Anti fouler success!

[JMRQuattro]

So i did the install with a friend earlier today and then went to schucks and got the original CEL code cleared. And there's no CEL coming on anymore. So the anti fouler method does work

[rxrep]

So far. Others have tried it also and it usually comes on again eventually. Good for you if you got it to work!

[A4 KiDD 810]

If it doesnt come on after 200 miles or so then you're good.

[JMRQuattro]

well hopefully for what i need it won't come back. Because i just need it to pass emissions, then i'm good for another 2 years.

[rxrep]

well hopefully for what i need it won't come back. Because i just need it to pass emissions, then i'm good for another 2 years.

Be careful with that, though. Some states won't let you pass if you've cleared codes within a certain amount of time or miles.

[JMRQuattro]

But that code would have had to be cleared anyway and i only have a 15 day period to do emissions. So i got the car last saturday (didn't have a cat on it) and so this coming sunday would be the 15 days. And unless i filed for an extension i would have had to either replace the cat which is really expensive, or try something else. So i opted to try something else, so either way that code would have had to have been cleared even if i had just bought a brand new cat. So i don't think i have to worry about the amount of days after clearing the code.

[ScaryGary]

hey, keep us posted on your mileage and pending success. This is basically a make or break thing for me on going with a TP.

Thanks

[JMRQuattro]

as we speak i'm at 87,5XX miles. I'm not sure the exact mileage, but i set my trip odometer after i filled my tank which was about 10 miles down the road from my friend's shop. So i have so far driven about 30 miles with it and nothing has happened. But i'll know by the end of this tank whether or not it's gonna keep working.

[audikid66]

keep us updated..what year do you have... older models like 02/03 works better on for some reason

[DeanUW]

You cant just go clear your codes and run to get your emissions tested. You have to pass readiness before you can goto emissions. That requires you to do quite a bit of driving. If you do some city and highway driving for the next two - three days and it still hasn't popped up then it worked. But you're not in the clear yet, you have to pass readiness, if you have any friends w/ certain code readers you can scan your car and see if you have passed readiness.

[actlsub9]

You cant just go clear your codes and run to get your emissions tested. You have to pass readiness before you can goto emissions. That requires you to do quite a bit of driving. If you do some city and highway driving for the next two - three days and it still hasn't popped up then it worked. But you're not in the clear yet, you have to pass readiness, if you have any friends w/ certain code readers you can scan your car and see if you have passed readiness.

There is a procedure to go through to pass all readiness that involves some idling, reving, and driving. This can all be done in less then a half hour.

If all readiness are passed your are all set to get inspected. In some states you only have to pass 4 or 5 out of the total 6.

Ill try and post up the procedure.

[DeanUW]

There is a procedure to go through to pass all readiness that involves some idling, reving, and driving. This can all be done in less then a half hour.

If all readiness are passed your are all set to get inspected. In some states you only have to pass 4 or 5 out of the total 6.

Ill try and post up the procedure.

True, I didn't feel like being blunt and telling a local to use the search button for that sheet since its been talked about plenty of times... But yeah, unfortunately in WA we have to pass all 6

by the way Greg, wheres some new pics!? I thought you picked up a new camera!?

[actlsub9]

OBD II Drive Cycle

Readiness Code Generating

General Description
Diagnostics are performed at regular intervals during normal vehicle operation. After repairing an emissions related system, a readiness code is generated by road testing the vehicle.
If a malfunction is recognized during the drive cycle, it will be stored in the DTC memory.
The OBD drive cycle operation will be monitored with a hand held diagnostic tool.
Consult the manufacturer's instruction manual for correct tool operation.
The readiness code is erased every time the DTC memory is erased or any time the battery is disconnected.
If the DTC memory has been erased or the battery is disconnected, a new readiness code must be generated.
Only erase the DTC memory if a DTC has been stored.
General Recommendations
Most monitors will complete easier and quicker using a “steady-foot� and “smooth� acceleration during the drive cycle operation, cruise, and acceleration modes.

OBD II Drive Cycle

Readiness Code Generating continued
Operating Conditions
For the EVAP monitor test, the coolant temperature and the ambient air temperature must be between 10° C and 35° C with a difference between them no greater than 4° C. The ambient air temperature must not change more than
4° C during the drive cycle procedure (e.g. when driving out of a heated workshop in the winter).
Requirements
• Erase the DTC memory.
• Coolant temperature must be between 80° C and 110° C.
• The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) must be between 10° C and 35° C.
• Battery voltage must be a minimum of 12.5 volts.
Warning:
When performing the drive cycle operation, pay strict attention to driving conditions and please observe and obey all posted speed limits. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury or possible death.

