Engine shuts off after 2 seconds

[amer1c]

My car was involved in an accident. I fixed everything myself--- from suspension work: wheel bearing housing, control arms to the tranny support steel bracket --- while I was at it... I did a timing belt change along with all new belts. Changed the spark plugs, put in a new radiator, did a coolant flush ... oil change.

Now to my problem:

After I did the timing belt change (last thing I did to car) --- I cranked it up after it was done and ran it for 30 seconds. It ran and idled fine.

A day later, I hosed off the entire engine bay (in the Florida heat) --- and flew back to New York ... now 4 weeks later I've returned and when the engine starts... it dies in 2 seconds. It goes to around 1100 RPM and bam dead. I checked my boost gauge and the vacuum pressure appears to be normal.

People are telling me it could be the MAF. (I took my MAF out of the housing--- I don't know how to tell if it's bad or not? (possibly no way visually)) but what should I do? I ordered a new MAF ... and I HAVE to drive back to New York on Thursday ... I can't miss work. I'm stuck here. When I left, the car started fine ... now 4-weeks later and I'm back in Florida ... I have this problem.

Is it definitely the MAF?

Guys, please chime in --- I'm an Audi fanatic and DIYer... I have any tool I need at my disposal right now minus a VAG-COM

[slopoke]

will it start and run ok w/o the maf?

[amer1c]

I have the MAF out right now--- what should I do put a piece of papertowel over the intake tube?

I'm waiting on someone to come here right now and give me a jumpstart, so I can test it out.

If it runs fine without the MAF does that mean it's the MAF?

And if it doesn't run without the MAF does that eliminate the MAF ... because I've read of people having fauly MAFs and still not being able to run without them.

Thanks.

[t1demont1]

If it runs fine without the maf, you just need a new maf. To delete the maf, you dont need to do anything. You can leave it in the housing and just unplug it. It sounds like you have it out of the housing, so unplug it and turn the car on.

What part of FL are you in, if your in or close to orlando i might be able to help you out.

[amer1c]

Just take the maf housing out, or put the maf back in the housing and leave it unplugged. What part of FL are you in? if your local maybe i can lend a hand, or i can direct you to somene who can.

I'm an hour west of you, I believe (you're in Orlando?) --- I'm in Brooksville.

[amer1c]

Update. I just ran it without the MAF. No luck either.

But back with the MAF:

The car dies instantly... it goes up to about 200 RPMs. If I pump the gas, not too hard, it'll flux between like 500-1500 ... that's only if I lightly pump the gas.

The only way it'll run for 2-3 seconds is if I pump the gas.

Ideas?

[t1demont1]

Did you uplug the battery when you did the timing belt, did the battery die in the 4 week period you were gone? If so then you may need to adapt your throttle body and that could be the problem.

[amer1c]

I just went out and bought and OBD2 reader

Got 2 codes:

P1545 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too High

You're a genius, man. How do I adapt the throttle body?

[Toyotatech]

It's not the maf, unplugging it will cause the car to open loop and it would run then if the maf was at fault.

[Toyotatech]

It should atomaticly adapt by leaving the ignition on for 10 min. I believe. You can also do it with vag com.

[GetBoosted84]

If you have a large boost leak the car will immediately shut off after plugging in the MAF. Have you checked for leaks?

[amer1c]

I tried leaving the key in the accessory port in the ignition and letting it sit for 10 minutes. I'm still getting the same readout code:

P1545
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17953/P1545/005445

I tried disconnecting the battery for a minute ...
Then turning the key to the accessory port ... letting it sit for 10 minutes
Then starting it ...

Same issue though ... ?

Am I resetting it incorrectly?

[zrowcool]

you would need to turn the key to the on position without starting the engine. try this: unplug both battery cables and hold them together for 30secs. ( this will erase all codes and reset the ECU and all it's values.) then connect both battery cables again and turn the ignition to on without cranking. let it sit and you should hear the throttle body adapting. after the 10 minutes turn off the ifnition and try starting it again. hope this helps

[amer1c]

I just tried what you said--- thanks for the reply, bytheway.

But, to no avail... the code gets cleared, then after sitting for 10 minutes (without even starting it --- the code is right back)

The only thing I can think of is that I hosed down that area (not a lot of water, but a low-midlow stream) --- could I possibly have gotten dirt into some area of the TB?

[amer1c]

I've been trying to research / read other threads on AZ looking for insight.

Should I clean my MAF and TB ?

I read on various sources the way to clean a MAF is to submerge it 1/2 way in alcohol?

And for the TB should I just get throttle body cleaner? (And do I have to take the TB off the car to use the cleaner?)

[slopoke]

No tb can stay on car... I would say sea foam but if the car wont run ya cant do that...

[amer1c]

No tb can stay on car... I would say sea foam but if the car wont run ya cant do that...

So, I just take off the hose pipe to the TB?

[amer1c]

Update:

When I disconnect the wire to the TB--- if I give it gas it'll run... it won't idle though.

Does this indicate something?

[amer1c]

Alright. Since I'm stuck down here in Florida... and need to get back home ASAP ...

I'm offering $50 to the person who gives me a solution to my problem.

Problem:

Coes:
P1545 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too High

With all wire connections made, car revs up to 200 RPMs and dies.

With the wire connection to the throttle body disconnected, if I engage the throttle ... it'll rev/run. As soon as I take my foot off the gas, it dies.

I tried just disconnecting the MAF --- same problem. No difference.

I tried doing the throttle adaption method listed here. No difference.

I'm desperate here --- I'm in Brooksville, Florida.

