2.0 GT35R Build

[safab]

Well my daily driver a4 (97 1.8tqm) finally is starting to give out w/ 255+K miles on the clock. It's had a blown turbo (k03) for the last 30K miles. Now it is blowing smoke and compression in cylinders 2 and 3 is way low.

Anyways, I had a motor for sale in the classifieds that was almost sold but I've decided I want to keep the a4 for the long run and be putting it in the a4 and rebuilding her better than ever.

Here's the parts I have on hand from another project that I didn't complete:
-AEB block bored to 83mm
-Supertech pistons 83mm (9:1 compression to work w/ the 2L)
-Scat Rods
-ARP Main stud kit
-Calico coated main/rod/im shaft bearings
-ABA Crankshaft
-Rotating assembly balanced along with stock flywheel
-Stock head bolts

-SPA T3 manifold
-GT 3582R w/ .63 A/R housing (coated)
-Tial 38mm WG

-Modified AEB intake manifold (increased volume in plenum
-Bone stock AEB Head in running condition

-034 Stage Ic
-An ATP 255lph in tank fuel pump and also a 044 in tank pump
-550cc (high imp) injectors as well as 83lb (low imp) injectors

-Audi S4 6spd transmission/rear diff/aluminum front spindles and brakes
-Stock flywheel
-Southbend OFE Stage IV SS Clutch

-GARRETT FMIC

Goal:
Not sure what this will do....I thinking around ~365-390whp on pump (91 craptane) for my daily driver tune. And to have this build completed within the month and in the car.

Ok...that is what I have and here are the question I have for the experienced people on this forum:

1) Fueling:
I take it that the 044 is the way to go and that the 255lph pump won't hack it. I'm not really planning on running race gas in this car...just need the fuel pump to support pump gas tune. Same question goes for the injectors.

2) IM Shaft
Does anyone have a measurement for what thickness the Gear needs to be grinded down to work with the SCATs?

3) Clearancing the block
I still need to clearance the block to on the sidewalls...is this something I can easily do with a dremmel/drill and a carbide (or similar grinding) bit or should I have the engine/machine shop do this?

4) Head
I was planning on running the head stock for now...will it be safe to rev to 7800 RPMs? From what i've read it should be ok with upgraded springs to do this but do I also need to replace the lifters when I replace the springs. I've got a mechanic I know telling me it HAS to be done.

5) What boost can/should I plan to run w/ 91 octane to achive my hp goals relatively safely w/ my CR?

Thanks in advance for any feedback and i'll post some pics up as there is progress.

[1fstavant]

bare minimum exhaust valves...or your motor will look like mine after a misshift or two

[safab]

Which valves are considered upgrades over stock...any links?

[bassed]

bare minimum exhaust valves...or your motor will look like mine after a misshift or two

It's not the valves it's the retainers and springs for those who want to rev out. Your mis-shift was the culprit and you rev'd out well over 9k most likely during it.

I've had no issues running up to 7800 on a AEB that is practically new still, with only the 17k I put on it so far.

[mike-2ptzero]

Which valves are considered upgrades over stock...any links?

Supertech, 034 sells them. I run them in my car that is pushed to 8500 every time I go thru the gears at the track.

I also know someone with a fully built 8500 rpm AEB head(no cams) they dont need anymore, interested let me know.

[b5a4lover]

this should have been my build

g/l with the project man

[AudiA4_20T]

youll make over 400 on 91, good luck man

[t1demont1]

without a doubt lol

[luvin_the_rings]

is there a program already available for your turbo and displacement mods?

if not what type of EMS r u gonna be using?

[AudiA4_20T]

that greddy IC is going to suck

[safab]

Well...400 would be great but I was trying to set a safe goal that I knew I would achieve :) I havn't been keeping in touch with 1.8t stuff for some time now.

I think I will get the springs/retainers for now and do more head work down the road including cams. But for now I just need to get the car rolling again.

BTW, typo on the IC...it is a 18" wide x 3" thick x 10.5" tall GARRETT core, not a Greddy.

And i'm using 034 EFI stage Ic...also have a IIc that I was saving for another project (v6)...for the time being i'll try the Ic and see, I think I will be fine.

So...any info on the diameter to get the IM shaft gear that it needs to be machined down to? I guess I may have to just install it w/ the rods and measure myself...I was hoping someone who's done could tell me...

b5a4lover: I know I was all set to sell this thing but w/ the motor going down...I just have to upgrade it now.