Drive Cycle Procedure
1. Connect the diagnostic tester.
2. Switch the ignition on and start the vehicle.
3. Idle the vehicle for 2-3 minutes. This executes the O2S Heater, Misfire, Secondary AIR, Fuel Trim, and Purge system monitors.
4. Drive the vehicle at 45-55 mph for a continuous 7-minute period, avoid stopping. This executes the EVAP, O2S, Fuel Trim, and Misfire monitors.
5. Accelerate the vehicle to an engine speed of 5000 RPM (with automatic transmission use the tip-tronic mode); lift off from the throttle until the engine speed is at around 1200 rpm. This executes the fuel cut off monitor. Perform this step twice to execute the O2S rear monitor.
6. Accelerate the vehicle smoothly to 60-65 mph, cruise constantly for 5 min, this executes the Catalyst; O2S, Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge System monitors.
7. Decelerate and idle the vehicle again for 3 minutes. This executes the Misfire, Secondary AIR, Fuel Trim, and Purge system monitors.

OBD II Drive Cycle
Readiness Code Generating continued
8. Check the status of the readiness code.
Note:Depending on the diagnostic tester used. The readiness code status may be displayed as complete, passed or OK.
9. If any engine monitor fails the drive cycle test. Repeat the drive cycle test until all engine monitors have successfully run through and passed.
Note: When repeating the drive cycle operation for a failed EVAP monitor or thermostat-monitor, allow the engine to cool until the coolant temperature and the ambient air temperature are be between 10° C and 35° C with a difference between them no greater than 4° C is observed and repeat the drive cycle operation.
10. If the drive cycle operation fails again.
11. Check the DTC memory for stored DTC's.
12. Repair the vehicle if necessary.
13. Repeat the drive cycle operation until all engine monitors have successfully run through and passed.
14. Remove the diagnostic tester and switch the ignition off.
15. End of operation.

[actlsub9]

by the way Greg, wheres some new pics!? I thought you picked up a new camera!?

I took this super quick pic last week. But I haven't had any time for a real shoot I also picked up a sigma 10-20 this week, that thing gives some cool perspectives. I can't wait to try it out

[DeanUW]

I took this super quick pic last week. But I haven't had any time for a real shoot I also picked up a sigma 10-20 this week, that thing gives some cool perspectives. I can't wait to try it out

Tell me about it, I picked up a metz flash and just can't get any time to shoot But Nice! 10-20's are sick! Can't wait to see some sick pics Greg!

[PCYC]

sweet

[JMRQuattro]

keep us updated..what year do you have... older models like 02/03 works better on for some reason

i have an 03.

You cant just go clear your codes and run to get your emissions tested. You have to pass readiness before you can goto emissions. That requires you to do quite a bit of driving. If you do some city and highway driving for the next two - three days and it still hasn't popped up then it worked. But you're not in the clear yet, you have to pass readiness, if you have any friends w/ certain code readers you can scan your car and see if you have passed readiness.

And i know this, i'm not going to the emissions center until the very last minute i have available. So far it just hasn't sent a code so my CEL isn't on, so it's gotta be working at least a little bit.

And sorry for the rant guys, but thanks actlsub9 for actually trying to help.

[JMRQuattro]

My CEL came back on and i went to get the code read today and it gave the code, "Secondary injection incorrect; upstream airflow." So it's saying that my 02 sensor is what's causing the trouble code. But in regards to what it's saying specifically, is it saying that it's not reading the correct amount of airflow? Because it seems like that would make sense seeing as the anti foulers make it so that the 02 sensor isn't in direct contact with anything coming through that pipe.

Also might this have something to do with the primary 02 sensor? Because if the first 02 sensor is in full contact and reading more airflow than the secondary, could it be recognizing this and giving the code because of it? Or does it not work like that?

[knightstick]

I've been running a LaBree HFC and have had off and on (mostly on) cel ever since install. The night before last, I cleared the code at my shop, then drove approx 20 highway miles and 3mi of city driving to a smog shop. The cel stayed off for the drive and I passed my CA smog check without a problem.

[actlsub9]

Guys, I just cleaned up this thread. Keep it on topic or it will be locked.

[DeanUW]

Damnit! Greg did you at least read all those posts before you deleted them, it was getting hilarious! haha, thanks for controlling me

[JMRQuattro]

the search only came up with 21 results btw. None of which answer my question. One was close but it ended up being about air flow not an 02 sensor.

[BlkonBlkA4]

Dean is being the bigger/more mature man and letting it go.

[BlkonBlkA4]

Guys, I just cleaned up this thread. Keep it on topic or it will be locked.

REGULATED!!!

