What would you recomend?

[b5hobsons4]

I'm trying to figure out which would help me out with my throttle cut problem. I'm hoping it is throttle cut anyways. Would you guys recomend the race n75 over the stock n75? what are the major differences?

Here is my problem. I've got codes saying that I am overboosting. I had a shop pressure test the car and they said they didn't find any leaks, but I am not quite sure if the shop tested it correctly. I do not have a boost gauge, I need one but I don't have the money right now.. Anyways, I can be driving along and floor it from any gear and it will accelerate for a few seconds and then have a sudden jar and a complete loss of power. You can hear the boost being let go. I have to wait until the car shifts or completely let off the throttle for about 3 or 4 seconds until the turbos will start spooling again.

I purchased 007's and I'm narrowing down the problem. I'm hoping it's not the waste gate itself. The car is chipped as well. I'm planning on ordering a n75 tomorrow. I need to know which one I need to order. Please, any help would be great.
Thanks,
Lucas

[AudiXS4X01]

its probably cheaper to buy a boost gauge and a pressure tester and be able to test your car than it would be to go out and buy another n75 valve and not be sure that will solve the problem.

[changs4]

Get someone to VAG your car. I find VAG tool is a must for S4ers.

[b5hobsons4]

I don't have anyone near me besides the dealership that has a VAG. Where would I go about getting a VAG tool anyways?

If I get a boost gauge, im gonna get the AWE Vent Gauge. If I'm gonna do it, im gonna do it right. I can get a N75 for under $100 or so. I'm gonna try this and if this doesn't work, then I'm gonna have a new N75 and still have a boost leak or somethin else.

[mholme]

I don't have anyone near me besides the dealership that has a VAG. Where would I go about getting a VAG tool anyways?

If I get a boost gauge, im gonna get the AWE Vent Gauge. If I'm gonna do it, im gonna do it right. I can get a N75 for under $100 or so. I'm gonna try this and if this doesn't work, then I'm gonna have a new N75 and still have a boost leak or somethin else.

If you just want to read codes and clear them, you can get a cheap third party interface on ebay that works with ross-tech software, the oldest version. If you want to do anything beyond codes, you need to pony up the money for licensed interface from ross-tech.

You need a pressure tester with these cars and a VAG-COM. Otherwise, you'll be throwing money at the car and not always fixing the problem. If you can afford a 250 dollar boost gauge, you should be able to pick up a VAG-COM and make or buy a pressure tester no problem.

[s42k5b]

I'm trying to figure out which would help me out with my throttle cut problem. I'm hoping it is throttle cut anyways. Would you guys recomend the race n75 over the stock n75? what are the major differences?

Here is my problem. I've got codes saying that I am overboosting. I had a shop pressure test the car and they said they didn't find any leaks, but I am not quite sure if the shop tested it correctly. I do not have a boost gauge, I need one but I don't have the money right now.. Anyways, I can be driving along and floor it from any gear and it will accelerate for a few seconds and then have a sudden jar and a complete loss of power. You can hear the boost being let go. I have to wait until the car shifts or completely let off the throttle for about 3 or 4 seconds until the turbos will start spooling again.

I purchased 007's and I'm narrowing down the problem. I'm hoping it's not the waste gate itself. The car is chipped as well. I'm planning on ordering a n75 tomorrow. I need to know which one I need to order. Please, any help would be great.
Thanks,
Lucas

It sounds llike you are somewhat broke. It is not necessary to get a AWE boost gauge. Get a regular gauge for exmaple autometer or gloshift and cut ur vent out yourself. There are ways to save money, botttom line is you need a boost gauge.

[AudiXS4X01]

^true...i have a spare glowshift u you wanna buy it..its in perfect condition, no problems

[dak360rt]

Kinda sounds like the problem that i was having with the boost cut and all, mine ended up being the EGT sensor, although i think that was throwing a P-code CEL

Marty

[Tifosi]

What tune and what stage are you ?

