Cracked Oil Pan

**msbc88** · 12-25-2008 01:42 PM

Happy Holidays to me :( why not change the oil and oil cooler gasket since its half-decent out, everything went cool. Go to tighten up the drain plug like I've done 100x and get a small hairline crack no bigger than your tumb nail I would say. I just dont want to half ass it with JB weld so I guess Im giong to try to change it myself this weekend. I found a used one for cheap (Is a used Pan Ok ?? ) and having the gasket overnight to me. Now I need your guys advice,tips..info. What the best way to go about replacing the oil pan btw its AEB. Is their away around dropping the subframe or can I lower it to get to the bolts ? While the pan is off, should I look out for anything...I plan to clean the oil pickup screen.

Thanks in advance

**kovalevandrew** · 12-25-2008 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by msbc88

Happy Holidays to me :( why not change the oil and oil cooler gasket since its half-decent out, everything went cool. Go to tighten up the drain plug like I've done 100x and get a small hairline crack no bigger than your tumb nail I would say. I just dont want to half ass it with JB weld so I guess Im giong to try to change it myself this weekend. I found a used one for cheap (Is a used Pan Ok ?? ) and having the gasket overnight to me. Now I need your guys advice,tips..info. What the best way to go about replacing the oil pan btw its AEB. Is their away around dropping the subframe or can I lower it to get to the bolts ? While the pan is off, should I look out for anything...I plan to clean the oil pickup screen.

Thanks in advance

I don't see anything wrong with a second hand one. Just check it and make sure it hasn't got any clearly visible damage. Might be a good idea to clean it up first so you'd be able to see any cracks similar to what yours has now.

**Profoxcg** · 12-25-2008 05:51 PM

hi, my dad and I are trying to fix my sisters car, 2001 A4. I noticed that the subframe gets in the way of accesing some bolts in the rear of the oil pan, how hard is it to drop the subframe, will the engine drop as well can car will stand on its front tires?

I am assuming the best thing would be to stand the front of the car on jackstands, take the front wheels off, disconect the front sway bar, then the lower control arms and just take it from there correct?

**T3hD0gg** · 12-26-2008 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

hi, my dad and I are trying to fix my sisters car, 2001 A4. I noticed that the subframe gets in the way of accesing some bolts in the rear of the oil pan, how hard is it to drop the subframe, will the engine drop as well can car will stand on its front tires?

I am assuming the best thing would be to stand the front of the car on jackstands, take the front wheels off, disconect the front sway bar, then the lower control arms and just take it from there correct?

You can do it without lowering the subframe, you just have to raise the engine enough. Completely loosen the side engine mounts. Then, loosen the transmission mounts but don't remove the nuts or bolts for these mounts. That gave me enough room to get the oil pan out with a little twisting and turning of it.

**sean1.8t** · 12-26-2008 07:08 PM

just did this on the lift today. took a bit less than hour and half.

what i did(the jist anyways):

marked the subframe
unbolted all trans/motor mounts from the bottom
unbolted the snub bracket(this is on a B6, not sure if you are able to do that with the AEB.
supported the motor
unbolted the subrame and lowered
replaced pan
repeated steps backwards

it's really not bad to drop the subframe. it usually bolts back up into the same place where it was. but that's what the marks are for.

and the book recomends silicone gasket. not a rubber one

good luck

**Profoxcg** · 12-26-2008 10:01 PM

one of the bolts that hold the pan (the one inside the trasmission case) was stipped... I was thinking of drilling it out, any other suggestions?

in case you are wondering how it got stripped? well - my dad didnt know the flywheel needed to be rotated to expose the bolt...

**sean1.8t** · 12-26-2008 10:29 PM

yeah, that's why i love my LWFW. doesn't need to be rotated.

but yeah, drill it out. then once you get the pan off you can go from there in repairing the threads

**Profoxcg** · 12-27-2008 12:19 PM

ill keep you guys posted. in the future I want to get myself an audi, I currently have a 2008 civic Si which i love working on, previous car was an evo IX, also relatively easy to take apart, but im just scared of audi's based on this A4 (sister's)

**Profoxcg** · 12-30-2008 01:15 PM

okay, got the bolt out, the pan is loose, now what? I lossened the motor mount bolts and transmision, I jacked the trans mission up but i cant get the pan out.. it appears that its hitting the subframe.

**sean1.8t** · 12-30-2008 06:39 PM

you just loosened the motor/trans mounts? i completely unbolted the mounts(from the bottom only) and jacked the motor up quite a bit. also dropped the subframe as it's just a few bolts. if you can't get it out with the subframe dropped, then i would consider that as a solution

**Profoxcg** · 12-30-2008 09:35 PM

I need DIY for dropping the subframe, we manged to take the front bumper out and it was mission, we endup breaking the levers along the front, that attach the bumper to the crash beam, because i have idea how to get them out. also the "sprinklers" that spray water into the hearlights broke... the helms manual i have is horrible.. I need help.