What oil for GT 28's?

[NogaroAvant]

...I have yet to ask my turbo manufacturer what they recommend, Just looking to see what you GT series guys are running for oil.

Thanks!

Dave

[bandit]

uuhhh oil?

[NogaroAvant]

uuhhh oil?

Yeah, oil... I'm Simply asking a general question as to what motor oil the few people that are running gt-series turbo's are running...

[Das General]

Are you breaking in a motor or not?

[AudiA4_20T]

did you do the GenJDM kit?

[dougyfresh]

engine break-in --> dino oil (Castrol GTX is what I used on my 2.0)
fully broken in engine --> synthetic oil (Elf/Total is what I use on my 2.0)
OEM oil filters throughout.

[NYCVR6]

...I have yet to ask my turbo manufacturer what they recommend, Just looking to see what you GT series guys are running for oil.

Thanks!

Dave

Doesnt matter, run whatever oil you always ran, it's not like a different turbo requires a different oil. For breaking in a new motor, this is what i use: http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

[MacDaddy]

if you live in Canada, go to Canadian tire and buy this cheap stuff:

[NogaroAvant]

Yeah, I will be breaking in a freshly, fully built motor.

I understand different turbo's don't really require different oil... I am just looking to see what people are running as far as weight, etc. Maybe for different thermal dynamics and the ability to maintain proper viscosity with heat.

I used to use Mobil 1 synthetic 0-40, but 2 sets of turbo's (K03's) were cooked using it. I am not blaming the oil, but maybe it could be a common denominator... I'd just like to break this one in right when the time comes, and use something that will serve its purpose.

[NogaroAvant]

Justin, thanks for the link... read up on it some... looks good.

[BITRBO]

Yeah, I will be breaking in a freshly, fully built motor.

I understand different turbo's don't really require different oil... I am just looking to see what people are running as far as weight, etc. Maybe for different thermal dynamics and the ability to maintain proper viscosity with heat.

I used to use Mobil 1 synthetic 0-40, but 2 sets of turbo's (K03's) were cooked using it. I am not blaming the oil, but maybe it could be a common denominator... I'd just like to break this one in right when the time comes, and use something that will serve its purpose.

When the old man and I rebuilt our race motors we usually run a higher weight non-sythetic during the break-in period. Just to name a few, it helps to seat the [new] rings and get the wear patterns started in the cylinders. Once broke-in, we usually switch to a full-syn or super-syn race oil (e.g. MB1, 0W20 "Race" or 15W50 "Super-Syn") until something breaks or it's time for another re-build.

Generally speaking, you should never really break an engine in using a low-weight fully-synthetic oil. They're just too slippery, especially when you want a little "extra" friction during break-in. After that, I'd go Motul or MB1 full-syn all the way...

[Sleeeper X]

When the old man and I rebuilt our race motors we usually run a higher weight non-sythetic during the break-in period. Just to name a few, it helps to seat the [new] rings and get the wear patterns started in the cylinders. Once broke-in, we usually switch to a full-syn or super-syn race oil (e.g. MB1, 0W20 "Race" or 15W50 "Super-Syn") until something breaks or it's time for another re-build.

Generally speaking, you should never really break an engine in using a low-weight fully-synthetic oil. They're just too slippery, especially when you want a little "extra" friction during break-in. After that, I'd go Motul or MB1 full-syn all the way...

Interesting.... ya learn something everyday.

[changs4]

Get the real mobil 1 0w-40...always the best.

[RenegadeEngr]

When the old man and I rebuilt our race motors we usually run a higher weight non-sythetic during the break-in period. Just to name a few, it helps to seat the [new] rings and get the wear patterns started in the cylinders. Once broke-in, we usually switch to a full-syn or super-syn race oil (e.g. MB1, 0W20 "Race" or 15W50 "Super-Syn") until something breaks or it's time for another re-build.

Generally speaking, you should never really break an engine in using a low-weight fully-synthetic oil. They're just too slippery, especially when you want a little "extra" friction during break-in. After that, I'd go Motul or MB1 full-syn all the way...

Some of you guys should learn how to answer questions like this.

[BillyEUPHORIA]

sorry to this one back
but what do you guys think about running total mc3 oil, in a stage 3 2.7t ?

[J-b5]

Ive been reading great things about rotella t6... trying it in the winter car, and will have the oil tested at the end of the season.

[davenew]

...I have yet to ask my turbo manufacturer what they recommend, Just looking to see what you GT series guys are running for oil.

Thanks!

Dave

I'm still on cheap break-in dino oil but plan to switch to mobil 5w40 turbo diesel truck oil soon.

[car]

Mobile One is no longer a 100% synthetic oil. Take a look at the bottle next time you are near one. "Fully Synthetic". Garbage. The bottles from a few years ago read "100% Synthetic". You may as well run autozone oil. The laws have been changed declaring what can be labeled a synthetic oil. My father and I were long time Mobile One followers. We now run Amsoil.

[gearhead1186]

check out bobistheoilguy forums. the guys are know oil inside and out. when I posted there asking for recommendations on my setup they all suggested redline or motul 300v because of their high ester content. better for high temp applications.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...oard=48&page=1

[BlkdoutS4]

I just switched to Shell Rotella T6 on my stage 3 and so far so good... cant beat it for the price as well.

[andream88]

i use Millers Oil 10w40 mineral running in oil to break in the motor.

then Redline 5w40 fully synt.