[b5hobsons4]

It don't throw a cell. But I guess I'm a Stage 2-, if there is such a thing. I know there is Stage 3-. I'm chipped, 007's, and a darintake. I haven't got around to the exhaust part of that yet. College is really draining me. As for the tune, its O.CT. It was in the car when I bought it and didnt realize it. I've had trouble finding a whole lot of information about them. I've sent them numerous emails, but they never replied. That is the extent that I can tell you about my tune.

[raketeS4]

that'd be stage 1. Stage 2 is a chip + cat-back and stage 2+ means you are chipped with downpipes and a cat-back

[dak360rt]

That how im partying right now (chip and darintake) i like to call it Stage 1+

[b5hobsons4]

haha Well I'm glad I finally figured that out finally. I've wondered what I was, but didnt want to ask. haha

[gointoscott]

how long has it been over boosting? Since you had the car?

What everyone is saying is true.

1. Buy the cheap ebay ODB-II cable. that is what I did. I think they are under 20 bucks shipped. on ebay. Then pm me for the older version 3 vag-com software and I can email it to you and you can check for codes and at least know exactly what codes you have and will know what to fix. This is a must to have to save tons of cash and not have to take it to the dealer or shop to find out what codes you have.

2. I know you want to do it right for the AWE boost gauge, but 250 bucks is highway robbery. You can get a cheap glowshift gauge for 35 maybe 40 bucks tops, and will work great. A boost gauge is a must. yes the awe's look better, but to have a temp gauge for 35 bucks isnt really throwing money away, you could always sell it later when you want to get the right one, and recoop most your money back and only be out 10-15 bucks total. Well worth knowing what your boost is.

Back to your overboosting issue. Yes the N75 is what controls boost, I personally doubt its the waste gate. does the car have a MBC on it? It will be hooked up close to where the n75 is. If you do have a mbc, see if it is hooked up by itself (standalone) it might be a little tricky to notice because most times people will leave their n75 electrical connection hookedup, and just have 2 of the hoses disconnected and hooked up to the mbc. if you are running mbc standalone -this could be your cause of overboosting, at least that is why my car was overboosting.
If you do not have mbc, then it could be n75, they do go bad.

I disconnected my n75 for a short period of time and ran mbc in stand alone and i would get codes for overboosting and it would cut out like what you have happening, basically run in limp mode.

One last thing, if you have a bad egt it will also cause your car to go to limp mode, where it wont boost and be sluggish. that can be intermittent where at one time when you punch it it boosts, then other times it will be doggy. Plus it doesnt always throw a CEL light. But it will show up as a code if you vag it.

Anyway I ended up hooking my n75 back up and now run it parallel with mbc and now its running perfect.

[b5hobsons4]

The car does not have a mbc on it to my knowledge. I will check in the morning. I know I need a boost gauge. It would be really helpful rightnow. I'm gonna look into a temporary one. I was lookin at a cable on ebay a bit ago. I'm gona buy one soon.

[gointoscott]

Sorry for the large print on "A boost gauge is a must" I edited it, after reading it back it looks like Im shouting, and didnt mean to do that.

Anyway. keep us informed what you find with the car.

I wouldnt boost it much until you fix the problem. Hate to see you hurt the turbo's from the overboosting.

[b5hobsons4]

Well, I got my N75 yesterday and I put it in. Turns out, that was it. It don't have any surging and it didn't "kick out" at all. It must have been spiking real bad, because it does not have near the punch that it did when I punched it.. oh well. I can live with it. It pulls hard through every gear now, and it is a lot smoother than it used to be.

My vag-com cable is in the mail. I just need to get the download version from Ross-Tech?

[NogaroWonda00]

are you stage 3? cause if thats the case your always gonna throw the over boost code, but your loss of power defiantly sounds like a boost leak, check your TBB and upper and lower IC hoses

[b5hobsons4]

No, I'm dreamin of being stage 3. I am only stage 1, Chip, 007's and darintake. I'm 95% sure the N75 fixed my problem. I've drove it about a 100 miles and haven't had any of my problems come back. I took it up to 120 with no problems. Pulled strong and didn't cut the throttle.