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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings alxjhn's Avatar
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    DIY motor mounts B5 S4

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    Does anyone have info in DIY motor mounts on the B5 S4 (left and right)?
    Any way to replace the snub mount without removing the bumper??
    I'm missing the snub mount

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings S4 in_lowplaces's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    for snub mount front end needs to come off.

    unbolt your tranny mounts and motor mounts and slowy jack the motor up so you can work the mount out.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings Jayco88's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by S4 in_lowplaces View Post
    for snub mount front end needs to come off.

    unbolt your tranny mounts and motor mounts and slowy jack the motor up so you can work the mount out.
    x2 bumper needs to come off
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  4. #4

    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    just get a engine brace for $40 from harbor frieght (comes in handy)

    brace the engine, then undo the front alumium subframe mount, and just drop both and you have more room to work with, no need to touch tranny mount or any thing else

    for snub, after you redo the motor mounts, just pull bumper by 2 long bolt, then use the 2 long bumper bolt to put carrier into service mode, same thread pitch, pull off the mount.

    i recommend the 034 mounts for both snub w/ bracket, and the motor mounts. very good quality

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings alxjhn's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    thanks guys. it's a pain to get to the top bolt of the mounts.
    how long would the mounts take to do?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings S4 in_lowplaces's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    depends on how handy you are witha wrench. BUt you could hammer it out in a day.
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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings alxjhn's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    can't you slide in the snub mount when u r doin the mounts

  8. #8

    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    if you put the carrier in service mode like i mentioned above.

    you should be able to get it done in ~1 hr or so

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings mhorsfield89's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    im trying to replace the front mount...i have the front bumper off and radiator support loose...its really hard to slip the stock rubber mount off its position...any suggestions?

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    I just did this last week too.

    It depends on what side you are doing...but I took off almost everything....I took off the bumper, rad support, and then dropped the sub frame.

    That was the only way to get to the top screw for me...it took me a few hours to do...real long job just for one screw!

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings s2the4's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by alxjhn View Post
    thanks guys. it's a pain to get to the top bolt of the mounts.
    how long would the mounts take to do?
    I Just did it myself it took 3 hours a side. But I did pull the lock carrier forward and unbolted the AC condenser as well as take tension off the serpentine belt. All for the drivers side. When you take the air box out on the passenger side the top bolt is pretty easy to get to with some movement of the charge pipe going to the turbo. The drivers side is a lot more crammed you will need little girl hands to do this side. Apparently some people unbolt the bracket that the motor mount is connected to with out having to move any pipes.
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings SurferD's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    I just did the transmission and engine mounts. Tranny was too easy for an explanation. I'm assuming you already took the tubes for the y-pipe off. No need to take the y-pipe off though. For the fronts, just jack under the engine and remove the 3-bolt (18mm) aluminum frames under the mounts. You don't have to take the bumper and support off for the passenger side but for the driver side you do. Move the AC for clearance. To get to the top nuts, remove the 13mm bolt holding the horizontal turbo tubes and wiggle the tube out of the hole near the turbo. You can just leave it and work around it. This will get you access to the top nuts. It's a bit tricky getting the tube back because you can't see it. Just push it in. The drivers side is a major PITA because there isn't any room to work and the bolt is angled down. I taped 2 wrenches together to make the 13mm longer. The support for the driver side inlet tube has 2 bolts, one in the rear. Take them out and the support can be removed to get it out of the way. Once all that's cleared out you can barely get a ratchet in and loosen the mount nut. It takes a lot of wiggling and trial/error for access but be patient and you will get it. I can't believe huge amount of stuff that has to come off to get to one stinkin nut!
    Last edited by SurferD; 11-14-2009 at 06:04 PM.
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings FlaS4's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4


  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings _muppet_'s Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    I did all my mounts today, with 034 track density mounts, and it was no fun. The passenger side isn't bad, I did it without removing the front bumper, just pop the inlet pipe off the turbo, spin it a bit and you have ok access. The drivers side sucks, I totally removed the inlet pipe from the bay, out the front. It was a squeeze, and that was after I dropped the ac compressor. Why the power steering hard line has to be angled the way it is, is a mystery to me. If you take it out the front, you'll see what I mean. It gets wedged between the line and the frame rail. When doing the snub, if you are using the 034 cage, I recommend taking the snub piece totally off the motor (3 8mm allen bolts). When you are pressing the new poly mount on, leave the bottom passenger side bolt in the bracket, as the mount will be in the way once pressed on. Then make sure it fits in the cage before bolting it back to the motor, I had to shave mine down a bit. I did it with the bench grinder, which might not be the recommended way to do it, but it worked really well, and keeps it nice and round, mine fits good and snug. The tranny mounts are a snap. Jack up the car, remove the two 13mm bolts from the bottom, and one 16mm bolt from the top, put jackstands under the mount brackets on the tranny, let the car down slow until the weight is off the mounts. Take the old ones out, put the new ones in, putting the new 17mm through bolts in first (where the old 16mm bolts were), then loosely install the old 13mm bolts. Jack the car back up, tighten everything down, and your done.

