Opinions on K&N OIL filter

[Spykce]

I am just curious on the opinion of the K&N oil filters. At autozone today they started the castrol sale again however the package for Syntec comes with a K&N filter. $30 isn't bad for 5 quarts and a filter if the filter is known to be a good one for our cars.

[bass_lover1]

I am just curious on the opinion of the K&N oil filters. At autozone today they started the castrol sale again however the package for Syntec comes with a K&N filter. $30 isn't bad for 5 quarts and a filter if the filter is known to be a good one for our cars.

I've heard mixed reviews on the K&N oil filters.

The only filter I use for my 1.8T is the Purolator P40316 that can be found at discount auto for about 7 bucks. It's made by Mahle (same producer as the OEM filters) and it is the higher capacity version as well.

[Seerlah]

I get my filters from here. And currently became an Amsoil preferred customer, so I pay wholesale prices. I will eventually try the Amsoil filters when I run out of my Mann filters.

I usually try things out to see if I like it or not. $30 is a good deal. I would get it and see if I like it. Then you would know if it is a recommendable product to use and grant reviews on it to other members when the inquiry arises again.

[1NaudiA4]

Just go with the BIG stock one

[ct1.8t4me]

either get the amsoil Ea filter or a AEM Dryflow. The K&N only flows well when its clean and its a lot more involved in cleaning and oiling a K&N rather than just blowing the dirt out of the Amsoil.

I think they're talking about OIL filters...

On another note, how does one go about deciding if they like an oil filter?

I mean, I know SOME people would go out of their way to take oil samples and have them evaluated, but on the other hand, a lot of this is just hand-me-down internet fanboyism about a particular brand or other.

[ludoboy]

I've got one on my A4 1.8T quattro

[LowSantorin]

Ive used it. Seems bigger than most and looks like good quality!

[Spykce]

It is slightly larger than the mobil 1 filter it seems like. I was just curious if anyone had any issues using them. I have the mobil 1 on now, used mann previously. I'll probably pick up a package, 5 quarts alone is over $30...

[newtonc2001A4V6]

Internally, it is the same as the Mobil-1 oil filter. Both are very good filters.

[pho1n1x]

and right now there's the buy 5qts M1 get M1 filter free at Advanced Auto Parts right now too... just picked up some 0w40 and a filter for the winter :D

[01audia4]

I have the mobile filter on mine, i run Mobile European car formula in mine as well. Runs amazing

I used to run the purlators but they are tiny, I notice my oil temp much lower running the mobile

[djwimbo]

Good filter, I wouldn't use Castrol though. I hate that stuff.
Mobil 1, Motul, etc. ... Hell even Shell's Syn oil is decent. We buy that in barrels for customers that want bulk Syn oil changes.

[UN-PIMP-Z-A4]

On another note, how does one go about deciding if they like an oil filter?

I mean, I know SOME people would go out of their way to take oil samples and have them evaluated, but on the other hand, a lot of this is just hand-me-down internet fanboyism about a particular brand or other.

nice...

[jzobie]

Actually the K&N is the exact same filter as the Mobil 1, it is much bigger than stock, I use it on my 2.8.

[bass_lover1]

Good filter, I wouldn't use Castrol though. I hate that stuff.
Mobil 1, Motul, etc. ... Hell even Shell's Syn oil is decent. We buy that in barrels for customers that want bulk Syn oil changes.

Any particular reason why?

I ask because I refuse to use Mobil 1, as it's the only oil in my 60k miles of ownership that my motor has burned a noticeable amount off. By noticeable I mean about 1.5-2 quarts. I've had zero issues with Castrol, particularly the 0w30 variety.

[Spykce]

I'm curious as well, when I read through a bunch of the old topics deciding what oil to use the 5w-40 and 0w-30 european formula's were both mentioned as good oil for the 1.8 engine. I'm not set on any oil, just looking for convience and the right stuff. I've considered ording a pack of mann filters and a bunch of elf and calling it good... lol

[LowSantorin]

PureMS has a kit with total oil (which is elf from what i can tell)and a filter for close to 30$! But if you can get that local thats a damn good deal, the K&N i used was much bigger than stock and i had no problems with it.

[djwimbo]

Any particular reason why?

I ask because I refuse to use Mobil 1, as it's the only oil in my 60k miles of ownership that my motor has burned a noticeable amount off. By noticeable I mean about 1.5-2 quarts. I've had zero issues with Castrol, particularly the 0w30 variety.

I don't like the detergents Castrol uses. Some may not believe me, but oil has different detergents based on the area it's shipped to, or at least some companies do this. Castrol is one of them. The midwest and specifically shops in this area have had issues with customers that live in the South over winter and this are in the summer. Sludge, oil breakdown and poor performance was the result. Besides the lifestyle of the "old people" the one thing they found in common was the Castrol oil.

Oil has given ratings based on lubricity, "weight"/viscosity, and API standards. Outside of those parameters the company can choose to put in additives or not.

Have you ever pulled off an oil cap to find some caramel, beige, or yellow substance all over the bottom of it? That's the additives in your oil, they separate from the oil a lot of times from short trips and incomplete heat cycles.

I use Mobil 1 for a couple of reasons. #1 it's readily accessible #2 I have been happy with their products in everything I've owned #3 I know a handful of race teams that only use their products and are 100% happy with them #4 I haven't had any issues with my vehicles to raise any concern of what oil I have been putting in them.

Example, My truck. I changed the oil every 3000 miles. I use Mobil 1 oil and a WIX filter. After the 4th oil change(using M1) I checked my oil level 2800 miles into that oil change. The oil was still as clean as new.

