Note to self: Dont trade cars with your brother for a week

[mainer0311]

Well it started out with my cam tensioner seal leaking. I temporally fixed it with RTV, but didn't want to drive it 200 miles back to school. So I switched cars with my brother, he wasn't going far from home. So yesterday I get a phone call, "I just punched a hole in your oil pan". He hit a rock in the driveway, and put a hole in it, than drove it till the light came on not knowing there was hole in the pan. He's owned lowered b5's before but I guess my coils are lower than H&R race springs. I'm a pretty easy going guy, I told him just to pull the pan and we'll weld it when I get home for Thanksgiving brake.

So tonight he goes and pulls the pan. I get a phone call, "the motor is gonna have to come out". I figured he had trouble pulling the pan or something. But no, he says there is metal shavings around the main bearings. He pulled the main bearing caps and rod caps. From the front back the first 3 main bearings are scored on the crank and the first 2 rod bearings are scored on the cranks. All 4 cyl walls are just like glass, so no problems there.

I'm not mad at him, it isn't his fault he was only trying to help me out. The motor has 270k on it so it was bound to happen, and may not have been totally on the account of the lack of oil.


So my Thanks giving brake will be filled with working all day(landscaping) and a few long nights in the garage getting my motor out to swap in a new crank.

I've got a few questions though. What is the difference between a 5 speed and an auto crank?

Also what is involved with swapping a TDi crank into it? I've read that I need a crank from a 1z, AHU, or AAZ because they dont have the gear on them to drive the oil pump.

A few pics.






Anyone have any tips or suggestions?

[djwimbo]

Anyone have any tips or suggestions?

2L + HTA3076?

If the engine has to come out, then yank it and assess the total damage. If the crank is actually scored, you need a crank, if it's just bearing material that decided to weld itself to the crank you MIGHT be able to save it.

W/ 270K though, I gotta hunch those cylinder walls are a big larger than 81mm, time for a rebuild and maybe some 81.5-82mm slugs.

[mainer0311]

I would love to to a total rebuild right now, but I don't have the time or money. I don't have a grand + to toss at my bottom end to get it ready for a BAT. The crank is scored, there is no question in my mind. So it will need a new crank.

I did a compression test at 265k and got 155 + or - a bit on all 4, so the compression isn't perfect, but good enough for now.

If I toss a tdi, or 1.8t crank in it, it will hold me over till I have the cash to do a bottom end.

A built bottom end is out of the question right now, the money just isn't there.

[AudiA4_20T]

I would love to to a total rebuild right now, but I don't have the time or money. I don't have a grand + to toss at my bottom end to get it ready for a BAT. The crank is scored, there is no question in my mind. So it will need a new crank.

I did a compression test at 265k and got 155 + or - a bit on all 4, so the compression isn't perfect, but good enough for now.

If I toss a tdi, or 1.8t crank in it, it will hold me over till I have the cash to do a bottom end.

A built bottom end is out of the question right now, the money just isn't there.

you can't just toss a TDI crank in there without custom pistons.. get a new 1.8T crank and call it a day, or go 2L

[biketsai]

Sorry to be a little off topic, but how hard is it to pull the crank? Dont you just pull the motor and disassemble from the bottom? Or do you have to work your way starting at the top of the motor?

[djwimbo]

Sorry to be a little off topic, but how hard is it to pull the crank? Dont you just pull the motor and disassemble from the bottom? Or do you have to work your way starting at the top of the motor?

I've seen a couple people put cranks in w/o removing the head, pistons or rods. Do I recommend it, No. If you're doing a rebuild after an event like that, you should at least measure the cylinder taper and out of rounds and assess what SHOULD be done from there.
At 270K there's a considerable amount of wear on the cylinder walls, specifically at or near TDC, that makes it 10x more difficult for the piston rings to seal in that situation.

... I'm going to stop posting b/c intelligence and alcohol do not mix.

[mainer0311]

ya, with a little more research I found that the TDi crank isn't the easy way of getting a bit more displacement. I've got a few donor cars lined up with lower mileage motors, hopefully one of those works out.

Cooper

[Nebone]

Bear in mind the manual transmission crank and auto transmission crank have different bolt patterns so are not interchangeable.

[mainer0311]

Thanks, the crank has to be from an AEB 5 speed.

[mainer0311]

I just picked up a 98 Passat with 160k on it for 500 bucks. The kid who I bought it form rolled it. I'll start the swap when I get home on Tuesday, it shouldn't be that big of a deal. I had my motor out to do the clutch so I have done it before.

[mainer0311]

Well I swapped in the new to me motor. Turns out it is a newer head with the variable valve timing(not hooked up) on an aeb bottom end. Everything turned out good. It only took me 10 hours to pull both motors and drive out of the garage.

My old motor with 270k on it must have been a bit tired, because this new one pulls way better.

Cooper

[Toyotatech]

What are you going to do with the old motor?

[mainer0311]

The head and all the accessories are sold. The bottom end is up for grabs.

Cooper

[t1demont1]

vvt means its probably small port head =(

[mainer0311]

Small port heads flow better under 300hp. At this point I'm not making 300 with my chip and turbo back exhaust. Maybe next summer when I have time and money I will build a motor, but I'll buy one and build it so I have less down time.

Cooper