20 Steps To B7 Brakes

**KMc** · 10-28-2009 08:10 AM

Originally Posted by DoThisMyWay

The 2 guide bolts under the dust caps on the back of the caliper (near the 4 torx bolts) could be taken out to remove the whole caliper instead of disassembling the caliper in half.

If I am seeing this correctly, your suggestion of removing the guide bolts would allow the caliper body to be removed, leaving the pad carrier still bolted in place. The pads can be removed/replaced and then the caliper body re-installed on top? Do you know what size tool is needed to remove the guide bolts?

**KMHPaladin** · 10-28-2009 08:34 AM

Replacing the pads with our caliper is straightforward and relatively simple (though not as easy as with Porsche calipers).

Remove caliper retaining clip, remove slide pin dust caps, loosen slide pins with 7mm hex socket (they just need to come out to the end of the dust cap). Spread caliper from carrier with screwdriver to get clearance, pull off caliper, done.

Be sure to remove the cap on your brake fluid reservoir if retracting pistons.

http://audiworld.com/tech/wheel137.shtml

**KMc** · 10-28-2009 08:56 AM

Originally Posted by KMHPaladin

Replacing the pads with our caliper is straightforward and relatively simple (though not as easy as with Porsche calipers).

Remove caliper retaining clip, remove slide pin dust caps, loosen slide pins with 7mm hex socket (they just need to come out to the end of the dust cap). Spread caliper from carrier with screwdriver to get clearance, pull off caliper, done.

Be sure to remove the cap on your brake fluid reservoir if retracting pistons.

http://audiworld.com/tech/wheel137.shtml

Excellent. Thank you!

**adam's rotors** · 11-10-2009 09:48 AM

shoulda replaced them with adam's rotors first!

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322963

www.adamsrotors.com

**yimstab7** · 01-14-2010 04:59 PM

my luck no pics when i need to do it

**Pandoro** · 03-15-2010 04:55 PM

sorry if this was already touched on but it doesnt seem clear to me. Instead of disassembling the caliper, there are 2 bolts that can be taken out in order to remove the caliper as a whole. What tool is needed in order to remove those two bolts? is it torx? hex? something else? Thanks in advance for all your help.

**Latin Audi** · 03-29-2010 10:03 AM

For those wondering about doing the rears. It is basically the same, (pistons screw in, not pushed in like the fronts) you just need to rent a tool such as this:

The two bolts that hold the caliper assembly in are a bitch to get to and they are on there tight! To retract the piston, I re-assembled the caliper + caliper assembly without the rotor. I did this to make it easier to screw the piston in vs it dangling from the brake line. This is shown in the picture below:

**Latin Audi** · 03-29-2010 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by Pandoro

sorry if this was already touched on but it doesnt seem clear to me. Instead of disassembling the caliper, there are 2 bolts that can be taken out in order to remove the caliper as a whole. What tool is needed in order to remove those two bolts? is it torx? hex? something else? Thanks in advance for all your help.

The two bolts that hold the caliper assembly are held in by two 8mm allen bolts. They are very tough to get to, good luck!

**Jer** · 03-29-2010 10:08 AM

Why do you need to rent a tool kit? All you need is a C-clamp and the old pad to retract the piston. Just slowly compress the old pad back to the caliper using a C-clamp which will push the piston back into place. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir just in case the brakes were bled and fluid topped off before the pads were replaced new. If this is the case use a turkey baster type device to remove fluid as needed as you compress the pistons back into place. Then swap the new pads in place and you're good to go w/o any special tools needed.

**Latin Audi** · 03-29-2010 10:43 AM

Because the rear pistons screw in, unlike the fronts.

**98ggti** · 03-29-2010 10:55 AM

yeah, you have to push the piston in and turn it. There are two little notches on the piston. You can either use the tool, or a c-clamp and some needle nose pliers, but I wouldn't suggest the pliers. Its a pain in the ass.

**Latin Audi** · 03-29-2010 10:59 AM

^ Yep. Especially if your pads are well worn, as mine were, it might take quite a bit of force to screw/push them back. The tool I borrowed made it 10x easier.

