BT contest !!

[dandmx04]

Hi guys !!

..this crazy ideea hit me , becase so many of us are waiting for this BT kit to come out i'd say that we can hurry a bit these companys by starting this thread and basically get some pending orders for the 1st company who brings it out , what do you say ?
I want a BT on my car at the beginig of 2009 , and i'm ready to make a deposit

[Goped220]

Auto Speed all the way. You will be very happy. You also get a GT3071R Turbo which is bigger than the GT2871R that most of the kits are using.

[slimmj0k3r]

how about a who can hit over 400awhp contest? , thats what the b6 guys are doing

[Vorsprung]

how about a who can hit over 400awhp contest? , thats what the b6 guys are doing

I like the sound of that.

Im gonna shoot for that in a few years, being a student=no money

[Nico]

Hi guys !!

..this crazy ideea hit me , becase so many of us are waiting for this BT kit to come out i'd say that we can hurry a bit these companys by starting this thread and basically get some pending orders for the 1st company who brings it out , what do you say ?
I want a BT on my car at the beginig of 2009 , and i'm ready to make a deposit

Wouldn't you rather purchase the best possible upgrade for your money? I would wait for them to all come out and then purchase the best one. What if you buy the first one only to discover there are problems with it or it doesn't put out as much power as the others?

[RedS-line]

good things come to people who wait...........

[BLACKa4QUAT]

Wouldn't you rather purchase the best possible upgrade for your money? I would wait for them to all come out and then purchase the best one. What if you buy the first one only to discover there are problems with it or it doesn't put out as much power as the others?

well somebody's got to buy the kits and break first / dyno their car. if we all waited, then there wouldnt be anybody to buy the kits first.

[Nico]

well somebody's got to buy the kits and break first / dyno their car. if we all waited, then there wouldnt be anybody to buy the kits first.

True, but you know there are some people who love one brand and it doesn't matter what they bring out they will buy it. So just wait and learn from these people. Also as people start to decide on which kit to go for, more inside information begins to come out about the kit designs and you can also use this info to learn from.

[BLACKa4QUAT]

True, but you know there are some people who love one brand and it doesn't matter what they bring out they will buy it. So just wait and learn from these people. Also as people start to decide on which kit to go for, more inside information begins to come out about the kit designs and you can also use this info to learn from.

learning from other's mistakes FTW

some people also always got to have the latest and greatest. although i cant afford a bt kit now, so by the time i can, i'll be able to see what kits hold up the best. heh.

[C.J.@STaSIS]

We've got the big turbo you're looking for TODAY!!! You don't have to worry about going with the first and figuring out the kinks, we've done that for you.

The kit spools faster than the big turbos you’re referring too and generates more “area under the curve”. 320hp/310lbft, 30m.p.g., C.A.R.B. approved and complete with all the necessary hardware and software to run circles around an S4 – all yours for $4999.00. Did I mention no rebuilds required?

If you’d like to maintain your 4-year/50,000 mile warranty, we can do that too through our Signature Series dealerships.

[RedS-line]

bump for stasis. if you guys had a BT A4 at every dealer that sells your stuff it would be the ultimate selling tool. Or maybe just take one to all of them like on tour. I really need a ride in one before Im gonna commit that kind of dough, but thats just me.

[dandmx04]

I talked to auto speed guys..and they said that in 2months the kit will be on the market , i hope they manage to do so..

Auto Speed all the way. You will be very happy. You also get a GT3071R Turbo which is bigger than the GT2871R that most of the kits are using.

[dandmx04]

..just read the hole Stasis BT thread and looked for darren@SW dyno numbers and coudn't find them. Either way i don't think that Stasis BT is what everyone was expecting for a BT kit . Looking forward for VF logs and other companys like Auto speed and AWE to come up with thei version

[gpultro]

OK let me say that ASP is the best kit out there safe and fast, and real numbers will be given not that crank crap that APR gives out. As for the 400awhp the problem is not the turbos I'm sure the 2871 could do it i know i can def do it. the prob is the stock block! no one knows what it can actually hold.

so right now i am at 320 and 320 wheel on 18psi. going Strong for 3 weeks now no issues

ASP and i are going to go for 350 the first week of November and if that hold maybe shoot for 370 max but i would not think about going above that unless there is proof of our engines holding it.

it cost more to blow the engine then to build it and then boost the shit out of it...

