Would the stock Diverter Valve make the "moo-ing" sound when bad? Update!

[absolutegtr]

Just did the diode mod. I figured that the 105K mile DV would go eventually but not 10 miles down the road!

I have heard that the APR R1 DV makes the moo-ing sound when bad, but would the OEM DV make that same sound?

At about 10% throttle I get the moo sound, and when I got WOT and then lift off, instead of getting a nice woooosh sound, it flutters.....

What options do I have when it comes to aftermarket DV's?

I would like to get a DV that will suffice for a BAT setup (future plans).....Would the Forge 007 suffice?

Hows about the 225TT DV? (What is it called again?)

TIA!

[AudiA4Turbo22]

yup had a 710N go bad the same way last week, mine if u let off the gas would delay and then flutter. Caused my CEL to come on after a few days.

[absolutegtr]

yup had a 710N go bad the same way last week, mine if u let off the gas would delay and then flutter. Caused my CEL to come on after a few days.

So is the stock DV called a 710N?

I thought that was the name for the 225TT DV?

[a4wd]

710N is indeed the TT valve. Ive used mine for 30k miles on stage 1/1+ with no problems. ~$40 @ the dealer

[absolutegtr]

710N is indeed the TT valve. Ive used mine for 30k miles on stage 1/1+ with no problems. ~$40 @ the dealer

Thanks for that. Do you happen to know the part number?

I'll probably just go with this valve for now, since who knows when I will go BAT....

But, is my problem THE diverter valve? Am I showing the correct symptoms?

[eclimax13]

i mooo...well it more of a wooo but im pretty sure its not my dv...its at the same 10% throttle...my boost holds fine

[absolutegtr]

i mooo...well it more of a wooo but im pretty sure its not my dv...its at the same 10% throttle...my boost holds fine

mooo/wooo watever, lol.

i first heard it (EVER SO SLIGHTLY[barely audible] after doing my FMIC (stock at the time too), but now at 16psi it is the exact same sound just WAY louder....

My guess would be the diverter valve. but I hold boost perfectly fine

[initiala4]

whudda expect its a diapharm

[absolutegtr]

Any way to be sure that it is the diverter valve?

[eclimax13]

Any way to be sure that it is the diverter valve?

take out the dv...push up on the diaphram and put your finger over the vacuum hole...if the diaphram moves theres a leak...this is what ive been told to do

[AudiA4Turbo22]

whudda expect its a diapharm

nice spelling

[eclimax13]

nice spelling

thats where the mooing happens...on the dia pharm....haha...gay

[AudiA4Turbo22]

^^haha

[absolutegtr]

I'll give that a shot....keep up with the jokes in the meantime

[diagnosticator]

The test described above, is done like this: with the DV removed, push the diaphragm up compressing the spring as far as possible, then block the small hose port on the top with your thumb, then release the diaphragm. The diaphragm must not move much at all, and must stay lifted against the spring pressure as long as the small hose port is blocked. If the diaphragm closes from spring force with the hose port blocked, the diaphragm has a hole or tear in it, in this case the DV must be replaced.

BTW, the 710N has been superseded by 710P, I have the P, and it is a nicer DV than the 710N, with a brass diaphragm guide and silicon diaphragm material.

[vinny.dtw]

I just ordered the AWE DV, I heard its pretty solid, and doesn't require servicing.

[absolutegtr]

thanks again john!

[diagnosticator]

I just ordered the AWE DV, I heard its pretty solid, and doesn't require servicing.

I think that the AWE DV-1 is a good choice also, for the money, it should prove to be very reliable. Please post up your comments after installing it.

[texasboy21]

i also have done the diode mod and when i let off the gas i get a loud "zing" like two really small pieces of metal tapping. Im running 17lbs, is my dv going out or is that the normal noise lol

barrett

[absolutegtr]

Havent check the valve yet...

But after driving some more today, one problem I get is I cannot seem to "regulate boost". It is either 0 or 16 psi. No inbetween. And if I do give it say 30% throttle, its like the car gets confused and jumps from 0psi to 16psi and the back down to 0psi....could this be the DV?