**illegitimus** · 03-29-2010 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by Latin Audi

^ Yep. Especially if your pads are well worn, as mine were, it might take quite a bit of force to screw/push them back. The tool I borrowed made it 10x easier.

I wonder if an auto parts store can lend this tool, like AutoZone? I am also considering buying one. From what I can see it's got different size plates to fit other vehicles, correct? I've done brakes on toyota/lexus and there were no need for a special tool, luckily. Is it mainly on Euro cars?

**Scout** · 03-29-2010 07:31 PM

I think most auto parts stores should lend you this tool. I rented a kit from O'Reilly that looks just like the one above. Latin Audi is right that the two 8mm bolts are a bitch. I fought with the top one (which is the easier one) for an hour, got frustrated, and quit. I got worried that I was putting too much stress on the stuck bolt that the head might pop off, or that the hex head would round off. I'll probably just take my pads and rotors to the dealer. Hopefully they won't have an issue with installing pads and rotors that I provide. I did spray a bunch of penetrating oil on the bolts, so I might give it one more try when my attitude improves. I hope you have better luck than I did.

**Latin Audi** · 03-30-2010 06:24 AM

Originally Posted by illegitimus

I wonder if an auto parts store can lend this tool, like AutoZone? I am also considering buying one. From what I can see it's got different size plates to fit other vehicles, correct? I've done brakes on toyota/lexus and there were no need for a special tool, luckily. Is it mainly on Euro cars?

Yea I borrowed it from O'reillys auto parts (Texas). It has many sized plates for different cars but not sure if its mainly European cars.

**carguy138** · 03-31-2010 05:34 PM

I just purchased everything to do the brakes on my A4 except for new rotors and plan to tackle the installation this weekend along with suspension. The rotors I have are not that worn even though the car has 46k miles. I was under the impression that I could simply take some 1600 grit sand paper along with some stones to remove any built up crap on the rotors (no high spots). After reading though this thread is seems like I should be purchasing a new set of rotors. Any truth to this? I am installing hawk HPS pads along with Motul 600 brake fluid.

This is according to Tire Rack and makes some sense...

"IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.

While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable."

I've done many brake jobs on my dirt bike and mountain bike (Hayes hydraulic), so the same principles apply.

Also how are the ECS and zimmermann rotors on ecs? The ECS rotors are either slotted or slotted/drilled and the zimmermanns look similar to the OEM's. If there is a significant performance increase I would consider going with the ECS slotted/drilled rotors. If they are merely for looks in this application, then I'll pass and go for the OEMs. Is there a reasonable chance I would experience damage with them on the track and will they make a significant reduction in brake fade?

**Jer** · 03-31-2010 05:57 PM

Call around your area and see who turns rotors. Pay $5-$10 per rotor and save the life of your pads and increase braking performance. Using sandpaper to attempt to turn rotors yourself is a horrible idea. Order a spare set of rotors to keep on hand for when they tell you that your rotors are too thin. When that happens swap them out.

**bug** · 05-02-2010 08:59 AM

For those wondering about doing the rears. It is basically the same

I did my fronts a month or two ago, and just went to do the rears today. Had the tool to screw the piston back in and everything, but I got stuck because there doesn't seem to be enough room to remove the bottom bolt on the caliper without getting the emergency brake stuff back there out of the way... No one brought this up as an issue, so maybe i'm just dense, but how do you get that bottom bolt to clear the e-brake?

**Unleaded20T** · 05-15-2010 08:11 PM

Guys, i gotta tell you this is a wonderfull and well documented DIY and i hate to do this but i just replaced my pads but i still have the brake pad wear indiciator on my dashboard and i cant find a way to get rid of it..

Help!

**illegitimus** · 05-15-2010 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by Unleaded20T

Guys, i gotta tell you this is a wonderfull and well documented DIY and i hate to do this but i just replaced my pads but i still have the brake pad wear indiciator on my dashboard and i cant find a way to get rid of it..

