catch cans...school me please.

[.Mad Hatter.]

ok.

i see a but of info about these and i was looking for some more info.

i see the benefits as being cleaning up the engine bay a little by deleting the pcv junk, and ensuring that no hot oil is put back in the motor or the intercooler.

1st, what the hell is the pcv system, and is there any downside to removing it?

2nd, i see 034 has 2 units, 1 with the filter sold seperatly. any more info on thses units or others?

[pac1085]

Not going to get into details on how the PCV system works, but I'd suggest keeping it.

Ideally, you'd have two catch cans.

One would be placed between the vacuum line that goes from the PCV valve to the bottom of the intake manifold (would need small hose fittings on it, since it's a small vacuum hose)

The second would be routed off of the hard line, before the pancake valve on your turbo inlet tube.

That way you'd still have the benefits of a PCV system, without the possibility of oil being sucked into your engine.

in other words, your pcv system would stay exactly the same as it is now but you'd add two catch cans to collect any oil. That way you'll still pull a vacuum on the crankcase and ventilate it, without having to suck oil into your motor.

I'd suggest looking into saikou michi catch cans, they are some of the very few on the market with internal baffling...

http://www.saikoumichi.com/

You'd want their stage 1 catch can for the vaccum line under the intake manifold, and their 951 catch can for the bigger line that goes into the pancake valve.

fwiw, i would never run my car w/o a PCV system again...I did it for a while.

[.Mad Hatter.]

what were the problems you ran into?

and is there no way to run only 1 catch can off the hard line (thats where most are, correct?) without deleting the pcv system?

[.Mad Hatter.]

just read up a bit...the valve coming off the TIP, is that eliminated with the catch can? as well as the hard line going into it?

if this is the case, where is the inlet to the catch can coming from; the TIP or the motor? and what happens to the open end?

[f15046]

There is tons of info about this on here. Search and you can probably answer your questions.

I have one catch can running the line from valve cover and line from crankcase into a "T" and then into a Summit Racing catch can. Seems to work perfect. And there is some nasty stuff that goes into that catch can.

[.Mad Hatter.]

f15046, any pics?

i searched but all i could really find was BT/BAT build threads. im specifically looking for info on these

[f15046]

I'll try to take some pics tonight or tomorrow. It is really simple. I used heater hose, and I had to get the adapter that 034 sells. It plugs into the block. The catch can from Summit is around $30-$35 bucks.

[.Mad Hatter.]

so does your setup do what pac describes but with only 1 can, or did you delete the pcv?

[f15046]

I deleted the PCV system all together. Catch can only, no vacuum source is attached to my catch can.

[.Mad Hatter.]

ok. i need to learn more about this because im not sure where the catch can is located exactly, thats why i ask for pics, haha.

[.Mad Hatter.]

by the way im doing this on an AEB, any considerations or issues?

[mike-2ptzero]

Vented can for me. Just make sure to mount the can as high as possible.


Picture of my block breather setup using the 034 adapter.

[ghost6303]

i lol'd at that site...
"SAIKOU MICHI : USA MADE FOR YOU!"

looks like a decent inexpensive product none the less. i still need to install a catch can as well.

I have one catch can running the line from valve cover and line from crankcase into a "T" and then into a Summit Racing catch can.

wouldnt the T connection defeat the purpose of having the can inline with the pcv system? the oil would have a 50/50 chance of going in either direction of the T and wouldnt be forced to go thru the can.

il probably delete the whole system altogether into a vented can just so theres one less thing to worry about leaking air.

[mike-2ptzero]

i lol'd at that site...
"SAIKOU MICHI : USA MADE FOR YOU!"

looks like a decent inexpensive product none the less. i still need to install a catch can as well.



wouldnt the T connection defeat the purpose of having the can inline with the pcv system? the oil would have a 50/50 chance of going in either direction of the T and wouldnt be forced to go thru the can.

il probably delete the whole system altogether into a vented can just so theres one less thing to worry about leaking air.

He doesn't run it inline, the 2 spots end at the vented catch can. I think you missed this post of his

I deleted the PCV system all together. Catch can only, no vacuum source is attached to my catch can.

[Lazer Viking]

what are the benefits to mounting this higher ?

its air.. not water ?

[mike-2ptzero]

what are the benefits to mounting this higher ?

its air.. not water ?

Actually there is this thing called "Oil" in your crank case and is where you want it to stay. Plus any oil or oil vapor that doesn't make it all the way to the catch can ends up going back to the crank case once there is no pressure in the line.

[djwimbo]

what are the benefits to mounting this higher ?

its air.. not water ?

If it's vented you need to mount it higher. That way it doesn't spill. You DO NOT want to be "that guy" that spills fluids on the track.

If it's recirc'd into the exhaust or into the intake, you don't need to mount it high. A check valve wouldn't be a bad idea for those who like corners though.
I don't honestly know if you would need it, but that block breather isn't that high up in the block.

[mike-2ptzero]

Well adding a line to the valve cover really helps get more pressure out and with that you still want to keep the catch can inlets at that level or higher. Doing both is really needed for those that really want to push high hp and run 8k+ rpms.