ASP GT3071r is a nasty kit and it has so much room for the serious tuner

let me know what you think

[slimmj0k3r]

OK let me say that ASP is the best kit out there safe and fast, and real numbers will be given not that crank crap that APR gives out. As for the 400awhp the problem is not the turbos I'm sure the 2871 could do it i know i can def do it. the prob is the stock block! no one knows what it can actually hold.

so right now i am at 320 and 320 wheel on 18psi. going Strong for 3 weeks now no issues

ASP and i are going to go for 350 the first week of November and if that hold maybe shoot for 370 max but i would not think about going above that unless there is proof of our engines holding it.

it cost more to blow the engine then to build it and then boost the shit out of it...

ASP GT3071r is a nasty kit and it has so much room for the serious tuner

let me know what you think

agreed, but i think with the right precautions you CAN get up to 400awhp and maybe even more. We've seen the stock block take a crap at 400whp (topdogg from wolfcars i believe).your a great example of what the stock block can hold for someone who doesnt really want to build their motor, your definately pushing the limits and i believe many people won't dabble with their motors for a while or until they get more power hungry or their warranty runs out lol

can our block be built? yes. can our head be built? yes but to a certain extent, still no ETA on the cams.

in short, build a block (forged parts) and push the limits. your buiilding your block correct? I believe someone else is building a block as well, and my block is gonna be started very sooon, lets push the limits, i know i am lol

[gpultro]

agreed, but i think with the right precautions you CAN get up to 400awhp and maybe even more. We've seen the stock block take a crap at 400whp (topdogg from wolfcars i believe).your a great example of what the stock block can hold for someone who doesnt really want to build their motor, your definately pushing the limits and i believe many people won't dabble with their motors for a while or until they get more power hungry or their warranty runs out lol

can our block be built? yes. can our head be built? yes but to a certain extent, still no ETA on the cams.

in short, build a block (forged parts) and push the limits. your buiilding your block correct? I believe someone else is building a block as well, and my block is gonna be started very sooon, lets see what happens because i'm def aiming for some pretty high numbers that i feel will be attainable

I just wish one of the big tyrants of the industry like ASP, APR, VF, and who ever else is out there just took our engine and pushed it to the limits on there buck so we can find out where our breaking point is at. cause i sure dont want to be that pig...lol

you figure a new engine if you blow it is like 9 grand and then labor or something. or you can get pistons and rods with labor for like 5 grand and be where you want to be...

i have heard that the vw 2.0 t with stage 3 is hitting 370 wheel safely but that is also front wheel drive... so the question out there is whats our limit and no speculation i want hard core proof from one of these performance shops and that guy wolfgang or what ever had so much crap running on that car he would have been safer BT and then pushing up the boost instead of everything else then since he was willing to go balls out we would have found out what limit our engines could hold

what do you think?

[slimmj0k3r]

I just wish one of the big tyrants of the industry like ASP, APR, VF, and who ever else is out there just took our engine and pushed it to the limits on there buck so we can find out where our breaking point is at. cause i sure dont want to be that pig...lol

you figure a new engine if you blow it is like 9 grand and then labor or something. or you can get pistons and rods with labor for like 5 grand and be where you want to be...

i have heard that the vw 2.0 t with stage 3 is hitting 370 wheel safely but that is also front wheel drive... so the question out there is whats our limit and no speculation i want hard core proof from one of these performance shops and that guy wolfgang or what ever had so much crap running on that car he would have been safer BT and then pushing up the boost instead of everything else then since he was willing to go balls out we would have found out what limit our engines could hold

what do you think?

