Checking TDC?

[BryMFL]

I know you have the timing marks on the camshaft gear and valve cover, but I need to make sure the crankshaft is at TDC with those. Are there markings for the crankshaft? If so where are they and what do they look like? What is the easiest way to check tdc when it wasn't previously timed correctly?

[Hamotee]

The markings for the crank are the on lower TB cover, pop that back on and you can see the marks.

[AudiA4_20T]

One notch is on the crank pulley and one is on the metal timing belt cover, maybe like 20 degrees to the left from the top

[BryMFL]

Thanks, Is the mark on the crank pulley a bubble type notch? Thats the only mark I see on there? Is the mark on the cover a mark or a cut out to see the crank pulley mark?

[AudiA4_20T]

a bubble type? its a little notch on the inside (engine side) of the pulley... and the notch on the timing belt cover looks almost like someone banged it with something by mistake, there might be some dirt on it so wipe it down youll see it... when you have it lined up the cam gear will be lined up also

[dirtybrd]

Yes, both are notched the cover and the pulley. If you look down at the crank pulley you'll see a notch in the cover just left of the bolt holding the cover on. I tried to get pics. but was having a hard time. Let me check them.

[dirtybrd]

Sorry for the quality and ignore the broken snub.

[BryMFL]

Thanks got it lined up at the bottom! I'm an idiot I all ready had the pulley off and was looking for the mark on the belt gear. So now that that is lined up all I need to do is make sure the camshaft marks are lined up and put the belt back on? And how do I know how many teeth go between sections?

[dirtybrd]

Sections? Just line up the marks on both pulleys? Do you want a pic of the top marks?

[BryMFL]

Is there a way to tell if you have bent valves without taking off the head?

[dirtybrd]

If the marks are lined up and it won't start, then more then likely. The motor will spin over very easily when trying to start it. A compression test will verify it.

[BryMFL]

Sections? Just line up the marks on both pulleys? Do you want a pic of the top marks?

NO thanks I got the markings for the cam, but I was wondering when I put the belt on how do i know if the teeth are not bunched up or stretched out? Do i just let it naturally do it own thing or is there an official way of doing it.

[dougyfresh]

Is there a way to tell if you have bent valves without taking off the head?

Pull all the spark plugs out of the head. Rotate the crankshaft over with a 19mm twelve point socket and a 1/2" breaker bar... by hand. You should feel resistance.

[BryMFL]

Pull all the spark plugs out of the head. Rotate the crankshaft over with a 19mm twelve point socket and a 1/2" breaker bar... by hand. You should feel resistance.

Would that be with the belt attached to the camshaft and everything or just turning over the crank?

[dirtybrd]

You want any slack on the belt to be on the tensioner side. The water pump side of the belt should be tight. That way when you release the tens. it takes up all the slack and the belt/timing marks shouldn't move. Re-check the marks afterward.

[dougyfresh]

crank pulley (big on on bottom)

Chris (dirtybrd) is referring to the side of the belt on the 'right' of the image above.

[BryMFL]

Once the belt is put back on, how much of the rest of the car do I need to put back together before attempting to start it?

[dirtybrd]

Just the lower cover and pulley. It'll cause some codes, but that's the least of you worries.

[dirtybrd]

Update?

[AudiA4_20T]

yea man did you get it? If you PM me your # Ill give you a call and run you through it, once you understand the timing marks its pretty straightforward

[BryMFL]

Well I put the car in the garage for the night and went to the store to get a new nut and washer for the tensioner roller cause the nut got stripped from the roller going bad. it'll be tomorrow afternoon before I get at it again. Thanks

[dirtybrd]

Keep us posted.

[BryMFL]

Well finally check the compression and unless the gauge wasn't working ALL 4 cylinders had the compression of a woman's fart. So on to the next part of this journey.....

Now that I know I'm gonna have to rip the head off and replace internals are there any other parts I should consider replacing besides the valves and valve lifters? Perhaps for future performance upgrades? I found some performance springs online any other options?

[dougyfresh]

Damn! That sucks. How did you wind up bending your valves in the first place? Did your timing belt break?


Did you repeat your comp test at least once to confirm the readings?


What are your future goals? You can pour a TON of money into these cylinder heads. Its best that you figure out your future goals and then build your cylinder head accordingly.

At a MINIMUM, aftermarket Inconel exhaust valves.

[BryMFL]

Damn! That sucks. How did you wind up bending your valves in the first place? Did your timing belt break?


Did you repeat your comp test at least once to confirm the readings?


What are your future goals? You can pour a TON of money into these cylinder heads. Its best that you figure out your future goals and then build your cylinder head accordingly.

At a MINIMUM, aftermarket Inconel exhaust valves.

Long story short the tensioner roller broke

As far as future goals I would like to go BIG but i will deff go Stage 2 at the min. with supporting mods

[dougyfresh]

Define 'big' please (turbo choice, etc..)

[BryMFL]

Define 'big' please (turbo choice, etc..)

Well at this point I'm not too sure yet but probably something mid size(turbo), FMIC, injectors, programming, exhaust, down pipe, intake, TIP, etc

[dougyfresh]

Well at this point I'm not too sure yet but probably something mid size(turbo), FMIC, injectors, programming, exhaust, down pipe, intake, TIP, etc

Okay.

If you are thinking a garrett GT30 series turbo and up I suggest aftermarket valves and valve springs and retainers so you can rev the engine up to 8500rpm (it'll also require the bottom end to be built... ie: forged connecting rods). You can also entertain the option of finding a big port AEB head for this configuration.

If you are thinking of a full frame T25 flange garrett GT2871R then I suggest just aftermarket valves with OEM springs and retainers. The 28 series can not flow enough past 7krpm to take advantage of revving that high so aftermarket springs and retainers are overkill.

In both cases, check valve guides for excessive wear and replace as necessary. Also get a full valve face grind to ensure 100% contact on the valve face seats.

[BryMFL]

Okay.

If you are thinking a garrett GT30 series turbo and up I suggest aftermarket valves and valve springs and retainers so you can rev the engine up to 8500rpm (it'll also require the bottom end to be built... ie: forged connecting rods). You can also entertain the option of finding a big port AEB head for this configuration.

If you are thinking of a full frame T25 flange garrett GT2871R then I suggest just aftermarket valves with OEM springs and retainers. The 28 series can not flow enough past 7krpm to take advantage of revving that high so aftermarket springs and retainers are overkill.

In both cases, check valve guides for excessive wear and replace as necessary. Also get a full valve face grind to ensure 100% contact on the valve face seats.

Thanks Doug,
I would like to be somewhere between 300-400HP. Not so sure how big of a gap that is between upgrade parts or if I need to narrow that down a little further to determine what valve set up to go with

[dougyfresh]

In that power range (at the crank) you can probably get away with a GTRS or APR 3+. They will put you closer to the 300chp. Both will not require crazy work to the head nor internals in the bottom end. If that is the case, then just put aftermarket valves in the head and call it a day.