[safab]

Supertech, 034 sells them. I run them in my car that is pushed to 8500 every time I go thru the gears at the track.

I also know someone with a fully built 8500 rpm AEB head(no cams) they dont need anymore, interested let me know.

Possibly if the price is right...please PM me some details and asking price.

[b5a4lover]

its all good. i was gona use my rent money to help pay for the project anyways so i guess this was a sign lol. im gona do a 3071r 1.8 build for now.

[safab]

Well I've still got a 3071r wg (.86a/r t25 90trim) that I bought used but never actually used myself sitting in the garage. WG welded shut...PM if you interested in that...I want that rent money :)

[1fstavant]

well it was probably the misshift however the head was also older and had many miles...but if your doing a 35r misewell go for valves

[mike-2ptzero]

youll make over 400 on 91, good luck man

I am going to guess you have never put CA 91 in your car.

[a220vt]

Stock exhaust valves are known to separate at higher rpms and power levels than stock. A set of upgraded exhaust valves are cheap insurance.

[safab]

Well I decided to stick with a stock head for now and keep revs low in the 7200-7400 range as well as keeping boost under 20psi...this way all I need to have done is get the IM shaft shaved down and I can put the motor together faster.

I've got a spare head I can build up a few months down the road.

[pac1085]

diameter to get the IM shaft gear that it needs to be machined down to? I guess I may have to just install it w/ the rods and measure myself...I was hoping someone who's done could tell me...

5.5mm is what I went with. it worked perfect with the ABA crank and scat rods for my 2.0. i have about 2000 miles on the motor no issues.

[pac1085]

3) Clearancing the block
I still need to clearance the block to on the sidewalls...is this something I can easily do with a dremmel/drill and a carbide (or similar grinding) bit or should I have the engine/machine shop do this?

I did it with a die grinder, it's tedious but not hard. just make sure you get all of the metal filings out of there...i pressure washed the block after I ground it. also be careful not to grind too much around the humps where the bolt holes go thru on the other side, or you can have little holes in the block where those bolts go into. sorry, don't have any pics of that step.

[Wizard-of-OD]

A good idea would be to wash the block with some form of foamy cleaner (gunk or similar) and pass a magnet through the fluid being washed off.That should really get rid of all the shavings.

[safab]

Thanks fellas that exactly the info I needed (espcially the IM shaft measurement). Hopefully I can have the shaft grinded down by next weekend and get everything assembled and ready to install.

[onemoremile]

You could also give 034 a call to see if they have any machined IM shafts in stock. Maybe swap yours as a core and know what you buy will work.

[safab]

oneomoremile: thanks...i'm waiting on an email from javad to see if they have one already ground.

I checked w/ the engine shop I used and their lathe is not sut up w/ a grinder to remove materials from a hardened part like this. They referred me to 2 places and neither of them want to do it either. Anyone have leads on where to get this done in the bay area?

I'm hoping 034 has one or can get it done for me soon...this is the last thing i need before pulling and reinstalling everything.

[pac1085]

oneomoremile: thanks...i'm waiting on an email from javad to see if they have one already ground.

I checked w/ the engine shop I used and their lathe is not sut up w/ a grinder to remove materials from a hardened part like this. They referred me to 2 places and neither of them want to do it either. Anyone have leads on where to get this done in the bay area?

I'm hoping 034 has one or can get it done for me soon...this is the last thing i need before pulling and reinstalling everything.

Jarod @ SCCH-heads did mine for about 90 bucks I think it was. 1 day turn around time. however he did forget to cut the gear the first time (just lightened/balanced it) so i had to send it back.. but u should be ok.

http://scch-heads.com/viewpart.php?id=23

[email protected]

[safab]

pac1085: Thanks! Shot of an email to them.

[Kyle H]

Very cool build looks like it's going to make some insane power.

[safab]

Thanks...like I said earlier...if I make ~375ish on pump i'll be happy. Anything more i'll be even happier! But I won't push it too much since this is my daily beater...I know that sounds dumb, but hey...

Im shaft should be @ SCCH on Monday and back by Thursday I hope. If so, I'll have everything put together by next Saturday morning and in the car by Sunday night. In the meantime I guess I should get the wiring harness done and see if I can get the stock motor to start with it. It'll be one thing out of the way.

[safab]

Finally got some time to work on grinding the block (about 25 mins):



There are the bits i'm using:



Are there any other bits available that will work better? I'd love to see if there's anything else cuz this is a pita.

