DDM HID problems!!! /gasp

[le91688]

So, my 6000k 55w HIDs are giving me a little problem...

To be more specific, the driver side bulb sometimes doesnt start when i turn it on. I have to turn the key off and on a few times to get it to fire up then it stays on.

It only does it after i drive a while then go to restart the car later.

I figure its not the fuse, but i have no idea what it could be. Its also like 20 degrees out so i want to figure out the problem before i got and take stuff apart.

could it be a bad ballast or what?

[pyongwonse]

this just happened to mine. i switched the driver and pass. side bulbs to make sure it wasnt the bulb itself, it turned out to be the ballast. try that

[le91688]

UPDATE!

I checked it out, and both of my ballast, which were mounted in the ballast holder on the bottom side of the headlamps, both popped out and the driver side was hanging almost near the ground. I think i can attribute this "dislocation". I took both headlights out and used the rest of my Silicon sealant as glue and pasted those bitches into the holders.... They're drying as we speak, so when i reinstall my headlamps tonight/tommorow, it will be the final test.

[b5andm3]

You people need to start questioning yourself before you question a product you bought.

[4A Play]

Should have bought VVME. Sorry, always wanted to say that lol.

[VagStaR]

Are those VVME kits even any good? I am a firm believer in, you get what you pay for, and those thing are like $40.00 haha. Did you get a bulb out light or anything. I have actually been looking at the MTEC kits on ebay.

[zrowcool]

i've had vvme for almost 2 years. christmas would make it 2 yrs. no issues at all and i have a set in the projectors and a set in the fogs

[erode]

DDM is good... used their stuff for years in my M3s with no issues. If I ever have issues I can always attribute it to my own idiocy.

[le91688]

nah DDM is legit. It was just i put the ballast in a dumb spot and it wasnt secured!

Its working fine now lol

Just curious, where does everyone mount their ballasts

[Stampy]

I don't get how the ballast being lose would cause the problem. Every time I have had the issue you are describing it turned out to be a bad bulb. Ballast are pretty much filled with solid glue/silicon. Yeah you want them secure, but being loose should not have that effect.

[b5andm3]

nah DDM is legit. It was just i put the ballast in a dumb spot and it wasnt secured!

Its working fine now lol

Just curious, where does everyone mount their ballasts

So why title the thread DDM hid problems. You're attracting negative attention to their company when its not warranted.

Maybe a mod should change the title to "OP Shouldn't install electronics again"

[le91688]

So why title the thread DDM hid problems. You're attracting negative attention to their company when its not warranted.

Maybe a mod should change the title to "OP Shouldn't install electronics again"

Maybe because i had a "Problem" with a "DDM" hid kit.

[erode]

So why title the thread DDM hid problems. You're attracting negative attention to their company when its not warranted.

Maybe a mod should change the title to "OP Shouldn't install electronics again"

It's ok, I don't think a thread like this defames or libels DDM ... issues occur with all products. People who care will read this thread and figure out what the issue truly was.

[b5andm3]

Maybe because i had a "Problem" with a "DDM" hid kit.

Because of user install error. Go soak a $200 waste of money HID kit in water and check back.

[le91688]

Because of user install error. Go soak a $200 waste of money HID kit in water and check back.

It was only 95+shipping.

But, i got em fixed. Working 100% now, it was probably just tension on one of the connections maybe.

AND, i blame the sticky pad that came with the ballasts. it didnt hold like it should have.

[JumboBlack1.8]

It was only 95+shipping.

But, i got em fixed. Working 100% now, it was probably just tension on one of the connections maybe.

