tiptronic transmission questions

[1_ate_t]

My tiptronic seems to slip around 3800 RPM's for a second before it grabs again and starts pulling again. Is there something to do to try to fix this so it will pull through out the RPM's? TIA!

[KPC1.8TQuat]

Mine does the same thing, but only in 2nd and 3rd. Get going at about 2000 rpm in first and bury the throttle, see if it does it then.

The problem is a combination of a hole in the stock ECU map and the adaptive throttle profile.

Nothing you can do while it's stock.

[diagnosticator]

What you are feeling, is the torque converter clutch locking up after the shift to second gear. The bump can feel like an extra gear shift. Change the ATF every 30K miles to help maintain firm shifts with minimum clutch slip, old fluid will provoke glazing the clutch friction faces, causing increased slip and heat. Pentosin ATF-1 fluid is recommended.

[KPC1.8TQuat]

What you are feeling, is the torque converter clutch locking up after the shift to second gear. The bump can feel like an extra gear shift.

I don't think it's the TC because it happens well below WOT. It's just a slight pause at about 3800 RPM.

Also, if it was the TC, wouldn't it happen in first as well?

[AudiA4Turbo22]

^^Kurt ur making a huge mistake ur arguing with the master! He's right it is the TC the mapping of the ECU has nothing to do with this, it is just the stall rate of the TC and if it is at 3800RPM's like u say it may also be the small turbo lag where full boost kicks in and for a second there it hesitates.

[KPC1.8TQuat]

Oh, I'm definitely not arguing with the big D.

[Rons01B5]

If you are in drive (D) the TC loves to slip a little, even at 3/4 throttle. Drive in tiptronic mode, locks TC in second gear.

[1_ate_t]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll take it for a spin here in a little bit and see if it does it in tiptronic mode. If it doesn't, is my best bet to try changing out the fluid so i can drive it in full auto mode without the hesitation? Any would a aftermarket chip help at all? Thanks!

[1_ate_t]

So I took it for a spin again, in regular drive and sport, it slips around 3800 rpms. In tiptronic mode its perfect. Is there a way to make it not slip in regular drive or sport mode? Would a chip help or a tip chip? Thanks!

[phEight]

So I took it for a spin again, in regular drive and sport, it slips around 3800 rpms. In tiptronic mode its perfect. Is there a way to make it not slip in regular drive or sport mode? Would a chip help or a tip chip? Thanks!

For me in D it hesitates around 3800 but when I'm in tiptronic it will hesitate at something like 2800 or so... shift to second at 15-20 mph and just slowly accelerate and it'll happen. Why does it change where it slips when you are in D vs. tip? This has been happening since I got the car. I never noticed it on the test drive but later on figured out it was normal. In fact, when I first reported it the head tech got a ride with me and he said that was odd and had my tranny replaced lol.. but then the same problem came back..

[sinful7]

I thought the TC went into full-lockup in all gears in both sport and tip modes, and slipped in drive? I guess I've never really paid attention to the actual throttle response in higher gears in sport... I'm already driving so damn fast it doesn't really matter.

As for this ATF change at 30k-
I thought the ATF Audi uses is touted as lifelong fluid? Also, doesn't that stuff have to be IV-style dripped in to the tranny or something rediculous? If so, it doesn't make sense to change it every two to three years... what a PITA.

[KPC1.8TQuat]

As for this ATF change at 30k-
I thought the ATF Audi uses is touted as lifelong fluid? Also, doesn't that stuff have to be IV-style dripped in to the tranny or something rediculous? If so, it doesn't make sense to change it every two to three years... what a PITA.

My tuners at East Coast European told me every 80k miles is a good idea. It's about a $200 job.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

there is no lifelong ATF fluid that would only work if u drove in a perfect straight line and did not downshift by flooring it for example if u drove stopped and drove back that's it because not much heat would build up in the tranny.

they say lifetime but it's bogus change it out once every 40k

[sinful7]

While I agree that the 'lifetime' description probably means the standard 'lifetime' implication of 100k miles, I don't think it's necessary to change it every 40k. Heck, even on my old GM 700R4 changes weren't really necessary inside of 60k.

[diagnosticator]

While I agree that the 'lifetime' description probably means the standard 'lifetime' implication of 100k miles, I don't think it's necessary to change it every 40k. Heck, even on my old GM 700R4 changes weren't really necessary inside of 60k.

Obviously, it not necessary, but that mileage is reasonable for the purpose intended. If the changes aren't frequent enough, there is little benefit compared to not changing it at all.
The service conditions need to be considered in each case too. For example, if most mileage is city driving, then the change interval should be even shorter, like 30K miles. The reasoning is that for city driving the trans shifts maybe 500 times per hour where as on the highway, the trans shifts only once or twice per hour driven. Clearly, for the city driven case, the fluid is stressed a lot more, and the contamination from wear particles is much higher.

[ImageX]

Also have to keep in mind if your changing out the filter or not... a dump and refill is good every 30 to 40 k... Cause i dont think u can drain out all the fluid theres still a remaining portion of the fluid still in the housing... so just draining and refilling is good habit just to keep it cycled... I noticed a big diff when i changed mine with redline atf shifts smoother and not even notchy in the least bit...