[absolutegtr]

i also have done the diode mod and when i let off the gas i get a loud "zing" like two really small pieces of metal tapping. Im running 17lbs, is my dv going out or is that the normal noise lol

barrett

Are you running stock exhaust AND a test pipe? I do and my car makes that same sound....it made the same sound at stock PSI too.....thats what happens when you have a stock exhaust and TP, lol

[absolutegtr]

Update!

Finally had the time to remove the stock 105K mile diverter valve...HOPING that was the source of my moo-ing....well it was not. Using the method that John (diagnosticator) described, the diaphram inside the DV held fine.

I guess it was silly of me to think it was the DV because if it was torn, I would get minimal if any boost, by I seem to be boosting 16psi and holding it just fine all the way through 5k+ rpm.

Here is the wierd thing though....after installing my MBC, I was expecting for it to take a million turns before I got the boost at the right level. Well it took me just ONE turn (of the MBC) before I registered 16psi on my gauge. There is no way I could be this lucky......I feel something is up....any ideas?

As for the moo-ing sound, after doing HOURS of searching, I have come across people having malfunctioning N75 valves....but mine is not even hooked up! (just the electrical connection plugged in and I left it in the TIP...should I plug the two remaining ports?)

Cliff notes:
1) Moo-ing sound only at a small percentage of throttle.
2) VERY hard to regulate boost...its either 0psi or 16psi...cruise control doesnt like it.
3) After first doing the diode mod, (TO ME) the car absolutely hauled ass...now it is not as fast but still quicker than stock....would my car have pulled timing?
5) Do I plug the ports on the N75 valve?

TIA

[b6onboost]

1) Still wana say DV or boost leak
2) That the MBC for you...very on/off throttle response.
3) Diode Mod, that could be a big issue right there.
4) LEARN TO COUNT
5) How are you running the MBC and N75. Bypassed or running both?

Cliff notes:
1) Moo-ing sound only at a small percentage of throttle.
2) VERY hard to regulate boost...its either 0psi or 16psi...cruise control doesnt like it.
3) After first doing the diode mod, (TO ME) the car absolutely hauled ass...now it is not as fast but still quicker than stock....would my car have pulled timing?
5) Do I plug the ports on the N75 valve?

TIA

[absolutegtr]

give me a break I am typing on my iPhone ...

I still have to check For boost leaks but I am holdig 16psi just fine....

Any other ideas guys?

[diagnosticator]

give me a break I am typing on my iPhone ...

I still have to check For boost leaks but I am holdig 16psi just fine....

Any other ideas guys?

If it's only at small throttle agnles, then it's only when there is vac in the manifold, and no boost exists.
\
the ON/OFF boost control would be smoothed out by adding a small bleed orifice between the MBC and the wastegate actuator.

The DV should be installed "reverse from OE" orientation, with the bottom port the inlet from the compressor discharge/intercooler plumbing, and the DV side port connected to the compressor inlet/tip.

[absolutegtr]

The DV should be installed "reverse from OE" orientation, with the bottom port the inlet from the compressor discharge/intercooler plumbing, and the DV side port connected to the compressor inlet/tip.

What ever is the point of this? Why does every do that? Any benefits?

TIA

[diagnosticator]

What ever is the point of this? Why does every do that? Any benefits?

TIA

Yeah, the reverse from OE orientation, the DV is able to seal against and hold boost pressure better due to the unballanced forces in the DV from boost pressure acting on the exposed diaphragm surface areas when on boost.

[absolutegtr]

Yeah, the reverse from OE orientation, the DV is able to seal against and hold boost pressure better due to the unballanced forces in the DV from boost pressure acting on the exposed diaphragm surface areas when on boost.

Thanks. I guess I'll give it a shot tomorrow....but I dont see how that would result in a "mooo" sound. I am holding boost just fine.

(After driving my car all over tonight) I have realized that the sound is only made at slight throttle while passing through or holding at 3-5 psi ONLY! ....Maybe this can give some insight

[diagnosticator]

Interesting. Sounds like the boost leak only causes the noise you hear at the air flow rate that exists when the boost is between 3 to 5 psi. I don't think the DV orientation will change the noise, unless the leak is somehow effected by swapping the DV along with the retightening of the connections. The DV will close quicker in the reversed position but you probably won't notice any major difference unless the DV was leaking boost before. FWIW, the turbo can make up for small boost leaks, and develope the normal boost regardless.