AND, i blame the sticky pad that came with the ballasts. it didnt hold like it should have.

x2....the sticky pad sucks....I've gotta find a better way to secure mine cuz they've fallen off after only 2 weeks.....this is a great kit tho. Not like the other typical cheap HID kits (i don't know how some can knock a product they haven't tried themselves.....) Well worth the money. Good to hear u got it working

[le91688]

x2....the sticky pad sucks....I've gotta find a better way to secure mine cuz they've fallen off after only 2 weeks.....this is a great kit tho. Not like the other typical cheap HID kits (i don't know how some can knock a product they haven't tried themselves.....) Well worth the money. Good to hear u got it working

i used some silicon sealant and just glued it in with it ha

[b5andm3]

DDM 55w HIDs are now $40 + shipping. I am only in this thread because DDM are good people doing an amazing service to the euro community. For too long have vendors been price gouging us.

[JumboBlack1.8]

^^ link? Thats unreal....I paid $85shipped I think

[b5andm3]

^^ link? Thats unreal....I paid $85shipped I think

DDMtuning.com

They give away free HIDs with every BMW E36 headlight housing purchase..

[le91688]

UPDATE: Problem occurred again! going to contact ddm tommorow!

[TheWrightAudi.]

wait i have that same problem. i have my HIDs set as my day time running lights. so there allways on. anyhoo when i start my car the light ''wants to start'' but doesnt fire up right away. so i found that if you set your light switch to full (two clicks up) it somehow ''juices'' the ballast and then it starts up no problem.

its weird i no, and i probley have a faulty ballast considering it only happens to my passanger side, but i just learned to deal with it. made it work.

[Stampy]

UPDATE: Problem occurred again! going to contact ddm tommorow!

It's the bulb man. Did you even try swapping them to check?

[Stampy]

wait i have that same problem. i have my HIDs set as my day time running lights. so there allways on. anyhoo when i start my car the light ''wants to start'' but doesnt fire up right away. so i found that if you set your light switch to full (two clicks up) it somehow ''juices'' the ballast and then it starts up no problem.

its weird i no, and i probley have a faulty ballast considering it only happens to my passanger side, but i just learned to deal with it. made it work.

I thought DRL's get a lower voltage so they don't light up all the way(dimmer)? That would explain why it fires right up when you turn the actual lights on. If that is why you are having the problem you are having, you are probably doing a lot of hurt to your ballast/bulbs.

[TheWrightAudi.]

I thought DRL's get a lower voltage so they don't light up all the way(dimmer)? That would explain why it fires right up when you turn the actual lights on. If that is why you are having the problem you are having, you are probably doing a lot of hurt to your ballast/bulbs.

no they flicker on and off when first started. then once i turn on the light switch it somehow juices it to fire up strong.

[Stampy]

because its getting the proper voltage to fire up the ballast....

[b5andm3]

if its a defective product Jim will definitely take care of you. he always puts the customer first.

[TheWrightAudi.]

because its getting the proper voltage to fire up the ballast....

ahh i c what your saying to it amps up the voltage. so its not really a bad thing then?
sorry not my thread, but was curious to find out why that was.

[Stampy]

From WIKI....

"Canada

Canada Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 108 requires DRLs on all new vehicles made or imported after January 1, 1990. Canada's proposed DRL regulation was essentially similar to regulations in place in Scandinavia, with an axial luminous intensity limit of 1,500 candela, but automakers objected, claiming it was too expensive to add a new front lighting device, and would increase warranty costs (by dint of increased bulb replacements) to run the low beams. After a pitched regulatory battle, the standard was rewritten to permit the use of reduced-voltage high beam headlamps producing up to 7,000 axial candela, as well as permitting any light color from white to amber or selective yellow. These changes to the regulation permitted automakers to implement a less-costly DRL, such as by connecting the high beam filaments in series to supply each filament with half its rated voltage, or by burning the front turn signals full time (except when actually flashing as turn indicators)."

or read it here...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp

[TheWrightAudi.]

that would make sense why they call them ''low beams''

[keeganhartman]

different idea completely ...

[Toyotatech]

DDM sells a wiring harness you are supposed to use for the problem you are having. The factory wiring isn't able to carry the amperage for 55w.