Current example. My 1.8T. In the last 2 months we've had a couple customers come in with 105-120K 1.8T A4's similar to mine (except without performance mods) with oil pressure issues. These cars couldn't hold 15psi of oil pressure at idle, and had records of their oil changes every 3-4K. I have >177K on all stock internals. I purchased the car with 154K on it and have been running nothing but M1 0W-40 since then. I installed an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it, but I maintain 100% oil press specs. I've tried a couple different filters and so far my top 3 fav filters are the M1, Mann and WIX.

[jzobie]

Current example. My 1.8T. In the last 2 months we've had a couple customers come in with 105-120K 1.8T A4's similar to mine (except without performance mods) with oil pressure issues. These cars couldn't hold 15psi of oil pressure at idle, and had records of their oil changes every 3-4K. I have >177K on all stock internals. I purchased the car with 154K on it and have been running nothing but M1 0W-40 since then. I installed an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it, but I maintain 100% oil press specs. I've tried a couple different filters and so far my top 3 fav filters are the M1, Mann and WIX.

Not to sound like I am anti Mobil 1 because I believe that they make quality products and I use them in my car personally as well but your comment makes little sense. The cars that you are talking about have issues at 105-120K miles but you have only been using M1 from 154-177K miles. That means that your motor did just fine before you started using M1. I also found on my old car with sludge problems that Castrol GTX cleared the problems up within 3 oil changes.

[djwimbo]

Not to sound like I am anti Mobil 1 because I believe that they make quality products and I use them in my car personally as well but your comment makes little sense. The cars that you are talking about have issues at 105-120K miles but you have only been using M1 from 154-177K miles. That means that your motor did just fine before you started using M1. I also found on my old car with sludge problems that Castrol GTX cleared the problems up within 3 oil changes.

The previous owner of my car used M1, he just used 5W-30.
As far as the Castrol GTX goes, I'd find it hard to believe that oil changes with any other brand (presumably higher quality than what was being used) would have resulted in anything else.

There are people that swear by M1, and also swear by Fram filters. I don't understand that in any way, shape or form.

I'm not claiming to by "The oil guy", but I'm not sponsored by any oil companies either. I'm going off the experiences I've seen and what I have heard through reliable sources. Everybody knows "the old guy" at the local shop, around here, all the "old guys" use M1 in everything they own. Lawnmowers, boats, cars, bikes, etc.

EDIT: FWIW you haven't seen me drive my 177K Audi 1.8T, that thing deserves some credit, especially for a factory boosted car. I beat the hell out of that thing and she keeps on kicking.

[newtonc2001A4V6]

I don't like the detergents Castrol uses. Some may not believe me, but oil has different detergents based on the area it's shipped to, or at least some companies do this. Castrol is one of them. The midwest and specifically shops in this area have had issues with customers that live in the South over winter and this are in the summer. Sludge, oil breakdown and poor performance was the result. Besides the lifestyle of the "old people" the one thing they found in common was the Castrol oil.

I am not sure about the other grades, but this is not true with the 0W30 product, which is Made in Germany. It is a very good oil and meets VW502/505, ACEA A3, BMW LL-01, etc.

Example, My truck. I changed the oil every 3000 miles. I use Mobil 1 oil and a WIX filter. After the 4th oil change(using M1) I checked my oil level 2800 miles into that oil change. The oil was still as clean as new.

Some forums I have read would suggest this means the oil isn't doing its job. Oil should get dirty as it cleans the engine and as contaminants are suspended in the oil. I would be concerned if my oil wasn't getting dark.

Having said that, Mobil 1 0W40 is also a very good oil, I just prefer Castrol Syntec 0W30. YMMV.

[Mawhitey]

I am currently rocking a K&N filter and its much larger that anything i have used so far. Its only been on a week so dont have any tips on longevity etc. But the air filters they make/distribute are good quality so no reason why the oil filter will be any different

[djwimbo]

Some forums I have read would suggest this means the oil isn't doing its job. Oil should get dirty as it cleans the engine and as contaminants are suspended in the oil. I would be concerned if my oil wasn't getting dark.

I'm not worried about what other forums suggest. The example given on my truck, I know how the first couple oil changes looked. I also know how much better (and cleaner) the oil got, after each oil change.

I'd be willing to bet 50% of the cars that I work on during the week, upon and oil change could come back in 48hrs and the oil would be black. My vehicles after ~10K do not have this problem. The first 10K I use a quality oil (95% of the time Mobil 1) and it does clean out the engine. It cannot clean out the varnish, but does help eliminate any build up or contaminants.

Yes, the oil is supposed to contain the contaminants and carry them through the oil filter. At some point the oil filter will become "full" of contaminants and loose it's ability to remove such a high percentage of those contaminants. This is why everyone suggests the larger filters, such as Mobil 1, Mann, Wix, etc. The larger area of filtration means that there can be more contaminants removed at the oil change. This is also the same reason oil companies, manufacturers, technicians, etc. recommend doing your oil change while the oil is hot (>150*F). At that point the contaminants are still suspended in the oil, and therefore you are removing more of the contaminants.

.... I just said contaminants a lot.

[jjjoe]

Hi all,

There is an article in the current or previous issue of European Car about motor oil. The gist of it is that you should use motor oil that is approved by your manufacturer. In my case VW502.00 for my 2000 tqm. It might be worth checking out. I don't have a link, but there is a website where oil filters are disassembled and checked out by someone with an interest in what is inside. Also could be of use.

Joe

[Spykce]

It's always interesting to see who prefers what and why. I have people that come into work and will ONLY use pennzoil and a fram filter. This can be said for about any oil and filter however. Quaker State and STP are another combo that is common. So what is the take on elf? Everyone seems to like it. I need a dipstick, tube, and some g12 anyways so maybe I'll just order that to have for the spring.