Dude please put my post back up. It was a masterpiece

[JMRQuattro]

^^ i just brought it back on track. I'm done with this argument. I already said that, but greg deleted the posts. I used this magic search button and only got 21 results. And one was my own thread so 20. None of them had to do with the problem i have. I thought the last one was but it ended up being about a boost leak or a leak in a hose having to do with airflow somewhere else. I think that the code i got means my 02 sensor is reading to little airflow because the anti foulers are restricting it.

[actlsub9]

Damnit! Greg did you at least read all those posts before you deleted them, it was getting hilarious! haha, thanks for controlling me

You guys were writing essays Should have just met up and duked it out

[BlkonBlkA4]

You guys were writing essays Should have just met up and duked it out

while cirtainly a legit solution, at least I tried to make it an interesting read

[DeanUW]

You guys were writing essays Should have just met up and duked it out

HAHA

But seriously, do you think we could set something up like that on here!?

[JMRQuattro]

am i right or wrong about the code?

[JMRQuattro]

The only results i can find about my code are "secondary air injection incorrect flow". But my code reads "secondary injection incorrect upstream airflow". Similar but not the same.

[BlkonBlkA4]

the 2nd o2 sensor has absolutely nothing to do with runability. Its sole purpose is the tell the computer if your catalytic converter is functioning.

Your code is not related to the o2 sensor.

[JMRQuattro]

what is it referring to by upstream then?

[DeanUW]

Before doing any more research or getting yourself all riled up, I would pressure test your car.

Click
Then click on "Maintenance and repair" on the right, then click on "Finding a Boost Leak" 4th from the bottom

[JMRQuattro]

^^ thanks. I'll try that.

[JMRQuattro]

I finally got everything figured out and i got the car to pass readiness, and I passed emissions with no fault codes.

And for those who were interested in the anti foulers... i've driven just over 150 miles on my trip odometer with no CEL still. And my catalytic converter passed emissions without any trouble and i don't even have one lol. And before the anti foulers were installed, the code the ECU was giving was for the catalytic converter. So the anti foulers work. I'd give it a try if you're interested. I'm not sure if the CEL will eventually come back on, but i'm hoping it won't so i won't have to keep clearing the code.

But there you go, anti fouler success!

[yung turbo]

congrats and thank you. you have just convinced me get a TP.

[DeanUW]

I finally got everything figured out and i got the car to pass readiness, and I passed emissions with no fault codes.

And for those who were interested in the anti foulers... i've driven just over 150 miles on my trip odometer with no CEL still. And my catalytic converter passed emissions without any trouble and i don't even have one lol. And before the anti foulers were installed, the code the ECU was giving was for the catalytic converter. So the anti foulers work. I'd give it a try if you're interested. I'm not sure if the CEL will eventually come back on, but i'm hoping it won't so i won't have to keep clearing the code.

But there you go, anti fouler success!

Glad it worked, thanks for the PM

[JMRQuattro]

congrats and thank you. you have just convinced me get a TP.

yeah dude, it's totally worth a shot. It's a REALLY easy install. Getting to the sensor is the hardest part and even that's a piece of cake if you take out the airbox/intake. Go for it

[alfalfa164]

Thought I'd share my experience with the DIY anti-fouler O2 spacer. Installed a 034 HFC a few weeks back and it threw a P0420 code after 30 miles of driving. Laszlo, from 034, suggested that I get their O2 spacer to prevent this, but I passed on the purchase at the time. Rather than going back to 034 for the spacer, I decided to try the anti-fouler method. Paid about $4 for the 2-pack of the 18mm anti-foulers, and another $15 for the 9/16" (iirc) drill bit. Had to file the opening a bit after drilling, as the O2 sensor would not go into the 9/16" hole (using a larger bit would have started hitting the internal threads). Anyway, after about half an hour of work, I got everything installed and reset the P0420 code with an OBDII tool. Had gone 300 miles (of standard, non-aggressive driving) without a code. Then, yesterday, got bored and decided to go for a drive through some local mountain roads. Was punching it most of the way, and after about 30 miles got the P0420 code back. Reset the code and will see how it goes from here.

Here are my takeaways:

1. It would have been easier to just purchase the 034 spacer to begin with; would have been cheaper and I wouldn't have spent the time drilling and filing. Yes, I now have a 9/16 drill-bit, but I have not needed one till this DIY, and will likely not need it again anytime soon.
2. If you drive like a bat out of hell for a prolonged amount of time, you're likely to get the P0420 code with the spacer; there's just too much exhaust being dumped for the HFC to "treat." Just my two cents.

I'll be taking it easy for the next 1000 miles and will report back.

[Jflow23]

I have the Labree HFC, no luck with anti-foulers, had to switch to the APR test pipe file.