I wouldn't worry too much about premature wear to your clutch disc or pressure plate. It really doesn't sound like you drove enough (or put it through enough abuse) to cause any serious problem.
I would try to bleed your clutch before you just throw money at the problem by buying replacement parts or paying someone to check for you. This isn't a very difficult thing to do and there's no need to pay a mechanic for such an easy job. This could very well fix your problem since you haven't *necessarily* indicated a "faulty" slave clyinder.
Your "clutch reseviour" contains brake fluid but is seperate from your brake fluid reseviour. Any DOT 3/4 should be fine. Check the upper right section of your engine bay for a skinny container that's smaller then your brake fluid resevior. First check the level of fluid in the reseviour, it should normally sit somewhere between the low and high marks.
To bleed the system it's easier to use a buddy. *Quick FYI - brake fluid can give you a mild burning sensation on your skin and isn't great for your eyes, so use protective goggles and whatever else you feel is appropriate*. First top off your fluid level. Don't worry about over-filling at this point, your fluid will drop in while bleeding it. Locate the slave clyinder attached to your transmission. It will have a little bleeder valve located on it just like a brake caliper. It might be a good idea at this point to have your buddy lift the clutch pedal off the floor with their hand and press it to the floor to pump it. Have them do this a few times while you are under the car and look for any leaks. Also watch the rod at the end of your slave clyinder as it moves in and out. The pressure that is ultimately started by pushing your clutch pedal will cause pressure to build in the line and cause the slave clyinder rod to extend on the bottom of your clutch fork. This clutch fork ultimately pivots on your clutch ball and moves the throw-out bearing attached to the top of your clutch fork to press against the tips off your pressure plate which press your clutch disc/puck against your flywheel).
If you haven't noticed any relevant leaks by this point, you are ready to start bleeding. Use a 10mm wrench (or similar, depending on vehicle) to loosen the bleeder valve on your slave clyinder. To catch the fluid that will come out, try using a small plastic soda bottle with a piece of rubber tubing going securely into the bottle through the rubber cap. Attach the other end of the tubing to your bleeder valve.
*The idea is that you loosen the valve, then have your buddy push and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. While the pedal is still pressed to the floor, close the bleeder valve so no air can enter while the pedal is going back up. When the valve is loosened enough (usually only a fraction of a rotation is needed), fluid will start to come out of your slave clyinder. At first, there may only be air coming out. Keep going and you will see what I'll describe as white foam (air mixed with fluid). Eventually, only fluid will come out. It also helps a lot if you can build up a bit of pressure (check clutch pedal feel) before you start bleeding.*
Watch the fluid level in your clutch reseviour while doing this. It's usually ok to the fluid level drop below the "low" mark, but don't let all of the fluid drain from the resevior. Fill as needed.
If you'd like to go an extra step, bleed your slave clyinder by itself. This is easy. All you have to do it remove the bleeder valve entirely from the slave clyinder and push and hold the end of the slave rod with your hand. After the fluid squirts out, thread the bleeder valve back into place and make sure it is tight before you let the rod out.
Try this first and send me a PM if you have any questions.
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Originally Posted by JayyyyyC
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