agreed, but waiting for tuners to do stuff like that is up in the air, most of our tuners (except VF) slap their kits on the stock block for a safe, reliable, and cost effective tune. VF so far are the only people that offer forged pistons and rods and that kit claims 401hp/352tq at the crank. someone has to take on the guinea pig roll which i dont mind doing, i'm doing this for me but i'm giving 100% insight on exactly what i do so if i am successful more can follow. I'm calculating every step, looking into what to look for, making sure everything can hold the power i want, researching, and making sure im covering my ass to the fullest extent. i feel very strongly towards all my plans and i know i will get it done reguardless and hopefully past my goal with minimal problems

[A4ringedONE8T]

how about a who can hit over 400awhp contest? , thats what the b6 guys are doing

Except we have 400whp cars that cant get to the dyno and still run 13/14's lol

[A4ringedONE8T]

OK let me say that ASP is the best kit out there safe and fast, and real numbers will be given not that crank crap that APR gives out. As for the 400awhp the problem is not the turbos I'm sure the 2871 could do it i know i can def do it. the prob is the stock block! no one knows what it can actually hold.

so right now i am at 320 and 320 wheel on 18psi. going Strong for 3 weeks now no issues

ASP and i are going to go for 350 the first week of November and if that hold maybe shoot for 370 max but i would not think about going above that unless there is proof of our engines holding it.

it cost more to blow the engine then to build it and then boost the shit out of it...

ASP GT3071r is a nasty kit and it has so much room for the serious tuner

let me know what you think

Or you could put in a set of $350 IE drop in rods and not have to worry about the motor one bit

And FYI to all of you, the 2.0FSI GTI GT3071R REVO Beta car just did 509whp this past Friday and ran 11.40's @ 124 with ONLY IE DROP IN RODS!

[dougyfresh]

agreed, but waiting for tuners to do stuff like that is up in the air, most of our tuners (except VF) slap their kits on the stock block for a safe, reliable, and cost effective tune. VF so far are the only people that offer forged pistons and rods and that kit claims 401hp/352tq at the crank. someone has to take on the guinea pig roll which i dont mind doing, i'm doing this for me but i'm giving 100% insight on exactly what i do so if i am successful more can follow. I'm calculating every step, looking into what to look for, making sure everything can hold the power i want, researching, and making sure im covering my ass to the fullest extent. i feel very strongly towards all my plans and i know i will get it done reguardless and hopefully past my goal with minimal problems

They do that because the majority of their sales will be to customers that do not want to build their motors and want reliable bolt-on power from a BT kit.

The built motors are few which is one reason why the software is not there yet for the B6 A4s. The other reason being everyone's focusing on the B7 and such..

[gpultro]

Or you could put in a set of $350 IE drop in rods and not have to worry about the motor one bit

And FYI to all of you, the 2.0FSI GTI GT3071R REVO Beta car just did 509whp this past Friday and ran 11.40's @ 124 with ONLY IE DROP IN RODS!

I just talked with APR that is not there kit that is there software for that kids kit. APR within 2 months will be offering rods for the b7

[Vorsprung]

And FYI to all of you, the 2.0FSI GTI GT3071R REVO Beta car just did 509whp this past Friday and ran 11.40's @ 124 with ONLY IE DROP IN RODS!

Wow all that through the front wheels? Must have crazy torque steer lol

[A4ringedONE8T]

I just talked with APR that is not there kit that is there software for that kids kit. APR within 2 months will be offering rods for the b7

It is an ATP Kit which they endorse and make a tune for, just as with the Elim turbo's on the B5 and B6. And APR wouldnt tell you anything but negativity for anything other than APR. The APR tuned modified APR 3+ with a T3 3076R just made 504whp on Friday and ran 11.60's at Fixxfest.

