx...

[Stampy]

I just cut a set of RCA's in half and tapped into the front line level inputs. I actually had a hi lo converter I was going to use, but opted to just use the oem stuff. I didn't notice any difference with how the bose stuff sounded. You should also unplug the harness that goes into the bose sub. It sounded weird to me when I just had the regular stuff hooked up + the amp/sub. In fact, you should just remove the bose sub cause its huge and takes up that whole rear right side of the trunk. Probably save you 5lbs at least for the next time you hit the track and make us C5 boys proud.

[ENDEE666]

Hey Stampy- Did you hook up an amp just for a sub or do you have your door stuff amped too? I am at least adding an amp for the sub but I have an extra amp I can use for the doors too if those line levels are clean enough to use for more than just subs.. The components I am adding in the doors will sound WAY better on a proper amp..

Weight wise I think it will be a wash, give or take a few. I am replacing the Bose sub with a 10" but the box will be 1/2 fiberglass & half mdf. Then my amps are going in the spare tire well, which means the weight of the tire itself will be out. Gonna ditch the factory jack too. So the weight of the sub + amp(s) should be close to that of the jack, tire & Bose sub.. Not like the PIG would ever be "Light Weight" anyways.. Tempted to add some dynamat or other sound deadening, but still debating that. Might just add a sheet in the doors for audio improvement and road noise reduction..

And don't worry, I will still keep making us proud.. I am going to be tuning the car with a wide band soon and some dyno tuning.. I am sure there is a few more hp I can squeeze out..

[Stampy]

I only have it hooked up for a sub amp, but you can use it for full range and power everything. I would just try it. Its not a ton of wiring to just see how it sounds if you have everything apart already.

[ENDEE666]

I might.. I know my front components will sound awesome with the better amp as long as the signal quality is clear enough.. Still wanna use the Bose amp for the rears though.

I read something about some wire you need to ground to bypass some Bose processing to accomodate the Bose drivers.. Any idea what thats about?

Thx

[white fish]

where is the sub on that harness?

[Stampy]

I don't know anything about grounding something for the bose. Never heard of that one. Just feeding the line signal to an amp for the fronts would be fine, and then allow you to keep the rears on the bose amp.

The sub has its own harness that comes out of the other side of the amp. A 4 wire harness that plugs into the factory sub unit and powers two 4" drivers. You can just unclip it if you want to turn it off.

[ENDEE666]

Cool. Thanks Stampy. Will post results & maybe a how-to as well. Ordered the last few little things I needed tonight. Weather permitting (been cold lately) I am hoping to get started Thurs-Fri this week.. Probably going to amp the fronts after all..

[chrisbostonusmc]

Yes please do especially pics of what wires at the bose amp you spliced into for the line out converter. I have 2 subs in my trunk waiting to get installed!

[ENDEE666]

Well I will prob not use the hi/lo converter after all and just use the line-level ones since I will be amping my fronts too. But you can splice a hi/lo into the 4 wires of the bose sub wire harness. It comes out of the other side of the amp from the main harness.

[Stampy]

The only problem with splicing into the sub wiring out of the amp is that it has the Bose crossover signal then. So it doesn't get a full range sound, and it pretty much stops the bass from getting any louder at like half volume. It can be done though.

[ENDEE666]

Had no idea about the volume cap, so that just solidifies that I will be using the line level.. I was just chiming that in for "chrisbostonusmc" cause he was looking to add subs..

[Stampy]

YEah man, you can even hear it if you listen for it. Put some bass heavy music on and put it on bump. With Bose, the bass is maxed out at like half volume. It's how they always do stuff....car or home.

[mbagge01]

I was hoping that someone could answer the question on if there is a crossover at the doors separating the signals to the door speaker and tweeter or is a it a full range signal coming from the bose amp to the doors which is then split between the two speakers. I am thinking of replacing the bose amp with an aftermarket one and placing component speakers with an external crossover at the door to improve sound, assuming that would work unless there is a crossover somewhere in the wiring between the bose amp and door wiring.