    My first impressions of the new mounts, the shifting is better, the throttle response feels much better. The vibrations are a very real thing, :) I think I need to adjust my snub a bit because it seems to be coming right from the front. I might be crazy, but the car seems like it actually sounds a bit better with the new mounts, sounds a little more throaty.
    Last edited by _muppet_; 11-11-2009 at 04:13 AM.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings stef2.7t's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by _muppet_ View Post
    My first impressions of the new mounts, the shifting is better, the throttle response feels much better. The vibrations are a very real thing, :) I think I need to adjust my snub a bit because it seems to be coming right from the front. I might be crazy, but the car seems like it actually sounds a bit better with the new mounts, sounds a little more throaty.
    My vibrations were horrendous on first fire up and run. But now 2 weeks later it seems like everything settled in and got worked in properly. Quite happy with it all. (034 Snubber, Motor and Tranny) And yes you can hear a lot more of the engine now through the body vibrations. Wonder how it would sound with an exhaust.
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mooseimage's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by _muppet_ View Post
    My first impressions of the new mounts, the shifting is better, the throttle response feels much better. The vibrations are a very real thing, :) I think I need to adjust my snub a bit because it seems to be coming right from the front. I might be crazy, but the car seems like it actually sounds a bit better with the new mounts, sounds a little more throaty.
    I agree with all this, and especially the last part. Track density everything and a DTS makes my car sound goooooood even w/o the exhaust. Sounds bad ass from inside the cabin.
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Raacerx's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by Mooseimage View Post
    I agree with all this, and especially the last part. Track density everything and a DTS makes my car sound goooooood even w/o the exhaust. Sounds bad ass from inside the cabin.
    too bad it sounds like shit outside...

    you could get that resonator cut out and a Magnaflow muffler welded in for under $200 Moose! it would sound soooo much better.

    Far as the motor mounts, if you have the front clip off, you can unbolt the A/C compressor easily and then lift/slide it out. This gives you a ton of room to access the motor mount on the driverside. good thing to replace when you are doing the timing belt, cause the passenger is even easier when you can pull out the t-stat hose.
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings SurferD's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    OK so I drove the car about 700 miles since my last post. I can say that it's LOUD inside now. Almost sounds like a throaty burbly V8 which is kinda cool. Also it definitely vibrates a lot more along with the noise. I am wondering if it's supposed to be like this. Maybe I should have gone with stock replacements. Hopefully it will settle down with some wear. Will adjusting the snub help?
    Last edited by SurferD; 11-21-2009 at 03:44 PM.
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  19. #19
    Senior Member Two Rings _muppet_'s Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    My vibrations have gotten a lot better now that I have driven the car a while. I think the added noise is probably here to stay, but I don't mind it so much. How fast they settle in probably depends on your driving habits and what the roads are like in your area.

  20. #20
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by SurferD View Post
    OK so I drove the car about 700 miles since my last post. I can say that it's LOUD inside now. Almost sounds like a throaty burbly V8 which is kinda cool. Also it definitely vibrates a lot more along with the noise. I am wondering if it's supposed to be like this. Maybe I should have gone with stock replacements. Hopefully it will settle down with some wear. Will adjusting the snub help?
    They will go away with time and will definitely hold the motor and tranny down well. Just give it about 1-2k miles and then it will run smoother at idle.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings CONTROL ONE's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by FlaS4 View Post
    That DIY seems like it's 3x the work as this one: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3231725

    Any reason?

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings SurferD's Avatar
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    Re: DIY motor mounts B5 S4

    Quote Originally Posted by CONTROL ONE View Post
    That DIY seems like it's 3x the work as this one: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3231725

    Any reason?
    I think the one at vortex is easier because he doesn't drop the AC stuff. Was he even writing about a B5 S4? I found it impossible to do it without removing the compressor and both turbo inlet tubes. It's funny when you read the DIY, makes it sound like gumdrops and lollipops and all is great with the world. 30-40 mins per side my ass! Is he on crack or something? What the hell would asian girls want to do with a guy laying in a parking lot fixing his car? Unless maybe they want him to fix their cars too while they shop at Urban Outfitters. This job rates an 8 in the PITA scale due to the huge amount of part removal you have to do for just 4 nuts.
    Last edited by SurferD; 01-09-2010 at 03:03 PM.
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  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings wunderman4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CONTROL ONE View Post
    That DIY seems like it's 3x the work as this one: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3231725

    Any reason?
    thats because its a b5 1.8t not the 2.7 so yea.....

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings blmlozz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CONTROL ONE View Post
    That DIY seems like it's 3x the work as this one: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3231725

    Any reason?
    I'm taking your S4 away from you C1.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    I kinda wish I'd read this before ordering my motor mounts, I'd read the diy on vortex and thought that it sounded fairly simple, not realising it was for a 1.8t! Now I'm not looking forward to it so much! Think its gonna be a long cold days work, better be worth it!

    Also I've gone for all track density , cos all the reviews so far seemed to say hardly any added vibrations at all, now it seems that maybe this isnt so true either! Hope it's no that bad.....
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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings blmlozz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stapo69 View Post
    I kinda wish I'd read this before ordering my motor mounts, I'd read the diy on vortex and thought that it sounded fairly simple, not realising it was for a 1.8t! Now I'm not looking forward to it so much! Think its gonna be a long cold days work, better be worth it!

    Also I've gone for all track density , cos all the reviews so far seemed to say hardly any added vibrations at all, now it seems that maybe this isnt so true either! Hope it's no that bad.....
    vibrations are relative, so you can't go by what other people say.

  27. #27
    Registered User Four Rings Scotty@Advanced's Avatar
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    When I did mounts, I didn't have to put the carrier into the service position but it probably would have been easier for the front snub mount.

    With the motor mounts I had to make a ball end 8mm 3/8 drive allen wrench and remove the lower air tubes and take the cast mounting arms off the block to access the top nut of the engine mount. Both engine mounts took about 3 hours including a 30 minute bath in my parts washer machine. The front snub mount was about another hour.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Doesn't 034 have the instructions and they say get to them by the bottom? I don't recall them removing any other pipes/hoses.
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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Can anyone confirm what size nut on the lower stud Stern mounts use? The most info I could find was it's an M8 but wanted to confirm.
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