REVO 3071R is faster and more power than the modified APR 3+ right now

That is a fact, there are slips and dyno sheets for both. I am a shop owner and we are also a REVO dealer and have 2 of 4 FSI 3071R REVO beta cars which we have built and software is being developed off of. I am well aware of whats going on with the REVO car as well as the APR car that Chris Green and USP are building at the same time

[A4ringedONE8T]

Wow all that through the front wheels? Must have crazy torque steer lol

Manages to run an 11.4 down the 1/4 mile so it must not be too bad

[gpultro]

It is an ATP Kit which they endorse and make a tune for, just as with the Elim turbo's on the B5 and B6. And APR wouldnt tell you anything but negativity for anything other than APR. The APR tuned modified APR 3+ with a T3 3076R just made 504whp on Friday and ran 11.60's at Fixxfest.

REVO 3071R is faster and more power than the modified APR 3+ right now

That is a fact, there are slips and dyno sheets for both. I am a shop owner and we are also a REVO dealer and have 2 of 4 FSI 3071R REVO beta cars which we have built and software is being developed off of. I am well aware of whats going on with the REVO car as well as the APR car that Chris Green and USP are building at the same time

I was not aware of anyone else having the b7 with a gt3071r in the country? and you know of 4 more? who did the work and who are they?

[A4ringedONE8T]

I was not aware of anyone else having the b7 with a gt3071r in the country? and you know of 4 more? who did the work and who are they?

These are 2.0FSI's in Vdubs, it has not be transferred over to the Longi motor, that doesnt mean it can't be done though. We are trying to find someone now with a B7 who wants to do a setup similiar and yes we can get the same REVO tuning done which powered the 3071R'd GTI this past Friday to 509whp!

[slimmj0k3r]

These are 2.0FSI's in Vdubs, it has not be transferred over to the Longi motor, that doesnt mean it can't be done though. We are trying to find someone now with a B7 who wants to do a setup similiar and yes we can get the same REVO tuning done which powered the 3071R'd GTI this past Friday to 509whp!

i want to see how long that will last with only drop in rods

[A4ringedONE8T]

i want to see how long that will last with only drop in rods

We have one with 14k miles and one with 4k ... and if a built motor is going to break its going to shortly after rebuild. Especially since these cars are running the same settings day after day after day. IE drop in rods have been proven to well over 500whp on 1.8T's and have never had a single failure resulting from a bad or faulty rod. The 2.0FSI also has a forged crank and forged pistons from the factory. Once you put rods in the 2.0, the bottom end is no longer a worry, even 500-600whp +. The only thing thats going to play a role in a mishap would be balance in the bottom end at high rev's once the head is built (hi revs meaning 8500+).

Perhaps you havent seen a set of IE rods? Or read about them? Destroying a bottom end once these rods are installed should be the least of your worries, making the power to even get close to there max power level is something that is very, very, very, VERY far away. You should worry more about getting the turbo setup!

Heres a few pics of the IE rods in my car if you havent seen a set



Compared to stock 1.8T/2.0T rods





And they are beyond good enough for my setup w/ a GT3076R

[gpultro]

We have one with 14k miles and one with 4k ... and if a built motor is going to break its going to shortly after rebuild. Especially since these cars are running the same settings day after day after day. IE drop in rods have been proven to well over 500whp on 1.8T's and have never had a single failure resulting from a bad or faulty rod. The 2.0FSI also has a forged crank and forged pistons from the factory. Once you put rods in the 2.0, the bottom end is no longer a worry, even 500-600whp +. The only thing thats going to play a role in a mishap would be balance in the bottom end at high rev's once the head is built (hi revs meaning 8500+).

Perhaps you havent seen a set of IE rods? Or read about them? Destroying a bottom end once these rods are installed should be the least of your worries, making the power to even get close to there max power level is something that is very, very, very, VERY far away. You should worry more about getting the turbo setup!