[1fstavant]

sorry poor pic...but its just like mikes ran from that spot on the block straight to my can no pcv system i believe

[mike-2ptzero]

You might want to put a shield on the filter to keep oil from getting all over the turbo/dp just in case oil gets sprayed out. I would just tack it right to the can on that side.

[.Mad Hatter.]

would it be better to vent the can or have it recirc. back to the intake or mani? im thinking venting is the easier route...

[mike-2ptzero]

would it be better to vent the can or have it recirc. back to the intake or mani? im thinking venting is the easier route...

Depends on what your trying to do. Better to vent for power and better to recirc for emission. You can also route it back into the exhaust if you want a vacuum source but you want to do that after the 02 sensor.

Yes venting is much easier and a much cleaner look. But make sure you mount the can in a spot that is not near your cabin filter if you like using the fresh air feature of your a/c or heat.

[.Mad Hatter.]

emissions wont matter, i cant pass as it is.

for those with a vented setup, is under the coolant resi. the best bet?

[mike-2ptzero]

emissions wont matter, i cant pass as it is.

for those with a vented setup, is under the coolant resi. the best bet?

That is where I used to have my old one, I mounted it right to the ABS bracket. My new one is mounted in the stock battery location.

[.Mad Hatter.]

figured i would bump this vs. starting a new thread.

anybody using this setup? if so, is there enough room between the inlet and the outlet to mount a small filter (for venting) on the outlet port? they look pretty close together, so i want to make sure i can get the filter on there as well as the inlet line.



thanks!

[audikid66]

i have a wawa bottle with vents cut in as my catch can on my b5 lol

[wesleyfbm]

I have the 42 Draft Designs catch can. Line coming in from breather tube off valve cover and recirculated to where the pancake valve used to be.

Where I mounter mine:

[.Mad Hatter.]

hmmm, i thought it was better to have it vent in order to avoid the oil going back into the TIP.

[BlkBullitt]

In order for a crank case venting system to work most effectively there needs to be some sort of vacuum source connected to the catch can to help draw out pressure. So you could just stick a filter on your catch can and vent it into the engine bay, but it won't be as effective as if it did have a vacuum source (not to mention you may experience the smell of oil inside your car from venting the system). Hooking it up to the TIP fixes the problems with venting the system, however, you do still run the risk of oil potentially entering the TIP. The best solution, but not the easiest or most cost effective one, would be to have a check valve welded into your DP and run the catch can to it. The exhaust would create a vacuum source, the check valve would prevent the exhaust from entering the catch can system, and any oil that gets past the catch can system would be burnt off in the exhaust.

[wesleyfbm]

The oil is trapped at bottom of catch can while fumes recirculate to the TIP.

[.Mad Hatter.]

I have read that. so weld a bung onto the downpipe (post cat anywhere would be fine i guess) and run the outlet of the catch can to it, with a check valve emptying to the exhaust?

hmmmm, that may be do-able.

[goonies]

not a bung..this..http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=1243
honestly this is a very nice piece but you can make something that performs just as well easily. make sure you position the cut properly as one way will force pressure in and the other actually creates a vacuum using different air pressures/velocities.

[nunya]

Here is my setup. We put a nipple on the valve cover and tapped the oil pan for a drain. We used the turbo inlet hose to provide vacuum. It came out like so:



--dillon

[.Mad Hatter.]

what do you guys think about this? i could vent it and drain it weekly/bi-weekly as needed too.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51137/10002/-1

i have to assume that those who are venting need to top up their oil semi-regularly as well?

[thenofjboy]

you dont need to clean out the catch can that often, some do it every oil change, others wait longer etc..

that can looks good too, comes with various fittings etc.

i still need to get around to finding a drain valve for mine bc all it was is a hex shaped stud to remove.

btw, if you change your mind & want to weld a check valve into your exhaust, LMK bc i have one around somwhere

[ModBargains.com]

I see that you're interested in the BSH Competition OCC and I'll do my best to help you out! This kit is completely bolt on and is designed with one goal in mind - Keep your engine clean and healthy!

The purpose of a catch can system is to collect/vent the blow by vapors inherent as part of the combustion process. The factory setup sucks these oily vapors directly back into the engine exposing them to everything in their path.

In the short term getting these vapors out of the combustion path reduces knock retard by not allowing oil vapor to mix with the air fuel mixture. In addition the more free flowing lines allow the engine to rev easily giving a more responsive feel to the engine as a whole.

Over the long haul these untended to vapors will build up over the intake valves leading to a host of running issues and an expensive repair bill to fix. With a catch can installed you will save yourself from dealing with this hassle.

Feel free to shoot me over an email at [email protected] if you have any questions at all!

Alan Wei
www.ModBargains.com
714-582-3330 x 8006

[Lazer Viking]

honestly my ebay unit has been working great for me, but im looking to upgrade to a dual inlet so i can draw at the crank case, and the valve cover..

[.Mad Hatter.]

actually Nic thats not a bad idea...but where would the oil at the intake come from?

[Lazer Viking]

huh ?

[.Mad Hatter.]

wow for some reason i read intake manifold, lol.

I see that you're interested in the BSH Competition OCC

for $234? not likely, lol.