HID Accessory HarnessUse this relay harness to connect HIDs to cars with very small gauge wiring that cannot supply the initial surge current required to light the bulbs reliably. Symptoms indicating the harness is required would be intermittant starting or lights going out after being turned on for several minutes and requiring you to turn the lights off and back on for them to turn back on again.

Recommended for all 50W HID installations but most American and European cars work at 35W/50W without the harness. The harness is definitly recommended for Quad's and other ATVs or when running multiple HID installtions. This harness is a fused relay isolation harness capable of supplying 40A at 12vdc.



Notice they say most European car work at 35 or 50 watts......not 55 watts.

[S4evr]

im havin the same problem too. the passenger side *sometimes* doesnt fire up right away. ill just turn the lights off, then turn then back on once or twice and that tends to fix the problem.

[UGwagen]

DDM sells a wiring harness you are supposed to use for the problem you are having. The factory wiring isn't able to carry the amperage for 55w.



HID Accessory HarnessUse this relay harness to connect HIDs to cars with very small gauge wiring that cannot supply the initial surge current required to light the bulbs reliably. Symptoms indicating the harness is required would be intermittant starting or lights going out after being turned on for several minutes and requiring you to turn the lights off and back on for them to turn back on again.

Recommended for all 50W HID installations but most American and European cars work at 35W/50W without the harness. The harness is definitly recommended for Quad's and other ATVs or when running multiple HID installtions. This harness is a fused relay isolation harness capable of supplying 40A at 12vdc.



Notice they say most European car work at 35 or 50 watts......not 55 watts.

All it is--- is a relay kit. YOu're relaying the ballasts with minimize wire length (increased length = more resistance). This is needed to ensure full power to the ballasts, especially when the HIDs are DRLs, as HID DRLs are at 100% intensity

OEM HIDs uses the same thin wiring as non-HID, with the lighting relay in the same spot.

[Seerlah]

I do not know about the issue withy the bulb not igniting. But as for where to mount the ballasts, use 3mm double sided sticky tape. Another thing one might want to try is to increase amperage on the low beam fuses, given that the wirings are all correct. But it really should not make a difference as the stock low beams are 55w and the HID is 55w. Unless it may take a little more wattage for them to ignite. Here are pics of where I mounted my ballasts (Retro-Solution):

Driver's side (next to ABS module/power steering fluid resevoir)


Passenger's side (held on by double sided sticky tape upside down under the plastic peice that molds the designatd headlight housing)


*side note: double sided sticky tape is some powerfull sh*t

edit: I am on a laptop currently as my desktop is at a place getting all the bugs fished out. If the pics do not show up, here are the links (Driver's side/Passenger's side)

[le91688]

I do not know about the issue withy the bulb not igniting. But as for where to mount the ballasts, use 3mm double sided sticky tape. Another thing one might want to try is to increase amperage on the low beam fuses, given that the wirings are all correct. But it really should not make a difference as the stock low beams are 55w and the HID is 55w. Unless it may take a little more wattage for them to ignite. Here are pics of where I mounted my ballasts (Retro-Solution):

Driver's side (next to ABS module/power steering fluid resevoir)


Passenger's side (held on by double sided sticky tape upside down under the plastic peice that molds the designatd headlight housing)


*side note: double sided sticky tape is some powerfull sh*t

But wouldnt the fuse blow if it was inadequate?

I'm just surprised how common the problem i am having is with the DDM hids.
Why should i have to buy a relay kit for something to work?

Oh yeah seerlah, those pics didnt come up for me!

[Seerlah]

The pics should be up now, and I also added photobucket links. As long as the wires are rated to handle the added amperage then you will be fine. There are many people whom up the aperage on thier fuses when they run into complications such as so. Just add 5 more watts and see what happens, after you take Stampy's advice. The thing is you can add higher amperage fuses (taking into consideration that the gauge can handle it. in this case, I am almost posotive it can), it is just never a prudent thing to lower the amperage. That is when you start to blow fuses.