To reiterate $50 paypal to the first person who offers me a solution to fix this DIY.

[AudiRacerS4]

check fuse #29 its a 20 amp fuse for engine timing if it blows the car will not stay running, check it out sometimes when you wash the engine it blows also unplug the wires from the coil packs and make sure there is no water in them

[dobos100]

[QUOTE=amer1c;2984944]I just tried what you said--- thanks for the reply, bytheway.

But, to no avail... the code gets cleared, then after sitting for 10 minutes (without even starting it --- the code is right back)



I had the same problem before and my throttle body would not adapt using the ignition method either, it only worked with a VAG-COM. I bet that would solve your problem.

[amer1c]

I checked it yesterday :-/

[nimski62]

-Leave battery disconnected for a few hours, possibly over night. Worked for me in my b6, same problem.

[amer1c]

[QUOTE=dobos100;2985553]

I just tried what you said--- thanks for the reply, bytheway.

But, to no avail... the code gets cleared, then after sitting for 10 minutes (without even starting it --- the code is right back)



I had the same problem before and my throttle body would not adapt using the ignition method either, it only worked with a VAG-COM. I bet that would solve your problem.

Hrm.

[Beemer832]

second what audi racer said. check that fuse.
i'd imagine that when you washed the car, being in florida, the water SHOULD have evaporated by now but you never know. Also if it was water causing a short it would misfire like crazy but still run. This sounds more like a computer/sensor electrical problem because of the way it will run with the TB unplugged.

I am also assuming this is a 1.8 engine, what engine is this? AEB? AWM?

-josh

[AudiRacerS4]

second what audi racer said. check that fuse.
i'd imagine that when you washed the car, being in florida, the water SHOULD have evaporated by now but you never know. Also if it was water causing a short it would misfire like crazy but still run. This sounds more like a computer/sensor electrical problem because of the way it will run with the TB unplugged.

I am also assuming this is a 1.8 engine, what engine is this? AEB? AWM?

-josh

yeah sounds like you have a short somewhere or water is interfering with a connection check all the fuses and maybe use an air compressor to blow out the engine bay to get any loose water out also try unplugging all the connectors in the engine bay and see if there is water in them. DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR ENGINE TIMING FUSES they blow when something shorts them out (ie. water)

[Beemer832]

next time dont wash your engine bay when you need it to run again :)... lol

or at least disconnect and remove the batter, cover as much of the electricals as possible, and blow off any excess water before starting.

-josh

[amer1c]

All fuses are good. I checked all of them yesterday.

I washed the car around a month ago --- so, any water is dried up by now.

The car is a '99 A4 Avant 1.8TQM (AEB) (laser red, for who care ;))

[amer1c]

[QUOTE=dobos100;2985553]

I just tried what you said--- thanks for the reply, bytheway.

But, to no avail... the code gets cleared, then after sitting for 10 minutes (without even starting it --- the code is right back)



I had the same problem before and my throttle body would not adapt using the ignition method either, it only worked with a VAG-COM. I bet that would solve your problem.

Hrm ... that would be a beautiful thing ... if that's all that's wrong with it.

[amer1c]

Anyone close to Brooksville? I'll pay ya to VAG-COM me.

[amer1c]

Damn --- in a few hours, I'll have to get this SOB car towed 20~ miles to a place, who probably barely knows how to work on Audis. :|

[Beemer832]

what did you find out? good news?

-josh

[amer1c]

Nothing new. Having my cousin overnight ship me down from NY my windows laptop & obd2 cable & vag-com software.

(I brought my mac laptop not thinking I'd need to use VAG-COM ;()

I'm going to try doing the TB adaption via VAG-COM --- I followed someones tip with leaving the battery disconnected overnight... no luck.

Cheers, everyone.

[Beemer832]

VMWare, check it out. you can run a full version of win xp or any other OS onto of a MAC. Thats how I run my vagcom software wiht my MAC.

-josh

[amer1c]

Want to rip me a copy of the Win emulator? ;) I'll set you up with an FTP to host it and throw you a few bones for helping!

[Beemer832]

i would dude but this copy is a corporate copy on my corporate laptop on our corporate internet connection. Not sure I want to risk that :)

I am sure you can find a copy of it and then unlock it. its called VMWare

sorry bro

[amer1c]

Yeah. Years ago--- I used VMWare on my old Mac.

I search the mainstream torrent networks--- no luck.

It doesn't matter what version it is, corporate or whatever as long as you don't give the key with it. ;)

Your corporate version is identical to all other corporate ones. Just the thing that separates you all is your cd/product key. But, yeah I understand, man. Was worth a shot.

[JoBuNY]

When somebody gives you a jump start, if you keep the battery cables hooked up from their car does it stay running any longer?

[k0mpresd]

I search the mainstream torrent networks--- no luck.

dude, newsgroups. p2p is crap.

and parallels works pretty well too. back a year ago when i owned that garbage called a macbook, thats what i used to run vagcom.

on a sidenote, i got a 2.5mb up connection, you know, in case you need anything. ;) its supposed to be 10mbit up. but my node can only seem to handle 2.5.

[amer1c]

Alright, guys. I had my laptop and OBD2 cable shipped down to me. I got VAG-COM by Ross-tech working. I did a throttle body adaption--- bingo... car idles now.

Just one major new problem: the car won't go past 3000 RPMs ... if it's idling and I rev it, it revs fine until I push it past 3000 RPMs... then the car just hits hard and drops ... and when I'm driving it, too. I took it for a 10-mile drive just now... I can't take it past 3000 RPMs.