N75, MBC,and EBC....on GTRS

[ziggituning]

I was wondering if anyone had any info on what works best on GTRS set ups using revo and 550 injectors:

N75 stock with MBC
Moded N75 (ECS race n75 FOR EXAMPLE)
No N75 and only MBC
N75 with nothing else
EBC

Of course the different solutions vary in cost, but the bottom line for me is smooth operation, and reliability, any suggestions?
I am not looking for a how to, but more a discussion or comparison among the different types of setups, pros and cons on a typical GTRS set up.

[Audi Skate Snow]

I ran a MBC with the stock n75 looped and plugged in. it had no problems at all with the GTRS. Car had no problem pulling 12 second passes and running like a champ...

ahhhh those were the days...

[widgget]

my N75 wasn't allowing me to boost very high, went to a MBC a week ago, boost comes on fast and hard but it's not too bad with the GTRS since you can run it under 3k for casual driving and then as soon as you get above 3k you get pressed back into your seat pretty hard.

[ziggituning]

how were you looped, meaning tapped into the 2 line coming out of the N75 therefore running the 2 together, or just looping the 2 outer connections on the N75 (connecting together with a small hose), and running the MBC directly to the lines taken off of the N75. therefore leaving the n75 connected to the tip and the electrical connection only

[dougyfresh]

my N75 wasn't allowing me to boost very high, went to a MBC a week ago, boost comes on fast and hard but it's not too bad with the GTRS since you can run it under 3k for casual driving and then as soon as you get above 3k you get pressed back into your seat pretty hard.

What boost setting where you on with the N75?

I think with the MBC you want boost = 9

[Audi Skate Snow]

how were you looped, meaning tapped into the 2 line coming out of the N75 therefore running the 2 together, or just looping the 2 outer connections on the N75 (connecting together with a small hose), and running the MBC directly to the lines taken off of the N75. therefore leaving the n75 connected to the tip and the electrical connection only

yea just connect them together with a small vacum hose, leave the other part still plugged in to your TIP and then leave the wire harness connected.

boost comes a lot faster, but you might get a bit of a spike. When I switched over to an EBC (avc-r) it just went straight to target boost with no spike and held....

MBC is great and all you need, of course make sure you have a boost gauge to know how much your boosting, cause its a guessing game. Only do small turns at a time on the MBC and make sure you start from the most negative and work your way up.

[widgget]

yes, i am bypassing the N75.

and my boost setting has been whatever they set it at when i got flashed, i haven't' been back down to the shop (2.5 hours away) to have them SPS it for me to boost 9. right now it's only requesting 22xx-mbar at WOT.

my biggest issue right now is my IC piping, keep popping out of the couplers, but i'm putting a bit of gorilla glue on each one as it pops so that it won't happen again to that joint. gonna have a shop make m a set of solid pipes based on the er comp photos that have been posted but that won't be for a few months.

[Audi Skate Snow]

yes, i am bypassing the N75.

and my boost setting has been whatever they set it at when i got flashed, i haven't' been back down to the shop (2.5 hours away) to have them SPS it for me to boost 9. right now it's only requesting 22xx-mbar at WOT.

my biggest issue right now is my IC piping, keep popping out of the couplers, but i'm putting a bit of gorilla glue on each one as it pops so that it won't happen again to that joint. gonna have a shop make m a set of solid pipes based on the er comp photos that have been posted but that won't be for a few months.

spray the inner part of the coupling with brake cleaner, and then put them on with no glue , and use T BOLT clamps. should work perfect.

[widgget]

i've got T bolt clamps on it, and they are cranked down. i'll have to try the breakcleaner, but the glue seems to be holding for now.

[Audi Skate Snow]

i've got T bolt clamps on it, and they are cranked down. i'll have to try the breakcleaner, but the glue seems to be holding for now.

yea, those things are a bitch some times....

[dougyfresh]

i've got T bolt clamps on it, and they are cranked down. i'll have to try the breakcleaner, but the glue seems to be holding for now.

Are the connectors and piping going on straight? if they are off the slightest bit you'll be popping hoses left and right.

[ziggituning]

yes, i am bypassing the N75.

and my boost setting has been whatever they set it at when i got flashed, i haven't' been back down to the shop (2.5 hours away) to have them SPS it for me to boost 9. right now it's only requesting 22xx-mbar at WOT.

my biggest issue right now is my IC piping, keep popping out of the couplers, but i'm putting a bit of gorilla glue on each one as it pops so that it won't happen again to that joint. gonna have a shop make m a set of solid pipes based on the er comp photos that have been posted but that won't be for a few months.

I have the ER intercooler on my wife's 03, however one negative thing is that all the metal piping used in the kit is so solid it vibrates the whole car, there is not enough flex to absorb some of the resonance and vibration of the motor.

On my setup, I have a rubber pipe from the TB to the pipe with the intercooler sensor (approx 4-5 inches long) so on my setup the car idles and feels like stock no vibration. Otherwise the kit is really well done, and fits with little mod if any.

[ziggituning]

how about the modded valves like the one ecs sells, anyone ever run it? I know on VW the audi N75 is good to smooth out the spike and even pul 1-2 psi more.

