Got some issue after a coolant leak.

[buschman]

So I got a coolant leak coming from the rear flange. What a pain of a job! But I got it swapped out and the engine is staying cool now.

While I was doing the swap I made a major boneheaded error. At the rear of the engine there is an oil sensor. I believe it's a pressure sensor, but not positive. But you need to remove the sensor to swap the flange. So this swap took several evenings. One evening I had to move the car and forgot to repace that oil sensor. So even though the engine was on for no more than 10 seconds oil shot EVERYWHERE!

Prior to the swap I was stranded on the way home. So I drove it and would let it cool down if it got too hot. I also did things like shuting the engine off for downhill coasts.

When I refilled the coolant I used prestone orange dexcool 50/50 with distilled water.

So now I have several issues. I've thrown a solid CEL. My heater wont work at idle. My biggest issue is there is a slight rattle/vibration between 2000-2750RPM. It sounds like a heat shroud is loose but in the engine bay nothing is loose. I think it's coming from the top of the engine.

So now I have questions.

1) With this oil sensor. Was there any part in that oil sensor that might have shot out and are causing my rattle? I suspose I can find this out from the parts guy at the local audi dealer.

2) I've been doing some reading and am not 100% sure if I am okay to mix dexcool with the coolant that was in the car already. Should I flush and replenish with G12 or all dexcool?

3) How do I determine what codes have been thrown in the car? Does Audi use the whole solid CEL means emissions issue and blinking means a serious issue? I was thinking intially that having the engine on with the oil system open threw the code. But I've closed it back up and the code remains.

4) Why is my heat dying when I come to a stop? On my other car that means the coolant is low. But I just filled it. Could it be an air pocket? The car isn't over heating, but the lose of heat is annoying.

5) The rattle/vibration is obviously the most concerning issue. I'm praying I've not done any permenant serious damage to the car. The rattle does not seem connected to the turbo spool. The vibration is mild but noticable. It's only in that narrow RPM band. Thoughts on what it might be?

I know this is a lot of stuff. I don't expect someone to know it all. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

Much appreciated.

Mike

[BAILEYWright]

I would probably throw a new stat just to assure myself and there not expensive or hard to do.

[diagnosticator]

I would probably throw a new stat just to assure myself and there not expensive or hard to do.

>$100 for the t-stat.

" How do I determine what codes have been thrown in the car? Does Audi use the whole solid CEL means emissions issue and blinking means a serious issue? I was thinking intially that having the engine on with the oil system open threw the code. But I've closed it back up and the code remains. "

Go to an Autozone they can scan the car for the codes. Otherwise a VAG-COM is required.

A heater that has those symptoms, either the cooling system has an air lock, or the coolent pump impeller is slipping on the drive shaft.

[buschman]

Okay so I went to Advanced and ran my codes. Here they are:

P0118 Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High Input
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A - Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction

Any thoughts on what these mean?

This rattle vibration is really obvious. My gut is telling me the water pump is shot and making that sound. Has anyone ever had a bad water pump and did it make a sound like this? At idle the engine sound normal. Right around 1800- 2000 RPMs you get a very audible vibration sound(sounds like a loose exhaust heat shield or plastic card in bicycle spokes) it comes on and is it's loudest. As RPMs increase it quites a slightly. At around 2800-3000 RPMs the vibration is half as loud and begins to wobble(sound going in and out), then by 4K RPMs it's gone and sounds like a normal engine again.

My audi has 84K miles on it and to my knowledge(bought it at 62K) has not had the timing belt changed. If this is a water pump I'm just going to go ahead and get the timing belt kit with the water pump.

Not sure about the camshaft position sensor. Where is that located? Is that, by chance, the part I was talking about in my first post? I thought it was an oil pressure sensor, but I suppose it could be a cam position sensor.

Just FYI the engine seems to be maintaining a normal operating temperature. At least according to the dash readings.

Thanks for the advice thus far Bailey and diagnosticator.

Mike

[buschman]

Any thoughts?

Can anyone confirm where the camshaft position sensor is located?

I know audizine is great for mod info, but is there a place that has really good mechanical fix info? Or maybe a specific user I can PM?

Thanks so much guys.

Mike Busch

[buschman]

I think I have found the part I'm speaking of in this post. Check this link out:

Cam Timing Chain Tensioner If this is located on the back I am almost positive that the peice I removed(The black sensor) and started the car with it off. I think there is a peice that may have shot out.

Thoughts? Can I get this peice without having to by a $324 tensioner?

Thanks,
Mike

[buschman]

bump

Any thoughts?

[old guy]

bump

Any thoughts?

If you unbolted the black portion of the cam chain tension adjuster and started the car you probably blew out the internal actuator. That's why oil sprayed everywhere. The cam chain tension adjuster requires hydraulic (oil) pressure to operate. The rattling you are hearing is most likely coming from the cam chain. Unfortunately you will probably have to purchase a new adjuster to get the missing part.

Good luck!

[buschman]

If you unbolted the black portion of the cam chain tension adjuster and started the car you probably blew out the internal actuator. That's why oil sprayed everywhere. The cam chain tension adjuster requires hydraulic (oil) pressure to operate. The rattling you are hearing is most likely coming from the cam chain. Unfortunately you will probably have to purchase a new adjuster to get the missing part.

Good luck!

I think you're dead on and I ordered the part tonight. It's tough to make a $324 mistake. :( But I learned a $324 lesson and if I had taken the car to the Audi dealer I would ave paid 4 times as much. So even with this costly error, it's still cheaper than it would have been if I had a mechanic do it.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out guys. I'll report back if the actuator helps.

Mike