Need help quickly.... clutch bleeding... pedal is dead

[martini]

Even with the tool build correctly this is being a pain in the ass.... I think I have to re-do the cap... fluid is leaking out at the cap when i pressurize it.

[dirtybrd]

You're supposed to use a bleeder that uses pressurized fluid to bleed it not air pressure.

[martini]

so air into a tank, fluid in the tank is pressurized, goes up a hose and out to the reservoir. got that

my cap must not be tight enough or its got a leak in it because the fluid will seep out of the sides of the cap when i pressurize it.

[martini]

ttt

[eg6siR]

try letting it gravity bleed for an hour or 2 (leave the res. cap off and the bleed valve open, but top it off with fluid as it bleeds off by gravity alone) then, instead of using your pressurized bleeder (which i never use and i work in a tranny shop), just do the pump and bleed method... have someone sit in the car and hold the pedal down, crack open bleeder, and then close it quickly, and then have them release the pedal. do this about 20 times and say the steps out loud so you and your helper are always on the same part of the process the steps go like this" "in"(push in pedal), "open"(open bleeder), "closed"(close bleeder), "out"(release clutch pedal)

so again: "in","open","close","out" do this about 15-20 times after you gravity bleed for a short while.... then when you feel some pedal come back you are almost done, have them pump the pedal like 5 times and hold it down, and do the same steps as above and make sure they never release the pedal while the bleed valve is open or you will have to start over... i hope that helps

[Redgoat]

Did you just install a clutch? Make sure the pressure plate is correctly torqued down (14 ft lbs or 18ft lbs) But if its not tight all the way the fingers of the pressure plate wont be sitting right allowing the slave cylinder to push the throw arm.

[eg6siR]

Did you just install a clutch? Make sure the pressure plate is correctly torqued down (14 ft lbs or 18ft lbs) But if its not tight all the way the fingers of the pressure plate wont be sitting right allowing the slave cylinder to push the throw arm.

he is having trouble bleeding his clutch, not with his pressure plate.

[martini]

try letting it gravity bleed for an hour or 2 (leave the res. cap off and the bleed valve open, but top it off with fluid as it bleeds off by gravity alone) then, instead of using your pressurized bleeder (which i never use and i work in a tranny shop), just do the pump and bleed method... have someone sit in the car and hold the pedal down, crack open bleeder, and then close it quickly, and then have them release the pedal. do this about 20 times and say the steps out loud so you and your helper are always on the same part of the process the steps go like this" "in"(push in pedal), "open"(open bleeder), "closed"(close bleeder), "out"(release clutch pedal)

so again: "in","open","close","out" do this about 15-20 times after you gravity bleed for a short while.... then when you feel some pedal come back you are almost done, have them pump the pedal like 5 times and hold it down, and do the same steps as above and make sure they never release the pedal while the bleed valve is open or you will have to start over... i hope that helps

I've let it gravity bleed for a bit and had a decent amount of fluid come out... then i left the bleeder open and put the power bleeder back on... ran some more fluid into the reservoir and had a decent amount come out the slave cylinder.. i closed off the bleeder and now i'm at the point now where the pedal is semi 'normal'... its not on the ground and its pretty firm... but its not what it used to be.


I started this all because my clutch was dragging. the car was giving me trouble getting into first/reverse and I could hear the clutch dragging even when the pedal was all the way in. If i put it in first, put the clutch in and revved up the engine the car would creep forward a little.

with the pedal as it is now, the car still doesn't want to go into gear. I have it half on the ground, half in the air so I'm not about to force it in gear just to see if it goes.

with the car off, it runs through the gears just fine.


any clue?

[Redgoat]

he is having trouble bleeding his clutch, not with his pressure plate.

Have seen it where the pressure plate isn't on all the way and the clutch wont build up pressure and bleed. so figured that might be a possibility.

[eg6siR]

i closed off the bleeder and now i'm at the point now where the pedal is semi 'normal'... its not on the ground and its pretty firm...

ok, this is the part where you need 2 people... the power bleeder only helps so much and as i said i never use them....

you need to have someone in the car and pump up the pedal and hold it down while you crack open the bleeder have them press the pedal to the floor and hold it there, and you need to close the valve just after they hit the floor, thats why i said to kinda call out the steps to each other as you do them
"in","open","closed","out"

anyway, have someone pump the pedal, open the bleeder for a sec and close it quickly when the pedal hits the floor, and repeat this process until it feels normal.

btw, how old is your clutch?

[martini]

ok, this is the part where you need 2 people... the power bleeder only helps so much and as i said i never use them....

you need to have someone in the car and pump up the pedal and hold it down while you crack open the bleeder have them press the pedal to the floor and hold it there, and you need to close the valve just after they hit the floor, thats why i said to kinda call out the steps to each other as you do them
"in","open","closed","out"

anyway, have someone pump the pedal, open the bleeder for a sec and close it quickly when the pedal hits the floor, and repeat this process until it feels normal.

btw, how old is your clutch?

clutch was replaced a few 1000 miles ago... the clutch itself should be fine

ive bled brakes dozens of times before.. but this seems to be more of a pain in the ass... the bleeder valve on brakes typically is closed, then only a quarter of a turn will open it... this is nearly a full turn ... and of course theres not much clearance so you have to turn, move the wrench and turn again

[eg6siR]

i know what you mean about the clearance, i have one snap-on wrench that fits well. as long as your helper dosnt release the pedal you should be fine to do it the way i described.... as long as that pedal dosnt move outward you shouldnt suck up any air. and it should work.

[martini]

i know what you mean about the clearance, i have one snap-on wrench that fits well. as long as your helper dosnt release the pedal you should be fine to do it the way i described.... as long as that pedal dosnt move outward you shouldnt suck up any air. and it should work.

we just did this and went through it about 15 times... clutch didnt change its feel at all really and the car wont even try to go in gear while its running

[eg6siR]

maybe your slave/master is bad?

[F16HTON]

You cannot just crack the bleeder because there is much more force on the piston of the slave cylinder.

It works best to pre-bleed the slave cylinder, than attach it to the tranny, this way you are not fighting the forces of the pressure plate.

[martini]

so i've manually bled this thing 2 dozen times... my buddy pushes the clutch about 1/4 way down and holds constant pressure.... i open the bleeder and the pedal travels downward with constant pressure... fluid comes out the bleeder.... before he gets to the end of the travel, I close he bleeder


repeat...

drained a decent amount of fluid out.... still no go... im in worse shape then when i started... the car wont go in gear at all, the clutch feels like a stock clutch... which is far from where it needs to be


the brake pedal, however.... its hard as a rock... which I don't get at all.


i honestly just want to get this thing in gear so i can bring it to a place.