20 Steps To B7 Brakes

[Asimko]

First I just want to say I am not an expert, but the following steps worked for me. I take no responsibility for any damages to your vehicle or parts within.


I have searched many forums looking for a DIY for the B7 body style but found nothing. To try and help others I decided to make one myself, so here you go.


Tools needed:
1. Vehicle Jack
2. Jack Stands
3. 17mm Socket
4. 14mm Socket
5. T55 Torx Socket
6. 21mm Socket
7. C-Clamp or Large Pliers
8. T27 Torx Socket
9. Rubber Mallet
10. Lithium Grease
11. Brake Clean
12. Air Tools (For Ease of Install)



Step One: Jack up the car and support it with jack stand(s).

Step Two: Remove the wheel(s) using a 17mm Socket.
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Step Three: Remove the 14mm bolt holding the Pad sensor bracket on the back of the caliper. This step is not necessary but I found it helps with maneuvering tools better.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Four: Remove (4) T55 bolts on the back of the caliper.
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Step Five: Remove the front half of the caliper
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Step Six: Tilt the brake pad spring forward using the two ends of the spring. Wiggle it back and forth while tilting it forward and it should pop out. Once it is off the pad should push out easily. Take this time and remove any excess brake dust from the front half of the caliper by using some brake clean and a rag.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Seven: Remove (2) 21mm bolts from the back of the caliper. This step will free the remaining caliper assembly from the vehicle so have a jack stand waiting to rest it on.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Step Eight: Remove the T27 Torx screw that holds the rotor in place.
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Step Nine: Even with the screw removed the rotor most likely will not come off. Take a rubber mallet and hit the lower half until it breaks free. Do not hit it to hard, just slowly increase pressure until it breaks free.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Ten: If you have air tools I suggest you use a whiz wheel on the rotor mounting surface to clear away any rust build up.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Eleven: With either a C-Clamp or large pliers compress the caliper piston. I found leaving the old pad on until after this step makes it easier to compress the piston. Before you start to compress the piston open the hood and remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir. Pack some old rags around the reservoir to catch any excess brake fluid.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Twelve: You can now remove the center section of the caliper. Pull forward and the brake pad should come with it (The pad sensor wire will still be connected, go to next step.). The piston will remain where it is until the pedal is depressed.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Thirteen: To remove the sensor wire, insert a thin screw driver into small hole on the bracket. Unplug the connector, then rotate it and pull up. Pay attention to where the wire tracks for when you have to run the new one.
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Step Fourteen: Take the center section and clean it off like you did with the front section. Once it is clean apply a little lithium grease to the two pistons.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Fifteen: Take the new pad and plug it in while keeping in mind the way it was routed before. After your plugged in insert the center section and then snap the pad into place. (Sorry no pic)

Step Sixteen: Take the new rotors and a can of brake clean and proceed to clean the rotors. I used a very
mild piece of sandpaper because there was overspray from when the factory painted the center section of the rotor.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Seventeen:After you mount the new rotors and tighten the T27 rotor screw, bolt the rear section of the caliper back on using the (2) 21mm bolts.
[IMG][/IMG]

Step Eighteen: Take the new pad and snap it into the front section of the caliper, making sure that the pad is positioned properly. Now remount the front half of the caliper to the rest and hand tighten the (4) T55 bolts.

Step Nineteen: Take the caliper spring and reinsert it onto the caliper. Make sure the tab on the spring reinserts into the brake pad clip. Make sure you tighten everything back together including the sensor bracket and then remount the wheel

Step Twenty: . All that is left is to close the brake reservoir and hood, pump the brakes to get pressure, and take her for a test drive.



This DIY is for the front brakes, but from what I understand the rears are the same except for the needing a caliper tool. When it comes time to do the rears I will add pics.

I hope everyone approves because like I said I'm no expert. Please let me know if I missed anything.

[cstarky15]

holy crap. Nice write up

[apatchin]

nice writeup. thanks.

[nimski62]

Thanks! mods should put this in the DIY sections for all the b6 cars and b7 cars.

[jahciple]

Nioce write up. DYI Worthy!!!

[bcramer]

Nice DIY.

Plus 1 rep for you.

[Asimko]

Thanks for the comments and reps, I'm just glad to help.

[Asimko]

Bump for DIY page

[Who Needs 8]

I could have used this a couple months ago.

[Asimko]

Sorry, necessity is the mother of invention and it wasn't necessary for me until now. Wish I could have helped you though.

