Problems bleeding the clutch

[RolledMySTi]

I am at whits end here. I am putting my motor back in after my stage 3 install. I got the motor in enough to put the slave cylinder in and now I am bleed the clutch. I have tried to bleed the clutch for 3 days now and it's still not right and I need some help. The pedal still does not return all the way up. Last night I was able to get the clutch pedal to return about 3/4 of the way, but not all the way. I have cracked the bleeder so many times it's now starting to strip. I replaced my master cylinder as well so I know there is more air than usual but it shouldn't take 3 days to bleed a damn clutch. I have a pressure bleeder, but at 20 inhg nothing will come out. When I combine that with the pump and hold method I can get fluid to come out, but I can't the damn clutch right. There are no leaks.

What the hell am I doing wrong? How do I get my damn clutch right? I just want to drive my car.

[Tokin]

I had same problem when I was installing my clutch. Do you have an OEM/RS4-style pressure plate with SAC? If so you might need to put a couple of miles on it before the SAC fully adjusts. Within a day after putting everything back together I had totally normal feel.

[Landspd]

Grab another person and bleed it manually. Pump up the pedal a handful of times and hold it down, you may want to start by pumping it by hand first and holding it down. Then crack the bleeder. Tighten the bleeder up, then Real Slow, pull the clutch pedal back up all the way. Then pump by hand again and hold down, open bleeder and then close. Pull it up by hand Real Slow again. Keep doing it by hand until it builds some pressure, then you can start using your foot, but always pull the clutch pedal up real slow, this is the best way to do it.

[RolledMySTi]

Grab another person and bleed it manually. Pump up the pedal a handful of times and hold it down, you may want to start by pumping it by hand first and holding it down. Then crack the bleeder. Tighten the bleeder up, then Real Slow, pull the clutch pedal back up all the way. Then pump by hand again and hold down, open bleeder and then close. Pull it up by hand Real Slow again. Keep doing it by hand until it builds some pressure, then you can start using your foot, but always pull the clutch pedal up real slow, this is the best way to do it.

I've been doing the 2 man pump and hold method, but we just popped the pedal back up. I will try that again pulling the pedal up slowly.

Any other ideas?

[sCeRaXn]

Are you re-using the old slave cyl or did you get a new one? How much fluid have you ran through it so far? These slave cylinders suck balls and break really easily. Have you noticed any fluid leaking out between the trans and motor? Sometimes they go bad but only leak into the bell housing. It took me a long time to get my pedal firm, but it definitely shouldnt take two days lol

When you push the pedal down does it get to a point and stay, or will it stop then slowly drop down to the floor? If so it could be a problem with the MC.

[RolledMySTi]

Are you re-using the old slave cyl or did you get a new one?

Brand new slave cylinder and master cylinder.

How much fluid have you ran through it so far?

I would say maybe a cup at most.

These slave cylinders suck balls and break really easily. Have you noticed any fluid leaking out between the trans and motor?

No leaks anywhere.

When you push the pedal down does it get to a point and stay, or will it stop then slowly drop down to the floor? If so it could be a problem with the MC.

When I put the pedal down it goes to the floor but only comes back about 2/3-3/4 of the way up.

[GetAwayFromMe]

Did you bleed the master cylinder? How are your brakes? Might want to try bleeding some other places other than your slave cyl. You should try to gravity bleed both the slave and master cyl for a while. Crack them both up and leave it drip for a while just make sure that there is enough fluid.

[RedRocketS4]

not sure if you read this already, but Jason is the shit.

EDIT: forgot to pres ctrl+V

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...slave+cylinder

[code7rpd]

I'm in the same boat but after three days I got a firm pedal. The only thing that I find is that the first inch of travel is soft (1 inch of free play) and I do not know if it is normal. I suspect that once the SAC adjusts it wil be okay..i hope.

I had so much airation that it tiook three days to bleed it. Keep at it and pump the pedal slowly to prevent causing more air bubbles in the system.

[Dimcorner]

Took me 2 days for mine to bleed right (although I think it was cuz I didn't tighten the bleeder right). When it was all said and done the pedal had still about 1-2 inches of play before it would push back. After driving for 2 hrs or so it was all fine.