Heres a few pics of the IE rods in my car if you havent seen a set



Compared to stock 1.8T/2.0T rods





And they are beyond good enough for my setup w/ a GT3076R

I see what your talking about now, that is the stage i am at right now reached the limits of the stock block from what APR spoke of and need rods so hopefully APR is going to come out with the rods soon cause i cant wait to unleash this turbo

[gpultro]

These are 2.0FSI's in Vdubs, it has not be transferred over to the Longi motor, that doesnt mean it can't be done though. We are trying to find someone now with a B7 who wants to do a setup similiar and yes we can get the same REVO tuning done which powered the 3071R'd GTI this past Friday to 509whp!

You got me scared...lol I am the first one to get the gt3071 in the b7 ASP did the install and the tune. I love every bit of it but i still think its slow unfortunetly this engine is not strong enough to support a lot of boost from that turbo which is why i am in need of rods and if you say the IE are proven then im sure that is the most feasible solution, but i am not sure what APR is going to charge for there rods and I know that ASP is going to come out with theres as well just dont know when.

[slimmj0k3r]

We have one with 14k miles and one with 4k ... and if a built motor is going to break its going to shortly after rebuild. Especially since these cars are running the same settings day after day after day. IE drop in rods have been proven to well over 500whp on 1.8T's and have never had a single failure resulting from a bad or faulty rod. The 2.0FSI also has a forged crank and forged pistons from the factory. Once you put rods in the 2.0, the bottom end is no longer a worry, even 500-600whp +. The only thing thats going to play a role in a mishap would be balance in the bottom end at high rev's once the head is built (hi revs meaning 8500+).

Perhaps you havent seen a set of IE rods? Or read about them? Destroying a bottom end once these rods are installed should be the least of your worries, making the power to even get close to there max power level is something that is very, very, very, VERY far away. You should worry more about getting the turbo setup!

Heres a few pics of the IE rods in my car if you havent seen a set

Compared to stock 1.8T/2.0T rods

And they are beyond good enough for my setup w/ a GT3076R

I've never read about the IE rods. I've got a set of scat rods sitting in my house as we speak. I don't know call me old fashion But I'm playing it safe with this one, I know building the head is a necessity but I feel building the block is too. I didn't know that we had forged pistons from the factory, any more info on that, but I'm picking up a set of JE pistons reguardless. The turbo is the at the end of my list. my main focus is to get the block built up, and other supporting mods installed, For some reason I can't trust just drop in rods. Even though if I just did drop In rods i'd be able to get my BT setup up and runing a lot quicker, I'd feel a lot better with a fully built bottom end. that and I want NOTHING to go wrong even when I'm boosting the shit out of my turbo and really pushing my car to its limits.

excellent information though

[gpultro]

I've never read about the IE rods. I've got a set of scat rods sitting in my house as we speak. I don't know call me old fashion But I'm playing it safe with this one, I know building the head is a necessity but I feel building the block is too. I didn't know that we had forged pistons from the factory, any more info on that, but I'm picking up a set of JE pistons reguardless. The turbo is the at the end of my list. my main focus is to get the block built up, and other supporting mods installed, For some reason I can't trust just drop in rods. Even though if I just did drop In rods i'd be able to get my BT setup up and runing a lot quicker, I'd feel a lot better with a fully built bottom end. that and I want NOTHING to go wrong even when I'm boosting the shit out of my turbo and really pushing my car to its limits.

excellent information though

What i was told from APR was that the rods are the week part of the engine and if you upgrade just them you will be fine. They did not mention anything about the heads being worked?

[A4ringedONE8T]

The only thing thats going to limit you in the head is the springs, retainers, and valves being only able to support a certain RPM before you get valve float and smack or drop a valve. The only thing that upgrading pistons does is allow a more durable motor for detonation but detonation can and will destroy a motor no matter what pistons are in it. Like I said the stock pistons are forged and have a 20mm pin, the same as what aftermarket pistons are. All your doing is putting an aftermarket brand in there, and honestly OEM is better than aftermarket any and every day of the week! This is the reason 1.8T guys typically swap in AEB or AMU OEM forged pistons along with a set of 144x20 rods and arent afraid to max out anything that bolts to the head!

