Originally Posted by
Fourtitude
Things to look for on 99.5 – 01.5 audi a4s
99 has
4 spoke wheel (some had 3 spoke)
2 piece halogen non-projectors
older taillights
old instrument cluster w/ out display
old stereo and climatronic
old side turnsignals
upper trunk badging
only rear quattro badge
no fogs
99 sport pack = same as 99.5 spt pkg
tip controls on steering wheel
99.5 got (Major Makeover)
3 spoke steering wheel
1 piece projector headlights
newer style taillights
mid-trunk badging
front quattro badge
newer side turnsignals
old stereo and climatronic
old instrument cluster w/ out display
foglights
99.5 sport package = 16inch 7 spoke wheels and tighter susp.
00 got (plus 99.5)
newer instrument cluster w/ display
newer stereo and climatronic display
01 got (plus 00)
20 horsepower
•Cam/ timing belt Water pump replacement at or around 60k (no more than $1100 job)
•Front Control arm(s) bushings ($600 for parts) labor ~$400? (push down on all 4 corners of the car and listen for creaks,groans as a sign of bad control arm bushings)
• Wheel bearings (when driving side to side swerving you’ll hear a nasty grinding sound if they are shot beyond shot when damage has been done)
• Anyway you're specifically talking about an A4. The early ones were notorious for front suspension track control ball joints. (not sure of the year) Ask the owner if he has had them replaced. If so that's ok as a revised ball joint came out I believe around about 96/97. Any Audi parts guy should be able to confirm this. However, even if they can't. The offending ball joint generally makes itself known in the form of a very obvious creak on pressing down on the suspension
• If buying a turbo charged one. Cunningly quiz the owner how he/she drives it. ie. do they allow it to warm up before thrashing it. Possibly let them drive it for the first part of the test drive. Equally important do they allow it to cool down before shutting it off after a thrashing session. Not so easy to determine.
• 1997, I wouldn't pay more than 12k(with every option, and car in perfect shape)
1998, i wouldn't pay more than 13K(with every option, and car in perfect shape)
1999, i wouldn't pay more than 14k(with every option, and car in perfect shape)
2000, i wouldn't pay more than 16k(with every option, and car in perfect shape)
• As to the car, other irritants to look out for are a in-dash driver display unit that fades (no cure, other that complete replacement which is mega-expensive, so live with it) and a Concert stereo head unit, with a volume control that has a mind of its own.
• Check out if the gearbox has been replaced, im on my third, its not nice, it was just out of warrenty too
• well i've heard you can push down on the four corners of the car, and listen for a squeak. Often tiems when you go over bumps you'll here squeaking and thumps. You can also jack the car up and see if there is any play in the control arms. They should be solid.
• 2000 that 1.8Ts got drive by wire
• Sport package includes: sport shocks, springs, and swaybars. Now just add the three spoke steering wheel and 17 inch wheels. Same HP and everything else
• 2001.5 has the K03 sport and you know its a k03 sport if there is a little red flag lookin thing coming off the body of the T in 1.8T
• Also make sure the cruise control works, I just bought one and it's broken. I think it's the stalk switch that goes bad.
• see if the rear diff is leaking. Thats another common problem
• After 98, 1.8T has leatherette standard and sports seats as a stand-alone option. 2.8 has both cloth and leather sports seats available.
• in 2001 the 1.8T got VVT the HP rating went from 150 to 170.
• MAF Sensor(other board)
BPV Faulty(other board)
• coilpacks were an issue with 2001 cars
• timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, rollers, cam seal, control arms, tie rod ends, sludge...thats all i can think of right now
In addition to running an AutoScan, I'd do some logs at WOT from 2k-redline. Check boost (Group 115) and MAF (Group 002).
Is there any links?
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