[widgget]

the N75H was what i had on it. didn't have any problems before i went stage 3, but it just didn't seem to hold the boost after i installed the GTRS.

basically all the H version of the valve does is delay the signal so that it holds the waste gate closed for a fraction longer then the standard valve. I am assuming the one i had was just bad and if i replaced it with another it woudl hold boost the way it should, but i decided to go the MBC route until i can throw a AVC-R EBC in it.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

only option for "smooth" is using the N75. Using mbc or ebc will have more of a boost surge after a certain amount is reached, kinda like all or nothing. Very linear power is achieved with the N75 but you have to wait longer for power.

[Howard Hughes]

boost comes a lot faster, but you might get a bit of a spike. When I switched over to an EBC (avc-r) it just went straight to target boost with no spike and held....

How did you like the AVC-R?.... Do you think it's worth the money? I was thinking for awhile about switching over but I heard the boost probably wouldn't be as smooth at lower RPM's...

[widgget]

only option for "smooth" is using the N75. Using mbc or ebc will have more of a boost surge after a certain amount is reached, kinda like all or nothing. Very linear power is achieved with the N75 but you have to wait longer for power.

very true, the MBC is all or nothing but the GTRS is large enough that if you stay under 3k you can drive normally, the second you go over the 3k line it kicks in like a badass.

[mike-2ptzero]

only option for "smooth" is using the N75. Using mbc or ebc will have more of a boost surge after a certain amount is reached, kinda like all or nothing. Very linear power is achieved with the N75 but you have to wait longer for power.

I have used a EBC for nearly 7 years and not one surging issue. This was with a T28, S300 and the GT35r.

The EBC is basically just a N75 valve that already has its own computer, so it is pretty much the same thing as a N75 but with more control.


So a EBC is going to be the best option when running anything larger then a K04.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I didnt mean it as the turbo is gonna surge I mean the boost is perfectly modulated with the N75. With the N75 you can run 8psi 10, 11, 12, 15, 17,21 whatever you want by easing more into the gas. When you dont use the N75 you can run up to a certain point say 10psi then it will jump to 20psi if that is what you have the boost set at, there isnt a 11, 12, 15, 17 whatever.

[ziggituning]

So when your run a EBC , say you accelerate gradually from idle to 4ooorpm, what is the boost typically going to do, will it go from 0 to 20 (if you set max at 20psi) and then that's it it will hold until you let up on the gas, or will is ease you into the 20psi. if the answer is ease you into it, can the degree at which it eases in the boost be adjusted to make it more or less progressive? I have also read that is can be set for each shift or somethng like that...can anyone clarify that part please.

[Audi Skate Snow]

How did you like the AVC-R?.... Do you think it's worth the money? I was thinking for awhile about switching over but I heard the boost probably wouldn't be as smooth at lower RPM's...

in all honesty, i think when i had the MBC it was a lot more efficient. The EBC is just more convenient.

if you have the money get the EBC, if not the MBC is more than enough. ask david, i gave him one 3 years ago and he is still using it.

[Audi Skate Snow]

I have used a EBC for nearly 7 years and not one surging issue. This was with a T28, S300 and the GT35r.

The EBC is basically just a N75 valve that already has its own computer, so it is pretty much the same thing as a N75 but with more control.


So a EBC is going to be the best option when running anything larger then a K04.

true true.... with my EBC the boost was smooth as hell and it didnt spike at all... it hit its target and stayed there till about redline. very nice.

[mike-2ptzero]

true true.... with my EBC the boost was smooth as hell and it didnt spike at all... it hit its target and stayed there till about redline. very nice.

Boost Spikes

[Audi Skate Snow]

Boost Spikes

= trouble, kaboom, bye bye.

[ziggituning]

Boost Spikes

not a big fan of boost spikes.

[dougyfresh]

I know where you can get a good EBC

[A4 TSCHUSS]

So when your run a EBC , say you accelerate gradually from idle to 4ooorpm, what is the boost typically going to do, will it go from 0 to 20 (if you set max at 20psi) and then that's it it will hold until you let up on the gas, or will is ease you into the 20psi. if the answer is ease you into it, can the degree at which it eases in the boost be adjusted to make it more or less progressive? I have also read that is can be set for each shift or somethng like that...can anyone clarify that part please.

You can "gradually" accelerate all the way to 7000rpm if you want and never even get over a few psi of boost. I dont know what you meant by gradually accelerate. But with say a manual boost controller you can accelerate mildly (not like a grandma though) and control boost up to about 10psi range then once you want a little more you jump up to whatever the set boost range is there is no more controlling it. I cant remember how the electronic controller worked though when I drove a car with one (dont remember if it was on off after say 10psi) or if you could controll it 1psi at a time all the way to the set amount.

[ziggituning]

I was mainly refering to spikes, I prefer a solution that will allow me to dial it in to be as smooth and as reliable as possible. I prefer not having any hard spikes, rather a smooth progression, even if I stomp on it. I know you can play witht he throttle to regulate the boost, but I wnat to find out which one is the smoothest and best to not have to play with the throttle. this way no matter who or how it is driven the car will run well and not get too much of a beating, since I assume too hard a spike is more stress on the motor than a mooth progression of boost.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

sounds like you want to be running on the n75 valve