[1_ate_t]

I went to the dealer to get atf and a filter. The parts guy suggested not to change the fluid because the transmission probably has metal particles in it thats helping the transmission hold gears and if the fluid is changes it will be clean and possibly not shift at all. This is from his personal experience with his Mom's audi. What are your guys thoughts?

[sinful7]

My thought is... Yikes... Aren't parts counter guys supposed to be ASE or what? haha!

He is recommending not changing a fluid because the inherent abrasive contaminants are vital to the reliable operation of the drivetrain. I guess Audi uses a metal-flake-infused ATF from the factory then?

[widgget]

yeah they use flakes, but if you add a 100 grit sand to it you'll get much better power transfer and quicker shifts.

[KPC1.8TQuat]

if you add a 100 grit sand to it you'll get much better power transfer and quicker shifts.

yeah, that grinding sound you get adds 10 whp

[1_ate_t]

So anyways, I talked to another ASE certified mechanic and he suggested that if the transmission fluid has never been changed, not to change it, too. My car has 125k on it. The transmission still shifts good, so it looks like I will just keep driving it the way it is.

[Turb_Oh_A4]

Yea, i trust my parts guy at my local dealership with my LIFE! When i asked him for a transmission mount he turned the computer to me and just kept flipping the screen of parts saying " tell me when you see it."

125k is a LONG time to not change your fluid... i cant believe what both of those guys told you *shakes head*

[1_ate_t]

Yup, I can't believe it either, thats why I'm on here.

I bought the car about a month ago and drives perfect, has all scheduled maintenance records, but never a transmission flush.

So would a chip help the slight hesitation around 3800 rpm's?

[Turb_Oh_A4]

Just remember, our fuel filters are supposed to be lifetime too!

[1_ate_t]

lol, I'm picking up a new one tomorrow.

[Turb_Oh_A4]

Just pick up a tranny filter also

[diagnosticator]

So anyways, I talked to another ASE certified mechanic and he suggested that if the transmission fluid has never been changed, not to change it, too. My car has 125k on it. The transmission still shifts good, so it looks like I will just keep driving it the way it is.

The suggestion not to change the fluid, cannot be supported by the facts involved. I don't know how this non knowledge got started, but it has no merit. There is no factual evidence to form the basis for the "don't change the fluid now that it is contaminated and oxidized, and doesn't provide the benefits of new fluid, so that is what you want to run with" is illogical nonsense.
No offense intended, but ASE Certification does not establish any credibility as a technical authority, does not represent any credential as a recognized expert knowledgeable with the specific aspects involved at issue here.

[Turb_Oh_A4]

maybe he is just ASE in brakes or something lol.

[randylam]

The cvt tranny has filters!
where and how to change it?

[diagnosticator]

I went to the dealer to get atf and a filter. The parts guy suggested not to change the fluid because the transmission probably has metal particles in it thats helping the transmission hold gears and if the fluid is changes it will be clean and possibly not shift at all. This is from his personal experience with his Mom's audi. What are your guys thoughts?

There is no evidence of fact of the alleged association between the wear metal that settles out of the fluid, (and there are four big magnets in the trans fluid pan, one at each corner to trap ferrous metal particles, mainly steel clutch plate wear particles,) or trapped in the filter, having a certain practical or essential role allowing the transmission to function if present, or cause the trans to fail if not present. That doesn't make sense. If that where true, then how did the trans work right from new?? (That is, without the alleged wear particles performing the key tasks and the basis for the overall operational capability of the trans.)

[1_ate_t]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm just gonna go ahead and change the fluid and filter. And if it doesnt shift after, i'll just put the old fluid back in.

[KPC1.8TQuat]

My guys at eastcoast european told me every 80k miles for my TIP. I trust them. It's about a $200 service.

[diagnosticator]

The procedure is somewhat more involved than used to be the case. You need a vag-com, and a hooked filler hose and a bottle pump. Also, the fill port plug is a large hex IIRC, it's 17mm. The car must be on a lift or jack stands and level.

Do you have the bentley manual?

[1_ate_t]

Nope, I dont have a Bentley manual, but I do have a vag-com.

[diagnosticator]

I recommend the Bentley instructions for refilling the trans properly. See: www.ebahn.com for on-line manual access.

[K1200GT]

OMG Not the "don't change the fluid or the world will end" old wifes tale again! I changed mine around 60K and it was UGLY! Wish I had done it sooner. It's easy to do, couple of car ramps and jackstands, VAG-COM and a cheap fluid transfer pump.
I've posted links to the site for a trans change kit for like 100 bucks.
Use the search

I liked the parts guy comment about the trans mount and "tell me when u see it". Priceless!
Only go to the dealership parts counter in utter desperation, with correct part number in hand. I prefer to order online and wait a couple days.

Happy Holidays

[rocketheavy]

where the heck is the filler? i took a glance today when i changed my oil but it looks like a tight spot.

[diagnosticator]

where the heck is the filler? i took a glance today when i changed my oil but it looks like a tight spot.

It's up inside the verticle well in the trans oil pan.

[diagnosticator]

While I agree that the 'lifetime' description probably means the standard 'lifetime' implication of 100k miles, I don't think it's necessary to change it every 40k. Heck, even on my old GM 700R4 changes weren't really necessary inside of 60k.

My definition of "lifetime filled fluid" is where the "lifetime" is until the trans fails.