[Sanjman]

awesome DIY! but i was told that I have to bleed the brakes and while at it should flush the brake fluid... any thoughts on that?

[DoThisMyWay]

The 2 guide bolts under the dust caps on the back of the caliper (near the 4 torx bolts) could be taken out to remove the whole caliper instead of disassembling the caliper in half.

[barkerd427]

^^^exactly, but otherwise an excellent write up.

[artinmoTTion]

excellent, thank you.

[bloodstar57]

The 2 guide bolts under the dust caps on the back of the caliper (near the 4 torx bolts) could be taken out to remove the whole caliper instead of disassembling the caliper in half.

yup

[golfvdude]

should be a sticky in the B7 A4 forum on all B7 diy's.

[D-techniK]

Awesome write up! When do you plan on doing rears?

[Subaru71]

anyone have the torque specs for the bolts?

[supamannn99]

great writeup!! definitely will use when i get new rotors.

how bout sticky this?

[Mikey_C]

This DIY is for the front brakes, but from what I understand the rears are the same except for the needing a caliper tool. When it comes time to do the rears I will add pics.

Great right up, will be a big help when I do the rear pads this weekends.

By caliper tool do you mean a piston retractor?

[barkerd427]

Yes it is a piston retractor. The rears are different, obviously, but they aren't hard.

[lokeh]

thanks for the writeup, nicely done!

did anyone ever post a rear writeup? or pretty much can go by this.

newb at installing brakes, but you don't need to bleed the brake lines for this at all? I was going to venture doing the rotors and brakes in near future. :)

[fly300kts]

You need a special tool to retract the piston on the rear brakes

[swsherif]

are there any torque spec's for all the above, plus do you have to replace the sensor wire after you unplug it, thanks , and very nice thread

[swsherif]

I am wondering if I have to change the rotors every time I replace the brake pads, like right now I have a brake warning for the brake pads and I am going to replace it but when I touched the rotors, I found them smooth and not that thin, do you guys recommend changing the rotors any way, they are not cheep, but I don’t mind replacing them if it’s recommended.

another question, what is the best repair manual I should have and here to buy it, thanks

[Jer]

I am wondering if I have to change the rotors every time I replace the brake pads, like right now I have a brake warning for the brake pads and I am going to replace it but when I touched the rotors, I found them smooth and not that thin, do you guys recommend changing the rotors any way, they are not cheep, but I don’t mind replacing them if it’s recommended.

another question, what is the best repair manual I should have and here to buy it, thanks

Turning your rotors is not the same thing as changing your rotors.

[swsherif]

Turning your rotors is not the same thing as changing your rotors.

I know that, I am not going to turn it

[Jer]

I know that, I am not going to turn it

Why wouldn't you?

[swsherif]

Why wouldn't you?

oH I see what you saying, you are saying machining the rotors instead of replacing them, that's a good point, I just said machining is going to cost money as well plus the rotors are not that expensive they are like 1169$ made in Germany from the dealer, and the car is not old I would like to keep every thing in a good shape as long as I am going to do the work my self, I am not going to go cheep, and by the way I just finished the brake yesterday, every thing went well except the spring bracket on the brake caliper , it took me long time to remove it, but it’s ok now, plus I had to tight every thing up to 95 in/lb, I just was guessing I didn’t have any torque spec to go with, and I wanted to tight every thing to an equal torque, I didn’t have any oil came out of the brake oil container.

[Jer]

You need to have the rotors turned EVERY time you change the pads. If you don't you will trash the pads in short order or worse. At some point they will be too thin to turn (as based on specifications which the place turning them will have) and you will have to replace them. There's really no reason to replace them otherwise and doing so is just wasting money. Buy some rotors and put them in the garage and take yours in to have turned and when they are to thin to turn change them out with the rotors you already have. As for paying $1,169 for a set of rotors... I only hope that's not US dollars because someone is making a TON of money off of you.

[swsherif]

You need to have the rotors turned EVERY time you change the pads. If you don't you will trash the pads in short order or worse. At some point they will be too thin to turn (as based on specifications which the place turning them will have) and you will have to replace them. There's really no reason to replace them otherwise and doing so is just wasting money. Buy some rotors and put them in the garage and take yours in to have turned and when they are to thin to turn change them out with the rotors you already have. As for paying $1,169 for a set of rotors... I only hope that's not US dollars because someone is making a TON of money off of you.

i am ver very sorry it was a typo i ment $116.00 Canadian, and i like your idea about machining the rotors and keep them for when ever i need them , thanks ans sorry for the typo

[swsherif]

You need to have the rotors turned EVERY time you change the pads. If you don't you will trash the pads in short order or worse. At some point they will be too thin to turn (as based on specifications which the place turning them will have) and you will have to replace them. There's really no reason to replace them otherwise and doing so is just wasting money. Buy some rotors and put them in the garage and take yours in to have turned and when they are to thin to turn change them out with the rotors you already have. As for paying $1,169 for a set of rotors... I only hope that's not US dollars because someone is making a TON of money off of you.