Help!

did you reconnect the sensor wire?

**Unleaded20T** · 05-16-2010 05:19 PM

Originally Posted by illegitimus

did you reconnect the sensor wire?

Yes, that i did. I also checked the rear pads but they are more than 50%. I've searched the webb for a solution, some people with similar problem and they recommend to disconnect the battery to let the computer reboot but i am hesistant because i dont think that it will fix the problem.

**illegitimus** · 05-31-2010 06:21 PM

Originally Posted by Unleaded20T

Yes, that i did. I also checked the rear pads but they are more than 50%. I've searched the webb for a solution, some people with similar problem and they recommend to disconnect the battery to let the computer reboot but i am hesistant because i dont think that it will fix the problem.

well, I did my fronts this weekend and the brake indicator disappeared the moment I started driving to bed the brakes in. So, there's definitely something not right with yours. One thing could be that the sensor wire came out of the pad if you did not wire it properly around and behind the brake caliper carrier and the brake line. I don't know if you could put the car on a lift and reach with your hand to feel where the wire is if it is loose or not. Otherwise, you need to take your wheels off.

**Heratik** · 07-30-2010 06:02 PM

Great writeup, had the chance to use it today. You should add that there is a good chance you'll need a drill for the T27 Torx screw. I really wish they would stop using these damn things, they are so aggravating.

Used Zimmermann rotors and Akebono euro pads btw. I'm looking forward to dust free running.

**Spiff69** · 08-18-2010 08:21 AM

My local shop told me today that he recommends against turning Audi rotors, that he doesn't even know of someone who will refinish them - that you should replace them or leave them be as long as they are not too thin. Is that a bad idea? Has anyone replaced just the pads?

**Jer** · 08-18-2010 08:46 AM

Originally Posted by Spiff69

My local shop told me today that he recommends against turning Audi rotors, that he doesn't even know of someone who will refinish them - that you should replace them or leave them be as long as they are not too thin. Is that a bad idea? Has anyone replaced just the pads?

What reasoning did he give you? I bet he sells new rotors, right?

**adam's rotors** · 08-18-2010 09:50 AM

keep us in mind!

**Spiff69** · 08-18-2010 06:45 PM

Originally Posted by Jer

What reasoning did he give you? I bet he sells new rotors, right?

Well, let me first say that I really like this shop - they have treated me really, really well.

However, he said that german rotors are too hard to refinish and that he didn't know of anyone in the area that would do it. I don't think he was trying to sell new rotors necessarily. He said he would only recommend replacing them if he measured them and found them to be too thin.

**Jer** · 08-18-2010 09:53 PM

Originally Posted by Spiff69

Well, let me first say that I really like this shop - they have treated me really, really well.

However, he said that german rotors are too hard to refinish and that he didn't know of anyone in the area that would do it. I don't think he was trying to sell new rotors necessarily. He said he would only recommend replacing them if he measured them and found them to be too thin.

I hate people that perpetuate the thought that just because something is made in Germany it's automatically more expensive to repair and work on. The bottom line is that rotors are rotors man. Steel is steel and ANY rotor can be turned until it's no longer thick enough to be safe. Period. Some that are slotted or drilled require a specific stone to turn but if you're just talking flat slugs any basic rotor turning lathe will turn any rotor... Audi included. I'm sure the place you go to is wonderful but he's misinformed on this particular topic. If I were you I would double check just about anything he says from here on out to be safe. It is your car and your money after all. Just because a guy is nice and has been in business for a while doesn't mean he knows what he's doing... he just knows more than most. I had an 'Audi guy' accost me in the parking lot at the indoor gun range the other day. He told me that if I needed anything to call him and handed me some business cards. Said he was big into Audis and knew them inside and out. Oh really? I asked. He says 'Yeah, I just did a quad turbo on an A6 and that thing would flat MOVE!' He rattled on about some more nonsensical bullshit and I politely nodded for a few minutes and then interrupted some BS story to tell him we had to get to our appointment (Chick-Fil-A). The point is that a majority of the population would have bought that load hook line and sinker. Educate yourself to avoid trusting your car/money to someone just because they sound like they know what their talking about and you don't know any better.