[slimmj0k3r]

you know a lot more about this than I do. couple questions for you

what is the main cause of some of these blown motors in the 1.8T crowd? Many guys bore out to 2.0L correct?

Some of the 2.0T fsi guys over on vortex(well one I know of lol) build up their motors bottom ends and all, why would they go through all the trouble if they can drop in rods and go?

I'm not trying to make this into an argument by any means I'm just trying to obtain as much information as possible so I get my build done correctly the first time since I'm doing it by myself. Wouldn't it make sense to build the block just for the sakes of reliability?

[A4ringedONE8T]

The reasons for the few blown 1.8T's are various. If on stock bottom end, the first thing to blow is the rods, and they usually scrap the whole motor and put a window in the block. They blow just from being overpowered, nothing more. Blown built motors are usually due to either a shop not machining or assembling a block correctly or faulty parts. I spun a rod bearing a few months ago and trashed the crank and rod on cyl #3, that was due to a faulty bearing and loss of pressure to the oil pump. This was almost 8 months and 10k miles after I had built it originally. A few of the other big 1.8T failures were due to boring a block without a proper torque plate, some cam issues which caused a motor to go way out of time, and various other install/part issues. As I said the closer to OEM you can keep the motor, of course if it fits the bill for your power level, the better off you are. No one on Earth can build a motor to the spec that OEM motors are built from the factory!

Why would someone go all out .. because they want to. We tend to do alot of things that arent needed with these cars

Drop in rods are a affordable and quick solution, this strengthens only the bottom though (duh ). If one wants to rev higher then obviously attention to the head is needed. Reagrding the bottom end on any 1.8T that came with 20mm wrist pin forged pistons (AEB and AMU) or the 2.0T FSI which also has both, the most important part after replacing the rods is balancing of the crank, rods, pistons, clutch and flywheel. If all of those are in balance, the result will be the least amount of wear on bearings and rings and ultimately the strongest motor! Honestly from the bottom of my heart (and I own my own shop dont forget, I can make money off selling pistons as well), they are not needed for the power levels a 30 series turbo is going to provide and especially on software tuned cars where all safety measures are still intact (knock sensors, timing retard, ECU fuel enrich, ...)

[dougyfresh]

I see what your talking about now, that is the stage i am at right now reached the limits of the stock block from what APR spoke of and need rods so hopefully APR is going to come out with the rods soon cause i cant wait to unleash this turbo

You do not need APR connecting rods. You can use any aftermarket forged rod that fits your engine. You'll most likely pay more than it is worth for those APR connecting rods.

Option 1) which Shawn mentioned are IE connecting rods with your factory pistons

Option 2) Scat, Pauter, etc... connecting rods with aftermarket forged pistons


The 1.8 crowd that has gone to 2.0 is forced to use aftermarket forged pistons because the OEM is only 81.0mm bore. Not large enough to increase displacement to a 2.0L on an increase in stroke only. Plus the pistons need clearancing for the increase in stroke.

[AudiA4_20T]

man you b7 guys have stuff to learn

1. APR Rods are no better than Scat rods or IE rods... Theyll just cost you like $500 more and have no support

2. Scat Rods are drop in rods, as well as IE

3. I think what Stefan means about build head is cams and fuel pump because those are the weak points on the head

[eastwick897]

man you b7 guys have stuff to learn

1. APR Rods are no better than Scat rods or IE rods... Theyll just cost you like $500 more and have no support

2. Scat Rods are drop in rods, as well as IE

3. I think what Stefan means about build head is cams and fuel pump because those are the weak points on the head

I'm not very familiar with motor building but was wondering if you could throw up a couple links to wear we would be able to get these drop in rods?

[slimmj0k3r]

3. I think what Stefan means about build head is cams and fuel pump because those are the weak points on the head

yeah, but still no ETA on the cams

[gpultro]

So what would the cost be for droppin rods in our block and putting it back together with the balanceing? a4ringedone8t?