[haus4]

I had the same problem when i put in a new slave. We bled it for hours. We bled it manually the entire time, and when I finally saw fluid coming out the first time we stopped. Then did it 2 more times to make sure. We filled the clutch side of the brake container, probably 2 times. After that we decided it was enough and we had enough. So i started her up and hit the clutch, soft as hell. Pumped it for a little and it got a little better. I had very soft pedal engagement for the first 1-2 inches, but after that it was ok. Then i drove it 400 miles, mainly highway and it was ok. The next time i drove it, it was soft and I was like wtf. Then slowly as i drove it more, the peddle got better, until it wasnt soft anymore. I still had the 1-2 inch play in the beginning some times tho.

Our cars are quite weird when it comes to bleeding the slave. If you see fluid coming out and have run some fluid through the system where you think its enough, I would say your ok. It needs time to adjust and fully get back to the pedal feel your used too.

Dont doubt your self now, after doing a stage 3 install.

[code7rpd]

I just noticed this morning that my bleeder is dripping fluid (like a drop over night). I wobder if I damaged the threads or o rings by loosening and tightening the screw so much. If fluid is dripping out then air is bound to go in......I guess I will have to take the screw off my old one.

[haus4]

I just noticed this morning that my bleeder is dripping fluid (like a drop over night). I wobder if I damaged the threads or o rings by loosening and tightening the screw so much. If fluid is dripping out then air is bound to go in......I guess I will have to take the screw off my old one.

Not to be an ass, but how do you know its your slave? Guilty conscience since you tighten it too much?

Regardless to how you know, I would save that its a smart idea to put the old nut back in. It would save you a drip and who knows what the affects are if it is cracked open. More time but thats always fun.

[code7rpd]

Guilty conscience....true! I had the car on the lift overnight while doing a stage 3 swap and noticed a drip of brake fluid under the transmission this morning. I could see a small swell coming from the bleeder and this was after cleaning the area off last night...I hope the old screw solves the problem as I would hate to have to replace the cylinder which its in the car.

[RedRocketS4]

an inch or so of free play on the top side is normal

[code7rpd]

Does the free play decrease as the clutch wears?

[GetAwayFromMe]

Does the free play decrease as the clutch wears?

No it doesnt, it might fix itself just a lil if you have alot of clutch play but you will still end up with some. If you get in any manual car and press the clutch you will see that it has an inch or so of play before it engages and that is totaly normal.

[RolledMySTi]

No it doesnt, it might fix itself just a lil if you have alot of clutch play but you will still end up with some. If you get in any manual car and press the clutch you will see that it has an inch or so of play before it engages and that is totaly normal.

The inch or so of play doesn't concern me. It's the fact that the pedal doesn't go all the way back up. It sits there an Inch or so way.

[GetAwayFromMe]

You still have air in the lines if the pedal stays down. That sucks that it takes that long to bleed a clutch in our cars. I bled many clutches and it takes minutes before it's ready to go.

[RolledMySTi]

Victory is mine!

Last night I finally finished bleeding my clutch. When you replace both the master and the slave cylinder you have a lot of fluid to bleed. I mean a lot of fluid to bleed to get all the damn air out. I bled the thing so many times, half of them because I didn't know what I was doing and did it wrong, I striped the bleeder screw and had to buy a new slave just for the bleeder screw. I call it a $75 lesson in Audi repair. Thanks 034 for being kick ass, local, having a slave cylinder I could drive by and pick up and for some pointers on what I was doing. Thanks AZ for your help too. Did I mention there was a lot of fluid to bleed?

Here's a couple pointers for anyone else who may have this problem. First use clear tubing to connect to the bleeder screw. I know this sounds obvious to some, but to people like me who don't know what they are doing it wasn't obvious until I had fucked things up. Don't use a vacuum bleeder. They don't work and you will just pull air in from around the bleeder screw confusing and frustrating you. Just follow JHM's proceedure, use clear tubing and have lots of patience. Also you have to turn the bleeder a surprising amount before fluid comes out (One of the reasons I was failing and striped my bleeder screw).