**adam's rotors** · 08-18-2010 09:58 PM

Originally Posted by Jer

I hate people that perpetuate the thought that just because something is made in Germany it's automatically more expensive to repair and work on. The bottom line is that rotors are rotors man.

...and that they are god's gift to manufacturing.
not everything german is top quality...not everything asian made is crap.
/rant & vent...well put tho, it's refreshing.

**Spiff69** · 08-18-2010 10:45 PM

I like that you prioritize Chick Fil'A as an appointment :)

Thanks for the advice. I guess I may have to look around. My sensor on the fronts just went off three days ago, but I'm waiting on the pads to come in. It seems that the consensus is that not refinishing the rotors will wear the pads down prematurely?

Adam - I'm assuming all the prices and options are updated on your site? What is your turnaround time from time of order?

**zhemel** · 08-18-2010 10:53 PM

I dont know that I have ever seen brakes done this way. I have always taken the calipers off in one piece. Learn something new everyday

**Jer** · 08-18-2010 11:31 PM

Originally Posted by Spiff69

I like that you prioritize Chick Fil'A as an appointment :)

Thanks for the advice. I guess I may have to look around. My sensor on the fronts just went off three days ago, but I'm waiting on the pads to come in. It seems that the consensus is that not refinishing the rotors will wear the pads down prematurely?

Adam - I'm assuming all the prices and options are updated on your site? What is your turnaround time from time of order?

Yes, simply throwing new pads on w/o turning rotors will cause pads to wear substantially faster than on turned or new rotors.

**adam's rotors** · 08-18-2010 11:36 PM

spiff, yes they are...click ORDER HERE for pricing.
...AR is custom made to order, 2-3 weeks upon payment.

**ToyCeli22** · 08-20-2010 12:42 PM

Great write up! I tried to give this a go last weekend only to find out that the rotors i had ordered did not have the smaller hole for the torx screw.

These are the ones i had ordered but the ones i received look a tad different.
http://www.europaparts.com/brake-rot...0615301ad.html

How important is it to have that hole and torx screw? Should I send them back?

TIA!

**carguy138** · 08-20-2010 01:35 PM

Just swapped out my Hawk Plus pads (track day) to my Hawk HPS's the other day and noticed today they are squealing a bit if I hit the brakes in the same repeatable manner. Guess I have to rip it apart again and re-grease everything damnit. By the way Hawk Plus pads are AWESOME, but unfortunately they squeal like a pig in shit.

**illegitimus** · 08-20-2010 04:29 PM

Originally Posted by ToyCeli22

Great write up! I tried to give this a go last weekend only to find out that the rotors i had ordered did not have the smaller hole for the torx screw.

These are the ones i had ordered but the ones i received look a tad different.
http://www.europaparts.com/brake-rot...0615301ad.html

How important is it to have that hole and torx screw? Should I send them back?

TIA!

some say that set screw isn't really needed. I would probably agree, since the rotor is firmly clamped by the lug bolts to the wheel hub anyway. I am a stickler for doing things right, so I would probably get the right rotors if I were you.

**adam's rotors** · 08-25-2010 02:16 PM

^ it's not needed...period.
it's a set screw purely in place for installation ease.
screw in, holds the rotor in place on the hub while you complete the brake job and/or mount the wheels.
it does nothing once the wheel is mounted.

**redfred** · 10-23-2010 01:49 PM

The audiworld instructions are the ones to follow. This was one of the easiest brake jobs I've done.

**-drifty-** · 11-21-2010 02:09 AM

I did my rear pads

and now finally got around to posting B7 A4 rear brake pad swap instructions, with pictures!

**aaron1085** · 11-21-2010 06:26 AM

I'm looking at upgrading my brake lines. Do I need anything special for this? I've been told some cars have to disable the ABS system using a VAG tool in order to install new SS brake lines...