You will hear that every decent tuner can go into the 11s. It is true. With proper supporting hardware. You'll want VAST piggies, NEW K04s RS4 plumbing including Y pipe, and a modded RS4 airbox, and very solid intercoolers (I strongly recommend ER, if you aren't into cutting your bumper a lot. With W/M, you don't require FMIC), W/M injection, Engine and tranny mounts, snub mount, Drive train Stabilizer, built trans parts, a proper fueling system (I prefer 42 lb injectors and 4 bar FPR for a finer mist), a free flowing cat-back exhaust, and possibly other odds and ends. You will want to ensure that you have solid compression, and excellent leakdown numbers.
I would also recommend Linear rate springs or pretty stiff progressives, for optimal launching. There's more to it than that, but it's a whole other subject.
If your engine is running at 100%, you will have a much easier time getting what you are looking for. Simply shoving bigger air and fuel at the problem may make you a sad (and broke) panda.
I really feel that Mike at VAST performance can get what you are looking for.
You can also do things like change trans gear ratios to liven things up. If you shift slow, it may be to your advantage to raise gearing and max RPM up, so that you never see 5th or 6th in a 1/4 mile run. 8000 or so RPM is expensive to get to, and you probably couldn't see 23 PSI to it, but being able to ride a longer power band, and hav higher peak HP due to RPM has some serious merit to it. I would run a PSI or so lower, if you want longevity, and raise revs and or gearing.
Raising engine red line past 7400 on stock valve stuff will probably break things badly.
Just remember:
"How fa$$$t do you want to go?"
More boost is better, until intake temps climb and /or efficiency range is lost.
More fuel past a point is bad.
HP=T*R/5252, unless you try to get more HP by raising Rpm past safe. then HP=zero.
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