Talking about turning the rotors, do you know the minimum rotor thickness after turning? thanks

[Jer]

Talking about turning the rotors, do you know the minimum rotor thickness after turning? thanks

No, your local shop that does rotor turning can tell you. There's really no reason to know what that is sitting here at your computer anyway since you won't be turning the rotor yourself. They will measure to make sure it's within compliance and then turn until completely resurfaced (no more lines or gouges) and then measure again. Law requires a minimum thickness for safety reasons so if you run your pads too long or get a rock stuck or something of that nature you can see how a rotor is quickly ruined since the whole thing doesn't have to be damaged, just one section deep enough that it can't be turned out.

[swsherif]

No, your local shop that does rotor turning can tell you. There's really no reason to know what that is sitting here at your computer anyway since you won't be turning the rotor yourself. They will measure to make sure it's within compliance and then turn until completely resurfaced (no more lines or gouges) and then measure again. Law requires a minimum thickness for safety reasons so if you run your pads too long or get a rock stuck or something of that nature you can see how a rotor is quickly ruined since the whole thing doesn't have to be damaged, just one section deep enough that it can't be turned out.

thanks for your help , I will take my old rotors today for turning and keep them

[Jer]

thanks for your help , I will take my old rotors today for turning and keep them

That's a good idea. Turning will usually set you back about $10USD per rotor so it's quite a bit cheaper than buying a new rotor which is over 5x more expensive.

[adamc514]

are there any torque spec's for all the above

"Brake System
47 - Brake hoses and brake lines Tightening torques
Brake caliper FNR-G60 (front)
Brake caliper to brake carrier 30 Nm
Brake carrier to wheel bearing housing 190 Nm
Bleeder valve to brake caliper 10 Nm
Bleeder valve to brake caliper FNR-G60 15 Nm
Hydraulic unit with bracket to longitudinal member (Bosch 8.0) 10 Nm
ABS sensors to wheel bearing housing 10 Nm
Splash plates to wheel bearing housing 10 Nm

Rear brake caliper C41/C43 (rear)
Brake hose to brake caliper (banjo union with banjo bolt) 38 Nm
Brake caliper to brake carrier 35 Nm
Brake carrier to wheel bearing housing 75 Nm"

Some torque specs from my Bentley repair manual

[swsherif]

"Brake System
47 - Brake hoses and brake lines Tightening torques
Brake caliper FNR-G60 (front)
Brake caliper to brake carrier 30 Nm
Brake carrier to wheel bearing housing 190 Nm
Bleeder valve to brake caliper 10 Nm
Bleeder valve to brake caliper FNR-G60 15 Nm
Hydraulic unit with bracket to longitudinal member (Bosch 8.0) 10 Nm
ABS sensors to wheel bearing housing 10 Nm
Splash plates to wheel bearing housing 10 Nm

Rear brake caliper C41/C43 (rear)
Brake hose to brake caliper (banjo union with banjo bolt) 38 Nm
Brake caliper to brake carrier 35 Nm
Brake carrier to wheel bearing housing 75 Nm"

Some torque specs from my Bentley repair manual

thanks a lot for your help, I think those Bentley repair manual come handy, aren't they?

[skibumdc]

Why disassemble the entire caliper and them remove it from the carrier?

Wouldn't it be easier to
1) remove the sensor wire,
2) remove (2) 21mm bolts to get the caliper off of the carrier and zip tie out of the way
3) remove pad sensor wire and outside pad
4) push back piston with inside pad
5) remove old rotor and either turn at shop, or replace with new rotor
6) replace sensor wire and pads and then mount back to caliper carrier with (2) 21mm bolts?

[vincent9993]

After my week-end at the track, I thought it would be a good idea to get new pads and discs in anticipations of replacing them soon.

I was looking at ECS website and there are quite a few options for pads and discs on their site for B7 A4 3.2.

Can someone tell me what the OEM disc and pads are on the ECS site?

[felondnb]

Thanks dude - that's exactly what I was after!

Nice one