which brakes? long

[Kronic Budz]

ok well i need new rotors, pads, brake lines and just actually HAD to get my fluid changed because it was so nasty. All these things are stock and need to be replaced. Nobody has ever replaced them besides the pads and those arent lookin to hot either. My rotors are super thin and look as if they want to crack, pads are lookin pretty shitty up front and not great in the back. Which ebay brake set should i go with. Im thinking im gunna get stainless steel brake lines but only my fronts really need to be replaced. What would happen if i just replaced the front ones with SS ones and left the rears alone? Would it be pointless to not just do the rears as well? The reason i need to replace them because they are prob mad dirty for 1, and also the fronts are starting to crack bad near the caliper. Would having shitty brake fluid contribute to my ABS system screwing up down the road? Iv heard many abs lights are caused from master cylinders going bad. Why is that?


also, if any of you guys can help me out here, i bet you can answer this as well.

I just got bilstien sport shocks with vogtland sport springs(1.4 drop)
right now i still have a 2-3 finger gap and am sitting 26" from ground to fender. I have drove like 100 miles so far and its been 3 days, how much lower and more "settle" will my suspension get, i was told 3/8 inch in 1-2 days and also a couple weeks, hell even a year haha. but i havent noticed a drop yet really since i first got them on. When i look at other peoples cars on eibach and h&r sport springs they look more slammed then me, almost 1/2 inch, having 1-2 finger gap instead of 2-3 like my state right now.. thanks for the responses. 50 questions i know. all very good questions though.


Both a very good deal for rotors and pads. maybe to good..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...3A1|240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...3A1|240%3A1318

[Kyle H]

Which ebay brake set should i go with.

Unless you want the drilled/slotted look, there is no reason to go with drilled and slotted rotors. They'll cause your pads to wear faster and have a negligible effect on braking performance.

If I were you I'd steer clear of the ebay brake setups and just go with plain rotors and mintex pads from purems.

Front rotors: $100
Rear Rotors: $70
Front Pads: $35
Rear Pads: $30
Total: ~$240

Im thinking im gunna get stainless steel brake lines but only my fronts really need to be replaced. What would happen if i just replaced the front ones with SS ones and left the rears alone?

Can't help you here.

Would having shitty brake fluid contribute to my ABS system screwing up down the road? Iv heard many abs lights are caused from master cylinders going bad. Why is that?

I've never heard of the abs system failing because a master cylinder goes bad. Every case I've heard of has either been a bad wheel speed sensor or a faulty ABS Control Module. It is good form to keep your brake fluid clean in general though.

I just got bilstien sport shocks with vogtland sport springs(1.4 drop)
right now i still have a 2-3 finger gap and am sitting 26" from ground to fender.

Can you post pictures of this setup? I'm at ~25.5" ground to fender height and I can barely fit 2 fingers.... what size tires and wheels are you running? Pics will help the most in this case.

If you need help with any of this stuff just let me know (I'm in san diego too), I've done all of it except brake lines already so it's no big deal. I wouldn't be able to help until the end of january though (going home for xmas ). If you're changing out the pads yourself you're going to need the brake calliper compressor tool from ecstuning or purems might carry it now...

[Kronic Budz]

thanks man, but i really need my brakes done ASAP. im also going home for x mas in a week(bay arreeeaa) and wanted to take a trip to the snow... ill take some pictures tomorrow after i wash my car. Also is braking worse with slotted/driller rotors, i see tons of high performance cars and street bikes with drilled rotors.

[turbo kraut]

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...productID=1162
have those lines

if you just want front
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...&productID=758


bbk i have
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=810

[Kronic Budz]

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...productID=1162
have those lines

if you just want front
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...&productID=758


bbk i have
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=810

thanks those lines look good, but those rotors are way to expensive for me. I need all 4 rotors to. Cant be spendin $300 just for rotors.

[Kyle H]

thanks man, but i really need my brakes done ASAP. im also going home for x mas in a week(bay arreeeaa) and wanted to take a trip to the snow... ill take some pictures tomorrow after i wash my car. Also is braking worse with slotted/driller rotors, i see tons of high performance cars and street bikes with drilled rotors.

haha good stuff.


Braking isn't worse-- but those holes and slots get filled up with brake dust pretty quickly and the only real difference I've heard of them making is that they'll decrease pad life.

Here's some information on stainless lines.

[turbo kraut]

thanks those lines look good, but those rotors are way to expensive for me. I need all 4 rotors to. Cant be spendin $300 just for rotors.

that is the cheapest you will find a bbk


and a stock set will be just as bad

[Kronic Budz]

that is the cheapest you will find a bbk


and a stock set will be just as bad

i totally disagree, i have been quoted by mechanics and seen many oem stock rotors for like $50-$60 each. There is no way i have to spend $600 for front and rear rotors.

[Kronic Budz]

anyone else have any help to contribute? i need to order brakes soon!

[djwimbo]

bbk i have
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=810

That's the brake kit I was explaining with Audi TT caliper Carriers and A8(D2) rotors. Upgrades to a 12.3" rotor instead of the stock 11.3"

It's $300 for the caliper carriers and new Zimermann rotors. That's a pretty decent deal. I think I paid $350, but I got slotted rotors.

... word to the wise, don't buy cross drilled. Unless you're buying Carbon Ceramic Brakes, like what's on a Gallardo.

[urban96]

stock replacement pads/rotors

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=2789

[lotusgardener]

Slots are in rotors to clean gunk and dust that may accumulate on the rotor surface and attach to the pad.

Drilling is in there to increase the cooling (more surface area for heat to dissipate)

The point of stainless steel lines is to prevent the expansion of the line during hard braking.

If you want to replace your setup, go to your local auto parts store and get rotors, just get a good set of pads to go along with them. If you're on a budget and need new lines, might as well just replace them with rubber lines, unless you plan on upgrading anytime soon.

[Kyle H]

Slots are in rotors to clean gunk and dust that may accumulate on the rotor surface and attach to the pad.

Drilling is in there to increase the cooling (more surface area for heat to dissipate)

Grassroots Motorsports:
"Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

Power Slot:
"At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today's elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process."

Wilwood:
Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/brakecdrill.html

[le91688]

Awe tuning has a kit on sale.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250996

[gsverz]

stock replacement pads/rotors

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=2789

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=3379

i think this is better...

[Ghostrider]

I got Autozone premium pads and rotors for under $300. You may want to look into them.

[djwimbo]

Kyle hit that one on the head.

Only thing I'd add to that, the "gassing out" as they call it CAN still occur. If you buy a cheap brake pad they will still have that effect.

"Cheese graters" is a bit of an overstatement though. It doesn't really bite in like a cheese grater does, it just allows for the pad material(dust) to escape more freely. In turn I guess it would increase wear, but not significantly.