[onemoremile]

http://sculpt.com/catalog_98/burrs/solid/index.htm

Flame, round tree, or cylindrical carbide burr.

[safab]

Well I got some tungsten carbite bits and it was a lot easier to get the clearancing done.

However, there's a new issue. Checked the flywheel and noticed that somehow one tooth is missing. So I guess I need to find a another flywheel. But, I was thinking that I could maybe tig weld a tooth on there? You guys think that would work ok?

[317ssayzarc]

It's so easy to get a trigger wheel off a junk crank, call up Bob Q and see if he's got any...

[safab]

Well...since my flywheel is damaged decided to get a steel 15lb steel flywheel and it should be in before next weekend. And, got the intermediate shaft in yesterday from SCCH and it looks nice. I should be able to see if the rotating assembly clears it (and the block) tomorrow.

I know I wanted to put the new setup in THIS weekend but I guess everything gets delayed... like usual. Guess it's not a bad thing...better to take an extra week or two and do things right.

Anyways, the stage Ic harness is done and in the car and i'll see if I can get it to cranks up tomorrow with the stock motor. I figure I can play around with it w/ the stock motor for another week or so and HOPEFULLY next weekend I can put the new motor/setup in...unless I decide to upgrade the head

Maybe I should just get the springs and retainers and call it a day...instead of having it looming.

[317ssayzarc]

Well...since my flywheel is damaged decided to get a steel 15lb steel flywheel and it should be in before next weekend. And, got the intermediate shaft in yesterday from SCCH and it looks nice. I should be able to see if the rotating assembly clears it (and the block) tomorrow.

I know I wanted to put the new setup in THIS weekend but I guess everything gets delayed... like usual. Guess it's not a bad thing...better to take an extra week or two and do things right.

Anyways, the stage Ic harness is done and in the car and i'll see if I can get it to cranks up tomorrow with the stock motor. I figure I can play around with it w/ the stock motor for another week or so and HOPEFULLY next weekend I can put the new motor/setup in...unless I decide to upgrade the head

Maybe I should just get the springs and retainers and call it a day...instead of having it looming.

If you plan on repeatedly making 350whp+, replace your exhaust valves with inconel ones, otherwise your are driving a ticking time bomb...

[safab]

I think I should be in that range. I think i'm leaning towards getting the upgraded springs/retainer/and exhaust valves....I guess I should just do that and call it a day. I'll think it over...initial plan was to just run the stock head and keep things safe for a little while and either throw in my 2.7T motor (the one in my avatar) in later or upgrade the head to solid lifters/cams but it may just be better to go this route and get this thing done right the first time and leave it be...and save the other stuff for another car/project.

[317ssayzarc]

I think I should be in that range. I think i'm leaning towards getting the upgraded springs/retainer/and exhaust valves....I guess I should just do that and call it a day. I'll think it over...initial plan was to just run the stock head and keep things safe for a little while and either throw in my 2.7T motor (the one in my avatar) in later or upgrade the head to solid lifters/cams but it may just be better to go this route and get this thing done right the first time and leave it be...and save the other stuff for another car/project.

All you REALLY need is the following...

Upgrade exhaust valves, replace the exhaust valve guides, upgraded springs... No need to replace the retainers, I didn't even do that on my head lol

[safab]

Well finally got the car to run on the Ic with the stock motor...so that part is all sorted out and car runs good so far on this (umm...as well as it can w/ the low compression reading in one of the cyls).

So all the parts are here...at least I think I got everything. For the head I chose to just upgrade the springs as the valves are in good condition and the head i'm going to be using has <40K miles (unchipped).

The plan is to build/assemble the motor tomorrow (Saturday) and bolt it up to the fly/clutch/transmission. If all goes well the motor will in the car w/ the 6spd and s4 rear diff on Sunday. During the upcoming week the ic piping and mounting/DP/exhaust will fabricated and if everything goes well it may get tuned at the end of the week. But with my luck there probobly will be holdups ;) these things always take way longer than planned for some reason.

[lucas13dourado]

wow, i just learned a lot in this thread. some info i was looking for too!
thanks and keep the goodwork up man

[ghost6303]

All you REALLY need is the following...
....replace the exhaust valve guides...

replace them just with new guides? or upgraded guides of some kind? where would you find those, ive never seen anything other then OEM guides

[safab]

Does anyone know what wire to connect the Ic RPM signal output to make the stock tach work? I don't have a bentley manual so i'd have to make a trip to the library...hopefully someone knows or has done this?